pwd

1995 Pick-up ext cab 4x4
3.0 V6 5-speed
225000 Km

So yesterday morning I was on my way and I had to slam them brakes. I Noticed the pedal went further down then it usually does, so I checked it again and I had to push down to almost the floor to get any stopping going on. Needless to say, I was quite angry. So I take the plunge and bring it to a shop to have them look at it since I figured there had to be a leak somewhere. I get the call this morning with the estimate. So aparently one of the lines ruptured. They said the brake lines on the Toyota trucks aren't designed very well and that I should have them all replaced because they will all go eventually. They also said that because of the way the Toyota's are setup, its more difficult to get to all the fittings,lines and proportion (valves?) etc.. so it could take 10 hours of labour +/- . As I was already aware, they also said that I need the front rotors and pads done too. So with the 10 hours labour and parts (lines, fittings, rotors, pads), it would cost me $1478.65.

I agree that I should get everything done, especially all the lines at once, but I just am not sure about the prices and if the lines are actually that hard to replace.

I have already been blowing money at my Truck (for re-paint,re-cored rad,parking brake + cable, and a few other things that add up to about $2600). My plan is to call around and get estimates on just replacing every brake line + fitting, and consider doing the front brakes myself sometime before winter. For those who have, how much did you pay to get all brake lines replaced?

I talked to my dad today (the one who bought the truck (and surprised me with it!!!)) and told him about this and he is gonna see what kind of prices he can get in his area. He even said, "get this done, and you should think about.... TRADING IT IN". I can't imagine getting rid of the truck since I've grown so attached to it even if I have been feeding it $100 bills just to keep it going. Comments?

bigt

ill gladly put 100 bucks a week into my truck..because it beats a car payment..I ALREADY OWN IT...and i learn how to fix things...

having something that is paid for is way better than a car payment period!
as far as the lines go is cheap and easy to do... shouldnt be more than a few hundred at a garage.. to do it yourself should take a sunday.. if you cant get at the lines avbove the gas tank run them somewhere eles and leave the old lines there.

pwd

So you say it shouldn't be more than a few hundread for all new brake lines? That, I could handle. Then I was thinking about buying a floor jack/stands and doing the front brakes myself which should save some money.

dirtoyboy

run very very far away from that mechanic...he's full of it....

Those lines arent that expensive from the dealer....just replace them yourself. It's really quite simple

CyMoN

X2 it should run you around 300$ to 400$ if you replaced everything MC, calipers and rear cylinders and rubber hoses if the metal lines are good then leave them be if they are bad the 3/16 brake lines are cheap.

bleeding the system is the biggest pain.
as for hours I replaced everything on a friends truck and it took me 5 hours.

if you decide to do them yourself PM me and I can help you with any questions you might have brakes are pretty easy I had a fear for many years when I was younger but after paying over a grand at a chain store I vowed to never pay some one else to work on my truck.

sethmcalister

you said you had your e-brake replaced? what did you have done and how much was it? mine's rusted to crap. i was thinking of getting a t-case ebrake if the prices were comparable.

pwd

Thanks for the info/suggestions people!

I would like to do the work myself, but I don't feel confident about doing the brake lines, I would actually rather someone else do the lines and fittings. The problem with mine is that they are rusted/corroded so I might as well replace all lines at once. However, the rotors, pads and possibly calipers I think I could do myself. Unfortunately for me, this is a long weekend and no stores are open today or tomorrow. SO on Tues I'm gonna call the Toyota stealership and a couple other places to get a price on just replacing the lines/fittings. Surely Toyota would know how to do the lines/fittings etc.. better/quicker than other places, thus costing less labour.

So I figure I'd be looking at $350 - 500, judging by your estimates and this towns high prices, for all new brake lines, fittings and (proportion vales?). I'll post here if I get some prices too.

CyMoN, I like your attitude to never pay someone else to work on your truck! That in mind, if I get this brake line stuff all fixed up from a garage for not too much, I will go to the store and buy my own floorjack/safety stands, then order some rotors/pads and take a weekend and start doing some of my own work! (And I'll probably pm you with a couple questions when I'm out in the rain trying to put everything back together) (never done any work on my truck except change oil/rotate tires).


@sethmcalister:

Ya, I had to have one of the cables replaced and here was the price breakdown:

Cable: $103.80 after tax (believe me, I called around and thats about what it cost at a few different places)
Labour: $65.00

Total After tax, $190.74
Keep in mind prices are probably higher here for that cable, but thats what I payed.

dirtoyboy

Replacing brake lines is just as easy (if NOT easier) than replacing calipers, rotors, pads...like you said you could probably do....

What is wrong with your prop valve? You can pick up good working used units for like 25-30 bucks....those long hard lines from the dealer are like maybe 20-25 each(?)

dont give up so easily man

new2fixn

agree with dirtoyboy, just replaced all the above (front only) and lines are easy...one tip when bending hard lines, i used the appropriate weed whacker nylon cord that fits the ID of hard lines so while bending the line wont kink or collapse AND you can pull the nylon out when you’re finished...

dirtoyboy

IF you buy the lines from the dealer (the long ones that go to the LPSV) they are pre-bent.......I would recommend going this route over bending yourself...just a lot easier...that is a great tip though NEW2fixn!

CyMoN

VERY GOOD IDEA ^^^^^

trbizwiz

As to rerouting around the bed, I just took mine off last week for some rust repair. It's not too big a deal either. If you have an impact hammer, just remove 8 nuts from the bed bolts, and 4 clips from the tail light harness, 3 screws from the gass cap flange and the gass cap of course. Then have a buddy help lift it off. It's not all that heavy, but very awkward. Then you have easy access to the brake lines and every thing else under there. maybe take off some rust and por 15 stuff. It will add an hour tops (if no nuts are rounded off, if so scrap that idea I spent 2 hrs cutting one of the grade 8 nuts off) well worth the extra accessability. Plus you dont have to jack up the rear and work under the truck.
In fact I think I better check my lines while mine is off. I will probably put energy suspension bushings on when it goes back on, mine were trashed. Master kit from their site is like $140 found the link off their ebay site.
Good luck.

Adam F

Not designed very well my left foot! That mechanic is a liar and a ripoff artist.

Go with these guy's advice and at least TRY to do the work yourself. Prebent lines from the dealer will make everything MUCH easier. ANd its not the much more expensive than off the shelf straight lines. Do the pricing and you'll see.

CyMoN

wow I was quoted 22$ for the cable at advanced auto and like 35$ or 40$ from napa

and 22$ for the pins that hold the cables in place I went to the u-Pull and got everything off of a truck for 15$ and it all looked to have been replaced in the last year.

the phone has become my best friend when looking for parts I will call every store in my area and get prices on what I am looking for and to not waste a trip into town if they don't have it in stock.

to replace the rear cable you are looking at most 20 min of work took me more time adjusting the cable then the install.i think I spent a total of 12 min.

I very strongly urge you and any other member too look at the sticky link I posted up in the 86 to 95 section for the fsm the second link has manuals you can copy.

if you don't mind me asking how much did the shop charge to replace the line?

trbizwiz

I just read a thread the other day either on here or toyota nation or pirate, and the guy used braided lines from summitt. i think they were like $25 each and the fittings to match toyota were like $5 each.There are no bending issues, and they have ends that adapt right to the toyota fittings. It would just be a plug and play change over.
As to bleeding the brakes i just did this tuesday, I am finishing up a chevy swap, and I just loosenes 1 oil bleeder on one wheel at a time. then I fit a 1/4 inch clear tube from the hardware store for $0.39 per foot x 7 feet over the bleeder, then I took the other end with me to the drivers door and dropped it in a bucket. I started the truck and pumped the brakes untill all the air bubbles were gone plus one tube length for good measure just to get newer fluid in there. Now you will have to stop and add fluid to the MC from time to time. But it was very simple and took about 25 minutes to do all 4. My 1992 uses a 10mm deep socket to loosen the bleeders. a little will trickel out, but that makes it easier to slide the hose on, and if you use 1/4 in it stays just fine.
I bet if you end up doing this your self you will feel silly for ever contemplating paying anyone 300 to 1400 to do this for you. Heck stop by here Ill do it for you for half.