Rear axle assembly replace and advice.
01-10-2012, 06:00 AM
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Rear axle assembly replace and advice.
Hello guys,
First off I have a 2000 SR5 Runner, 265/75/16. I have had a noise for a while now coming from my 4runner it never has effected anything and never changed is severity just always a noise that changes pitch purely based on the speed of the car turning and stopping and acceleration have no affect. I found the problem and when i took off the back wheel and drum and rotate the rear axle you can hear that something is no longer smooth. I took it into the shop the guy there says the seals are blown and the bearing sounds like its going out. Now my first question if the bearing is out why did my runner have no problem or did nothing worse happen when i drove 2600miles? Ok so the shop quoted me $2500 fix that he says I need new rear axle both sides bearings and seals. My main question is I would love to do this project myself, I have done lots of maintenance and mechanical work before on the car and I feel like I better do everything from now on because I want to make sure each job is done meticulously and precise. So I would love advice on doing this fix and I would also love advice on if you think that all that needs to be replaced. I can always count on this Forum thanks guys.
First off I have a 2000 SR5 Runner, 265/75/16. I have had a noise for a while now coming from my 4runner it never has effected anything and never changed is severity just always a noise that changes pitch purely based on the speed of the car turning and stopping and acceleration have no affect. I found the problem and when i took off the back wheel and drum and rotate the rear axle you can hear that something is no longer smooth. I took it into the shop the guy there says the seals are blown and the bearing sounds like its going out. Now my first question if the bearing is out why did my runner have no problem or did nothing worse happen when i drove 2600miles? Ok so the shop quoted me $2500 fix that he says I need new rear axle both sides bearings and seals. My main question is I would love to do this project myself, I have done lots of maintenance and mechanical work before on the car and I feel like I better do everything from now on because I want to make sure each job is done meticulously and precise. So I would love advice on doing this fix and I would also love advice on if you think that all that needs to be replaced. I can always count on this Forum thanks guys.
01-10-2012, 06:30 AM
#2
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I replaced the rumbly right side bearing some time ago, the left is still fine and hasn't needed replacing so far. Pulling the axle is easy, I took my axle and toyota parts down to the local machine shop to have the new stuff pressed on. If you do it that way make sure the shop measures and replaces everything exactly as it was. Do you have bent axles or something that would make the guy think you need whole new axles? Why both sides?
Anyway, saw this thread not too long ago, thought it interesting...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...d-3rd-gen.html
Anyway, saw this thread not too long ago, thought it interesting...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...d-3rd-gen.html
01-10-2012, 06:39 AM
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Thanks for the rapid reply, when the mechanic took me out to verify the problem he rotated the rear drivers and the noise was there and then went over and rotated the passengers rear side and it had the same noise so I am guessing that proves both are out I know the seals are bad now because there is oil on the back of the drum. How do I determine is the axles are bent?
01-10-2012, 06:47 AM
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Beyond my scope....look that them when you take them out, use a straight edge to check against? Someone with more know than me will hopefully chime in.
I was just wondering why he wanted to replace the whole axle, if I read your post correctly.
Don't forget to use that search button.
I was just wondering why he wanted to replace the whole axle, if I read your post correctly.
Don't forget to use that search button.
Last edited by habanero; 01-10-2012 at 06:49 AM.
01-10-2012, 07:18 AM
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Yeah I was not sure why the whole axle needed to be replaced. I have searched a lot for this problem and there is not much on diagnosis as there is on the fixing it myself. I just want some tell-tale ways to know if the axle is bent and what to replace so I can get my parts in and fix it. So lets hope some more people chime in.
01-10-2012, 07:41 AM
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trail-gear sells new OEM rear axle rebuild kits... they are around $100 per side...
They also sell new axles, $300.
That's $500... $2500 is WAY WAY WAY too much!!!! You can pick up a whole axle for $500 in good shape....
They also sell new axles, $300.
That's $500... $2500 is WAY WAY WAY too much!!!! You can pick up a whole axle for $500 in good shape....
01-10-2012, 08:08 AM
#7
Easy check for bent axle shafts is to put the rear end up on jack stands and block the front wheels well. Put it in gear with the engine idling and then you can hold a pointer up to the wheel and see if there is any wobble in the wheel face, either in/out or up/down. If seen, you can pull the wheel off and repeat the test with the brake drum.
Usually with bent shafts, you'll also feel a vibration driving down the road and that vibration will change as you round turns because the two bent shafts will go into and out of phase as you round a long gradual turn. I used to have both shafts bent on my '85 and could feel and see the wobble.
Usually with bent shafts, you'll also feel a vibration driving down the road and that vibration will change as you round turns because the two bent shafts will go into and out of phase as you round a long gradual turn. I used to have both shafts bent on my '85 and could feel and see the wobble.
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01-10-2012, 08:17 AM
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Have you thought about asking the shop why they want to replace the axles since they're the ones telling you they need to be replaced? 
Bearings can grind away for thousands of miles before failing.
Your axle seals are leaking and your bearings are shot, that much we know. There are numerous write-ups here on how to replace axle seals and wheel bearings.
Your axle seals are leaking and your bearings are shot, that much we know. There are numerous write-ups here on how to replace axle seals and wheel bearings.
01-10-2012, 08:33 AM
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Thanks so much for the input guys. I have called the shop again to inquire why the axles themselves need to be replaced, I will check the the axles how 4Crawler said. And i checked websites for the bearing and seal kit for the convenience of buying in one, but trail-gear only had the kit for 85-95. Still new to the Toyota maintenance and replacing only had the rig for a year and a half. thanks again all.
01-10-2012, 08:42 AM
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So the mechanic just got back to me on the reason for the axles needing replaced. He says the there is a chronic issue with Toyotas that he has seen numerous times in that when the bearing fails or is failling as in my case that the bearing wears a groove on the axle and if I were to just replace the bearing that the seal between the new bearing and axle would leak within a month and the sound would come back. Now for you guys is there truth to this matter. He says toyota never recalled this but has a upgraded axle and bearing that has corrected the problem. So hopefully someone out there has been through this situation.
01-10-2012, 03:22 PM
#11
So the mechanic just got back to me on the reason for the axles needing replaced. He says the there is a chronic issue with Toyotas that he has seen numerous times in that when the bearing fails or is failling as in my case that the bearing wears a groove on the axle and if I were to just replace the bearing that the seal between the new bearing and axle would leak within a month and the sound would come back. Now for you guys is there truth to this matter. He says toyota never recalled this but has a upgraded axle and bearing that has corrected the problem. So hopefully someone out there has been through this situation.
01-10-2012, 03:42 PM
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x2. If you're comfortable posting your location I bet you will get some recommendations for reputable shops nearby. Start a new thread here with your location in the title:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f208/
If you decide to do it yourself, read some writeups first so you know what you're getting into.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f208/
If you decide to do it yourself, read some writeups first so you know what you're getting into.
01-11-2012, 05:01 AM
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I am still looking at doing it myself other than pressing the bearings, those I will send off to the machine shop to have done. I am looking for the best place to order and or buy the new axles and bearings and seals. looked a lot of places and just trying to find the best ones for the best deal. anybody got recommendations. I will also try to take pictures and give a description of every step to update the process hopefully I can help the next guy with this issue.
Last edited by YellowstoneSteve; 01-11-2012 at 06:30 AM.
01-11-2012, 07:36 AM
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I'd stick with OEM for wheel bearings and axle seals. I really doubt your axles need to be replaced. The following sites have discounted genuine Toyota parts and good feedback on YotaTech.
1sttoyotaparts.com
toyotapartseast.com
1sttoyotaparts.com
toyotapartseast.com
Last edited by BMcEL; 01-11-2012 at 09:37 AM.
01-12-2012, 06:00 AM
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That can happen with *utterly* ruined bearings - where the bearing itself locks up, and then either the inner or outer races begine to turn against the axle or in the bearing retainer (respectively). But that's in the very last stages of uter and complete bearing failure - you know, about 10 miles before the wheel and axle shaft just slides on out of the axle housing.
It's a pretty simple procedure to pull the axle shafts out, take them and some new parts to a machine shop.
Have the machine shop take note of the placement of the various pressed on parts though. On some years (not sure when it changes) there are unusual gaps between the various elements pressed onto the shaft (bearing, ABS sensor ring, seal ring). Generally, a machine shop will assume theyr'e like any other axle in the world, and press them all on snugly against each other. Which won't work (ABS may or may not work, seal on the axle housing won't be on the seal ring on the axle).
It's a pretty simple procedure to pull the axle shafts out, take them and some new parts to a machine shop.
Have the machine shop take note of the placement of the various pressed on parts though. On some years (not sure when it changes) there are unusual gaps between the various elements pressed onto the shaft (bearing, ABS sensor ring, seal ring). Generally, a machine shop will assume theyr'e like any other axle in the world, and press them all on snugly against each other. Which won't work (ABS may or may not work, seal on the axle housing won't be on the seal ring on the axle).
01-12-2012, 06:42 AM
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Ok so as far as replacement axles. I find OEM ones and they range from $200-450 and then I find this Dorman brand and they are on sale for $187ish. Can anybody out there tell me if they are crap product or if this would be an ok choice. Got to say bad economy is not helping a semi expensive fix right now so trying to save where I can. This is my daily driver not a trail rig other than dirt backroads to get me to the good fishing holes.
01-12-2012, 06:48 AM
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You don't need to replace the axle shafts.
Well, let me back track slightly and say there's a 99.5% chance you don't need to replace the axle shafts.
Trying to save money? A decent shart would be to not replace a non-wearing part. Replace the seal, the bearing, the ring the seal rides on. And I think generally the ABS sensor ring, the MS might damage the old one taking it off.
But spurious statements by your mechanic aside, almost certainly no reason to replace the axle shafts themselves. Just, as mentioned, check for bends by rotating them before temoving them, the only way they can bend is outboard of the bearing, and that will make the wheel/hub/drum wobble. Is thee any real reason to suspect they're bent?
Well, let me back track slightly and say there's a 99.5% chance you don't need to replace the axle shafts.
Trying to save money? A decent shart would be to not replace a non-wearing part. Replace the seal, the bearing, the ring the seal rides on. And I think generally the ABS sensor ring, the MS might damage the old one taking it off.
But spurious statements by your mechanic aside, almost certainly no reason to replace the axle shafts themselves. Just, as mentioned, check for bends by rotating them before temoving them, the only way they can bend is outboard of the bearing, and that will make the wheel/hub/drum wobble. Is thee any real reason to suspect they're bent?
01-12-2012, 07:05 AM
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Thanks Jomoka, I will check the axles for being bent. In regard to the axle shaft being worn, I have heard from another mechanic (my close friend) that with the mileage I have put on them since the noise was there wearing there is greater chance they are worn just enough so that when the new bearings are pressed onto the old shaft they will leak. Of course I just need to get my garage empty in order to jack this thing up take the axles out and get a look at the situation. really do appreciate the help and I do agree and hope that the axles are indeed ok and I dont have to replace them. thanks again.
01-12-2012, 07:08 AM
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Maybe I should start another thread but I am also having to replace my front rotors again. The ceramic pads are 1 year old the rotors are 1 year old and warped. Now I really am pissed about it and may just by a stock rotor again to get another year out of them. I really want to upgrade to tundra brakes but until I get steady work that is not an option so any recommendations from guys that have had this rotor warping issue?
