Ciscopickup

Its a 92 pickup 3.0 4x4 ifs with a 4" suspension lift. Ill jus come out and say it I'm a newbie . Well I got the pickup an got it to the house an started to put my 33 AT's on it an discovered that the driver side rear had 1 lug broke off and 2 more stripped so I was wondering if I had to replacd the whole axle or what?

Also do I need to re-gear to run the 33's?

Bojangles

Im running stock gearing in my Toyota with 33x12.50's

Also, if im correct i believe you should just be able to either screw or bump the studs out with a hammer and put the new ones in.
You can buy more studs at a Autozone, Advance Auto, Orielys, Napa, Stuff like that.


:EDIT: Also ive got a 22RE 4cyl engine.
If you have the 3.0 i say leave the gearing until you drive it for yourself and see how it feels...

xxxtreme22r

lugs are replaceable, you buy new ones, pound the old ones out and press the new ones in.

33's will work with the factory gearing, but 4:88's are recommended if you want to keep some power on the highway.

download yourself a FSM and you should find out how to replace those lugs.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/1993.zip

87 'runner boosted

ive never checked the lugs on mine yet...surely those lugs can be beat out though and new ones beat in. And they dont call it a 3.slow for nothin....regearing always helps with that kind of stuff...4.56's would be a good place to start, maybe even some 4.88's, im gonna be puttin 4.88's on mine to turn 33's eventually.

snobdds

wont have to replace the whole axle to fix the lug studs. Will have to remove all the disk brake stuff to gain access to pop out those studs. Not too hard and a great time to look at the rear brakes and see what condition there in.

Af far as the 33's go...regearing to 4.88 is a must for that engine to keep it driveable on a daily basis.

Bojangles

If you want more power DEF regear it,
But like i said, stock gearing with my 33's and i do just fine.
And she's my Daily Driver...
But i plan on throwin some 5.29's at it soon

87 'runner boosted

and about regearing...I was gonna head out to the wreckin yard this next weekend and starting looking for misc stuff for my new 4runner (ie : driveline (rear), dome light cover, etc.) and was going to look for some yotas that had stock 4.88's on them...anyone know if there was such a thing or do i just need to regear the whole thing?

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

^Yeah, they did
90-95 Trucks & 4runners with the 3.0slow, Auto Transmission.
Just look for the code G144=4.88
or G254 = 4.56

87 'runner boosted

sweet man, thanks. im gonna check em out...nothin really to pulling those things is there?

toyrunnerns

you may have 4.56 gears . code is g254 for v6 5sp and g284 for auto. this may be fine. i have 22re with stock gears running 31's , not to bad. v6 and 33's should be ok, but not sure.

Ciscopickup

Thank y'all for the info..an snobbs its the rear brakes those are drum brakes I wish they were diskthough...but thanks for the help an info all is appreciated...and for thed regearing question everybody thinks the stock gears will work? Ok it may seem like a stupid question but doesn't it mean that if the two numbers are closer together the stronger they are? Or could someone explain this to me caus like I said I'm a newbie an tryin to figure this all out

87 'runner boosted

4.10, 4.56, 4.88, etc....all that means is that your drive shaft turns 4.1 (respectively) times per every one full rotation of your wheels. so no, has nothing to do with stronger/weaker. Its like this : if you were to put 10" tall wheels (tire/wheel together), your truck would spin those things like crazy. when you start putting 33's, 35's, 38's, etc, your driveshaft turn to wheel turn ration goes down, your truck will then have the ability to go faster, but will have less power (hard to turn those big tires), so to compensate for that, people put different gears in to get them back to a manageble engine power/tire size ratio.

Ciscopickup

Oh aight thanks...so you think the stock 4.56s will work to get decent mpg an still push me through a mud hole or two?

peow130

Changing a rear differential is relatively easy. Drain housing, unbolt axle from each side, slide each axle out slowly as to not destroy your axle seal.
Unbolt the 12 or 14 nuts holding on the differential and slowly drop it down. (Dont let it fall on your chest it effin hurts)..
clean the rtv off the housing
put rtv on the new differential, and repeat in reverse

87 'runner boosted

ya, they oughta....Im gonna put 4.88's on mine just cuz im not sure how big i wanna go...i know itll push 33's pretty easy, but might go 35's sometime.

Ciscopickup

Aight thanks for all the info yall

MudHippy

The front axle has to be removed from the truck to get to the gears easily. Pulling a front axle from an IFS rig is quite a chore. However, pulling the gears while the axle is still on the truck is worse. And it's alot easier to just swap out the entire axle with the axle containing the gears you want. Instead of removing the ring and pinion and installing them in your current axle. The rear is just a simple 3rd member swap.

Auto or 5 speed has nothing to do with the gear code. BTW, most automatics came with 4.30s, gear code G282(4cyl) or G284(V6). G254(V6) or G252(4cyl) is 4.56s, 5 speed or auto.

See the link below for more info.
http://toyota.off-road.com/trucks-4x...ion-18588.html
You'll get better mpgs with taller/higher gears. If your truck came with 4.10s, those will give you the best mileage, but the least torque output. Lower gears(i.e. 4.56, 4.88)raise the rpms required to go a certain speed. That leads to worse gas mileage, but higher torque.

As far as pushing through a mud hole, that's what 4Low is for.

99blackSE

iTrader: (1)

Mud Hippy is right, doesn't matter if it's 5 speed or auto. 4.88s is G144, harder to find it seems (I was pretty happy when I found my '93!). If you're running an auto with the 3VZE with 33s I'd try and run 4.88s. I found with my 22R-E, even a 5 spd with 4.10s, turning 31s was a noticeable difference in power and also fuel economy (made it worse). The truck feels a lot better now for power with 4.56s and I don't to throttle as much. I think it's actually better in the city and the jury is still out on hwy mileage.

peow130

I'll have to disagree more with the 4.10 part, because you won't get better mileage. You'll be using more RPM's to jump from gear to gear, whereas you'll use the same as you would with 4.88/33's as compared to 4.10/28-30..
At highway speeds your RPM's should feel exactly like with 4.10's and smaller tires. The larger circumference of the tires allows for the tires to take up the extra rpms with more speed, thus lowering the required speed to go a specific mph.

However, with bigger tires usually comes wider tires and an overall wider surface area on the ground. More-road resistance = lower MPG's.
So, either way you're going to see an MPG drop.

JonnyBoy

Just another detail, the lug studs from Oreilly or Autozone will not fit in the holes in the axle well. The only ones I can vouch for fitting as they're s'posed to is Toyota. The ones from either Marlin or Trail-gear are genuine Toyota, so that's what I've done on my '83 and my 4Runner.

As for the gearing, you'll hear people claiming both sides of the fence. I have 5.29's in my pickup with a 22r(80 hp?), 4.10's in my Runner with a 5vz-fe from a '00 Tacoma(190 hp), and I have to downshift in the Runner on hills that I don't with the '83. Granted, the Runner is heavier, but it can accelerate through the rpm range better. If you have enough power in the appropriate rpm range(the 5vz's range is broader), gearing doesn't matter as much. The 3vz-e, however, doesn't have enough power for gearing to not matter. I didn't ever see what your tranny is, but for 33's to stay at pretty much the same engine rpm to tire rpm ratio as was stock in your vehicle, 4.88's are ideal for 5spd, 5.29's are ideal for an auto.