BMcEL

Yep...that's the factory service manual for your rig.

KnightFiyah

Ok so I cannot get the bottom bolt/nut to budge at all. I sprayed some car lubricant on both sides of it just now, so Im hoping it sets in sometime later today.

Is there any way you guys know of to get these off easier?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

They're gonna be tight. Make sure you're turning the right way Use 1/2" socket and ratchet, and really give her hell. Lay on your back and push the ratchet or wrench with your foot if necessary.

blake.nemitz

brap impact ha ha or sea foam deep creep works better than pb or other penetrating oils and on a side note works wonders for cleaning and lubing guns especially de carboning ar's. well good luck on braking those loose

KnightFiyah

Wait...I turn it to the left...right? XD

BMcEL

I think up is tight and down is loose.

Resto-noob

iTrader: (3)

Get a piece of pipe to slide over the ratchet for more mechanical advantage. I've got a 30" "cheater bar" that really makes the bolts snap-I mean snap free.

KnightFiyah

Wait that smiley emoticon totally threw me off now XD

For the shock on the right side, I turn to the left?

And Resto, I'll see if I can find any pipe laying around. That's actually a really good idea.

BMcEL

Up is definitely tight...checked my math a few minutes ago.

85gijunk4x4

resto beat me to it.

and up isnt "right" (or loose, i should say) because "up" could either be tight or loose, depending on what side the wrench is on the nut. you know what i mean?

what i would do, is put my finger throught the wrench or socket, pretending its the bolt, and then move the wrench so its rotating counter-clockwise around your finger.

if your facing the nut (wich i will use "0" to represent) take the wrench (wich i will use "---" to represent) put the wrench on like this "----0" and pull down.

or if you've had it like this "0----" push up.

hope that made sense. i'd use a 6-sided socket, to prevent stripping, and a socket wrench with a long breaker bar on it. and if your using a wrench, try to avoid open-ended while your breaking it loose, that way its not as prone to stripping. the bolts should be metric, so make sure the socket has a # with "mm" next to it like "#mm", if not, its the wrong size, even if it feels snug.

BMcEL

Only kidding. Sheesh.

85gijunk4x4

hahaha, it was the "up is definatly tight..." comment that threw me off.

and i think Knight beleived you too LOL

BMcEL

Haha I think he did too...guess I should be more careful.

KnightFiyah

Haha alright I get it now, and yes you totally threw me off lol.

I know I asked this before but just to clarify, the truck doesn't need to be jacked up right? Im just curious because I don't know of anything else besides the coils that are holding up the suspension.

rattlers

if its anything like my 85 4runner , no the shocks dont hold up anything the leaf springs do, so you wont have to jack the rear up to change the rear shocks

Resto-noob

iTrader: (3)

No toolbox is complete without a cheater pipe. I sprayed mine bright orange so that I can find it easily. If you can get one with enough inside diameter to fit over the open end of a 19mm wrench, you're more than all set. I'm a fairly big guy, and I still find myself using it to work smarter, not harder.

KnightFiyah

Yeah I'll definitely have to get myself one of those cheater pipes, lol.

So another speed bump...



That's the other side of the nut/bolt holding the bottom of the shock in place. I think I know why it wouldn't budge now...

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Mine looks just like that. That is not the back side of the bolt. The bolt is a stud, but doesn't protrude out the other side. You just aren't trying hard enuf

KnightFiyah

Looks like I don't have any excuses then lol.

No matter how hard I try I cannot get it off. Oh well, looks like Im stuck with waiting for a local auto shop.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Hey, you gave er a shot. More than most people can say.