gatordrag

Ok, I will try and cover everything.
1985 22R Factory Carburetor with LC EGR Delete.
Truck was running fine then it Sat for about 5 months without running it. After starting, it ran very sluggish. had to "feather" the gas pedal to get it to even get up to road speed. I would almost bog down. I would hear a "whooshing" Sound like it was sucking air when I would manually work the throttle. It would clear up if I held my hand over the carb, like it wasn't getting enough fuel. I pulled the Carb and noticed the bottom butter fly on the drivers side would not move. I attempted to free it up with some lube and carb cleaner to no avail. I replaced the carb on the truck, now when I crank it, it immediately goes to an extremely high idle. like the engine is about to blow. I am at a loss.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Just out of curiosity did you try and rebuild your old carb? Often time when rigs sit for months at a time the fuel begins to varnish. This ethanol blended fuel we get now didn't last nearly as long vs the old pure gas. It could be that you have a partial blockage in your fuel lines our maybe a jet was partially plugged in your old carb.

What carb did you put on it?

gatordrag

It still has the factory Asin Carb I did not try and rebuild it. The fuel was drained from it while it sat up. I was able to get it running, and idling, only it would make the "whooshing sound" when I would try and rev the engine and it had no power to get down the road unless I would feather the throttle to keep it running almost like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Then I removed the carb and noticed the bottom butterfly on the drivers side was stuck and not moving. I tried to free it up with cleaner and lubricant with no luck. I also tried tapping on it with a punch with no luck. Now that I have reinstalled the carb it immediately goes to an extreme high idle in fact its so high that I am scared to leave it running. Now tapping on the peddle does no good. Almost as if it were wide open at full throttle now.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

It's a mixed blessing for sure, blended fuel.

Sounds like it is overfueling, sticking float valve, and had or now has a vacuum leak, it should not run if you covered the carb. I'm not familiar enough with the mechanicals but the plates have gates (slots) in the armature that limit how and when they move in relation to throttle choke position.

83

So did you get the butterfly free or no? If no, then obviously it isn't going to run right.

I never used to be one of these people but I am now...Sounds like it's time for a Weber. Unless you're a carb expert, these things hit a point where you can spend hours researching and working on them, only to get them to run...pretty much no better. Even going with a professional rebuild can just bring more issues (that's been my experience). A Weber is a brand new, much more simple carb. Everything works.

Sounds like your carb is gummed up and jammed up. I'd either tear it down and clean/rebuild it, or invest in a Weber.

gatordrag

OK Update: I removed the carb again, wasn't able to free up the butterfly but I was able to tap it fully closed, it had a small opening, apparently that's what was causing the high idle, now the dog on thing is surging. Guess its time to get back to searching. I wouldn't mind upping to a weber if the funds were available. Just no way right now and need to get it running well enough to drive it. I am uploading a video now to see if I can let you guys hear what it is doing now. It Ran great 5 months ago. Aggravation at it finest.

83

Tear that carb apart and clean it

Sometimes things like this involve soaking the stuck part overnight. Obviously if you can't get the butterfly to work correctly it won't run right. And if it got gummed up, you know other parts/passages got gummed up too.

gatordrag

Sounds like a Pro Stock minus about 700 HP. LOL it wouldn't bother me if the HP was with the Lope, But Nope....
FYI the Sight glass on the fuel bowl is running right below the top of the brass cover. IDK if that makes since or if you can see it in the Video

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

There is enough pictures Here to either fix it or turn it into a hopeless pile of parts

gatordrag

I have reviewed that same thread for two weeks now... LOL I am about to go and trouble shoot it a little more. I am just stumped at why it idles so high when I place my hand over the carb. Like its getting too much air or not enough fuel. Fuel Lines crossed?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Hate say it but you might have to put a rebuild kit in it and never really know what got damaged. Carburetors are one of those places a stray bit of lint will throw everything spinning. Ignoring any linkage binding that may be going on..

The symptoms are it's running rich with a high idle, if you choke off the carbs air intake it not only doesn't die but picks up RPM as it leans out.

It has to be getting that air somewhere to keep running so something has to be plumbed wrong or leaking. The "gas filter", that is the multi port vacuum connection on the end of the intake, has several lines attached trace these all out to the actuators and check for vacuum leaks. All those lines are down stream of the throttle plates.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

For sure a good cleaning and reassembly.

And I just noticed you lubricated something, that is generally a very bad idea it should all be clean and dry bronze is considered self lubricating, adding oils and such just grab dirt or bake on and gumm stuff up.

gatordrag

Where do you guys get all the replacement screws that you strip out when rebuilding a carb? LOL I must have stripped 3 so far... I will have to drill them out.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

If you only stripped the head can you grab them with vice grips? Seems safer than trying to drill it out first thing. The hoping the easy-out doesn't break. Soak it in some penetrating oil. I like PB Blaster myself. I let it soak at least 2 days if possible. This helps me so much to do this before I try and pull any screw or bolt. Sometimes you don't have time. But if given the time I'm I use it.

To disassemble I use an impact when possible. I seem to strip less screws that way. Also you can try putting a screwdriver in the striker bit and gently tapping the screw head thats stripped. Sometimes this will loosen it if its "frozen". Be careful not to hit it to hard as usually your dealing with a steel screw in an aluminum housing so you can damage the threads

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Size matters, I find if something starts to strip I probably have the wrong size screwdriver. Screws love me, not at all. I have 1/4" drive screwdriver with the interchangeable bits, I use this with a wrench to lever so I can concentrate on putting pressure on the end of the screwdriver.

gatordrag

Only had to drill out two of them and EZ out them. One is the large screw on the bottom side of the carb. (of the Three). I am sure someplace like Fastenal has metric machine screws. I will soak it tonight while I wait for the rebuild kit to come in. I don't know if it possible to get other parts for these carbs but I totally destroyed the little spring and fitting on the side of the secondary bottom butterfly that that was frozen. Pics to follow

gatordrag

This is what it looked like 5 months ago purring like a kitten.
0

This is what she looks like tonight.


Now I just hope I can find this bottom piece of the carb that the secondary flap is still free moving.

gatordrag

Update: Started installing rebuild kit (no instructions makes for a nice guessing game) and have another bottom section coming to replace the one I destroyed during disassembly. Hopefully I can get her running again. Really do miss driving her.





And NOW WE WAIT!

83

I'll be interested to see how your rebuild goes. I never had any luck...

gatordrag

Got the carb rebuilt, checked timing, still the same.... running like pooo except now it will stay idling if I keep the carb from
getting too much air. Here is vid of it sucking air. Sorry it's so dark. Anyone have any other ideas? https://youtu.be/3uAUdcHdR-M