At what time horizon would you justify the expense of regearing twice?
#1
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At what time horizon would you justify the expense of regearing twice?
My tires are getting pretty worn, I have 31s right now but I want to get 33x10.50s when the time comes. These probably have another 8 to 12 months left at the rate I'm racking up miles these days.
As sluggish as it is with 4.10s and 31s I know that I can't stand to run 33s on the stock gears.
In the future I will likely have a SAS and want to run 35s or 37s. How far off will that be? Not sure, probably 3-5 years.
So, do you think it's worth it to go ahead and do 4.88s now and just pay to have the gears changed in the rear axle again later down the road.
My most recent thought was get a complete diff with an ARB and 4.88s now, and just gears for the ifs front. Run that with 33's for now and figure that 3-5 years is long enough to make it not a waste of money. Because I'll still be able to use the locker, and the front IFS stuff I could possibly sell to recoup some of the cost, and the solid axle will be a new expense anyway.
As sluggish as it is with 4.10s and 31s I know that I can't stand to run 33s on the stock gears.
In the future I will likely have a SAS and want to run 35s or 37s. How far off will that be? Not sure, probably 3-5 years.
So, do you think it's worth it to go ahead and do 4.88s now and just pay to have the gears changed in the rear axle again later down the road.
My most recent thought was get a complete diff with an ARB and 4.88s now, and just gears for the ifs front. Run that with 33's for now and figure that 3-5 years is long enough to make it not a waste of money. Because I'll still be able to use the locker, and the front IFS stuff I could possibly sell to recoup some of the cost, and the solid axle will be a new expense anyway.
Last edited by bob200587; 04-21-2012 at 09:19 AM.
#3
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The 4:88 gears will work with 31" to 35" tires with about 200-300 RPM difference between sizes meaning 31" tires will run 200-300 RPM higher, 33" at about Stock RPM, and 35" will run 200-300 RPM Lower. Years ago they had published a chart in magazines that showed all this and the chart was baselined on stock gears and tires at 60MPH. There is a math formula that you can use to calculate everything. The 4:88 gears won't work on 37" tires. Oh-the above is based on a stock pickup truck with a 4 cylinder motor.
#4
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The 4:88 gears will work with 31" to 35" tires with about 200-300 RPM difference between sizes meaning 31" tires will run 200-300 RPM higher, 33" at about Stock RPM, and 35" will run 200-300 RPM Lower. Years ago they had published a chart in magazines that showed all this and the chart was baselined on stock gears and tires at 60MPH. There is a math formula that you can use to calculate everything. The 4:88 gears won't work on 37" tires. Oh-the above is based on a stock pickup truck with a 4 cylinder motor.
4.88's would be screaming high at highway speeds with 31's
Most of the magazines have no idea what they're talking about when it comes to Toyotas.
#5
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31s and 4.10s already runs at about 3200 rpm in 5th gear at ~70 mph
Most of the magazines have no idea what they're talking about when it comes to Toyotas.
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Didn't mean to focus on V6 there, was just trying to paint a picture. The 22re can run a little higher rpms without affecting mpg as much. But the 22re and 3.0 are pretty close as far as rpms and mpgs. And you still want to be just under 3K when cruising at your favorite highway speed. It is a big difference in milage for 4 and 6cyl, engines.
#7
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The charts I am talking about were in various magazines such as Off-Road and some special issue publications featuring Toyotas in the mid 1980's. My truck has 4:88 gears and I run 31" or 33" tires. At 65 miles per hour I run 3000 RPM on the 31" tires and I run about 2750-2800 RPM on the 33" tires at the same speed. If you look at a 22R engine power band in a stock geared / stock tired pickup truck you will see 2800 RPM at 60 MPH is what you typically see. Again, there are math formulas that you can use to calculate your specfic tire size and gear ratios in order to match your engines particular power band. I have a twin Weber carb / full race / stroked 4 cylinder motor and I get about 19-21 miles per gallon on the highway with the 31" tires.
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#9
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All of the ratio talk aside, the original question is, should I spend the money to go to 4.88s and then in 5 years or so spend more to go to 5.29s?
#10
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People on this forum are pretty good at not spending your money for you. So I doubt someones going to tell you to re-gear twice. But we will give you lots of advice to make your decision.
I'm a big fan of doing it once, and doing it right. So if it was me having plans for 35s, I would leave the truck as is untill I can reach that goal. Meaning don't put on the 33s, save your coin and put it towards the 35s. Reaching your goal in a bunch of little steps is always more expensive. I think it comes down to how much your willing to spend. Maybe start a swear jar and then watch rap videos?
Another option is sell your current runner and buy one that is already modded how you want.
If you do the re-gear yourself it will save big coin. There are plenty of threads on how to do it. Buy the right tools and it will cost you less than paying someone else to do it. Even if you just pull the diffs out and bring them to a shop that will cut back on the cost a lot. And watch the local classifieds for good deals. Right now up here in canuck-ville, theres 2 arb lockers, compressor, all nessacary mounting/wiring, onboard air, and 5.29 gears for an 8'rear and SA front, for $2300. All brand new and in box. The best deals always start with the words "divorce sale"
I'm a big fan of doing it once, and doing it right. So if it was me having plans for 35s, I would leave the truck as is untill I can reach that goal. Meaning don't put on the 33s, save your coin and put it towards the 35s. Reaching your goal in a bunch of little steps is always more expensive. I think it comes down to how much your willing to spend. Maybe start a swear jar and then watch rap videos?
Another option is sell your current runner and buy one that is already modded how you want.
If you do the re-gear yourself it will save big coin. There are plenty of threads on how to do it. Buy the right tools and it will cost you less than paying someone else to do it. Even if you just pull the diffs out and bring them to a shop that will cut back on the cost a lot. And watch the local classifieds for good deals. Right now up here in canuck-ville, theres 2 arb lockers, compressor, all nessacary mounting/wiring, onboard air, and 5.29 gears for an 8'rear and SA front, for $2300. All brand new and in box. The best deals always start with the words "divorce sale"
#12
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Thread Starter
People on this forum are pretty good at not spending your money for you. So I doubt someones going to tell you to re-gear twice. But we will give you lots of advice to make your decision.
I'm a big fan of doing it once, and doing it right. So if it was me having plans for 35s, I would leave the truck as is untill I can reach that goal. Meaning don't put on the 33s, save your coin and put it towards the 35s. Reaching your goal in a bunch of little steps is always more expensive. I think it comes down to how much your willing to spend. Maybe start a swear jar and then watch rap videos?
That would be nice, but I'm going to need tires and I want to be able to wheel during the next 5 or so years before I get to SAS.
Another option is sell your current runner and buy one that is already modded how you want.
Note my avatar. Dad bought it new, it's staying in the family.
If you do the re-gear yourself it will save big coin. There are plenty of threads on how to do it. Buy the right tools and it will cost you less than paying someone else to do it. Even if you just pull the diffs out and bring them to a shop that will cut back on the cost a lot. And watch the local classifieds for good deals. Right now up here in canuck-ville, theres 2 arb lockers, compressor, all nessacary mounting/wiring, onboard air, and 5.29 gears for an 8'rear and SA front, for $2300. All brand new and in box. The best deals always start with the words "divorce sale"
I'm a big fan of doing it once, and doing it right. So if it was me having plans for 35s, I would leave the truck as is untill I can reach that goal. Meaning don't put on the 33s, save your coin and put it towards the 35s. Reaching your goal in a bunch of little steps is always more expensive. I think it comes down to how much your willing to spend. Maybe start a swear jar and then watch rap videos?
That would be nice, but I'm going to need tires and I want to be able to wheel during the next 5 or so years before I get to SAS.
Another option is sell your current runner and buy one that is already modded how you want.
Note my avatar. Dad bought it new, it's staying in the family.
If you do the re-gear yourself it will save big coin. There are plenty of threads on how to do it. Buy the right tools and it will cost you less than paying someone else to do it. Even if you just pull the diffs out and bring them to a shop that will cut back on the cost a lot. And watch the local classifieds for good deals. Right now up here in canuck-ville, theres 2 arb lockers, compressor, all nessacary mounting/wiring, onboard air, and 5.29 gears for an 8'rear and SA front, for $2300. All brand new and in box. The best deals always start with the words "divorce sale"
Well, I did a terrible job formatting that response, but I'm too lazy to fix it.
Last edited by bob200587; 04-22-2012 at 11:44 AM.
#13
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4.88s and 39.5s was fine for my 85 and it would do 70 mph on the highway easy.
And you were probably really low rpms on the freeway. Not gonna be goin 70 up any hills in 5th, like with 35's and 5.29's.
bob200587
I would wait for sure. Theres no reseon to do it twice. And that will hit you when your under your rig pulling your diffs, "I have to do this again in a few years"
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 04-22-2012 at 02:17 PM.
#15
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Ive ran 5.29s an 33x12.5 tires on my truck for awhile drove from OKC, OK to KC, MO with no problems. My truck will do 90 with that set up. Dont have an rpm gauge... she screams though. An thats with the 22r and g52 tranny.
But cost effective to switch twice is up to you. But like nothingbetter said. I'd say why spend extra money twice? unless your gonna buy separate diffs an resell your old ones.
But cost effective to switch twice is up to you. But like nothingbetter said. I'd say why spend extra money twice? unless your gonna buy separate diffs an resell your old ones.
#16
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#17
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I guess I'm looking at:
$1400 for a complete diff with ARB and either 4.88s or 5.29s
$200 for the ARB compressor
$200 for front ring and pinion
??? for the front install
Man, why does everything have to be so expensive?
$1400 for a complete diff with ARB and either 4.88s or 5.29s
$200 for the ARB compressor
$200 for front ring and pinion
??? for the front install
Man, why does everything have to be so expensive?
#18
Registered User
I bought front an rear 5.29s wit arb lockers used for 1800.... craigslist.. changed myself. an Im no mechanic... I can give ya the forms I looked at for that. Did the rear in a hotel parkin lit in OK. Bought a CO2 tank for 40 bucks an some copper lines for like 10 at lowe's.
Used fitting from my work along wit a couple gauges an shut off valves. then you can buy the switchs online for 100. An you have instant lockers with the flip of a switch.
Something to consider...
Used fitting from my work along wit a couple gauges an shut off valves. then you can buy the switchs online for 100. An you have instant lockers with the flip of a switch.
Something to consider...
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