CaptainZ

Even with all the above info, I would still want to get the K&N FIPK. My entire intake oem tubbing is trashed. It looks like(from the inside ) that it was glued back together. Its look very worn and disgusting, so if anyone has a FIPK they want to sell, hit me up and I will take it off your hands .

Has anyone looked into IPT Valve Bodies? They sound good, and are a trusted company. Check them out at www.importperformancetrans.com

Or perhaps if someone has a good condition OEM Tube, I would take that too.

CJM

For the price that throttle body is way to costly for me..Almost 500

Why not just seek out the airaid kit since its cheaper and easier to install (or so I hear).

As for me, gonna do the deckplate hopefully this week or next week and then buy an amsoil filter.

Edit: after looking at the site, those are the same guys who rebuilt my vette trans..I live literally an hour away from them...hmmm

rimpainter.com

In no particular order...

1. Electric fans

2. Taper-bore your throttle body to the butterfly valve.

3. Coolant by-pass mod. This mod can freeze your butterfly valve open in colder climates, so watch it.

4. Use reflective heat shield tape (Summit has it for $15). You can wrap all sorts of stuff with it to keep radiant heat away. The fuel line going from the driver's side fender across the exhaust manifold to the delivery rail(s) is a good place to tape.

5. Inflate your tires a couple PSI above normal (less rolling resistance). Check with your manual/tire expert on this one. My manual recommends 32 psi, but I safely run at 35 psi unless I am off-roading; still well within the tire manufacturer inflation range.

6. Lightweight crank pulley. There is a good thread about this here on YT. I am not an advocate, nor am I an opponent. I simply don't know. URD claims you will have no problems.

I accomplished #2 with a vari-speed Dremel and a grinding/polishing assortment pack from Costco. I have not done #3, but some of my friends swear by it. One friend had a Taco and did it and he said he could feel a difference. Thankfully it is easily reversable. Electric fans, if you can do them for about $100, are worth it IMO. However, at $200+ for the FLX 210's I think it's a bit of a waste of money. Throttle response improved, especially in 5th gear.

Put all or some of these together and you will feel a slight difference. I have yet to see official results of the lighter crank pulley, but they seem to bump power for the Sport Compact folks pretty nicely...

CJM

Tauras electric fans I hear work wonders, as for me I am getting 17-18mpg city out of my T so I cant complain. I always keep my tires inflated to about 3 psi of what the sidewall says..

CaptainZ

Throttle body...Dont you mean VALVE BODY? I dont think AIRAID makes transmission parts....?????

CaptainZ

And does anyone have any idea of where to get headers for the T? I guess TRD ones wont fit, and downey doesnt make them...

rimpainter.com

Headers are a waste of time and money on the 3.4 unless you are SC'd...way too much $$ and hassle for the small gain in HP and TQ. You should be happy they aren't made for the T100.

t100

throttle body spacers arent 500 dollars.. at least the ones i found.. bout how much gain does a throttle body spacer give? 10%

rimpainter.com

How does 0HP sound? Well, you do get a nice "whistle" sound out of the deal...

There is a reason TB spacers are nicknamed "power toilets" - at least for this engine.

surf4runner

i too found this site 2 months AFTER putting on the FIPK. but i still like it.
its been on for 30k mi w/o any complaints.
i got mine new for $185, shipped, off ebay

CJM

Yes, my mistake..

CaptainZ

While that may be true, my existing OEM headers are trashed. The flanges are warped, and I have an exhast leak at EVERY flange. If I am going to replace them or even spend the money to fix, I might as well get some decent ones.

T100NewMexico

Thanks CJM, I think Im clear on that one, I got a new hood about 5 years ago thanks to my careless driving I havent seen any hood flexing on this one.


By the way, have you looked at your air cleaner box? I think your 96 is probably like my 97. The box is ribbed in the location where you would put the deck plate. Not a complete show stopper but you will have to get a little more creative to make it look neat. Also I pullled out my old one today and really looked at the box intake port. The part that passes through the fender is VERY small and it seems to open up into the dead air space between he inner fender and the plastic fender curtain? I would think anything we do would be better than that.

T100NewMexico

96runner, thanks for the great post:bigclap: Seems like theres not a lot of low hanging fruit in the easy gains department. Did you see a noticable gain with the taper bore?

Agree with comment on the headers. The OEM T100 pipes are very header like already. I would look close at OEM vs aftermarket price even if I were changing them out.

I'll have to check into the electric fan option. I hadnt thought of that.

T100NewMexico

Have you checked your intake and mass sensor? Some folks have reported dirt and oil build up due to the ineffectiveness of the K&N filter. 30K is a good test. I checked mine and I had a small build up on the lower portion of the butterfly plate.

CJM

Maybe a good idea tommorow if I have some spare time. Shouldnt be to hard to do the deckplate if I seal the gasket on with rtv or marine sealent, just have to do a good job. I will investiagate the intake port from the fender as well when I get a chance.

rimpainter.com

I would have to say no on that. There might be a couple reasons though:

1. They say you need about 10HP to feel a difference on the "butt-dyno." My guess is that a good taper-bored TB nabs a couple HP through the rev range. Again, I have no scientific evidence to back that up, just my experience with Sport Compact cars (where results of this mod were in fact dyno-proven).

2. The MAFS is too significant of a restriction.

3. It really didn't do anything.

As many of us have discovered, the 3.4 has a lot of room for improvement with the intake system. If I was starting from scratch on a tight budget, I would do the following:

- elbow mod OR deckplate mod, not both
- Supra MAFS (if I could get one cheap)
- ISR mod
- taper-bore the TB

I tend to lean towards the elbow mod over the deckplate mod because it draws air from the fender instead of under the hood. However, once you are under way I am sure the IAT difference is minimal. The elbow mod in conjunction with the ISR mod is also quieter for those that car. With the deckplate open and the ISR mod, the intake just plane screams. It actually woke my wife up on trips when I floored it.

Now it doesn't matter for me because all you can hear is a loud whine followed by exhaust sound.

bamachem

why spend $10 on a deckplate and then install it when you can just leave the top door of your filter box open and accomplish the same exact thing?

rimpainter.com

I think part of the reason Andy is that you don't get the ram-air effect as with the deckplate mod or the cooler air as with the elbow mod. Also, half of the tabs that secure the filter in place are now gone. I know people have “solved” that problem by putting clamps in place though. I want to get a IAT probe (or grab the signal going to the ECU) and test the various configurations. I bet the results would be interesting!

midiwall

Gadget says a lot of things, some are based on facts and measureable results, some are opinions. Some of his feelings have even changed over the years - and he hasn't gone back to update the website across time.

That said...

It has been proven time and time again that the 3.4L engine with the stock airbox is starved for air. The implementation on the T100 may be different, but on the Tacoma and 4Runner opening up the airbox ("the Deckplate Mod") gives a real increase of about 6hp depending on your elevation. I have my dyno charts on CD somewhere.

The K&N filter is notorious for letting in dirt, a big problem if your truck spends time off of the pavement. Using K&N's "pre-filter" (much like a sock) helps, but in the end it's easier to just drop a good filter into the sotck airbox (like an Amsoil) and do the deckplate mode.

The "ISR mod" is the net equivilent of the replacement intake tubes (e.g., Airaid). It will _NOT_ increase horsepower, it _WILL_ increase throttle response.