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3.4 swap, tach fix?

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Old 10-14-2006, 04:08 AM
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3.4 swap, tach fix?

Okay, I have literally searched all night for some info on this and cant find anything. I bought an ors kit, and in the instructions it says you can solder in a resistor to fix the tach to read correctly and that the info can be found on here or pirated4x4.
Does any body have the info on how to do this? I have looked over both sites and cant find a thing!
Thanks for the help.
Brian
Old 10-14-2006, 06:43 AM
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Bajatoy, check these picks from Mt. Goat's thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/3-4-swap-started-82145/ for great write ups and pics.

These two may help:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2443...42310107egMiRf

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2124...42310107gMlKlu

All that I have read has said to use a 1/4 Watt 10K Ohm resistor, but Fallman told me that he chose to use a 1/2 Watt 10K Ohm.

Good luck with yours -I'm doing mine today!
Old 10-14-2006, 11:55 PM
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thanks, that helped out a lot.
Let me know how your tach fix went.
Fairly easy?
Thanks again
Brian
Old 10-15-2006, 12:42 AM
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sounds stupid, but I am and electrical idiot and hate the idea of doing this off of pictures. Is there a thread that tells where to solder in the resistor? The thread explaining why was awsome, I enjoyed that. 4x4 wire said they where going to do a write up on it in there tech section but I cant find it.
Thanks
Brian
Old 10-15-2006, 07:31 AM
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Mine went great! I'll have to wait to test it when I get the truck running, again, though. The only part I was unsure of was opening the instrument cluster. I thought that the speedo and tach faces were part of the surround, but Mt. Goat's picture showed that it wasn't, so off the cover came.

I unscrewed the tach from the back, and carefully removed it. Watch out here, as the face of the guage will fingerprint very easily. I soldered my resistor across the connections shown in Mt. Goat's pic. The new resistor bridges the same connections as the original on the other side of the board (new one is lower value, thus least resistance) I suppose that you could remove that board and replace the original resistor, but that would expose the mechanism of the to potential damage in the process.

Despite my caution, I ended up smudging some skin oil from a knuckle on the face of my guage, and then went nuts trying to clean it! I tried some mild cleaners, but they all left streaks on the face. For lack of any other ideas, I finally wet my microfiber lens cloth with my tongue, and that finally cleaned the face back to its proper flat black!

It is now back together, and re-installed in the dash of my truck.

Last edited by breknraj; 10-16-2006 at 03:55 AM.
Old 10-15-2006, 08:50 AM
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I used the pirate4x4.com FAQ for mine, i think it was on the third page.

I didn't know the wattage of my resistor, it is a 10k ohm
Old 10-16-2006, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by breknraj
The new resistor bridges the same connections as the original on the other side of the board (new one is lower value, thus least resistance) I suppose that you could remove that board and replace the original resistor, but that would expose the mechanism of the to potential damage in the process.
You don't want to remove the original resistor, that would change the overall resistance. Someone figured it out already what works so just go with it, mine works great now.



Last edited by mt_goat; 10-16-2006 at 08:49 AM.
Old 10-16-2006, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mudbutt
I used the pirate4x4.com FAQ for mine, i think it was on the third page.

I didn't know the wattage of my resistor, it is a 10k ohm
Yeah that's where I got my info too, here at the bottom of page 3 (it used to be on page 4):
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=459180&page=3

Last edited by mt_goat; 10-16-2006 at 09:21 AM.
Old 10-16-2006, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Bajatoy
sounds stupid, but I am and electrical idiot and hate the idea of doing this off of pictures. Is there a thread that tells where to solder in the resistor? The thread explaining why was awsome, I enjoyed that. 4x4 wire said they where going to do a write up on it in there tech section but I cant find it.
Thanks
Brian
It is best to use a small pointed tip soldering iron and thin solder, like .032 diameter 60/40 Rosin core (no bigger than .050 dia) With the delicate board and small trace lines you don't want a big honken soldering gun with 200 watts. You'll have to cut and bend the leads on the resistor short enough to fit in place. Only heat the points on the board enough to melt the solder that's there and with tweezers stick the resistor wire into the puddle, then after you have both ends in place add just a little more solder to secure it good, but don't go hog wild with the solder or heat.

Last edited by mt_goat; 10-16-2006 at 09:20 AM.
Old 10-17-2006, 06:42 AM
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[QUOTE=mt_goat;1014868]You don't want to remove the original resistor, that would change the overall resistance. Someone figured it out already what works so just go with it, mine works great now.


I must have missed or forgotten reading that anywhere, but I just added the 10K to the back of mine, as is. I didn't want to open up the mechanism, and I figured that this had obviously worked for other folks, so why mess with success. Yours are the best pics I've seen of the mod, IMO, Mt. Goat, so I didn't even bother to take any of mine.
Old 10-17-2006, 07:45 AM
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cool, thanks for the help.
I will post up some pics when I start my swap too. Wont be for a couple of weeks though, still working 6 12 hours day for another couple of weeks! I dont recomend it.
Any way, 3.4 going into a 94 ext cab 4x4 that will now be 2 wheel drive!!!!!
T-100 tranny and the works.
Thanks again
Brian
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