Detroit locker for DD?

krawnic · 11-14-2009, 11:37 PM

33" tires, stock gears, ifs(for now). I need to get a locker soon and I'm not sure what to get, I'm sort of leaning towards a detroit locker, any input would be appreciated.

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brian2sun · 11-15-2009, 01:46 AM

Detriots (and other lunchbox style lockers) are the cheapest, easiest to install, and work good, but are not selectable. ARBs are not cheap, but they work good and are selectable. Used elockers are usually pretty affordable (around $3-500), work good, and are selectable, but require basic fab skills to retro fit into a non-elocker diff.

I decided to go with a rear ARB locker because I didn't have a shop or a welder to do the elocker retro fit myself and I couldn't find a used elocker at the time anyways. I wanted selectability because there are times when I want the diff open (like on a flat icy road), and other times I want it locked (like when I'm spinning 1 tire in deep snow). You get what you pay for, but whatever locker you choose, it'll be a huge improvement over your stock diff.

desertcamper67 · 11-15-2009, 06:57 AM

I totally agree with the icy roads and a selectable locker. Where you live and the usual roads conditions will need to be considered for your decision. I really like the ARB.

I totally disagree that a Detroit is cheap. And it's not inexpensive either. It's a highly proven product and has less bells and whistles than an air or e-locker. No broken air lines or pulled out wire is going to stop it from doing its job.
There is a lot of opinions on this and as stated above any locker will definately improve the off-roading ability of your truck. Choose a style and get the best you can afford.

ScottyC · 11-15-2009, 07:26 AM

Just to correct the lunch box type locker reference. A Detroit is not a lunch box type locker. Lunch box types just replace the spider gears inside the carrier with a ratcheting type locker. These include an Aussie Locker, Lockrite, Etc.

A Detroit Locker (No Spin Locker) is a full carrier locker that replaces the whole carrier. IMO, they are much stronger and not nearly as harsh as the lunch box types, nor as noisy on the street.

I have run Detroits in snow and ice in CO, and while they are not the same as an open diff, they also aren't as bad as everyone says either. I have run selectables, and have run a Detroit, lockrite, etc. While the selectable Elocker or ARB is the better option, its not the only way to go either.

Gnarly4X · 11-15-2009, 07:39 AM

There's lots opinions on this topic.

In my experience (I've had two Toy trucks with Detroits and Lockrights). You can get the rear-end, or front end, to side slip with the lockers, but the advantages and improvement over open diffs outways the potential for side slip. With lockers, I just use a little less throttle in ice and snow. The Detroit is more expensive and more involved to install it, but it doesn't have the ratcheting and bucking that the Lockright style causes. I would only put in a Detroit in the rear over the Lockright. The ARBs are a good choice for control, but they are historically less reliable.

The limited-slip type are another option, but they don't have the lock-up that a full locker has, so there is trade-off.

Even if I lived in a snowy climate, I wouldn't hesitate to run a Detroit in the rear and a Lockright in the front.

That's just my worthless opinion.

gNARLS.

brian2sun · 11-15-2009, 11:24 AM

Just to clarify, I meant Detroits are cheaper as in price, not in quality. And they're easier to install than ARBs and elockers because you don't have to wire them. And with the ARBs, you'll also have to mount the compressor and run the air line.

Detroits do have a ratcheting mechanism, maybe they're not exactly the same as Aussies and Lockrights, but I thought that's what a lunchbox was - a ratchet. Am I wrong about this?

My ARB is totally reliable. A lot of people will tell you that the worst thing about ARBs is that the air lines leak but mine never have. If they ever did it would take an entire 10 minutes or less to fix it with the repair kit that was supplied to me for free by ARB.

brian2sun · 11-15-2009, 11:35 AM

Ok, so lunchboxes install inside the diff carrier and Detroits replace the whole carrier (thanks ScottyC). I thought the ratcheting was what made it a lunchbox.

Gnarly4X · 11-15-2009, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian2sun

Just to clarify, I meant Detroits are cheaper as in price, not in quality. And they're easier to install than ARBs and elockers because you don't have to wire them. And with the ARBs, you'll also have to mount the compressor and run the air line.

Detroits do have a ratcheting mechanism, maybe they're not exactly the same as Aussies and Lockrights, but I thought that's what a lunchbox was - a ratchet. Am I wrong about this?

My ARB is totally reliable. A lot of people will tell you that the worst thing about ARBs is that the air lines leak but mine never have. If they ever did it would take an entire 10 minutes or less to fix it with the repair kit that was supplied to me for free by ARB.

I always thought that the term "lunch box" was because the Lockrights came in a box about the size of lunch box??? But, hey I never really pondered it??

gNARLS.

toyNG · 11-15-2009, 11:39 AM

For what it's worth, I feel my rear Lockright is very tolerable. The only times I ever notice it is in parking lots. I have a manual, so I just throw it into neutral when I make tight turns. I used heavy gear oil, as recommended by the manufacturer, and it is surprisingly quiet. I can only hear the ratcheting if I turn the radio off and really make an effort to listen.

It seems that there is a big variation as to how people feel about the "tolerability' of lunchbox lockers. This is the only one I've ever had, so I don't have much experience, but I will say that it is much more tolerable than I expected it would be. However, I never have to drive in snow/ice.

Gnarly4X · 11-15-2009, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyNG

For what it's worth, I feel my rear Lockright is very tolerable. The only times I ever notice it is in parking lots. I have a manual, so I just throw it into neutral when I make tight turns. I used heavy gear oil, as recommended by the manufacturer, and it is surprisingly quiet. I can only hear the ratcheting if I turn the radio off and really make an effort to listen.

It seems that there is a big variation as to how people feel about the "tolerability' of lunchbox lockers. This is the only one I've ever had, so I don't have much experience, but I will say that it is much more tolerable than I expected it would be. However, I never have to drive in snow/ice.

The ratcheting sound was'nt the problem for me, it was the bucking when turning into a parking spot. Sometimes it sounded and felt like the whole rear end was going come apart. I've had people who are standing near the spot I'm pulling into, say "Gee, your truck is making a lot of noise". Or.. "Hey dude, 'you sure you should be driv'n that thing!!"

I told one old man who said my "truck sounds like it's ready for a major overhaul!".... "It's just my locker".... to that he said "Well damn son, you need to make sure it's unlocked when you drive yer truck!!!"

gNARLS.

muddpigg · 11-15-2009, 12:43 PM

Oh boy, I'll toss my two cents in on the subject. If you are not regearing and want to keep stock gears? Then go with the lunchbox locker. Detroit does make one or used to. It was the first lunchbox I know of, next came the Locrite. Locrite was the next generation and an article I read said it was designed by the same guy, so it is evolve in design and materials over the first and was made by Richmond. Next comes the Aussie which to according to the article I read was also designed by the same guy. Was an improvement over the other two lockers. It is reported to have a lower threshold to overcome so the outer wheel can turn facter than the inner easier. This is suppose to make it smoother in operation. I have a rear locrite now and a detroit in the front of my IFS, I believe it is a lunchbox design as that is all that was availible at the time. But honestly never cared enough to open it up to find out.

I chose the locrite for the rear solely because of availiblity, many venders sale Locrites but only Aussie sales theirs and they were back ordered at the time. I have now driven this locrite for 3 years, including snow, ice, and rain. I have run two brands of tires at this time both 12.5 M/T, which is not the best tire for snow less than a foot and ice. The best thing I've found is to lock the hubs in and drop it in 4high. As any amount of throttle brings the rear around. I'm not against going slow but don't like being runover doing 15mph when everyone else is going 35mph. I keep the hubs locked drop in/out of 4wd when the roads clear and drop it in in parking lots and secondary streets.

I've also heard about the harshness of the locrite and will say yes it can be. But I've learned to drive it and rarely have bucking and the like. I've stop trying to explain it to people who hear the racheting and now state "yeah, I'll have to check it." But if you can't learn to drive it you'll hate it. As it can be more temperemetal than a hormonal female but if you can as any one who has successfully managed a hormonal female it can be worth your while.

The locrite third is soon to be replaced by an ARB third. When I SAS an Aussie is going in the front. The locrite third will probably get shelved just incase I need spare.

brian2sun · 11-15-2009, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnarly4X

I always thought that the term "lunch box" was because the Lockrights came in a box about the size of lunch box??? But, hey I never really pondered it??

gNARLS.

Hmm...could be.

And thanks for the info muddpigg, that clears up my confusion.

Matt16 · 11-15-2009, 01:05 PM

If the rear is sliding around with the locker, put it in 4wd and be a little more careful with the skinny pedal. People make a mountain out of a molehill when talking about the drivability of a full time locker on slippery surfaces. This goes for all full timers.

I don't find my Aussie very "unpredictable" as I can predict what it will do given my input. Got that down in about a couple days of drivng.

brian2sun · 11-15-2009, 06:15 PM

Yeah it's not hard to get used to, definitely not a big deal. But I do prefer running my diff open on ice since I have the choice.

desertcamper67 · 11-15-2009, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddpigg

Oh boy, I'll toss my two cents in on the subject. If you are not regearing and want to keep stock gears? Then go with the lunchbox locker. Detroit does make one or used to. It was the first lunchbox I know of, next came the Locrite. Locrite was the next generation and an article I read said it was designed by the same guy, so it is evolve in design and materials over the first and was made by Richmond. Next comes the Aussie which to according to the article I read was also designed by the same guy. Was an improvement over the other two lockers. It is reported to have a lower threshold to overcome so the outer wheel can turn facter than the inner easier. This is suppose to make it smoother in operation. I have a rear locrite now and a detroit in the front of my IFS, I believe it is a lunchbox design as that is all that was availible at the time. But honestly never cared enough to open it up to find out.

I chose the locrite for the rear solely because of availiblity, many venders sale Locrites but only Aussie sales theirs and they were back ordered at the time. I have now driven this locrite for 3 years, including snow, ice, and rain. I have run two brands of tires at this time both 12.5 M/T, which is not the best tire for snow less than a foot and ice. The best thing I've found is to lock the hubs in and drop it in 4high. As any amount of throttle brings the rear around. I'm not against going slow but don't like being runover doing 15mph when everyone else is going 35mph. I keep the hubs locked drop in/out of 4wd when the roads clear and drop it in in parking lots and secondary streets.

I've also heard about the harshness of the locrite and will say yes it can be. But I've learned to drive it and rarely have bucking and the like. I've stop trying to explain it to people who hear the racheting and now state "yeah, I'll have to check it." But if you can't learn to drive it you'll hate it. As it can be more temperemetal than a hormonal female but if you can as any one who has successfully managed a hormonal female it can be worth your while.

The locrite third is soon to be replaced by an ARB third. When I SAS an Aussie is going in the front. The locrite third will probably get shelved just incase I need spare.

I think it's called the Detroit EZ Locker

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian2sun

Yeah it's not hard to get used to, definitely not a big deal. But I do prefer running my diff open on ice since I have the choice.

The Detroit Soft Locker isn't without its street driving characteristics either. You do have to drive it differently as you would with any ratcheting locker. On the street in slow tight turns it'll give you some negative feedback unless you use the clutch but I have found it helpful on windy turns.

Has anybody found this to be true with an automatic locker? You can change or set up the stance of the vehicle going into the turn by using the skinny pedal. Its a touchy feely thing that you get used to but it can actually help once you get to knowing the kick you'll get by blipping the gas as you approach the tightest part of a turn.
I was actually concerned about driving my first locker equipped Yota down a mountain in the rain because of the warning pamphlets that came with the Detroit. Now it is totally predictable and not at all hindering. (I don't drive in ice. Southern California). I actually like it but think it does wear tires a little quicker than an open diff does.

ScottyC · 11-15-2009, 06:52 PM

The harshness I was referring to with the Lockrite is also based on parking lots and parking. It will bind the rear end, and really make it a bitch at times. Its more annoying than anything else, and to be totally honest, I would rather run a spool than a lockrite. I can remember keeping my speed up to get into parking spots so I could just shove the clutch in and coast in. Trying to idle in made everything feel like it was binding up.

With the four Detroits I have run, I never had this issue at all. Even my 72' EB which had an old school Detoit Locker in the 9" with a "tight" setup for Nascar racing was much easier on this.

I would not hesitate to run a lunch box locker in the front at all and have never had an issue at all with them up front.

That being said, the older I get, the more desire I have for a smooth running, driving rig. So, I have leaned more towards the selectables in that respect. One of the reasons I wanted an Elocker in the rear of my 3rd gen 4runner. When I start the SAS in the spring, I will be running an ARB up front with it.

muddpigg · 11-15-2009, 08:02 PM

As for spinning the rear end around with a locker. I've seen it, but my 22re doesn't have the abundance of power to break loose the 12.5 width tires.

Scotty: I hear you on the smoothness, think thats one of the reasons for opting to a selectible. To park I'm feathering the clutch and gas like a pilot operating rudders. My wife has is intimidated by it, cause once it starts making it worse is easier than making it stop bucking.

krawnic · 11-15-2009, 11:54 PM

Im starting to lean towards an arb i think, they are just so expensive.
I plan on regearing also, but SAS is first, so that will be down the road.

muddpigg · 11-16-2009, 12:51 AM

dude, learn to wheel it grow as you go. When you can no longer safice on ifs the sas. I past sas'd rigs all the time on the trail. Its not the end all be all. Skill means more than money.

Put an aussie in the rear now , sas arb in too. Besides if you got such money why not just go land cruised?

Gnarly4X · 11-16-2009, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt16

If the rear is sliding around with the locker, put it in 4wd and be a little more careful with the skinny pedal. People make a mountain out of a molehill when talking about the drivability of a full time locker on slippery surfaces. This goes for all full timers.

I don't find my Aussie very "unpredictable" as I can predict what it will do given my input. Got that down in about a couple days of drivng.

I agree.

gNARLS.

krawnic · 11-16-2009, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddpigg

dude, learn to wheel it grow as you go. When you can no longer safice on ifs the sas. I past sas'd rigs all the time on the trail. Its not the end all be all. Skill means more than money.

Put an aussie in the rear now , sas arb in too. Besides if you got such money why not just go land cruised?

I understand that, but im not about to lock/regear the front end because I havent outgrown it yet. I know I'm going sas eventually, I'm just building slowly. I just want to be careful not to buy things I'll have to replace later on.

The main reason I'm thinking ARB now is because we get a fair amount of snow around here, and I don't want driving around town to be too much of a pain in the ass.

Gnarly4X · 11-16-2009, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krawnic

... The main reason I'm thinking ARB now is because we get a fair amount of snow around here, and I don't want driving around town to be too much of a pain in the ass.

For you, if you have the budget, the ARB selectable locker will be a good choice.

gNARLS.

muddpigg · 11-16-2009, 07:50 AM

The reason I say Aussie to begin with:

fairly easy install with hand tools only.

You don't change anything on the ring and pinion setup. Though would say it'd be a good idea to freshen up the carrier bearring preload

cost is less the $250 Then when you SAS put it in the front and boom

ARB:

much more complex set up,

ring gear is removed and installed on ARB carrier, so need to rechack and possibly change pinioin depth. If your going that far into it you might as well get new bearings and consider regearing

ARB locker $830 for the locker
ARB mini compressor $150
master build kit $110
new ring and pinion $230
Labor for pro set up $200

or $1349 for a Marlin built

If driving in snow is the concern as was mentioned put it in 4wd. I'll drive the locrite this winter too. Unless I get motived to swap in the ARB.

Good luck and enjoy which ever route you opt for.

woody69 · 11-16-2009, 09:33 AM

Well, I'll chime in late on this. Hopefully my experience will lend some information. I installed Lockrites 1 year and a half ago front and rear. I only put about 3,000 miles on them. The rear failed this summer. In went to full lock. I stored it and didn't pull it out until a month ago. I didn't want to repair it so I went with a full Detroit. And it sure made a huge difference driving it. I cannot even tell it is back there. Night and day compared to the Lockrite. I was on the fence too about a selectable, but like the idea of having the traction around town when the streets are wet pulling out into traffic on hills. Also just tried it in the mountains this past weekend. Love it. Didn't even really need to put it in 4wheel. The reliability sold me.

I do have the old carrier and Lockrite available if someone wants to shoot me an offer. Don't know what's wrong with it. It's locked. We didn't take the carrier apart. Probably just a spring which a rebuilt kit would fix.

Anthony

krawnic · 11-18-2009, 11:27 PM

Ahh, decisions, decisions. I figure I'll just go ahead and get the detriot, I gotta get this thing locked ASAP, I just hope it doesn't kill me in the snow.
If I was to lock the front, does that increase the chance of breaking an axle or anything?

11-15-2009, 01:46 AM	#2 (permalink)
brian2sun Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: The Mtns, CA Posts: 506	Detriots (and other lunchbox style lockers) are the cheapest, easiest to install, and work good, but are not selectable. ARBs are not cheap, but they work good and are selectable. Used elockers are usually pretty affordable (around $3-500), work good, and are selectable, but require basic fab skills to retro fit into a non-elocker diff. I decided to go with a rear ARB locker because I didn't have a shop or a welder to do the elocker retro fit myself and I couldn't find a used elocker at the time anyways. I wanted selectability because there are times when I want the diff open (like on a flat icy road), and other times I want it locked (like when I'm spinning 1 tire in deep snow). You get what you pay for, but whatever locker you choose, it'll be a huge improvement over your stock diff. __________________ 97 4Runner SR5 3.4L 4x4 305/70R16 Mastercraft M/Ts on black stock 6 spokes 2.5" suspension lift ARB Bullbar ARB rear locker 4.88s Factory wood grain dash My 4th Toyota truck "If guns kill people, then pens write novels."

11-15-2009, 07:26 AM	#4 (permalink)
ScottyC Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Windsor/Greeley, CO Posts: 1,179	Just to correct the lunch box type locker reference. A Detroit is not a lunch box type locker. Lunch box types just replace the spider gears inside the carrier with a ratcheting type locker. These include an Aussie Locker, Lockrite, Etc. A Detroit Locker (No Spin Locker) is a full carrier locker that replaces the whole carrier. IMO, they are much stronger and not nearly as harsh as the lunch box types, nor as noisy on the street. I have run Detroits in snow and ice in CO, and while they are not the same as an open diff, they also aren't as bad as everyone says either. I have run selectables, and have run a Detroit, lockrite, etc. While the selectable Elocker or ARB is the better option, its not the only way to go either. __________________ Scotty http://www.addictedoffroad.com/ 970-420-4198 Toyota Winch bumpers on SALE!

11-15-2009, 07:39 AM	#5 (permalink)
Gnarly4X Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Casa Grande, AZ, USA Posts: 372	There's lots opinions on this topic. In my experience (I've had two Toy trucks with Detroits and Lockrights). You can get the rear-end, or front end, to side slip with the lockers, but the advantages and improvement over open diffs outways the potential for side slip. With lockers, I just use a little less throttle in ice and snow. The Detroit is more expensive and more involved to install it, but it doesn't have the ratcheting and bucking that the Lockright style causes. I would only put in a Detroit in the rear over the Lockright. The ARBs are a good choice for control, but they are historically less reliable. The limited-slip type are another option, but they don't have the lock-up that a full locker has, so there is trade-off. Even if I lived in a snowy climate, I wouldn't hesitate to run a Detroit in the rear and a Lockright in the front. That's just my worthless opinion. gNARLS. Last edited by Gnarly4X; 11-15-2009 at 07:42 AM.

11-15-2009, 11:24 AM	#6 (permalink)
brian2sun Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: The Mtns, CA Posts: 506	Just to clarify, I meant Detroits are cheaper as in price, not in quality. And they're easier to install than ARBs and elockers because you don't have to wire them. And with the ARBs, you'll also have to mount the compressor and run the air line. Detroits do have a ratcheting mechanism, maybe they're not exactly the same as Aussies and Lockrights, but I thought that's what a lunchbox was - a ratchet. Am I wrong about this? My ARB is totally reliable. A lot of people will tell you that the worst thing about ARBs is that the air lines leak but mine never have. If they ever did it would take an entire 10 minutes or less to fix it with the repair kit that was supplied to me for free by ARB. __________________ 97 4Runner SR5 3.4L 4x4 305/70R16 Mastercraft M/Ts on black stock 6 spokes 2.5" suspension lift ARB Bullbar ARB rear locker 4.88s Factory wood grain dash My 4th Toyota truck "If guns kill people, then pens write novels."

11-15-2009, 11:35 AM	#7 (permalink)
brian2sun Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: The Mtns, CA Posts: 506	Ok, so lunchboxes install inside the diff carrier and Detroits replace the whole carrier (thanks ScottyC). I thought the ratcheting was what made it a lunchbox. __________________ 97 4Runner SR5 3.4L 4x4 305/70R16 Mastercraft M/Ts on black stock 6 spokes 2.5" suspension lift ARB Bullbar ARB rear locker 4.88s Factory wood grain dash My 4th Toyota truck "If guns kill people, then pens write novels."

11-15-2009, 11:39 AM	#9 (permalink)
toyNG Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Redlands, CA Posts: 564	For what it's worth, I feel my rear Lockright is very tolerable. The only times I ever notice it is in parking lots. I have a manual, so I just throw it into neutral when I make tight turns. I used heavy gear oil, as recommended by the manufacturer, and it is surprisingly quiet. I can only hear the ratcheting if I turn the radio off and really make an effort to listen. It seems that there is a big variation as to how people feel about the "tolerability' of lunchbox lockers. This is the only one I've ever had, so I don't have much experience, but I will say that it is much more tolerable than I expected it would be. However, I never have to drive in snow/ice. __________________ 1986 pickup 4x4 SR5, 5-spd, 33x10.5 BFG KM1 muds, 2" body lift, front and rear lockrights, 4.88s, 4.7 t-case with Dave'z twin stick, BudBuilt crossmember with 1" drivetrain lift, Downey grille guard and skid plate, TG sliders Still needed: rear bumper (Marlin, TG, or Dave'z)

11-15-2009, 12:43 PM	#11 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,395	Oh boy, I'll toss my two cents in on the subject. If you are not regearing and want to keep stock gears? Then go with the lunchbox locker. Detroit does make one or used to. It was the first lunchbox I know of, next came the Locrite. Locrite was the next generation and an article I read said it was designed by the same guy, so it is evolve in design and materials over the first and was made by Richmond. Next comes the Aussie which to according to the article I read was also designed by the same guy. Was an improvement over the other two lockers. It is reported to have a lower threshold to overcome so the outer wheel can turn facter than the inner easier. This is suppose to make it smoother in operation. I have a rear locrite now and a detroit in the front of my IFS, I believe it is a lunchbox design as that is all that was availible at the time. But honestly never cared enough to open it up to find out. I chose the locrite for the rear solely because of availiblity, many venders sale Locrites but only Aussie sales theirs and they were back ordered at the time. I have now driven this locrite for 3 years, including snow, ice, and rain. I have run two brands of tires at this time both 12.5 M/T, which is not the best tire for snow less than a foot and ice. The best thing I've found is to lock the hubs in and drop it in 4high. As any amount of throttle brings the rear around. I'm not against going slow but don't like being runover doing 15mph when everyone else is going 35mph. I keep the hubs locked drop in/out of 4wd when the roads clear and drop it in in parking lots and secondary streets. I've also heard about the harshness of the locrite and will say yes it can be. But I've learned to drive it and rarely have bucking and the like. I've stop trying to explain it to people who hear the racheting and now state "yeah, I'll have to check it." But if you can't learn to drive it you'll hate it. As it can be more temperemetal than a hormonal female but if you can as any one who has successfully managed a hormonal female it can be worth your while. The locrite third is soon to be replaced by an ARB third. When I SAS an Aussie is going in the front. The locrite third will probably get shelved just incase I need spare. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51278784

11-15-2009, 06:15 PM	#14 (permalink)
brian2sun Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: The Mtns, CA Posts: 506	Yeah it's not hard to get used to, definitely not a big deal. But I do prefer running my diff open on ice since I have the choice. __________________ 97 4Runner SR5 3.4L 4x4 305/70R16 Mastercraft M/Ts on black stock 6 spokes 2.5" suspension lift ARB Bullbar ARB rear locker 4.88s Factory wood grain dash My 4th Toyota truck "If guns kill people, then pens write novels."

11-15-2009, 06:52 PM	#16 (permalink)
ScottyC Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Windsor/Greeley, CO Posts: 1,179	The harshness I was referring to with the Lockrite is also based on parking lots and parking. It will bind the rear end, and really make it a bitch at times. Its more annoying than anything else, and to be totally honest, I would rather run a spool than a lockrite. I can remember keeping my speed up to get into parking spots so I could just shove the clutch in and coast in. Trying to idle in made everything feel like it was binding up. With the four Detroits I have run, I never had this issue at all. Even my 72' EB which had an old school Detoit Locker in the 9" with a "tight" setup for Nascar racing was much easier on this. I would not hesitate to run a lunch box locker in the front at all and have never had an issue at all with them up front. That being said, the older I get, the more desire I have for a smooth running, driving rig. So, I have leaned more towards the selectables in that respect. One of the reasons I wanted an Elocker in the rear of my 3rd gen 4runner. When I start the SAS in the spring, I will be running an ARB up front with it. __________________ Scotty http://www.addictedoffroad.com/ 970-420-4198 Toyota Winch bumpers on SALE!

11-15-2009, 08:02 PM	#17 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,395	As for spinning the rear end around with a locker. I've seen it, but my 22re doesn't have the abundance of power to break loose the 12.5 width tires. Scotty: I hear you on the smoothness, think thats one of the reasons for opting to a selectible. To park I'm feathering the clutch and gas like a pilot operating rudders. My wife has is intimidated by it, cause once it starts making it worse is easier than making it stop bucking. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51278784

11-15-2009, 11:54 PM	#18 (permalink)
krawnic Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: vancouver island BC Posts: 25	Im starting to lean towards an arb i think, they are just so expensive. I plan on regearing also, but SAS is first, so that will be down the road.

11-16-2009, 12:51 AM	#19 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,395	dude, learn to wheel it grow as you go. When you can no longer safice on ifs the sas. I past sas'd rigs all the time on the trail. Its not the end all be all. Skill means more than money. Put an aussie in the rear now , sas arb in too. Besides if you got such money why not just go land cruised? __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51278784

11-16-2009, 07:50 AM	#23 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,395	The reason I say Aussie to begin with: fairly easy install with hand tools only. You don't change anything on the ring and pinion setup. Though would say it'd be a good idea to freshen up the carrier bearring preload cost is less the $250 Then when you SAS put it in the front and boom ARB: much more complex set up, ring gear is removed and installed on ARB carrier, so need to rechack and possibly change pinioin depth. If your going that far into it you might as well get new bearings and consider regearing ARB locker $830 for the locker ARB mini compressor $150 master build kit $110 new ring and pinion $230 Labor for pro set up $200 or $1349 for a Marlin built If driving in snow is the concern as was mentioned put it in 4wd. I'll drive the locrite this winter too. Unless I get motived to swap in the ARB. Good luck and enjoy which ever route you opt for. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51278784

11-16-2009, 09:33 AM	#24 (permalink)
woody69 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 42	Well, I'll chime in late on this. Hopefully my experience will lend some information. I installed Lockrites 1 year and a half ago front and rear. I only put about 3,000 miles on them. The rear failed this summer. In went to full lock. I stored it and didn't pull it out until a month ago. I didn't want to repair it so I went with a full Detroit. And it sure made a huge difference driving it. I cannot even tell it is back there. Night and day compared to the Lockrite. I was on the fence too about a selectable, but like the idea of having the traction around town when the streets are wet pulling out into traffic on hills. Also just tried it in the mountains this past weekend. Love it. Didn't even really need to put it in 4wheel. The reliability sold me. I do have the old carrier and Lockrite available if someone wants to shoot me an offer. Don't know what's wrong with it. It's locked. We didn't take the carrier apart. Probably just a spring which a rebuilt kit would fix. Anthony

11-18-2009, 11:27 PM	#25 (permalink)
krawnic Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: vancouver island BC Posts: 25	Ahh, decisions, decisions. I figure I'll just go ahead and get the detriot, I gotta get this thing locked ASAP, I just hope it doesn't kill me in the snow. If I was to lock the front, does that increase the chance of breaking an axle or anything?

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