How to change spark plugs
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
How to change spark plugs
I'd like to change my spark plugs.
How hard is it to get the plugs out of a 1997 V6 with air?
I've searched but didn't find any info on how to change spark plugs. I did see a recommendation to use anti seize which I definately will. I've never changed my own but I've assisted (which means standing by watching) my ex and so I am aware of a few things like checking the gap and removing then replacing one at a time. I have access to a spark plug socket, rachet and extensions.
I would really appreciate someone someone giving me a step by step. Thanks! Janis
How hard is it to get the plugs out of a 1997 V6 with air?
I've searched but didn't find any info on how to change spark plugs. I did see a recommendation to use anti seize which I definately will. I've never changed my own but I've assisted (which means standing by watching) my ex and so I am aware of a few things like checking the gap and removing then replacing one at a time. I have access to a spark plug socket, rachet and extensions.
I would really appreciate someone someone giving me a step by step. Thanks! Janis
#2
The right socket, ratchet, and an extension or two is all you need. Well, you might also want to get a telescoping magnet, as the plugs are sometimes hard to fish out of the valve covers.
I never use anti-seize, and I have never had a problem. However, I do use dielectic grease in the boots (where they attach to the top of the spark plug. You can get that at any auto store.
Remove the intake tube on the passenger side. The drivers side is the hardest part, if you want to call it that. There are a couple things you will want to take off to gain better access. It really is a cake job. The first time will be the hardest. Allow for an hour just to be safe.
Be sure to use factory plugs. Double check the gap. Some of us have found them off from the factory.
Brian (waskillywabbit) here on the boards has a write-up if I am not mistaken. His website is: www.drawhorn.org
I never use anti-seize, and I have never had a problem. However, I do use dielectic grease in the boots (where they attach to the top of the spark plug. You can get that at any auto store.
Remove the intake tube on the passenger side. The drivers side is the hardest part, if you want to call it that. There are a couple things you will want to take off to gain better access. It really is a cake job. The first time will be the hardest. Allow for an hour just to be safe.
Be sure to use factory plugs. Double check the gap. Some of us have found them off from the factory.
Brian (waskillywabbit) here on the boards has a write-up if I am not mistaken. His website is: www.drawhorn.org
#7
Contributing Member
You don't have to tighten them by hand, just start them off by hand, so the threads don't get crossed. After they're started correctly tighten them with the ratchet. And plugs don't have to be super tight, 15-20 foot pounds if you have a torque wrench. Or screw them in until the gasket bottoms out and then about 1/2 a turn more, if you don't.
One more thing which may seem obvious, do it with the engine cold, easier on the fingers that way. Those exhaust manifolds get hot
One more thing which may seem obvious, do it with the engine cold, easier on the fingers that way. Those exhaust manifolds get hot
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#8
check out this site. it walks you thru changing your plugs
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...ep3.html#plugs
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...ep3.html#plugs
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