4Reigner

I have a 22RE in a 90 2door 4Runner, manual transmission that i recently bought. I have replaced the O2 sensor, the thermostat, and a new TPS, checked every vaccum hose, radiator flush, new oil and grease everywhere and had the throttle body off for cleansing, and the engine runs generally great. (I assume the rattly ticking is the timing chain, I'll get to that later....) I have read just about every post in here so far, and feel I have done my homework. I am no mechanic, but am able to do this thanks to you guys. As my first post I would like to thank you all for the information and the knowledge posted here!

One issue remains:
On startup, the engine runs a bit high, around 2000, then settles in at 700 when warm. When the engine reaches operating temperature, it has a flux going from 700 revs to 1000, then down to 800, up to 1100, 900-1200, 1000- 1300 and so on,escalating. The cycle is broken when driving, then it settles at 700 again, and everything is fine..

When I adjusted the TPS it ended up on around 600 Ohm on the VTA-E2 (prescribed is between 200 and 800) but I could not replicate the <2.3K Ohm on the IDL-E2 positions. The meter tells me 0.001, and nothing sensible on any combination of the contacts. (I have three TPS, one sticky broken, one 90 degree off, and one correct fit (all Denso)and in all I can get my VTA-E2 readings, but not the IDL-E2) I'm not so worried about not getting these readings, think it's weird, but it runs good, apart from the escalating flux when warm.

Any suggestions on what would cause this?

4Reigner

Idle screw is all the way down, where it belongs to keep the revs down. Dashpot is not entirely in use at the moment, but i don't see why that should affect a warm engine only?

whokrz

The idle screw should be about 2-3 turns out. If that raises the idle and causes it to lope it is generally because of a vacuum leak.
Your symptoms also sound like your TPS is out of adjustment causing it to hunt.

4Reigner

I'll have another go at the TPS, but as it looks the vacum leak might be related to the coolant in the exhaust, which means head gasket i assume.... Stand by for another Newbie-yanks-his-engine-apart-for-the-first-time thread.
Thank you though!

whokrz

Coolant in the exhaust is not good, are you sure that it is coolant and not water from condensation in the exhaust pipe? Hope its not the head gasket

4Reigner

Got a big nasty smelly white cloud when I fire her up in the morning, but soon as it gets hot, exhaust is invisible. Evidence of black in the pipe means running rich,which is find strange, seeing as my idle screw is down, and the TPS is (teoretically) set right.

The strange flux is there only once a day, when the engine is warmed up first time, if i go for a spinn in the afternoon, it doesn't happen and all is well.

Next is cleaning of the EGR and the entire EFI unit, fuel filter, to eliminate all other options why it's not running bang on, before i go for the headgasket.

The condensation theroy is a good one, how would i get this out, once and for all? Before I got the car it was standing for quite a while, so some buildup of condensation here and there is not surprising... Ran a 1\2 litre of Methyl hydrate in the previous tank, to see if that helped any, with anything.

Latest instalment is the PCV valve and grommet, (nasty thing to get out them things....) which lowered the rpms to around 500 when the car is level, and around a 1000 when idling on an incline! more strangeness.. Didn't think fuel injection would be influenced by the angle on which it runs?

At least i'm having fun!

tacho75

whokrz it's right it has to be 2 or3 turns out
your motor it's running rich thank to dad.
check the other screw on the air flow meter (on top of the air filter box)
engine light on? if it is on, put a paper clip on the terminals te1 and e1 to get codes
make sure you have the hoses hooked the right way on the air return valve cause dad
control the butterfly on the air flow meter
and the tps screws,the ones dad hold it right on the middle of the slots of the tps
i had a mayor problem with my 4runner but the mechanic (friend) and help from the forum helped me a lot
the link on whokrz reply help me fix all my problems this morning ........thanks whokrz thanks a lot....

4Reigner

If i turn it out (think i read 3,5 turns somewhere?) 2-3 turns, the revs will be way high, currently idling on 500 after new PCV. suppose turning the TPs down a couple of hundred ohms and the idle screw out 3 turns would mix things right?
AFM is attached to the lid of the air inntake, and i have no adjustment apparent on this? suppose it could be faulty, and due for replacement. Looks all clean and happy, guess the eleccy inside could be shot though.

Tried the paperclip trick, the CEL blinked over 70 times in rapid succession.No pauses, no recognisable patterns. Probably means "Abandon Ship" or something?

4Reigner

Got this pic in the album, I wonder also if all hoses are going to the right places, have seen a lot of pics of other 22re's with very different layouts.

4Reigner

Could coolant in the exhaust also mean the intake manifold gasket? Or is the solution exclusively head gasket related?

tacho75

the reasonn you see diferent layouts (emissions) here in california we are f$Y@k because of all the environmental guys.but if you want to adjust the screw on the
air flow meter,look at afm. and on the side of it you are going to see a little cap
go slow and drill the hole.. you are goin to se the screw under dat

tacho75

tacho75

i hope it helped
dat control the air and idle 2
i will post a detail pic 2morrow of my motor

4Reigner

Here in Vancouver we are also under the green thumb for emissions. No blocking of EGR's or such for us up here.. A pick of the adjuster for the AFM would be great, i have had a good session with it, but not been finding any adjusting! Thanks tacho!

tacho75

look at the picture on the tread and you see a black arrow pointing on the screw
the picture i just copy of your motor

4Reigner

Nice one, sorry didn't see that earlier. I'll have a tinker with it tomorrow..

I took the Ohm meter to the AFM, and the E2- VS gives me 800 ohms, not within spec, which is 200-400. This means the AFM has got issues, and need replacing, i assume. The other conections read fine.

I wish i had something more solid questions and problems, but the thing is, most of the time it all runs ok, I get around 350 km on the last tank, city traffic, I think this is good enough... Despite running rich, and eating a bit of coolant, I'm basically looking for an excuse to not jank the head gasket! Maybe try some K&W sealant and seafoam before...

whokrz

Common things that will make it run rich
Stuck flapper on air flow meter.
Bad air flow meter
Cold start system malfunctioning causing the cold start injector to run while hot.

Common things that will make it idle high or surge.
air by pass that is bad (located under the throttle body)
vacuum leak
You can use a section of hose to find vacuum leaks by holding one end against your ear.

I guess coolant could get int the exhaust by a bad intake manifold gasket.
It doesn't sound like a head gasket to me, it is running well except at idle. If it was head gasket I would thing it would run bad all of the time. You could do a compression check which should eliminate the head gasket.

If it was the head gasket it should be white all of the time. This sounds pretty normal, also it is normal for it to idle high on start up.

4Reigner

thank you whokrz! I believe also now that it is not the hg, and I thank you for it.

When I get the intake manifold back on, I'll do a lot more non-evasive testing on her. but it looks like i found a culprit in the intake, the last two inntake holes are shiny black and gunky, the two front ones are matt and sooty. means to me I got a leak into the two back intakes, and this is causing my coolant loss and white smoke. All the the spark plugs are white and dry.
So I'm replacing the Manifold gasket, would be a nice experience if my wiring harness wasnt weaved so thouroghly through the manifold.
New fuel filter is going in also, now that I'm in there.
I also found that one of the steel tubes that runs something around the block, from around the back had no gasket on it. Don't know what it is, but i'm sure it needs a gasket? think it might be my vaccum leak, hidden down the back and underneath.

I thank you all for contributing to my little rant here, I honestly have no idea about all this, never done it and never seen anything like it, so my venting of thoughts and your replys are valuable to me, makes me feel not so alone in this world! I'll try and stick everything back together, and cross my fingers!

https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?a...pictureid=7191

https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?a...pictureid=7192

whokrz

Your welcome 4Reigner, glad to help.

The white smoke on start up is normal, just not once it warms up. Also I would think the plugs would be fouled if coolant was getting into the cylinders.

This could be caused by the egr, it dumps exhaust gas into the back plenum right above cylinder #4. Does the gunk go up the tube into the plenum? If it does I would point to the egr, because I can't see how coolant would come from the head and travel up. Unfortunately when I rebuilt my engine I didn't pay to much attention to the inside of the tubes. I was mainly concerned with the mating surfaces, but I think I would have noticed if it was like that.

I don't know how coolant would get into tube #4 like in the picture, not to say that it is not coolant. Does the gunk smell like coolant?
To my knowledge the closest water jacket is between tube #2 and tube #3 where the intake bolts to the head. There is a hole in the head between #3 and #4 but I don't think there is water in it, I think it is just a blank hole in the casting of the head. Just hope its not to serious like a cracked head.

Make sure you don't go to tight on the bolts that go into the head. The head is aluminum and can strip out. I would put a gasket on both of the tubes that run in back of the engine. Also when you change the intake gasket make sure you replace the grommets and o-rings on your fuel injectors. Trying to reuse the old ones generally results in gas leaks.

4Reigner

Latest development:
I took off the intake manifold, in the hope of eliminating the potential vacum leak/coolant leak. After putting it back together, the surge at idle was even worse,and constant, so I failed completely. However, with a more constant problem, rather than one that only shows up every now and again, I had it down as a vacum leak for sure.
Checking the air inntake one day, and playing with the idle screw, i tapped the AFM with the end of the screwdriver a few times, and since she's been running great!
must be the alu/steel connection of the rod that holds the flap, can stick apparently. Now also the Ohm readings are within spec.
SO the problem is mayhaps solved!
Would be nice to get back to the love story..