Dreidel

ok so i think this is the most appropriate section to post this in so here it goes i have recently purchased a 86 turbo parts truck. i was told that the truck didnt have the turbo in it but had all the other important stuff, turns out a garrett t3 was in a bag on the passenger floor board (SCORE!!!) (said truck is also posted in the parting out section of the classified) any way the plan is to swap the gauge cluster into my 3rd gen truck, bolt on exhaust manifold, swap upper intake plenum because i like the tag on it, swap injectors, ecu, sr5 stuff basically, without switching the entire wire harness. (ill need lots of wiring diagrams. changing the ecu connectors is going to be a pain) my plans have been put on hold for a few days because the machinist i paid to make my adapters took 2 1/2 weeks to make them and now they are done but they are locked in his tool box while he went on vacation. but thats all im waiting for and the shipping on my gauges wont be here till mid jan, not a huge deal i guess. ill post more progress later but im wondering if there is any sensors that i should make sure to get like the sensor for the turbo over boost light ect thanks

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Dreidel

basically im wondering what i should use off the turbo motor on my motor while i build the turbo block because the motor is complete minus original turbo and the rad

Dreidel

ok so this thread has shown no interest and in hopes that someone will use some info here at some point anyway.
so i started work thursday and that was pretty short lived. it started by trying to clock the exhaust housing so that when it got put on the truck, the oil inlet would be on top like its supposed to be. so i spent a couple hours getting the turbine housing bolts off, it required lots of heat, pb blaster, and 2 cheater pipes. i got super excited about getting all four off, little did i know that was the easy part,
the housing is siezed to the chra and is not coming off. after some searching online everybody said just hit it with a hammer and be careful not to mess up the turbine when knocking it off. sadly with the turbine housing looking like a cheetah from my brass hammer and its still on there. then i put the turbo in a vice by the oil flanges and a huge cheater pipe, stuck it in the turbine housing and consequently ripped the vice clean off the bench (opps), so i put it on the floor, grabbed a 4 foot 1.5 sqaure tube put it over a 2in pipe wrench, put it on the chra stood on the other cheater pipe

IT BROKE LOOSE!!!! wrong now the cheater pipe in the turbine housing looks like the hook from the movie "i know what you did last summer"
so finally admitting defeat (i should mark that in a calender first time ive been willing to pay somebody else to do something) i throw it in the truck and head to our local 4x4 land. that was a bad idea, he told me they could get it off then mentioned something about cutting it off and i was like " oh yeah that would work i guess" and i left, these guys are clearly cold air intake specialist and i wasnt about to entrust my turbo with them and left.

so across town to injection turbo, and at 87 dollars a hour and me only having $20. i packed up my turbo and almost went home. untill i started driving by a junk yard that i buy from all the time. thankfully the owner let me have free run of his shop and tools (all about who you know ) after heating only the turbine housing to the point of burning the oil out of everything it sill didnt break loose with again another long cheater pipe. this brings us to know where i have officially gone to plan b, which involves putting the entire turbo in kroil or atf and letting it sit for a week or two then giving it to my step sister for her 01 celica, my step dad bought a holset h1c off ebay (unwastegated hx35) to put on his 6.5l detriot but the seller said it came of a cummins (supposed to be a upgrade for the 6.5) but it has the small 12cm exhaust housing and he said i could have it if he could use some parts off of my holset H2D (this thing is massive has a 25cm exhaust housing basically unwastegated hx50 or hx55 came off a L10 cummins) so now i have to buy a $65 wastegate of ebay and make a custom set of turbo headers.

lots of people say the the hx35 is really laggy on a 2.4l but according to my calulations at 3000 rpms i will have just started into the sweet spot on the h1c compressor map but we will see and ill keep you guys posted on anything new

Logan81Pickup

I'm not sure what you're trying to do in any of this, and your lack of periods made it almost impossible for me to read it.

Dreidel

basically i was giving my plans to do the swap and asking 1 question about what parts i should use off the turbo motor on my motor since i have the whole truck. i tried to go through and fix most of the punctuation.
edit: im not sure what exactly was going through my head when i was writing the first post my mind kinda went all over the place at once

Logan81Pickup

Unless you have an r151f transmission then no there aren't any parts that I know of.

Dreidel

ok well hopefully my new holset will show up soon because my garrett has me stumped

thebeeler

Ah I just re-read it, I have never had any problems clocking the housing where it should be. Some turbo's have bolts, some have V-band style. If you can't get it apart pretty easily, it's most likely wasted.

Dreidel

this garrett had bolts but not like most where there is a lip around it the bolts run through holes on the chra and bolt to the turbine housing all the garretts i have seen have bolts and little plates that hold the housing on if that makes any sense at all. this one has just been such a pain that im done with it practically got it for free so its my step sisters problem (really my step dads cause hes going to be working on it lol)

Dreidel

ok so yet another turn i found a holset he351ve for practically a steal (the guy sold 11 of them in 3 days glad i got one) basically for you guys that arent into cummins and stuff the he351ve is a variable geometry turbo of the new 6.7l cummins and the vgt (variable geometry turbo) allows the the cm^2 of the exhaust housing to be as small as 3.5 cm^2 all the way up to 25 cm^2 so it should spool crazy fast like a small turbo but allowing the engine to breath in the higher rpms like a big turbo. i should have it buy the end of the month and i will post pics. from what i here this thing is huge

Dreidel

ok so now that paypal is done raping me i finally paid for the turbo (very happy that the seller was understanding) its in the mail and i should have it soon
my idea for a controller so far is this
i have a double acting pneumatic cylinder with a spring in it (spring is pretty tough goin to have to fix that) the side without the spring is going to be hook up to the boost side, the side with the spring is going to be hooked to a source of vacuum (right in front of compressor). that way the spring will return the vanes to the closed position. needle valves on both line for adjust-ability and a shifter out of a semi with the pneumatic switch that will be hooked into the boost line that way when im cruising the vacuum will take over and suck the cylinder down so im not running full boost while cruising and get rid of extra stress.
im trying to do this without a external wastegate but i might build a adapter as a saftey because i wont be able to use a blow off valve with this setup because if the bov releases the pressure during a pull while testing, that will lead to about 40+ psi plus a extreme lean condition plrobably leading to a blown motor and thats a nono, cant have that
going to invest in something a little more than hose clamps to hold the charge pipes together
if anybody has some input on anything feel free to chime in especially a fail safe just in case i blow a charge boot or something like that

HighLux

If that turbo is impossible to get apart its more than likely been too hot and is probably bad.

Dreidel

its not bad i finally got it apart the day the first holset showed i the mail (junk btw needs compessor wheel and turbine wheel/shaft) it just had rust on the mating surfaces problem was i was using pressure and it needed force. first day of school took about 15 min in the metal shop and it was apart, just had to get a BFH

Dreidel

the garrett is honestly in near perfect condition absolutly no end to end play and expected side to side

HighLux

Gotcha. Why turbo? Just curious. Is it a "turbo is cool thing" or is it "want more power" thing?

I've had a fairly quick power adder car...I can seem to wrap my head around
wanting to try and make a truck quicker.

DirtyHarry460

As far as i know the 22re block is differnt than the 22ret block. the turbo block has more coolant channels and other stuff. So you should use the turbo block. You might be doing this already, didnt read every post

HighLux

Only diff is the oil return for the turbo motor in block. You can tap the pan and do the same thing with a non turbo block. I did a vortec centri on a buddies 5.0 and did the tap the oil pan method. Was cake.

Dreidel

idk i like the idea of forced induction ahh never mind just turbos, ive been presented a oportunity that i am willing to take full advantage of and as far as power adders turbo is the way to go
i like fast, i cant afford another car, and i like 4wd (never really been good at saving money so saving for a new car is out of the question and being 17 insurance would f*** me another vehicle i already pay 110 a month and i have no tickets or wrecks and thats after a good driver discount used to be 140 for liability)

Dreidel

im not sure if i want to put a turbo with light boost on my truck now and build my rte block seperatly or save the turbo for the rte block
the oil inlet is there but you have to tap all the way throught the block to get to it, when i do it im just going to run a line from the spare oil pressure sending unit bung to the turbo (behind passenger side motor mount

HighLux

I get were youre coming from now Dre.

Completely understandable....and then add a dash of crazy huh?

This was my baby. http://s935.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=100_0504.mp4