Test drove a '95 SR5 4Runner... question and need your knowledge?
#1
Test drove a '95 SR5 4Runner... question and need your knowledge?
Hi there,
I'm a video producer looking for a bullet-proof rig to use for filming. It needs to get me to places not accessible to all cars, and travel across several states (and back) trouble-free.
I found a 1995 SR5 4Runner 3.0 V6 AWD with 175,000 miles at a local dealer today ("Just came in on trade-in") and I really like it. It has that classic 90s styling (wow, did I just type that?) and seemed to run great. Body was straight, no signs of damage - just regular wear and tear and a crummy aftermarket stereo.
Power windows, which all seem to work (even the back window). The manual transmission shifted smoothly (even the low-range and AWD selector)
Dealership is asking $5,000 for it. My big concern is that it hasn't had the head gasket replaced according to the service database. The sales guy called "his friend at the Toyota dealership" and he said that (after running the VIN) this one has not had the gasket replaced, but that the recall for the head gasket didn't apply to the 1995 model. Is he full of it? What are your thoughts? Is this a good deal (all the other '95s I've seen online have gone for a similar price)?
Thanks for helping me out here.
I'm a video producer looking for a bullet-proof rig to use for filming. It needs to get me to places not accessible to all cars, and travel across several states (and back) trouble-free.
I found a 1995 SR5 4Runner 3.0 V6 AWD with 175,000 miles at a local dealer today ("Just came in on trade-in") and I really like it. It has that classic 90s styling (wow, did I just type that?) and seemed to run great. Body was straight, no signs of damage - just regular wear and tear and a crummy aftermarket stereo.
Power windows, which all seem to work (even the back window). The manual transmission shifted smoothly (even the low-range and AWD selector)
Dealership is asking $5,000 for it. My big concern is that it hasn't had the head gasket replaced according to the service database. The sales guy called "his friend at the Toyota dealership" and he said that (after running the VIN) this one has not had the gasket replaced, but that the recall for the head gasket didn't apply to the 1995 model. Is he full of it? What are your thoughts? Is this a good deal (all the other '95s I've seen online have gone for a similar price)?
Thanks for helping me out here.
Last edited by rdouthit; 09-02-2011 at 11:01 AM.
#2
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If I were you and decided to buy this, I would tell them you would take it for (enter amount here) after they replace headgaskets. If they are getting hungry enough in this economy they may go for it.
#5
Registered User
Man I was just gonna tell him the same thing. I was just checkin c-list for later model runners. But yeah I'd look for a 96-99 or so runner.
I see your in WA judgeing by the plates on that runner. If you're close to oregon check this one out.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/2528679191.html
or this
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/2572300824.html
I see your in WA judgeing by the plates on that runner. If you're close to oregon check this one out.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/2528679191.html
or this
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/2572300824.html
Last edited by 85TurboRunner; 09-02-2011 at 11:53 AM.
#6
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I have a 1995 4Runner with a manual transmission and I've never had any problem with my heads and I just hit 250,000 miles (I'm the original owner). I prefer the manual because I seem to get better gas mileage than my friends with automatic boxes in the same style truck plus for wheeling I prefer it. That said, I too would recommend a newer vehicle with the better motor. Although the 3.0 motor has been good to me, for hauling stuff around for a film shoot and a lot of offroad action you will be happier with a larger displacement motor. The only downside it it may be harder to find a manual transmission if that's what your heart is set on. You should be able to shop around and find a lot of good trucks in that price range. You may also want to consider a pickup as that will really open up your options but I realize you may be hauling film equipment around - making an open bed a deal breaker.
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#9
Thanks for the feedback. Luckily, I got a call back from an owner of a local 1996 (V6, SR5, AWD, AT) I was also hoping to check out. I drove it tonight and, pending a good inspection, I'll likely buy it on Monday.
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Be sure to do your research on it (i.e. Carfax, thorough inspection for rust, etc...). There really isn't much with the 3rd gens that is an instant deterrent, but regardless, it's best to check it out as well as you can.
Any pics of it?
Fink
Any pics of it?
Fink
#11
We dropped the rig off at a local shop on Friday to do a thorough inspection on a lift. I should get the report on Tuesday. (the seller is out of town this weekend anyhow.)
Only thing I noticed was what appeared to be a leaky hub on the rear - some oil was coating a wheel well. But everything else looked tight and dry (in a good way).
I'll post some pictures later.
Only thing I noticed was what appeared to be a leaky hub on the rear - some oil was coating a wheel well. But everything else looked tight and dry (in a good way).
I'll post some pictures later.
Last edited by rdouthit; 09-03-2011 at 11:24 AM.
#12
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FYI - That leaky hub could be a blown axle seal which could lead to a $500 repair or so depending on whether or not the rig is equipped with ABS. DI.Y. for about $250-300, but if you do one, you should do the opposite as well, and the bearings will need to be pressed.
#15
Check for leaking fluids. I picked 1997 in CA for $5000. It had 270K miles, and clean engine. So I assumed the head gaskets had been changed out. They now leak (320k miles), but that truck has been through hell and back.
The differential seals will go out. I'm onto the second worn seal.
On a 1995 Aussie 4runner, the pinion seal is leaking.
Check:
- All the electrical is functional.
- The fluids are not leaking.
- The fluids have been changed (diff, trans).
- Open the radiator and hope you don't see oil.
- Drop the oil and hope you don't see green (coolant).
- If the exhaust is missing, it won't pass smog in Cali... I don't know where you are.
- Suspension components go out, so over a speed bump if it bounces for a while, it'll need new shocks.
- Good tires are worth the money - over $1000 (BFG All - Terrains are my pick)
- Get the tow package (after market is garbage), with bull bar.
- Try the 4x4. This should be run every month to keep the parts lubed properly. Listen for grinding.
- In Australia (NSW), get current registration. Passing the check list for this is costly and is not worth the money.
In the end, get the best price you can.
On the test drive:
- If it vibrates when stopping, it needs the rotors ground.
- If there is a hum at speed, Diff seal may be going, propeller shaft may be slightly bent, or trans/diff gears may need adjusting/replacing.
- For Auto Trans, when it switches gears (fast acceleration), hope it doesn't click.
That's all that comes to mind.... Good luck.
The differential seals will go out. I'm onto the second worn seal.
On a 1995 Aussie 4runner, the pinion seal is leaking.
Check:
- All the electrical is functional.
- The fluids are not leaking.
- The fluids have been changed (diff, trans).
- Open the radiator and hope you don't see oil.
- Drop the oil and hope you don't see green (coolant).
- If the exhaust is missing, it won't pass smog in Cali... I don't know where you are.
- Suspension components go out, so over a speed bump if it bounces for a while, it'll need new shocks.
- Good tires are worth the money - over $1000 (BFG All - Terrains are my pick)
- Get the tow package (after market is garbage), with bull bar.
- Try the 4x4. This should be run every month to keep the parts lubed properly. Listen for grinding.
- In Australia (NSW), get current registration. Passing the check list for this is costly and is not worth the money.
In the end, get the best price you can.
On the test drive:
- If it vibrates when stopping, it needs the rotors ground.
- If there is a hum at speed, Diff seal may be going, propeller shaft may be slightly bent, or trans/diff gears may need adjusting/replacing.
- For Auto Trans, when it switches gears (fast acceleration), hope it doesn't click.
That's all that comes to mind.... Good luck.
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