Noise and vibration when hubs are locked 2wd and 4wd
#1
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Noise and vibration when hubs are locked 2wd and 4wd
So my 4wd has been working just fine, when i lock my hubs, they stay locked. Just recently, i started hearing and feeling pretty much the same exact sound and feel of driving on the side of the highway where the slots are cut into the road for people who fall asleep and start drifting.That same feel and noise. It seems to happen a lot more when im turning but sometimes does it going straight. As soon as i unlock the hubs, everything is fine. At first it sounded like my left wheel and that was the side i never took the hub apart. On the right side, my hub wasn't locking and engaging the cv axle. And... when i took it apart, all the insides stayed in, the pawl and clutch, the spring, only the dial came off. And i made sure it was in "free" when i took it off. Anyhow, i took the left side apart, CLEANED EVERYTHING, springs and all and I noticed the ball bearing was missing. No little detent spring or anything. I figured, i'll order one from marlin crawler but that shouldn't be the issue, and it DOES stay locked. I know i need it but, anyway... It sounded and felt great for about 2 hours, no sound, no vibrating and then bam, the other day it started again. Any ideas? Maybe the differential or cv joint.
#2
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If you put the locking hubs selector on just right (read: wrong) during assembly they'll stay in the disengaged position no indexing ball required.
If you see no indication of chatter wear in the locking hubs it will be part of the drive line. Inspect for binding and worn parts make sure the shafts are proberly lubricated. Inspect the magnetic plug on the diff and it's fluid.
take the load off the shaft (jack up the tire) and shimmy the wheel and shaft while using a pick to get the parts out of the stuck side for rebuild..
PS were just shooting blind you didn't say what you're driving.
If you see no indication of chatter wear in the locking hubs it will be part of the drive line. Inspect for binding and worn parts make sure the shafts are proberly lubricated. Inspect the magnetic plug on the diff and it's fluid.
take the load off the shaft (jack up the tire) and shimmy the wheel and shaft while using a pick to get the parts out of the stuck side for rebuild..
PS were just shooting blind you didn't say what you're driving.
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Spindle nut issue
Also, the axle nut or spindle nut, there are 2 of them... the inner and outer before u get to the bearing. The nuts are fine but the tube or whatever it threads to is cross threaded. What is that part called? I cant find it on rock auto. Its the part that encases the cv axle. Is it called a spindle? Since its what the spindle nut threads on to.
#5
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Also, the axle nut or spindle nut, there are 2 of them... the inner and outer before u get to the bearing. The nuts are fine but the tube or whatever it threads to is cross threaded. What is that part called? I cant find it on rock auto. Its the part that encases the cv axle. Is it called a spindle? Since its what the spindle nut threads on to.
43521 NUT, FRONT WHEEL ADJUSTING
43521-60011 you'll need two of them, the inner is referred to as the adjusting nut, the outter is the lock nut.These connect to the front drive shaft, which you'll probably need to replace also. I expect a tap and die of that size is about the same price as a new shaft.
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you can check is its your drive shaft that is bad by pulling the shaft off the truck and see if it still vibrates. If it does then you've proven that it is something in the front axle that is vibrating.
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It only vibrates when going around a turn and it feels like its on the left side. If i have the truck in 4wd or 2wd with the hubs in free mode, the vibration doesn't occur. The only time the vibration occurs is then the left hub is locked in, 4wd or 2wd.
#11
This sounds similar to what something I have. I believe it's going to be the spindle bushing needs greasing or replacement. I haven't got around to it yet so I can't even tell you if it's worked out for me. You should look into it.
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This may be a silly question but, why are you driving around with your hubs locked, in 2wd? I've done this while on the trail getting from one obstacle to the next but not on the road.
#15
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Locked hub in 2wd
If you had a locker up front it could cause the same issues that are present if you're in 4wd.
If you were flat towing an automatic it would also be an issue, same as towing with the rear propshaft connected.
It's not a concern to run with locked hubs otherwise. It keeps you from having to dig out the hub switch if you bury the front end in a snow bank, but adds a little bit of power lose due to drag of the extra rotating assemblies.
If you were flat towing an automatic it would also be an issue, same as towing with the rear propshaft connected.
It's not a concern to run with locked hubs otherwise. It keeps you from having to dig out the hub switch if you bury the front end in a snow bank, but adds a little bit of power lose due to drag of the extra rotating assemblies.
Last edited by Co_94_PU; 01-27-2017 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Typo, towing not running
#16
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No, i was always told by my dad that it was a bad idea but i've also been told by friends that its ok. I always listen to dad so no I dont. I just wanted to use the process of elimination. I found that like i said before, it only vibrates and makes that god awful noise when they are locked, 4wd or 2wd makes no difference. I also noticed that if im in 2wd with them locked, there seems to be loss of power or something is dragging.
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ya thats correct. my other thread was more on what the spindle or steering knuckle is called so i could buy a new one. But yes, thats correct and I've already been told about starting multiple threads on the same issue. Thanks for bringin it up again.
#20
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List your vehicle specs again, some have issues others will not specifically I'm vaguely recalling an issue with an ADD model with floppy bearings one one side. Others know those models much much better than I do.