Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I did not have the T stat out, but did replace it for the first time when I did the T chain about a year ago.

Adding to the dumb questions.....is there an easy way to tell if it's upside down?

Wouldn't it being upside down cause more noticable harm over the past year, or would it still work, albeit opening more slowly as heat finally reached it (from the metail of the T stat housing, instead of from direct contact with coolant)?

Any recoimmendations on where I have my autometer sensor on the top hose? I thought having it at the top of the hose would best avoid any pooling of coolant on it (corrosion) - does it matter?

Thanks!

xxxtreme22r

yeah if it were upside down you woulda known it by now, so no worries there. Did you burp the system with the heater on? You should have.

Top hose between the t-stat and rad is right I believe.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I did not have the heater on - dangit!

Will try tonight.

Did some reading just now online and appears that you can do some long term harm to your engine with an upside down T stat.

For the sensor - my question is, "do i mount the sender on the top of the (top radiator) hose (the part of the hose that's closest to the hood), instead of the side or bottom? Coolant doesn't really flow FULLY through that top hose when it returns to the radiator right? It waterfalls down (so mounting on side/bottom of hose may be better?)....

Thanks!!

GranVille-4crawler

a narrow band a/f gauge is useless. get a wideband otherwise your just pulling power. they run about 200$. unless your planning on doing anykind of ecu tuning i would just scrap the a/f and replace it with a volt meter or something of the likes.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I find my narrow-band A/F meter (off the stock O2 sensor) is very handy. Lets me see the same signal the ECU is getting and can see that the sensor is working properly. Also find it handy (in conjunction with the vacuum gauge) in certain driving conditions like at higher elevations and on long, shallow grades were you might have a choice of what gear to use. That is, you can see under what conditions the ECU remains in closed loop mode vs. switching to open loop (full rich) mode. Assuming that closed loop results in more efficient operation, I can use that information to pick a gear and throttle setting that keeps the engine in closed loop mode. And, since my '85 ECU is not really tunable, there is not a lot I could do with having more accurate data. I have run the narrow band meter for over 10 years now and am happy with the decision to add it.

Not saying a wide-band sensor is not worth it. It would be nice having a "2nd opinion" on the ECU's sensor to see if that sensor is working right or not.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

OK, I'm back because I'm again stymied on the cooling system's behavior.

Been driving it this week (about 100 miles or so since I repaired the coolant pipe leak), and the autometer gauge has been slowly creeping up to, and then staying, right at 180 when driving. Still had been seeing a lot of pressure in the upper hose during this time.

Today, I did some errands around town before jumping on the freeway to go to work. During warm up, it slowly got to 180 as it has been this past week. But THEN, when I got on the freeway (just for a few miles), it started creeping higher - up to 215-230 or so. The whole time my OEM dash gauge needle was right in the middle of "normal". I pulled over, and checked it out:
- Zero pressure in upper hose
- No leaks
- Radiator and top hose were hot to the touch
- Radiator had no pressure, and was full of coolant up to the base of the neck (normal)
- No leaks!! (I know, I have this in here twice)
- oh, and I put the heater on full during this to see if that would change anything - no.

I drove it home immediately, carefully watching the gauge - it didn't go any higher than 230.

So, what's going on here? My guess is that the T stat was opened but then closed (which explains why coolant was no longer coming down the top hose into the radiator?). This is driving me crazy - I really just want to have a normal running truck and not worry about it overheating. It's also scary how out of sync the OEM gauge is, given that it indicated "normal" during this whole ordeal....

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

for knowledge

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Wednesday morning bump

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Anyone? truck's still parked in front of my house and misses driving....

mt_goat

22re? Temp over shoot is common with the 22re, 4crawler has a good write-up on that. They need a dual t-stat. More on that here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51686282

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Yup, 22RE. Thanks Goat - been reading the other post you chimed in on and now on 4crawlers site reading up. That sounds like a cool trick, drilling holes! I'll see if that works, or I may just bite the bullet and get the dual stage. Either way I should test my current T stat to see if it's opening properly.

Thanks again!