fishon1213

I am replacing my rotors on my 85 4runner and I am having trouble separating the hub from the rotor. I can't get the studs out without trashing them, any tips or tricks. Can I just beat the hell out of them and buy new ones from autozone?

tc

I don't think I understand ... there are six bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. They are drilled through, so it's easy to get some PB Blaster in there to free them up. If you can't get those bolts out, you're pretty much done - no amount of beating will get them out.

After you get the bolts out, you pry them apart by working a screwdriver or prybar between the two, and working your way around the hub.

tc

This is from a '93, but your brakes are identical
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...8-4wds1212.pdf

fishon1213

I have 6 studs and 2 bolts holding the hub and rotor together. I can't get the studs out. I haven't fiddled with the bolts yet cause I thought I had to do the studs so I started with them first. I try getting the 2 bolts out and see what happens. Thanx

Matt16

Spray with WD40 or Liquid Wrench. Let it soak an hour. Get two nuts, thread them both on the stud and tighten them up against each other. Then grab hold of the BOTTOM nut (so it jams against the top nut as it is being undone) with your wrench and give it your best.

fishon1213

I'll try double nutting it when I get home. Thanx for the idea. The six studs do need to come out right? Then take the two bolts out and the hub and rotor should come apart? Also looking at some writeups, they said I need to remove the axle seal on the back of the hub. If I am just replacing the rotors I shouldn't need to remove the seal right? Thanx again

tc

??? Can you post pix? That's different than any Toyota rotor I've seen. On every one I've done (both SFA and IFS), there are six bolts (17mm socket IIRC) that go through the rotor from the back side and are threaded into the hub. The lugnut studs provide a little space to get something in there and pry them apart. You don't need to do anything with the axle bearing seal to do the rotor.

Or are you referring to the SMALL studs that hold the manual hub on?

fishon1213

Sorry, cant find the digital camera. I can tell you that they dont look like these in the pic.

Mine has 6 wheel studs and two bolts going from the inside of the rotor out. I removed the two bolts, still wont come apart. There are no bolts on the face of the hub, just the ones coming from the back.

nat88toy

pref a brass bar and a big hammer (brass softer then steel) that or a piece of wood and a big hammer

aaronk

Something is getting lost in communication I think...

Do you have the hub body and rotor off the truck or is it still stuck on there? You did take the free wheeling hub body off already right (this is the part where you pound out the cone washers)?

As tc stated, there are bolts that thread through the back of the rotor and in to the hub body. Those are the only bolts that hold on the rotor. Unscrew those bolts from the inside of the rotor and the rotor and hub will come apart. If you're trying to beat the wheel studs out with the rotor still on you're gonna get no where as the rotor butts up against hub body (and thus the wheel studs).

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You can have the studs pressed out at a shop, many auto parts stores can do that or find a buddy/neighbor with a press. With a press, the studs will not be damaged and can easily bee reused, so even if you have to pay for the labor, might come out ahead in the parts savings.

Or try the hammer approach as noted. You need the hub on something very solid like concrete to maximize the force the hammer puts into the stud, and use at least a 2-1/2 lb. hammer:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...ont_end/rotor/

fishon1213

Ok, I got everthing apart. What a PITA. There were two bolts that held the rotor to the hub, I already had those out. The six wheel studs did need to come out, and yes, i trashed them. They have them up the street for less than 2 bucks each though. I sure wish my rotor/hub looked like the one in the guide tc showed me. Looks a lot easier in design than mine. Now I have a whole new set of problems. Apparently when I was assembling everything, I got a little excited and the hub and rotor weren't flush. Now my brand new rotor has a tiny crack in it and I am so broke right now I can't really afford another. My old drivers side(the side I am doing now) rotor is trashed but my pass side(haven't started yet) should be salvagable.

What is the best way to install the studs? I got them almost all the way through but can't get the last bit.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Again the best way to install the studs (and to remove them) is with a press. Short of that, a stack of washers on the stud and an old lug nut (liberally coated w/ anti-sieze compound) and torque the nut down to put the stud into the hub.

fishon1213

I tried that method but didn't use washers and the lugnut just started to dig into the hub. I'll go outside and try it w/ washers. Thanx alot.

So if that rotor I mentioned earlier has a small crack(less than an inch) it's garbage right? The crack is on the outside of the lug pattern not on the braking surface.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

That is why you use the washers, in order to let the nut turn easier. Also, probably best to pick up a few hardened washers, they'll stand up to the pressure better without the nut digging in and galling.

fishon1213

Man this is a pita. I am using a shortend 5# sledge and still cant get them pounded thru. When I try the lugnut,washers,antiseize method I just keep stripping out my lugnuts. I guess the next step would be to get some hardened nuts instead of using the lugnuts which seem pretty weak. I have some heavy duty washers. Are there any other methods? I don't really have the option of taking it to a shop and getting it pressed. The good thing is once the studs are in the rest of the reassembly should be pretty easy. Almost there, oh, wait theres a whole nother side.

Adam F

Why cant you take it somewhere? Most any shop should have a press.

And BTW for you guys who havent seen this setup, 84/85 SFA hubs are setup this way.

fishon1213

Well after several attempts at installing the new studs I successfully cracked the rotor. The studs just wont go in all the way. Old ones go in just fine. I took the hub, more new studs, and another new rotor to a mechanic near me. So we tried the washer/lugnut method with an impact gun to try to pull the studs into place. The hub and the rotor were flush and the rotor still cracked. After some I measured the thickness of the old stud and the new ones. The new ones are visually the same, nurl is in the same spot, but are a bit thicker towards the head. So I am thinking the studs are not in spec to what they need to be. Problem is everyone around here has the same brand/part# studs. So what can I do? Can I grind the studs a little till they fit?(of course not the nurl area) What would you do?

I did go to a brake shop up the road and told him what I was doing and how I was going about it and he said he doesn't do anything different. If I can't pull them thru with an impact there not to spec. If I try to press them in I am now worried they might crack the hub. That's how tight they are but nobody has any different ones.

BTW orielly's is giving me two new rotors

tc

Dude - something is seriously wrong with this whole deal. I really hope you can post pix, because I've NEVER heard of anyone having these problems.

fishon1213

I am pretty sure its a problem of having the wrong studs. They are the right part# but probably were not machined to spec. The old studs go in just fine and are plenty tight enough to grab. The new studs look right but will not go in with any method. The new studs also measure up a little thicker. Sorry, no digital camera. I'll just try to find the right studs or grind these till they fit (of course not on the nurl)but are still tight enough that they wont turn. I don't know what else to do cause the rotors the same, the hubs original, so the studs being a shade thicker is the only variable I can think of. And trust me when I say, they just won't go in. An impact gun, two hardend washers, and a hardend nut would not pull them through. Something isn't right.

Ive gotta get this fixed, tired of driving a borrowed heep

Just out of curiosity what is the rubber seal between the hub and rotor for? anti-vibration?

BTW sorry i'm so much trouble and thanks again for the help everyone