83

That's cool. I didn't think the originals were reusable, but I don't really know much. I had just always heard to never reuse head bolts, so that's what I've gone with. I'm not the type to just tell people what to do only based on what I've read on the internet, but when I see something stressed again and again by different people, I tend to believe it. Wouldn't hurt to send an email to engnbldr.com anyways...

But let us know how everything goes!

norbert.dass

my VAN Toyota Hiace CR42 3C engine - Problem:Temperature guuage goes haywire

Paperweight

According to the internets, Engnbldr says to reuse these head bolts.

In other news, when putting it back together I couldn't for the life of me get the timing sprocket back on for 3 exhausting hours in the sun because the tensioner wouldn't move. It was apparent that the PO had hammered the sprocket on or got frustrated and redid the timing chain cover after the head, perhaps reusing and destroying the gaskets in the process.

Turns out the upper oil pump bolt was non-original. It was long enough to go through (puncture?) the timing chain cover and drill in to the tensioner. This kept too much tension on the timing chain when mounting, and not enough tension when running. I've already found another use for that new grinder and tap and die set!

There are other threads on YotaTech that are just about the oil pump intricacies. Make sure you look them over when you do the timing chain cover because this stuff isn't mentioned in the walkthroughs!

Edit: My only question is why the head gasket was clean but the head bolts were dirty.

Jasper 83

Are the bolts dirty from top to bottom or just the head of them? That's a strange one

83

Interesting! Sorry to lead you astray.

Yeah, the biggest problem with these old trucks is all the crap previous owners have done to them.

Paperweight

Yeah when I was pulling the bolts one would be thickly covered in dirty oil, one in milkshake, one dry but burned... maybe it came down from the heads. But they were very tight... I couldn't turn them with a short wrench.

Ooo the mysteries within. Is House around?

Paperweight

OK I got it back together and starts and runs. Some oil burned off then stopped. It wouldn't idle until grampa adjusted the idle screw. I had the radiator filled with water and all seemed well.

Then I drove slowly around the block and it overheated and stalled. The water in the radiator was boiling for like 15 minutes afterwards! The water pump seemed fine when I had it out. Is there supposed to be a spring inside any of the rad hoses to keep them from collapsing?

I'm going to flush and burp the hell out of this and try again.

eric924run

No springs in the hoses. did you replace the tstat. as far as the boiling after stalling, when you turn your motor off it begins to heat soak. so it will start to get warmer. Id suggest fill the radiator and leave the cap off. start the motor. after a little bit the top hose should be getting warm. then hot . (the lower hose will feel no wear near as warm) then the upper hose should get real hot. then the lower hose should start to get hot. this is the tstat opening. after both hoses get to feel about the same temp add more water to make up for any that poured out or any air that exscaped. install the rad cap and test drive.

Paperweight

I'll try that stuff tomorrow! I might have jumped timing on the crank sprocket when I was messing around with the cam sprocket. Are they both supposed to be straight up or is the cam sprocket one notch counterclockwise when on the dot when at TDC (as it is)? Or maybe I installed the distributor wrong and my timing is retarded. Or maybe it's an air bubble. I'll try drilling a small bleed hole in the thermostat (and testing it.)

fork

cam sprocket 1 notch CCW?

Jasper 83

Definitely drill a hole or two in the t-stat. Thatll help burp the air out and make sure coolant is makin the circle.

Paperweight

Just want to say THANKS FOR THE ADVICE SO FAR

The 195 degree thermostat was barely opening in boiling water so I replaced it with a new tested drilled 180 degree thermostat. I backflushed out a lot of crap every which way and got out some air bubbles with the heater on etc. The coolant's flowing now! I advanced the timing a little bit and it runs a lot better.

Then I drove around the block and it didn't overheat, at least before it ran out of electricity so NOW IT'S NOT CHARGING.

The check engine light, temperature, and gas gauge don't work either since I put it back together. They worked before... I checked all the fuses with a multimeter, belt tension, and positive alternator terminal and wire. I'm suspicious about the ground wire coming out of the alternator harness. I might have forgot to tighten its bolt but I can't get at it without removing the power steering again.

Edit: The lights work now that I replaced the "Engine" fuse. Will report tomorrow as to the charging...

83

Progress! Great.

uijongbu87

Remember, are still coming out way ahead! If you decide you hate this truck you can always sell it to the right person!! I personally think you made a good choice.

Paperweight

Let's just say my girlfriend's jealous.

Paperweight

OK I tested it today and it charges. The "engine" fuse does lots of stuff!

I drove it home. Some strange noises like a diesel at high revs. Same under load. Might be something I forgot to tighten...or the bearings (crosses fingers)

Paperweight

I tightened the exhaust manifold and the noise is mostly gone.
Regreased the clutch pedal pin and now it doesn't click all the way down.
Now on to that nonfunctional back window and dangerously loose shift stick.

INFINITY

x2 i would put a HG on it and run it. does not take much to keep these motors running. put new oil/filter in when after a new HG then flush with engine flush and put new oil?filter again.

Paperweight

Today I refilled the coolant with antifreeze mix, taking half an hour to do it perfect as before. Tonight I did the timing to 5 degrees. Driving around the block again it overheated quickly and boiled the coolant furiously again. Maybe I didn't drive it long enough before?
Coolant is flowing and the rad gets real hot... it was fine while it was idling for 20 minutes doing the timing (which was kinda hard because some PO put three marks on the pulley and I was using dad's half broken timing light hmm...) but driving 100 feet got it really hot!

Paperweight

Refilled the coolant again and checked the timing. New lower rad hoses. They all get hot and I think the fan isn't going full speed. But it still overheats in 15 minutes of idling, though. A tiny bit of foam in the rad cap but wasn't there before. Maybe because I just refilled it.