Spray paint or buy a gun?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Spray paint or buy a gun?
Alright, so this weekend ima tackle painting my door back to black. Long story short, my friend in his 4runner slid into mine, smoked my old door. Got a new one, but it was red. Now since summer is rolling around, i rather my truck all one color haha. So im gonna paint it now, but i have no idea what to do.
Here are my choices
1- Buy paint in aerosol can, try to get just maybe a basic black, and get some clear coat to.
2- Go to this autopart shop and get them to mix paint for me and they also can put it in a aerosol can.
3- buy this cheap spray gun for 40$ and go to the same automotive store and buy paint from them to. And spray away using my little aircompressor.
Also, whats the best way to color match it?, im not looking for a perfect repair, just something that no one will notice unless they try hard to look.
Does anyone have any sites that have good walkthrus?
Does this site seem good to follow?
http://www.ehow.com/how_2062197_spra...-like-pro.html
then again its only a door so i can see me screwing it up that bad
Here are my choices
1- Buy paint in aerosol can, try to get just maybe a basic black, and get some clear coat to.
2- Go to this autopart shop and get them to mix paint for me and they also can put it in a aerosol can.
3- buy this cheap spray gun for 40$ and go to the same automotive store and buy paint from them to. And spray away using my little aircompressor.
Also, whats the best way to color match it?, im not looking for a perfect repair, just something that no one will notice unless they try hard to look.
Does anyone have any sites that have good walkthrus?
Does this site seem good to follow?
http://www.ehow.com/how_2062197_spra...-like-pro.html
then again its only a door so i can see me screwing it up that bad
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
really depends on your budget and how you drive. I personally like a good job that will last, but if you are going to be denting and scraping, then i would just hit up the spray can
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
also, what does this "cfm" mean
i have a feeling if i get the 50$ one, my air compressor wont be able to power it.
but the 20$ one, uses 2.5 compared to 8.5 to 12.0 CFM air consumption.
i have a feeling if i get the 50$ one, my air compressor wont be able to power it.
but the 20$ one, uses 2.5 compared to 8.5 to 12.0 CFM air consumption.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
well, i dont do any real hardcore 4x4in, nothing that would damange my body right.
But, i really want to get a paint gun, so i can learn and then redo my entire truck this summer with my uncle.
I think il gopick up the airgun after school tomorrow, and get the paint next weekend.
But, i really want to get a paint gun, so i can learn and then redo my entire truck this summer with my uncle.
I think il gopick up the airgun after school tomorrow, and get the paint next weekend.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
hmm, i wonder if it has a big difference?
seeing hows its just a door and want to get it black again, maybe i can squeeze by with the 20$ one
seeing hows its just a door and want to get it black again, maybe i can squeeze by with the 20$ one
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
well i found out my air compressor runs at 2.7cfm at 90psi and 5 cfm at 50psi
the cheapest gun will run, but its just called "mini-spray gun"
there is one for 60$ and is HVLP PAINT GUN
• Operation pressure: 30 to 43 PSI
• Avg. air consumption: 4 CFM @ 90 PSI
• Anodized aluminum gun body
• Stainless steel needle & 1.4 mm nozzle
• 600 cc gravity feed nylon cup
• Includes pressure gauge
the cheapest gun will run, but its just called "mini-spray gun"
there is one for 60$ and is HVLP PAINT GUN
• Operation pressure: 30 to 43 PSI
• Avg. air consumption: 4 CFM @ 90 PSI
• Anodized aluminum gun body
• Stainless steel needle & 1.4 mm nozzle
• 600 cc gravity feed nylon cup
• Includes pressure gauge
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i used a $15 gun from harbor freight, and it worked great. go to your local auto paint supply (wherever macco) gets theres, and you can get industrial trailer paint in select colors for about $35 a gallon, and works great. it needs a little reducer to get a good spray, and use a little extra hardener. i did on my 1st gen and it turned out great, alot better than rattlecan.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
i got a huuuge 3 gun 75 peice set from costco for like 75 bucks.. has few diff gun sizes... i havent used it yet.. i also have a one from power fist princess auto that i havent used... the cfm is the required air they use from your compressor.. they need apretty big one as they need a constant supply unless you just paint in small busrts!
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
well, with the whole aircompressor issue i think the "HVLP" is the way to go
High volume, low pressure. Its interesting, but i just need to find out how to clean the gun after im done using it, and how to lay the clear coat.
High volume, low pressure. Its interesting, but i just need to find out how to clean the gun after im done using it, and how to lay the clear coat.
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check out HarborFreighttools.com first.. they've got cheap stuff but you'd be surprised how good their stuff is.. I mean its not SNAP ON but its good stuff..
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the hplv gun will decrease your overspray, getting the same coverage w/less paint.
with mixing, you have your paint, reducer, and hardener. different paints require different mixtures. if the paint supply says "already reduced" add like 1 part more. and i had a little more hardener the keep the scratches down.
this was done with a HF $15 gun, and the industrial trailer/tractor paint.
with mixing, you have your paint, reducer, and hardener. different paints require different mixtures. if the paint supply says "already reduced" add like 1 part more. and i had a little more hardener the keep the scratches down.
this was done with a HF $15 gun, and the industrial trailer/tractor paint.
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ohh, alright.
So, when i buy my paint i should just ask them what the paint specs are?
Anyone know a general idea how much paint should cost, with clear coat, reduced and hardener?
im only doing my door so i doubt il need to to much
So, when i buy my paint i should just ask them what the paint specs are?
Anyone know a general idea how much paint should cost, with clear coat, reduced and hardener?
im only doing my door so i doubt il need to to much
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: indiana
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
when using a paint gun the air compressor is the most important part. it is hard to get consistent performance when the pressure is all over the place. your little compressor will never be able to keep up doing the whole truck and it might struggle with the door which shouldn't cause too much trouble being a solid color. the biggest problem for you is going to be when you spray the clear. it needs to be layed down all at once so no bursts. the variable pressure is going to make it hard to keep from getting runs. also check the needle size of the gun, it should be 1.3 up to 2. anything smaller will take for ever and anything on the bigger side will throw out a lot of material and be harder control. the 1.4 needle is a good all around needle size. as for paint PPG, DuPont, Sikkens are some of the most reputible with the best products but just about anything will work. be sure to stay within the same paint system as mixing and matching can cause problems. there is also water based paint that is very good. as for mixing get a container from where you get your paint that has ratios printed on it. follow the recommendations of the manufacturer and match the reducer to the temp you are going to spray in. add additional reducer depending on your gun and spraying environment but the more reduced the more coats it will take and more likely to run. dont over reduce the clear or it will run all over the place. i wouldn't recommend adding additional hardener as it can result in failure of the clear coat. as for cleaning the gun use paint thinner and tear the gun completely apart, if clear is left in it it can hardened and ruin the gun. you will also need to clean the gun after spraying the base coat before spraying the clear. if you use water based paint all you need to use for clean up is water. there should be a pressure regulator on your gun (at the back) and a knob that controls the fan pattern (near the trigger). when you spray you want the widest fan pattern and go for a 75% overlap. the clear should look wet and smooth but dont over do it or it will run. this is also where having the correct reducer and hardener ratio is important as it can cause dry spray that will give your finished product a grainy look/texture.