Automatic transmission problems, need help!
09-05-2003, 06:07 AM
#21
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Originally posted by TechWrench
Ava; Yes, the fibers, and any other material, ...
Ava; Yes, the fibers, and any other material, ...
We can assume the filter mesh is fine enough so that what gets trough won't be of enough significance.
I think we also can conclude that the plates are not the cause.
Take my word for it, if I go ahead and ask someone overhere to repair it I'll end up with a set of new plates ($500 US) and the cause not taken away. I need to find what's responsible for the stalling first.
Do you know where I can find good schematics about (this)transmission(s) on the net?
Ava.
09-05-2003, 06:46 AM
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Originally posted by Babypig
www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/
jump the TE1 and E1 terminals in the diagnostic box under the hood. It's a little black box on the right fender under the hood. I can post pics tommorow. Do this with the ignition off. Once you have it jumped turn the key to on, you don't have to start it, and you may have to press the accelerator pedal to get them to flash. the o/d light will flash in sequence.
Steve
www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/
jump the TE1 and E1 terminals in the diagnostic box under the hood. It's a little black box on the right fender under the hood. I can post pics tommorow. Do this with the ignition off. Once you have it jumped turn the key to on, you don't have to start it, and you may have to press the accelerator pedal to get them to flash. the o/d light will flash in sequence.
Steve
I just see that I have interpreted the table incorrectly. The checklight just keeps flashing. Not eight pulses and a pause, but contiuously.
The O/D light flashes only when O/D is engaged and it flashes a bit delayed.
Also, what does it mean if the red light for the O2 sensor is on before I start? It goes off when the engine runs. Does it mean the sensor is OK?
Ava.
09-05-2003, 06:48 AM
#23
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Originally posted by Ava
Take my word for it, if I go ahead and ask someone overhere to repair it I'll end up with a set of new plates ($500 US) and the cause not taken away. I need to find what's responsible for the stalling first.
Ava.
Take my word for it, if I go ahead and ask someone overhere to repair it I'll end up with a set of new plates ($500 US) and the cause not taken away. I need to find what's responsible for the stalling first.
Ava.
09-05-2003, 06:59 AM
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Originally posted by MTL_4runner
You sound like you know what is wrong with it already.
You sound like you know what is wrong with it already.
What, a wheely? With a 3VZ-E?
Ava.
09-05-2003, 08:02 AM
#25
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I don't think that the general concensus was that your plates are gone. It was said that you may already have done damage to the plates or they may be severly worn potentially because of the valve problem as was discussed and the lack of maintenance throughout the trucks history.
I think the general direction people targeted was a lack of fluid pressure to engage the plates. I think it was also suggested that either the pump was being starved of fluid from contamination on the filter (which I assume you cleaned already), a clogged passage restricting fluid flow, or a stuck valve. It would seem wise to remove as much of the old fluid as possible in an attempt to free any sticking parts.
This little wealth of info from Toyota 4X4 might help:
Here are some specifics about the tranny itself.
The A340E/A340F/A340H 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
This is Toyotas ECT (Electronically Controlled Transmission) automatic. It is used in both 22RE (4wd) models and in the 3VZ-E and 22R-TE (both 2wd and 4wd)
1st 2.804, 2nd 1.531, 3rd 1.000, 4th 0.705 Reverse: 2.393.
The 4WD version (A340H) has a transfer case with low-range gearing of 2.659:1
Models designated A340F have (I think) the VF2A transfer case with a 2.566:1 low range
Someone who asked to be anonymous sent the following info:
The codes breakdown is as follows
A 340 H
A = automatic transmission
3 = 3 series
4 = 4 speed
0 = gear ratio / minor change
H = hydraulic transfer case (includes ECT)
F = mechanical transfer case (includes ECT)
E = Electronic Controlled Transmission (used on 2WD 4Runners, other 2WD Toyota vehicles)
This transmission uses 2 solenoids to control the shifting.
solenoid 1 solenoid 2
1 th = ON OFF
2 nd = ON ON
3 rd = OFF ON
4 th = OFF OFF
The throttle cable is used for line pressure, it can be disconnected and
the transmission will still shift normally.
But if youloose power to your 2 shift solenoid, you will be taking off in
OverDrive.
What you should do is :
Select LOW 1 . (1 st gear) then 2nd ( 3rd gear) then D (over drive)
A bit of an information overload but I hope it helps ya out. 
I think the general direction people targeted was a lack of fluid pressure to engage the plates. I think it was also suggested that either the pump was being starved of fluid from contamination on the filter (which I assume you cleaned already), a clogged passage restricting fluid flow, or a stuck valve. It would seem wise to remove as much of the old fluid as possible in an attempt to free any sticking parts.
This little wealth of info from Toyota 4X4 might help:
First suggestion:
If the fluid is that bad it has been slipping for some time.
Drain the tranny first at the plug,and the transfer case plug,do not pull the pan yet!
Put in Dextron 3 and see if moves and shifts. If it moves and feels sluggish shifting or slipps when trying to take off stop. Get a manual run the codes for the tranny diagnostics and see if has any. Sometimes solenoids will give you a code as well as a speed sensor that could cause your problem. Most of the a340h problems were shift solenoids and can be replaced by dropping the pan and unbolting them from the valve body. But if this has been doing this for very long that amounts to pissing on a high rise fire. Too little too late if ya get my drift. If you have a shop you trust take it in have them check before it gets to a point where it wont move even in 4low.
If this shift ok in 4 low ,through all the gears 2-3 no od in 4wheel it may be ok. Or saveable at a reasonable cost.
Check your ECT trany computer make sure its plugged in and you have good connections,if youhave an electrical problem to the ecu or no power from it ,the tranny will start in high gear,which would appear to be slipping from a start. Which it is in theory,because it can't take that kinda torque from a standstill.
Second suggestion:
Try some TransX fluid in it, this will soften up the inner seals maybe .
It sound like your direct clutch seals are rolled or flat,if it does it in reverse which it probably does also it has the reverse brake seals out. Same type o-rings , again same problem, if that is the case you're soon to be slipping will then be stopped.
Try the transx and if that doesn't do it save your money ,your going to either have to have an overhaul or get a used tranny.
Last suggestion:
When you start up in the morning and want to go, try manually shifting between gears to see if it works that way ok. If it does then I would suspect the shift solenoids inside the tranny on the valve body. This can be checked form the ECU connections. Not sure is a "Haynes" manual showns the location but the factory manuals do of course.
Something to thing about and it's a quick and easy test.
Oops, forgot to mention that it would be either the #1 or #2 shift solenoids to test first. The lockup solenoid usually is ok but the #2 is know to go bad. The solenoids should measure 12-15 ohms resistance from the ECU connector to ground. Only suspect the solenoids if your tranny works fine if you manually shift through the gears. It takes less than 15 minutes to check the solenoids though if you want to satisfy your curiosity.
If the fluid is that bad it has been slipping for some time.
Drain the tranny first at the plug,and the transfer case plug,do not pull the pan yet!
Put in Dextron 3 and see if moves and shifts. If it moves and feels sluggish shifting or slipps when trying to take off stop. Get a manual run the codes for the tranny diagnostics and see if has any. Sometimes solenoids will give you a code as well as a speed sensor that could cause your problem. Most of the a340h problems were shift solenoids and can be replaced by dropping the pan and unbolting them from the valve body. But if this has been doing this for very long that amounts to pissing on a high rise fire. Too little too late if ya get my drift. If you have a shop you trust take it in have them check before it gets to a point where it wont move even in 4low.
If this shift ok in 4 low ,through all the gears 2-3 no od in 4wheel it may be ok. Or saveable at a reasonable cost.
Check your ECT trany computer make sure its plugged in and you have good connections,if youhave an electrical problem to the ecu or no power from it ,the tranny will start in high gear,which would appear to be slipping from a start. Which it is in theory,because it can't take that kinda torque from a standstill.
Second suggestion:
Try some TransX fluid in it, this will soften up the inner seals maybe .
It sound like your direct clutch seals are rolled or flat,if it does it in reverse which it probably does also it has the reverse brake seals out. Same type o-rings , again same problem, if that is the case you're soon to be slipping will then be stopped.
Try the transx and if that doesn't do it save your money ,your going to either have to have an overhaul or get a used tranny.
Last suggestion:
When you start up in the morning and want to go, try manually shifting between gears to see if it works that way ok. If it does then I would suspect the shift solenoids inside the tranny on the valve body. This can be checked form the ECU connections. Not sure is a "Haynes" manual showns the location but the factory manuals do of course.
Something to thing about and it's a quick and easy test.
Oops, forgot to mention that it would be either the #1 or #2 shift solenoids to test first. The lockup solenoid usually is ok but the #2 is know to go bad. The solenoids should measure 12-15 ohms resistance from the ECU connector to ground. Only suspect the solenoids if your tranny works fine if you manually shift through the gears. It takes less than 15 minutes to check the solenoids though if you want to satisfy your curiosity.
The A340E/A340F/A340H 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
This is Toyotas ECT (Electronically Controlled Transmission) automatic. It is used in both 22RE (4wd) models and in the 3VZ-E and 22R-TE (both 2wd and 4wd)
1st 2.804, 2nd 1.531, 3rd 1.000, 4th 0.705 Reverse: 2.393.
The 4WD version (A340H) has a transfer case with low-range gearing of 2.659:1
Models designated A340F have (I think) the VF2A transfer case with a 2.566:1 low range
Someone who asked to be anonymous sent the following info:
The codes breakdown is as follows
A 340 H
A = automatic transmission
3 = 3 series
4 = 4 speed
0 = gear ratio / minor change
H = hydraulic transfer case (includes ECT)
F = mechanical transfer case (includes ECT)
E = Electronic Controlled Transmission (used on 2WD 4Runners, other 2WD Toyota vehicles)
This transmission uses 2 solenoids to control the shifting.
solenoid 1 solenoid 2
1 th = ON OFF
2 nd = ON ON
3 rd = OFF ON
4 th = OFF OFF
The throttle cable is used for line pressure, it can be disconnected and
the transmission will still shift normally.
But if youloose power to your 2 shift solenoid, you will be taking off in
OverDrive.
What you should do is :
Select LOW 1 . (1 st gear) then 2nd ( 3rd gear) then D (over drive)
Finally some helpful cross reference info:
In my pursuit to replace my shift solenoids, i found some useful cross reference info. The #1 and #2 shift solenoids (85420-22080) were the same in all of the following vehicles. I wanted to swap in some used ones b4 i buy new ones to make sure i have the problem found. Auto tranny trucks are rare in the junk yards around here, so this list should come in handy when i go looking...
85-88 Cressida
84-95 Trucks (2wd & 4wd)
93-98 T100
92-97 Previa Van
86.5-92 Supra
In my pursuit to replace my shift solenoids, i found some useful cross reference info. The #1 and #2 shift solenoids (85420-22080) were the same in all of the following vehicles. I wanted to swap in some used ones b4 i buy new ones to make sure i have the problem found. Auto tranny trucks are rare in the junk yards around here, so this list should come in handy when i go looking...
85-88 Cressida
84-95 Trucks (2wd & 4wd)
93-98 T100
92-97 Previa Van
86.5-92 Supra
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 09-05-2003 at 09:02 AM.
09-05-2003, 08:46 AM
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Knowing that you had old fluid in the A/T, why not start with 2 cases of ATF and flush it yourself? Get all that old stuff out of there and see if that helps free up whatever may be sticking? http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq8.htm
One tip if you try this. I made up a measuring stick for my 5 gallon bucket so I could keep track of how much pumped out versus poured in. You will need to stop occasionally to "catch up" with the pump. Fairly straight forward task.
One tip if you try this. I made up a measuring stick for my 5 gallon bucket so I could keep track of how much pumped out versus poured in. You will need to stop occasionally to "catch up" with the pump. Fairly straight forward task.
09-05-2003, 09:11 AM
#27
Contributing Member
Here is a bit more info from someone else's situation that might help you out:
The hell problem revisited!! Okay, I had what I thought was a solenoid problem about 6 months ago which produced the same problems as you are having (plus some). I researched and researched and even had a transmission guy give his (wrong) opinion.
I replaced both solenoids (see pic), the speed sensor, and the TPS. The problem still existed.
I finally found a loose connector plug in the rat's nest under the intake manifold which goes to the solenoids. I tightened the connection and the problem has yet to re-surface. At least I have a spare TPS, speed sensor, and solenoids!!
Also, after I removed the solenoids, I bench tested them and they were perfect. You can test them easily and I suggest doing so, unless you just want new ones...oh yeah, mine were $130/pair at a transmission hard parts store.
The OBD codes and what they mean:
One is located in the gauge cluster and runs off the speedo etc and the other is in the trannie LHD side.
42 = No 1 speed sensor (Gauges)
61 = No 2 speed sensor (Trans)
62 = No 1 solenoid
63 = No 2 solenoid
64 = No 3 solenoid (lock up)
65 = No 4 solenoid
Either defective or problems with wiring etc.
Pulling the codes are very easy so definately do that to start.
Then try to go through the gears manually...if that works...then solenoids.
If not you definately have something else wrong inside the tranny.
Hope it helps.
The hell problem revisited!! Okay, I had what I thought was a solenoid problem about 6 months ago which produced the same problems as you are having (plus some). I researched and researched and even had a transmission guy give his (wrong) opinion.
I replaced both solenoids (see pic), the speed sensor, and the TPS. The problem still existed.
I finally found a loose connector plug in the rat's nest under the intake manifold which goes to the solenoids. I tightened the connection and the problem has yet to re-surface. At least I have a spare TPS, speed sensor, and solenoids!!
Also, after I removed the solenoids, I bench tested them and they were perfect. You can test them easily and I suggest doing so, unless you just want new ones...oh yeah, mine were $130/pair at a transmission hard parts store.
The OBD codes and what they mean:
One is located in the gauge cluster and runs off the speedo etc and the other is in the trannie LHD side.
42 = No 1 speed sensor (Gauges)
61 = No 2 speed sensor (Trans)
62 = No 1 solenoid
63 = No 2 solenoid
64 = No 3 solenoid (lock up)
65 = No 4 solenoid
Either defective or problems with wiring etc.
Then try to go through the gears manually...if that works...then solenoids.
If not you definately have something else wrong inside the tranny.
Hope it helps.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 09-05-2003 at 10:34 AM.
09-05-2003, 10:25 AM
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Originally posted by Ava
I said a raked off teaspoon, that's not much over the years it wasn't serviced. I could tell the oilpan wasn't removed that many times; I think the original sealant was still on it, covered with a layer of another colour sealant. I'll ask around if someone knows a place that can do a proper tranny flush, but I doubt any exists.
We can assume the filter mesh is fine enough so that what gets trough won't be of enough significance.
I think we also can conclude that the plates are not the cause.
Take my word for it, if I go ahead and ask someone overhere to repair it I'll end up with a set of new plates ($500 US) and the cause not taken away. I need to find what's responsible for the stalling first.
Do you know where I can find good schematics about (this)transmission(s) on the net?
I *know* it's just a valve, not a worn down pack of clutches, but nobody seems to want me to repair it. If a valve leaks, the clutch controlled by it slips, causing wear, clogging the filter. If I can repair the valve, the slipping would be over (as long as there is enough friction material left). This particular valve seems not to malfunction all the time, only around the time the car won't go. This could mean the plates are still good enough. After cleaning the filter the car shifts much more positive so there must be some material left on the plates.
Ava.
I said a raked off teaspoon, that's not much over the years it wasn't serviced. I could tell the oilpan wasn't removed that many times; I think the original sealant was still on it, covered with a layer of another colour sealant. I'll ask around if someone knows a place that can do a proper tranny flush, but I doubt any exists.
We can assume the filter mesh is fine enough so that what gets trough won't be of enough significance.
I think we also can conclude that the plates are not the cause.
Take my word for it, if I go ahead and ask someone overhere to repair it I'll end up with a set of new plates ($500 US) and the cause not taken away. I need to find what's responsible for the stalling first.
Do you know where I can find good schematics about (this)transmission(s) on the net?
I *know* it's just a valve, not a worn down pack of clutches, but nobody seems to want me to repair it. If a valve leaks, the clutch controlled by it slips, causing wear, clogging the filter. If I can repair the valve, the slipping would be over (as long as there is enough friction material left). This particular valve seems not to malfunction all the time, only around the time the car won't go. This could mean the plates are still good enough. After cleaning the filter the car shifts much more positive so there must be some material left on the plates.
Ava.
One last thought, in the 'old' days, we used to be able to connect a diagnostic device up to different access ports on the transmission which would allow one to take pressure readings while actually driving the vehicle. This would sometimes help in pinpointing a specific hydrolic circuit that was not working properly, especially if it was in intermittant problem. I don't know if this is still possible, but it might be worth looking into.
I think, at this point, I have hit the limit of my 'expertise' that I have available. I wish you luck, and hope you can solve this.
09-05-2003, 09:01 PM
#29
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Originally posted by MTL_4runner
I don't think that the general concensus was that your plates are gone. It was said that you may already have done damage to the plates or they may be severly worn potentially because of the valve problem as was discussed and the lack of maintenance throughout the trucks history.
I think the general direction people targeted was a lack of fluid pressure to engage the plates. I think it was also suggested that either the pump was being starved of fluid from contamination on the filter (which I assume you cleaned already), a clogged passage restricting fluid flow, or a stuck valve.
I don't think that the general concensus was that your plates are gone. It was said that you may already have done damage to the plates or they may be severly worn potentially because of the valve problem as was discussed and the lack of maintenance throughout the trucks history.
I think the general direction people targeted was a lack of fluid pressure to engage the plates. I think it was also suggested that either the pump was being starved of fluid from contamination on the filter (which I assume you cleaned already), a clogged passage restricting fluid flow, or a stuck valve.
Surinam was once one of the rich countries but now but has degraded to more or less a third world country over the past 20 or so years. Many people with real skills went to other parts of the world and that automatically means workmanship has suffered in general.
Not even the better garages here would touch an A/T with a ten foot pole. Most don't know how they work and suggest new plates. The one place I could go to wants me to bring only the transmission, not the whole car. They only have wooden blocks to elevate the car and one hydraulic jack to lower the tranny.
Well, if I could get the tranny off myself, I would repair it myself, wouldn't I?
PS: I found this site that may be of interest to some of you on the forum: http://www.icarumba.com/cobrands/con...ia/default.asp
Thanks for taking the time MTL_4runner,
Ava.
09-05-2003, 09:06 PM
#30
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Originally posted by TechWrench
I think, at this point, I have hit the limit of my 'expertise' that I have available. I wish you luck, and hope you can solve this.
I think, at this point, I have hit the limit of my 'expertise' that I have available. I wish you luck, and hope you can solve this.
Ava.
09-05-2003, 10:02 PM
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Ok, what does everybody mean by shifting manually? I cannot choose which gear the car is in, or can I? I can put the levers in the PRND2L plus 2-4-4L, is that what is meant?
- When the car malfunctions it won't move in ANY position of the shift levers.
- I feel some 'pressure' on the wheels, so that 'could' point in the direction of trying to take off in overdrive. But there doesn't seem to be much resistance on the engine, if any.
- Today all the gears worked, but I could feel/hear it wasn't working properly and it also delayed a bit. I let it take some short sprints and the enige overheated (I still have an overheating problem, possibly a clogged radiator). Probably there was some pressure loss and the added heat from the tranny let the gauge rise some more. A few hours later the car was fine again, no noticeable slippage at all.
- Since the solenoids are working in a binary pattern it would be very easy to notice if one wasn't working; I would be missing two gears.
- Since I don't seem to have any drive, both solenoids could fail temporarily because of a loose wire or something. That would mean the car is stuck 4th gear. But how does that work for loss of drive in reverse?
If the valvebody can be removed I could give it a try and do it myself. Are there any valves left that I cannot reach from below and that would make removal of the whole unit necessary anyway?
Ava.
- When the car malfunctions it won't move in ANY position of the shift levers.
- I feel some 'pressure' on the wheels, so that 'could' point in the direction of trying to take off in overdrive. But there doesn't seem to be much resistance on the engine, if any.
- Today all the gears worked, but I could feel/hear it wasn't working properly and it also delayed a bit. I let it take some short sprints and the enige overheated (I still have an overheating problem, possibly a clogged radiator). Probably there was some pressure loss and the added heat from the tranny let the gauge rise some more. A few hours later the car was fine again, no noticeable slippage at all.
- Since the solenoids are working in a binary pattern it would be very easy to notice if one wasn't working; I would be missing two gears.
- Since I don't seem to have any drive, both solenoids could fail temporarily because of a loose wire or something. That would mean the car is stuck 4th gear. But how does that work for loss of drive in reverse?
If the valvebody can be removed I could give it a try and do it myself. Are there any valves left that I cannot reach from below and that would make removal of the whole unit necessary anyway?
Ava.
09-06-2003, 04:29 AM
#32
Contributing Member
Originally posted by Ava
Not even the better garages here would touch an A/T with a ten foot pole. Most don't know how they work and suggest new plates. The one place I could go to wants me to bring only the transmission, not the whole car. They only have wooden blocks to elevate the car and one hydraulic jack to lower the tranny.
Not even the better garages here would touch an A/T with a ten foot pole. Most don't know how they work and suggest new plates. The one place I could go to wants me to bring only the transmission, not the whole car. They only have wooden blocks to elevate the car and one hydraulic jack to lower the tranny.
Originally posted by Ava
Thanks for taking the time MTL_4runner,
Ava.
Thanks for taking the time MTL_4runner,
Ava.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 09-06-2003 at 04:51 AM.
09-06-2003, 04:48 AM
#33
Contributing Member
Originally posted by Ava
Ok, what does everybody mean by shifting manually? I cannot choose which gear the car is in, or can I? I can put the levers in the PRND2L plus 2-4-4L, is that what is meant?
- When the car malfunctions it won't move in ANY position of the shift levers.
- I feel some 'pressure' on the wheels, so that 'could' point in the direction of trying to take off in overdrive. But there doesn't seem to be much resistance on the engine, if any.
- Today all the gears worked, but I could feel/hear it wasn't working properly and it also delayed a bit. I let it take some short sprints and the enige overheated (I still have an overheating problem, possibly a clogged radiator). Probably there was some pressure loss and the added heat from the tranny let the gauge rise some more. A few hours later the car was fine again, no noticeable slippage at all.
- Since the solenoids are working in a binary pattern it would be very easy to notice if one wasn't working; I would be missing two gears.
- Since I don't seem to have any drive, both solenoids could fail temporarily because of a loose wire or something. That would mean the car is stuck 4th gear. But how does that work for loss of drive in reverse?
If the valvebody can be removed I could give it a try and do it myself. Are there any valves left that I cannot reach from below and that would make removal of the whole unit necessary anyway?
Ava.
Ok, what does everybody mean by shifting manually? I cannot choose which gear the car is in, or can I? I can put the levers in the PRND2L plus 2-4-4L, is that what is meant?
- When the car malfunctions it won't move in ANY position of the shift levers.
- I feel some 'pressure' on the wheels, so that 'could' point in the direction of trying to take off in overdrive. But there doesn't seem to be much resistance on the engine, if any.
- Today all the gears worked, but I could feel/hear it wasn't working properly and it also delayed a bit. I let it take some short sprints and the enige overheated (I still have an overheating problem, possibly a clogged radiator). Probably there was some pressure loss and the added heat from the tranny let the gauge rise some more. A few hours later the car was fine again, no noticeable slippage at all.
- Since the solenoids are working in a binary pattern it would be very easy to notice if one wasn't working; I would be missing two gears.
- Since I don't seem to have any drive, both solenoids could fail temporarily because of a loose wire or something. That would mean the car is stuck 4th gear. But how does that work for loss of drive in reverse?
If the valvebody can be removed I could give it a try and do it myself. Are there any valves left that I cannot reach from below and that would make removal of the whole unit necessary anyway?
Ava.
Have you pulled the diagnostic codes yet?
When you pulled the pan was the fluid burnt? Smelled Ok?
To me it still seems like a lack of fluid problem (obviously) but not the solenoids because you said it won't move in any position of the gears. You could have other problems like a bad torque converter, blocked fluid passage, stuck lockup piston or a bad fluid pump causing the sympoms. It might also be that you have debris still floating around in there and causing the intermittent occurance you are experiencing (flush that tranny!). You might want to try that trans-x stuff and see if it doesn't help soften and expand the seals (it might delay the rebuild a bit longer). That is a pretty cheap bandaid for now. I am afraid the problem is looking more and more serious as we go along here. Most of what we are talking about now is very internal to the tranny and will require its removal to correct the problem properly. I would pull the valve body down, make sure all the check balls are there (if there are any) and move freely. Then check the operation of the shift solenoids and make sure (via your wiring diagram) that no connections (including grounds) are loose, corroded or disconnected. If all that fails, I am afraid you will likely need to brace yourself for a rebuild and start pulling the tranny.....sry about that bit of bad news.
I feel bad for ya man because it seems like that truck has multiple problems all at once.......you gotta attack it from all sides! :pat:
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 09-06-2003 at 05:10 AM.
09-06-2003, 09:55 AM
#34
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Originally posted by MTL_4runner
Shifting manually means to shift it down into 2nd and L (the transfer case 2-4-4L has nothing to do with the tranny) which should force it into that gear and will bypass the solenoid shifting function.
Have you pulled the diagnostic codes yet?
When you pulled the pan was the fluid burnt? Smelled Ok?
Shifting manually means to shift it down into 2nd and L (the transfer case 2-4-4L has nothing to do with the tranny) which should force it into that gear and will bypass the solenoid shifting function.
Have you pulled the diagnostic codes yet?
When you pulled the pan was the fluid burnt? Smelled Ok?
Here I found a 340 manual and it's cheap ($14,99): http://www.wholinks.net/Automotive/R...EA340-E-H.html
Whatever I do I don't get the morse code. I jumper TE1 and E1 and the checklight just keeps blinking without even a pause. I'll have to wait till the problem reappears, I guess. Or the diagnostics are shut down in the past to keep the rig running?
The oil smelled like oil that's been in use for a while. It smelled a little heavier than the bottle with fresh Dextrol III, possibly a little burnt odor, but not like an overly used frying pan or anything.
Just found the boilerplate those morons blew of the tranny a while back with a 28000 psi pressure cleaner. It says: Aisin AW Co. Ltd., Model 30-83LE, that is not the same as an A340, or is it?
Ava.
09-06-2003, 12:02 PM
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DO NOT REMOVE THE VALVE BODY. That would be a very big mistake. The solenoids are under the filter and are easily identifiable, they are held in by a single bolt and have the wire connected to them. It is probably the lock up solenoid if it won't go backwards or forwards. Here is a site that gives the approximate location of all the solenoids.
www.net-impress.com/4runner/cd/
and look for the auto trans file. Scroll down to page five and it shows the a340h which is what yours is.
www.net-impress.com/4runner/cd/
and look for the auto trans file. Scroll down to page five and it shows the a340h which is what yours is.
09-06-2003, 12:53 PM
#36
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Originally posted by Babypig
DO NOT REMOVE THE VALVE BODY. That would be a very big mistake. The solenoids are under the filter and are easily identifiable, they are held in by a single bolt and have the wire connected to them. It is probably the lock up solenoid if it won't go backwards or forwards. Here is a site that gives the approximate location of all the solenoids.
www.net-impress.com/4runner/cd/
and look for the auto trans file. Scroll down to page five and it shows the a340h which is what yours is.
DO NOT REMOVE THE VALVE BODY. That would be a very big mistake. The solenoids are under the filter and are easily identifiable, they are held in by a single bolt and have the wire connected to them. It is probably the lock up solenoid if it won't go backwards or forwards. Here is a site that gives the approximate location of all the solenoids.
www.net-impress.com/4runner/cd/
and look for the auto trans file. Scroll down to page five and it shows the a340h which is what yours is.
They look like scans of all the garage shop repair manuals.
That will be getting bookmarked.
I do agree it can be difficult to remove the valve body but it is good to ensure that everything is working properly and the check balls are definately part of it. If any are stuck or damaged then it can cause all sorts of havoc. I think if you are careful this should not be that big of a deal, just be diligent about noting exactly where the parts go when it is time to reinstall.
Here is a link which may help a bit to see the internals:
http://www.transtec.com/rebuilder_news/1st_q00r-n.pdf
Scroll down until you see the A340 section.
Gives a bit of history and which vehicles used it
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 09-06-2003 at 01:02 PM.
This why i like 5 speeds
09-06-2003, 01:44 PM
#38
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Originally posted by Ava
Hi,
It was already on it, as was the bull-bar and belly plate. This car was imported used, and probably from Japan.
But I'm not very familiar with the names of all the accessories.
The chrome thing on the front is a bull-bar? The aluminum plate is a belly plate? Or is that the steel plate below the front of the engine? And what are those boards called below the doors?
Ava.
Hi,
It was already on it, as was the bull-bar and belly plate. This car was imported used, and probably from Japan.
But I'm not very familiar with the names of all the accessories.
The chrome thing on the front is a bull-bar? The aluminum plate is a belly plate? Or is that the steel plate below the front of the engine? And what are those boards called below the doors?
Ava.
09-06-2003, 08:03 PM
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Originally posted by Paul H.
Ava, The Chrome thing is usually called a brush gaurd, If it didn't have the pieces over the head lights it would be called a bull-bar. The plate below and in front of the bumper is a skid plate. The aluminum one is for show, the steel one is the real deal. The boards below the door are your running boards. Hope this helps and I hope your fix your trans problem.
Ava, The Chrome thing is usually called a brush gaurd, If it didn't have the pieces over the head lights it would be called a bull-bar. The plate below and in front of the bumper is a skid plate. The aluminum one is for show, the steel one is the real deal. The boards below the door are your running boards. Hope this helps and I hope your fix your trans problem.
Ava
09-06-2003, 09:04 PM
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MTL_4runner, I have to hand it to ya, I definitley wouldn't take mine apart. I don't have the room mind you living in downtown Vancouver. It wouldn't be so bad if I had a trans to take apart first. I'm just sooooo afraid of ####ing it up. Where abouts are you in Montréal? I used to live on Sherbrooke just of the decarie, next to the PFK. Loved living there, then went to school in Ottawa. Good site about the trans as well.
Salut
Steve
P.S. I think it's the Habs year.
Salut
Steve
P.S. I think it's the Habs year.
