Front Diff Drop Spacers: Pro’s & Con’s ?

Location Scout · 08-18-2006, 03:17 PM

Tapping the collective Yota minds, I have finally gotten around to lifting my 3rd Gen 4Runner (SAW coilovers in front & OME springs, shocks in the rear) and after the fact learned about front diff drop spacers and their function. I read on FabTech’s website that they do NOT recommend lifting the front more than 1 ½” due to differential/CV wear/breakage and I’m now sitting 2 ½”– 3” higher than before. I am a bit bummed that the shop that did the install said nothing or knew nothing of this potential issue. I’ve found some good info in the archives here on YotaTech.com and have made some calls to shops in my area only to be more confused than when I started.

One local shop said there is no drop spacer available for anything under 4 to 6” and that on my 4Runner, the skid plate & other steering mechanisms would get in the way of a drop spacer. Another shop said he’s done a couple installs for customers who obtained them somewhere else but that he didn’t have enough info to make a judgment one way or another. He said there’s pro’s & con’s to them but would not elaborate.

I know Sonoran Steel has a nice drop spacer available, and in theory makes sense…
but how critical is it on a truck with a 3” lift? How can professional installers NOT know this?

Thanks in advance,

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Tacoclimber · 08-18-2006, 03:53 PM

Two words: cheap insurance. It's definitely worth it, especially if you plan on wheeling the truck. To my knowledge, the only issue you would have is having to deal with the rear skid plate mounting holes being slightly off. There are a variety of ways to deal with this issue, none of them really all that difficult. I highly recommend getting the diff drop. The price vs. protection from blown cv joints is well worth it. For the record, I have a 3" susp. lift on my Tacoma, with a diff drop, have wheeled it regularly and have no cv issues to date. Hope that helps, and welcome to YT!

wjwerdna · 08-18-2006, 04:15 PM

i second that, i see the diff drop as being pretty neccessary, it makes a good amount of difference for how inexpensive it is. The reason others said nothing was available for under 4-6 was because they probably were thinking of a complete bracket lift/drop for the front end, the spacers are just that, spacers

mikes350 · 08-18-2006, 04:31 PM

i'll third that also , i've just made up a set of 1 1/4 diff drop spacers out of some steel that was kickin around, just installed bj spacers and have noticed the cv boots are starting to tear , so i'm thinking this should solve it ,

4Crawler · 08-18-2006, 05:21 PM

Yes, most folks find they help reduce the angles on the CV joints and boots. Basically reduces the angles of a 3" lift closer to what you would see with a 2" lift:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml

Also helps prolong CV boot life if you don't have manual front hubs.

Firefightertaco · 08-18-2006, 05:46 PM

the diff drop is real easy and u should probly be able to do it your self, it just two bolts after u get the skid plate off then u use two longer bolts from the diff drop kit to put in your skidplate because of the cleance needed for the skidplate and the diff. i got mine off of www.toyteclifts.com the were it was a lot cheaper than 4crawler and the toytec kit includes every thing u need.

wjwerdna · 08-18-2006, 05:59 PM

looks like the same kit from 4crawler is actually $3 cheaper

4Crawler · 08-18-2006, 06:18 PM

If you get the Toytec drop kit with the rest of the lift, then you save a few $, but if you order it separately, they nail you for $10 shipping. The 4Crawler kit includes free shipping, so works best if you are getting it to add onto an existing lift.

This is the kind of mod. that is good to do if you experience problems due to the front end lift you have. Some typical situations that I have encountered are CV joint binding at full droop (usually on 2nd gen 4Runners/pickups) and frequently torn CV boots (on 3rd gen/Tacomas). If these sorts of issues are encountered, then by all means, lower the front diff. One customer decided that it would be easier that changing CV boots every 6 months. He installed the diff drop after changing boots for the 3rd time in one year. First boot falure he attributed to an old original boot, 2nd set he figured might have been a bad replacement boot, but after changing that, he lowered the diff and all has been fine since (several years now).

And, if you have no issues with your front end lift on your vehicle, then by all means, leave well enough alone. After all, if it ain't broke, don't fi it.

BajaTaco · 08-21-2006, 03:18 PM

My two cents on the diff drop (scroll down to last paragraph).

I think if you really need/want to have 3" of suspension lift it's probably a good idea. For 2.5" or less, (or maybe even 2.75", just keep an eye on the boots and see how they do) it's not necessary.

***midiwall*** · 08-21-2006, 05:17 PM

And... read through this thread to learn about doing this for very little money. It's what we know as the "Ace Hardware Diff Drop":

http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=15530

That'll actually end up pointing you to here:
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=20680

And you'll wanna head towards the bottom, message #18

**rocket** · 08-21-2006, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BajaTaco

My two cents on the diff drop (scroll down to last paragraph).

I think if you really need/want to have 3" of suspension lift it's probably a good idea. For 2.5" or less, (or maybe even 2.75", just keep an eye on the boots and see how they do) it's not necessary.

08-18-2006, 03:53 PM	#2 (permalink)
Tacoclimber Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ Posts: 3,713	Two words: cheap insurance. It's definitely worth it, especially if you plan on wheeling the truck. To my knowledge, the only issue you would have is having to deal with the rear skid plate mounting holes being slightly off. There are a variety of ways to deal with this issue, none of them really all that difficult. I highly recommend getting the diff drop. The price vs. protection from blown cv joints is well worth it. For the record, I have a 3" susp. lift on my Tacoma, with a diff drop, have wheeled it regularly and have no cv issues to date. Hope that helps, and welcome to YT! __________________ CJ ...<>< 03 DC TRD Tacoma 4wd with a bunch of junk. SOLD 1964 Chevy Biscayne, 230 I6, lowered, satin black, old-school legit. Just wheel the stupid thing!!! But do it responsibly, ok? My band: Road Worn Saints

08-18-2006, 04:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
wjwerdna Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,866	i second that, i see the diff drop as being pretty neccessary, it makes a good amount of difference for how inexpensive it is. The reason others said nothing was available for under 4-6 was because they probably were thinking of a complete bracket lift/drop for the front end, the spacers are just that, spacers __________________ Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: ??? Nothing?

08-18-2006, 04:31 PM	#4 (permalink)
mikes350 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Revelstoke B.C Posts: 28	i'll third that also , i've just made up a set of 1 1/4 diff drop spacers out of some steel that was kickin around, just installed bj spacers and have noticed the cv boots are starting to tear , so i'm thinking this should solve it , __________________ 93 4runner , OME susp. , sdori bj spacers , engnbldr cam ,mt/r's, aisin hubs , , i've been busy 85 4Runner , rusty and busty , now sold

08-18-2006, 05:21 PM	#5 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,832	Yes, most folks find they help reduce the angles on the CV joints and boots. Basically reduces the angles of a 3" lift closer to what you would see with a 2" lift: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml Also helps prolong CV boot life if you don't have manual front hubs. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

08-18-2006, 05:46 PM	#6 (permalink)
Firefightertaco Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Mooresville, NC Posts: 221	the diff drop is real easy and u should probly be able to do it your self, it just two bolts after u get the skid plate off then u use two longer bolts from the diff drop kit to put in your skidplate because of the cleance needed for the skidplate and the diff. i got mine off of www.toyteclifts.com the were it was a lot cheaper than 4crawler and the toytec kit includes every thing u need. __________________ JP 2003 Tacoma White TRD E-Locker, 3" toytec lift, 2" RB BL 10,500 milemarker, 32/12.50 BFG MT on black wheels UWS black toolbox, and working on more. 2007 fj cruser (moms) 86 4runner 22re auto 3" leafs 32bfg mts

08-18-2006, 05:59 PM	#7 (permalink)
wjwerdna Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,866	looks like the same kit from 4crawler is actually $3 cheaper __________________ Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: ??? Nothing?

08-18-2006, 06:18 PM	#8 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,832	If you get the Toytec drop kit with the rest of the lift, then you save a few $, but if you order it separately, they nail you for $10 shipping. The 4Crawler kit includes free shipping, so works best if you are getting it to add onto an existing lift. This is the kind of mod. that is good to do if you experience problems due to the front end lift you have. Some typical situations that I have encountered are CV joint binding at full droop (usually on 2nd gen 4Runners/pickups) and frequently torn CV boots (on 3rd gen/Tacomas). If these sorts of issues are encountered, then by all means, lower the front diff. One customer decided that it would be easier that changing CV boots every 6 months. He installed the diff drop after changing boots for the 3rd time in one year. First boot falure he attributed to an old original boot, 2nd set he figured might have been a bad replacement boot, but after changing that, he lowered the diff and all has been fine since (several years now). And, if you have no issues with your front end lift on your vehicle, then by all means, leave well enough alone. After all, if it ain't broke, don't fi it. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club Last edited by 4Crawler; 08-21-2006 at 07:47 PM.

08-21-2006, 03:18 PM	#9 (permalink)
BajaTaco Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Prescott, AZ Posts: 644	My two cents on the diff drop (scroll down to last paragraph). I think if you really need/want to have 3" of suspension lift it's probably a good idea. For 2.5" or less, (or maybe even 2.75", just keep an eye on the boots and see how they do) it's not necessary. __________________ Chris Marzonie BAJATACO.COM Toyota light expedition vehicle Adventure reports Lots of Photos OVERLAND JOURNAL North America's first vehicle-dependent expedition magazine

08-21-2006, 05:17 PM	#10 (permalink)
*midiwall* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Seattleish, WA Posts: 9,078	And... read through this thread to learn about doing this for very little money. It's what we know as the "Ace Hardware Diff Drop": http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=15530 That'll actually end up pointing you to here: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=20680 And you'll wanna head towards the bottom, message #18 __________________ ~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams

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