Tow capacity on 2004 v8 2wheel drive with tow package
07-10-2006, 07:01 PM
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Tow capacity on 2004 v8 2wheel drive with tow package
I have a 2004, 2 wheel drive, V8 with a tow package. The limit says 7300 pounds.
I have a 3500 pound boat + 500 extra pounds + 1000 pounds of trailer so we're looking at 5000 pounds.
I think the 4Runner itself weighs 4500 pounds.
Does this vehicle have extra tow features like transmission cooler, better suspension, brakes, etc????
How safe would it be to two ~5000 pounds if the vehicle weights 4500 pounds?
Advice?
thx
I have a 3500 pound boat + 500 extra pounds + 1000 pounds of trailer so we're looking at 5000 pounds.
I think the 4Runner itself weighs 4500 pounds.
Does this vehicle have extra tow features like transmission cooler, better suspension, brakes, etc????
How safe would it be to two ~5000 pounds if the vehicle weights 4500 pounds?
Advice?
thx
07-10-2006, 08:09 PM
#2
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You should not only look at the Towing capacity, but the Combined GVWR, and you should proabably see how it sets rigged up. You may want a weight distributing hitch. I would not doubt that it does have a transmission cooler, but I doubt it has an integrated brake controller, or suspension upgrades. The tougher suspension would have been with the 4wd. Like I said earlier, if it sags alot you should take some weight off the tounge (which you can't really do with a boat) so a weight distributing hitch would be great.
07-11-2006, 12:00 PM
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you should be fine. I tow a toy hauler with mine. The total GVWR is 12,000 lbs for the v8 models. I had the trailer and 4runner weight and it was 9400 lbs when it was loaded whith camping stuff. Just dont expect to get any where in a hurry.
07-12-2006, 04:48 AM
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So you guys would feel comfortable towing a boat and trailer that weighs 5,000 pounds from Atlanta to Tampa - 500 miles? (It's downhill all the way there, ha ha)
How much would the weight distribution hitch benefit me?
How much would the weight distribution hitch benefit me?
07-13-2006, 07:23 AM
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You will be stopping often for gas. I can get about 200 -240 a tank while towing, depending of how the weather is (wind etc). The computer is pretty accurate, when it says 0 you will run out of gas while towing. I towed my trailer to Glamis and back which is about 350 miles each way a few months ago. I would not be worried if i were you. If you going to do it often, i would recommend a set of Air Lift air bags. I have them, and it helps alot while towing. Here is a photo of what i tow to give you an idea.
07-20-2006, 07:35 AM
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New member, first post!
I have the AWD V8 '04 and regularly tow 5000+ lbs. I tow a boat (~4000lbs dry w/o trailer, ~5500 with trailer and gear), and alt haul a tractor on a different trailer (every bit of 6500 lbs!)
Absolute must: Electronic brake controller!!!
If you have the tow package, your rig should have a white plug-in connector under driver's dash, to left of steering wheel. Mine was zip tied up and I had to cut the zip tie (or tape, don't remember) for the wires to extend.
I use the Prodigy from Tekonsha. It is true inertial, mounting position insensitive, has a removal option via the slide-in bracket, and can be ordered with "no-cut, plug-in" cable for your vehicle. I can post picture of mounting if you want, not many places to put one.
The plug in cable is the same as the one supplied with your tow package- mine was in the glove box- except that it has a plug on both ends instead of one end being bare wires.
For me, the 3 different levels of boost are helpful as I also haul other items, as well as an empty trailer and it is nice to not change the adjustment, simply set a higher or lower boost depending upon load.
FWIW, I also use a carabiner (sp?) clip to connect the breakaway cable to the slot on the hitch, so no drilling or additional mounts needed.
Also, get used to using the manual shift feature of your 5 speed auto, else your foot will be deep into gas guzzle territory. The engine braking is nice, too- just don't over-rev but use brakes and downshifting together not to overwork either.
MPG? Well, highway trip w/o trailer about 20-22mpg, highway with trailer (big gates/ramps in rear catch a lot of air) ~14-16mpg, stop-n-go fully loaded 10-14mpg (although up hill right after a reset it's been down to 8! for short periods).
I can get a couple extra mpg if I settle for 40-50mph, it's the 55-70mph that REALLY cuts the MPG! Sometimes I am in a hurry :-)
Now, if I could only get SC- Ugh!! Could use the extra horses....
Hope this helps. Anything else about towing, hauling, chains (RUD Grip 4x4 are best I found), just holler.
Have fun and bring lots of gas $$.
Forgot to mention, you may have to order the "Tacoma" plug for the brake controller, they're the same.
-JC
I have the AWD V8 '04 and regularly tow 5000+ lbs. I tow a boat (~4000lbs dry w/o trailer, ~5500 with trailer and gear), and alt haul a tractor on a different trailer (every bit of 6500 lbs!)
Absolute must: Electronic brake controller!!!
If you have the tow package, your rig should have a white plug-in connector under driver's dash, to left of steering wheel. Mine was zip tied up and I had to cut the zip tie (or tape, don't remember) for the wires to extend.
I use the Prodigy from Tekonsha. It is true inertial, mounting position insensitive, has a removal option via the slide-in bracket, and can be ordered with "no-cut, plug-in" cable for your vehicle. I can post picture of mounting if you want, not many places to put one.
The plug in cable is the same as the one supplied with your tow package- mine was in the glove box- except that it has a plug on both ends instead of one end being bare wires.
For me, the 3 different levels of boost are helpful as I also haul other items, as well as an empty trailer and it is nice to not change the adjustment, simply set a higher or lower boost depending upon load.
FWIW, I also use a carabiner (sp?) clip to connect the breakaway cable to the slot on the hitch, so no drilling or additional mounts needed.
Also, get used to using the manual shift feature of your 5 speed auto, else your foot will be deep into gas guzzle territory. The engine braking is nice, too- just don't over-rev but use brakes and downshifting together not to overwork either.
MPG? Well, highway trip w/o trailer about 20-22mpg, highway with trailer (big gates/ramps in rear catch a lot of air) ~14-16mpg, stop-n-go fully loaded 10-14mpg (although up hill right after a reset it's been down to 8! for short periods).
I can get a couple extra mpg if I settle for 40-50mph, it's the 55-70mph that REALLY cuts the MPG! Sometimes I am in a hurry :-)
Now, if I could only get SC- Ugh!! Could use the extra horses....
Hope this helps. Anything else about towing, hauling, chains (RUD Grip 4x4 are best I found), just holler.
Have fun and bring lots of gas $$.
Forgot to mention, you may have to order the "Tacoma" plug for the brake controller, they're the same.
-JC
Last edited by DiskDoctr; 07-20-2006 at 07:42 AM.
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07-20-2006, 07:40 AM
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Matchbox car surprise
TRD2001,
From your pic, you have the same problem I do. My 4Runner looks like a matchbox car when towing my boat on the trailer...:-)
BUT- it does surprise my bowtie-buddies (Chevy is fine, really) when they ride with me and the load, though. "This thing hauls pretty good!"
-DiskDoctr
From your pic, you have the same problem I do. My 4Runner looks like a matchbox car when towing my boat on the trailer...:-)
BUT- it does surprise my bowtie-buddies (Chevy is fine, really) when they ride with me and the load, though. "This thing hauls pretty good!"
-DiskDoctr
07-20-2006, 09:20 AM
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Good Q's so posted this for others to read...
Yes, the white plug you describe is the one I am talking about.
You don't need the plug supplied with the vehicle, you already found out what it looks like near the brake pedal.
This plug interfaces directly to the braking system and eliminates need to splice any wires and integrates directly into braking system, sometimes problems with ABS otherwise.
Just checked, this link still works. I chose the Prodigy because it was the best. Pricey, but why have a $40k vehicle, $2500 vehicle, and $15k boat or whatever at risk because I was cheap?
http://www.etrailer.com/y-22.aspx
Make sure your trailer has the same 7-blade connector, else the brakes don't work the same. I bought an adapter for about $12 at Tractor Supply (TSC) to let me pull small bass-boat trailer with 4-pin connector (no brakes). It just plugs in when I need it and stores in the vehicle when not needed.
If your trailer only has the 4pin connector, then you may have electric brake issues. The controller can't help as the 4pin is brake lights (not controlled by a separate brake line using the controller). The trailer may have the brakes hooked to the brake lights of the trailer, but with the weights you mention, MUST change for safety.
It's not really hard. Just look to see on your trailer where the brakes attach to the connector. Sometimes people change connectors on trailers because they don't have the right one on their rig. Better to go the other way.
I use a 12v power supply (you could use a car battery) to test brakes. Jack up a trailer wheel and spin it by hand, put negative from battery into the 4pin connector ground (white) and use another wire to touch each of the other connectors one at a time until the wheel stops spinning (brakes). That's the brake line. Make sure you are testing on the trailer only, NOT the vehicle, and it is NOT connected to the vehicle. Just thought I should mention that :-)
If someone changed your trailer, possibly wires spliced together on trailer side onto your brake lights. Brake wires should be blue, but not all are standard.
Your plug on the 4R should be labeled on the cover for wiring. I can send you a diagram if you need it, but some don't follow the standards.
The break away cable I mention is the cable one, not the chains. It is attached to a battery on the trailer side (google "break away kit", or visit TSC) to apply trailer breaks if the trailer every breaks loose. Simple pull switch- if trailer pulls away from vehicle, cable pulls, battery applies power to breaks, trailer stops.
Lots of info, so ask if I can help more or if I didn't answer something...
-JC
Originally Posted by coopma
DiskDoctr,
Thx much for the advice. Help with a few questions.
I have an SR5.
1) Does it have AWD or 2 wheel drive?
I do see a white plug in cable about 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch up under the dash right by the emergency brake pedal.
2) Is that the plug in for the Progidy?
3) What exactly does that do?
4) Where can I buy the Prodigy from Tekonsha?
I bought my 4Runner used so I don't think I have a plug in cable like you had in your glove I don't think. I did buy a plug that goes in the plug by the trailer hitch. It is Round with connectors on the end that goes in the vehicle and the other end is rectangular and has ~4 prongs that to to the (older style) hitch plug in for my trailer.
5) What is a carabiner clip? I hook my breakaway cables to the two rings on either side of where the ball unit goes in.
<snip>
Thx much for the advice. Help with a few questions.
I have an SR5.
1) Does it have AWD or 2 wheel drive?
I do see a white plug in cable about 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch up under the dash right by the emergency brake pedal.
2) Is that the plug in for the Progidy?
3) What exactly does that do?
4) Where can I buy the Prodigy from Tekonsha?
I bought my 4Runner used so I don't think I have a plug in cable like you had in your glove I don't think. I did buy a plug that goes in the plug by the trailer hitch. It is Round with connectors on the end that goes in the vehicle and the other end is rectangular and has ~4 prongs that to to the (older style) hitch plug in for my trailer.
5) What is a carabiner clip? I hook my breakaway cables to the two rings on either side of where the ball unit goes in.
<snip>
You don't need the plug supplied with the vehicle, you already found out what it looks like near the brake pedal.
This plug interfaces directly to the braking system and eliminates need to splice any wires and integrates directly into braking system, sometimes problems with ABS otherwise.
Just checked, this link still works. I chose the Prodigy because it was the best. Pricey, but why have a $40k vehicle, $2500 vehicle, and $15k boat or whatever at risk because I was cheap?
http://www.etrailer.com/y-22.aspx
Make sure your trailer has the same 7-blade connector, else the brakes don't work the same. I bought an adapter for about $12 at Tractor Supply (TSC) to let me pull small bass-boat trailer with 4-pin connector (no brakes). It just plugs in when I need it and stores in the vehicle when not needed.
If your trailer only has the 4pin connector, then you may have electric brake issues. The controller can't help as the 4pin is brake lights (not controlled by a separate brake line using the controller). The trailer may have the brakes hooked to the brake lights of the trailer, but with the weights you mention, MUST change for safety.
It's not really hard. Just look to see on your trailer where the brakes attach to the connector. Sometimes people change connectors on trailers because they don't have the right one on their rig. Better to go the other way.
I use a 12v power supply (you could use a car battery) to test brakes. Jack up a trailer wheel and spin it by hand, put negative from battery into the 4pin connector ground (white) and use another wire to touch each of the other connectors one at a time until the wheel stops spinning (brakes). That's the brake line. Make sure you are testing on the trailer only, NOT the vehicle, and it is NOT connected to the vehicle. Just thought I should mention that :-)
If someone changed your trailer, possibly wires spliced together on trailer side onto your brake lights. Brake wires should be blue, but not all are standard.
Your plug on the 4R should be labeled on the cover for wiring. I can send you a diagram if you need it, but some don't follow the standards.
The break away cable I mention is the cable one, not the chains. It is attached to a battery on the trailer side (google "break away kit", or visit TSC) to apply trailer breaks if the trailer every breaks loose. Simple pull switch- if trailer pulls away from vehicle, cable pulls, battery applies power to breaks, trailer stops.
Lots of info, so ask if I can help more or if I didn't answer something...
-JC
Last edited by DiskDoctr; 07-20-2006 at 10:11 AM.
08-14-2006, 11:44 AM
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Prodigy from Tekonsha
Question. Is the Prodigy from Tekonsha around $129????
I looked on Google.com and am wondering if changing this trailer and 4Runner to electric bracking is a $200 or $2000 solutiion.
Trailer just has drum breaks and break away cord now.
================
PRODIGY® is the most advanced and intelligent approach to trailer brake controls. PRODIGY®, requiring no manual leveling, is a technological breakthrough among inertia-activated brake controls. Equipped with a self-adjusting sensing device similar to the one used in guided-missile technology to allow for easy, flexible installation — from nearly horizontal to nearly vertical — PRODIGY® constantly adjusts itself to the position of the tow vehicle.
Prodigy® Features
Applies power to the trailer brakes in proportion to vehicle's deceleration.
No level adjustment necessary - it adjusts itself to varying terrain as you drive.
The only inertial control that works proportionally in reverse - great for backing into tough spots.
Digital display depicts voltage delivery to trailer during braking.
Continual diagnostics check for proper connection, shorted magnet condition and much more.
Exclusive "boost" feature gives users the ability to apply more initial trailer braking power when towing heavier trailers.
Power-saving mode reduces drain on battery when vehicle is not in use.
Pre-assembled wire harness for simple hookup.
Unique pocket mount allows for flexible mounting options.
Quick and easy disconnect feature allows user to remove and store the control when not in use.
Made for up to four-axle trailer brake systems.
Meets N.H.T.S.A. regulations regarding tow vehicle/trailer light activation.
Limited lifetime** warranty.
I looked on Google.com and am wondering if changing this trailer and 4Runner to electric bracking is a $200 or $2000 solutiion.
Trailer just has drum breaks and break away cord now.
================
PRODIGY® is the most advanced and intelligent approach to trailer brake controls. PRODIGY®, requiring no manual leveling, is a technological breakthrough among inertia-activated brake controls. Equipped with a self-adjusting sensing device similar to the one used in guided-missile technology to allow for easy, flexible installation — from nearly horizontal to nearly vertical — PRODIGY® constantly adjusts itself to the position of the tow vehicle.
Prodigy® Features
Applies power to the trailer brakes in proportion to vehicle's deceleration.
No level adjustment necessary - it adjusts itself to varying terrain as you drive.
The only inertial control that works proportionally in reverse - great for backing into tough spots.
Digital display depicts voltage delivery to trailer during braking.
Continual diagnostics check for proper connection, shorted magnet condition and much more.
Exclusive "boost" feature gives users the ability to apply more initial trailer braking power when towing heavier trailers.
Power-saving mode reduces drain on battery when vehicle is not in use.
Pre-assembled wire harness for simple hookup.
Unique pocket mount allows for flexible mounting options.
Quick and easy disconnect feature allows user to remove and store the control when not in use.
Made for up to four-axle trailer brake systems.
Meets N.H.T.S.A. regulations regarding tow vehicle/trailer light activation.
Limited lifetime** warranty.
08-14-2006, 11:52 AM
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Coopma,
Yes, about $129 for the controller. I think it was around $10-$15 (maybe less) for the adapter cable for the 4Runner. Pricey for the cable, but a VERY neat and tidy solution with no cutting and guaranteed correct connections.
You said the trailer has "drum brakes." Are they electric (run by vehicle wire) or hydraulic (probably uses "surge brakes", which is a sliding ball coupler on the trailer with a hydraulic cylinder that you can probably see from below, if it is open)
I recently converted my boat trailer from hydraulic to electric because it is heavy and I wanted the extra stability and control. I run it exclusively in fresh water, so it's okay. If backing it into salt water, should stay with hydraulic. Electric over hydraulic is best for that, but very expensive...
-DiskDoctr
Yes, about $129 for the controller. I think it was around $10-$15 (maybe less) for the adapter cable for the 4Runner. Pricey for the cable, but a VERY neat and tidy solution with no cutting and guaranteed correct connections.
You said the trailer has "drum brakes." Are they electric (run by vehicle wire) or hydraulic (probably uses "surge brakes", which is a sliding ball coupler on the trailer with a hydraulic cylinder that you can probably see from below, if it is open)
I recently converted my boat trailer from hydraulic to electric because it is heavy and I wanted the extra stability and control. I run it exclusively in fresh water, so it's okay. If backing it into salt water, should stay with hydraulic. Electric over hydraulic is best for that, but very expensive...
-DiskDoctr
08-14-2006, 06:48 PM
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Trailer
Thx for all the advice.
I do have a trailer with 4 wheels and is has drum brakes and is hydraulic. I put fluid in it. It was bone dry.
It has the "surge brakes", which is a sliding ball coupler on the trailer with a hydraulic cylinder that you can probably see from below, if it is open)I will have to look.
If I can upgrade my trailer with the electronic brake device for ~$200 so the trailer's brakes will brake when I hit the brake pedal that would be great.
I do have the plug with 4 prongs on the trailer and my 4R has the round type.
Sounds too easy. What am I missing?
I do have a trailer with 4 wheels and is has drum brakes and is hydraulic. I put fluid in it. It was bone dry.
It has the "surge brakes", which is a sliding ball coupler on the trailer with a hydraulic cylinder that you can probably see from below, if it is open)I will have to look.
If I can upgrade my trailer with the electronic brake device for ~$200 so the trailer's brakes will brake when I hit the brake pedal that would be great.
I do have the plug with 4 prongs on the trailer and my 4R has the round type.
Sounds too easy. What am I missing?
08-14-2006, 07:05 PM
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Surge brakes automatically compensate for trailer weight (the more the trailer pushes forward on the hitch, the more braking power is applied), but you're in trouble if the trailer starts to come around, because the brakes will back off and there's no manual control like with electric brakes where you can hold them on all the way.
08-14-2006, 07:09 PM
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Coopma,
From Tractor Supply Company (TSC), I bought new hubs with electric brakes for ~ $50 per wheel (~$200), added a breakaway kit w/integrated charger for about $40, and ran new wires for brakes using rolls of #10 wire I already had.
I chose to run 4 separate wires, one to each brake and a separate ground wire to each as well. Some people run a ground wire/strap from each wheel to the trailer frame only and use one or two wires for all four wheels.
I don't like to depend upon the trailer frame for my ground, but I also do connect my ground wires to the trailer with a small pigtail near the front of the trailer.
The ground is supplied from the vehicle's 7 blade plug AND the hitch and is run to each brake AND the trailer frame. This works well for new or existing lights, as many simply ground through the mounting screw.
It wasn't diffucult, but took a little time. The new hubs also come with new bearing sets, so it is a nice "update" for the trailer. I added "bearing buddies" and caps since I back the boat into water. I don't use bearing buddies on my 7k non-boat trailer, as it isn't really necessary. The bb's hold more grease and a pump or two helps keep the water out of the bearings.
Just be sure to follow the wiring diagram on your receiver plug of your vehicle, as there are several variations floating around. I found a few conflicting diagrams when I was collecting info.
Using a 12v battery to test the brakes and plug wiring (one wire to the ground of the trailer end and touch whichever other thing you are testing, ie brakes, left turn, etc) is a very good idea to prevent an accidental problem that may hurt your vehicle or wiring.
I chose to run my wiring inside my trailer frame on the boat trailer (box frame) and it is just inside the U-channel on my 7k trailer. Be sure to fasten all the wires with zip ties or the like to the trailer frame to keep them from getting snagged, but BE SURE to leave enough slack at the wheels for the suspension to work without pulling the wires. I used stiff wire from a roll I had around to run the wire, but a wire snake would work well, too. They can be had at Harbor Freight pretty cheap.
My 7k trailer was prewired and was too short at one wheel, which broke off after about 2 years.
I use inline splices (blue, piercing type) and wrap them in black tape for standard joints away from the road, but use plastic splices with integrated heatshrink tubing/glue for the brake lines and exposed areas. They are available at most Lowe's, but not at some...
FYI- if the wiring or lights on your trailer are in poor shape, I think a new wiring kit was something like $30 at Advanced Auto and included lights and wires. I just cut the 4 prong ends off the harness and wired it to my 7 blade connector.
I can explain further any of the components if you like.
My job took a few days, as I also upgraded the suspension to 4500lbs per axle and had the wrong mounting hardware for the springs and spent a day to find a shop to make new ones. Oh, and I had to work with the boat still on the trailer
Hope this helps.
-DiskDoctr
From Tractor Supply Company (TSC), I bought new hubs with electric brakes for ~ $50 per wheel (~$200), added a breakaway kit w/integrated charger for about $40, and ran new wires for brakes using rolls of #10 wire I already had.
I chose to run 4 separate wires, one to each brake and a separate ground wire to each as well. Some people run a ground wire/strap from each wheel to the trailer frame only and use one or two wires for all four wheels.
I don't like to depend upon the trailer frame for my ground, but I also do connect my ground wires to the trailer with a small pigtail near the front of the trailer.
The ground is supplied from the vehicle's 7 blade plug AND the hitch and is run to each brake AND the trailer frame. This works well for new or existing lights, as many simply ground through the mounting screw.
It wasn't diffucult, but took a little time. The new hubs also come with new bearing sets, so it is a nice "update" for the trailer. I added "bearing buddies" and caps since I back the boat into water. I don't use bearing buddies on my 7k non-boat trailer, as it isn't really necessary. The bb's hold more grease and a pump or two helps keep the water out of the bearings.
Just be sure to follow the wiring diagram on your receiver plug of your vehicle, as there are several variations floating around. I found a few conflicting diagrams when I was collecting info.
Using a 12v battery to test the brakes and plug wiring (one wire to the ground of the trailer end and touch whichever other thing you are testing, ie brakes, left turn, etc) is a very good idea to prevent an accidental problem that may hurt your vehicle or wiring.
I chose to run my wiring inside my trailer frame on the boat trailer (box frame) and it is just inside the U-channel on my 7k trailer. Be sure to fasten all the wires with zip ties or the like to the trailer frame to keep them from getting snagged, but BE SURE to leave enough slack at the wheels for the suspension to work without pulling the wires. I used stiff wire from a roll I had around to run the wire, but a wire snake would work well, too. They can be had at Harbor Freight pretty cheap.
My 7k trailer was prewired and was too short at one wheel, which broke off after about 2 years.
I use inline splices (blue, piercing type) and wrap them in black tape for standard joints away from the road, but use plastic splices with integrated heatshrink tubing/glue for the brake lines and exposed areas. They are available at most Lowe's, but not at some...
FYI- if the wiring or lights on your trailer are in poor shape, I think a new wiring kit was something like $30 at Advanced Auto and included lights and wires. I just cut the 4 prong ends off the harness and wired it to my 7 blade connector.
I can explain further any of the components if you like.
My job took a few days, as I also upgraded the suspension to 4500lbs per axle and had the wrong mounting hardware for the springs and spent a day to find a shop to make new ones. Oh, and I had to work with the boat still on the trailer
Hope this helps.
-DiskDoctr
Last edited by DiskDoctr; 08-14-2006 at 07:17 PM.
08-14-2006, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dz
Surge brakes automatically compensate for trailer weight (the more the trailer pushes forward on the hitch, the more braking power is applied), but you're in trouble if the trailer starts to come around, because the brakes will back off and there's no manual control like with electric brakes where you can hold them on all the way.
I towed a U-haul trailer with surge brakes a few years ago over an uneven section of Rt70 South of Breezewood,PA towards MD. It was a long, downhill section and the surge brakes were working fine and holding the trailer back as normal.
BUT- every bump or bounce, the brakes would release, then the trailer free rolls and then engages the brakes much harder and jerks the hitch. I also found that it was difficult to coast downhill, as the brakes were almost constantly engaged. I had to constantly give it gas and "pull" it downhill. This was on my wife's AWD minivan, which did not have a brake controller.
Obviously, this convinced me of the electric brakes that towed extremely well and smoothly. That's when I bought my own trailer and researched the brake controllers. Yeah, and of course, I had to buy the 4Runner to tow it.
IMHO, hydraulic brakes are mostly inexpensive and trouble-free as far as making sure a vehicle can properly attach (no wiring needed), and are great for salt-water environments that would kill electric brakes, but offer much less control unless integrated into the vehicle's system like a tractor trailer (yes, air brakes are actually a type of hydraulic system), or electric over hydraulic.
If I was hauling something relatively light for my vehicle and the brakes were in good shape, I probably would leave the hydraulic on it and just be careful. But with the amount of weight (relative to the vehicle), I would convert to electric, for all the same reasons I did with my boat trailer.
You will love the way the electric system handles with that controller. There is no comparison to the stability and control, especially hard braking or braking on corners, if using the boost.
The "Boost" is actually a momentary surge of braking before adjusting to inertial braking, allowing your trailer to keep the tounge stretched and preventing loss of control.
You'll see what I mean- night and day difference!
Good luck.
-DiskDoctr
Last edited by DiskDoctr; 08-14-2006 at 07:36 PM.
08-14-2006, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DiskDoctr
I towed a U-haul trailer with surge brakes a few years ago over an uneven section of Rt70 South of Breezewood,PA towards MD. It was a long, downhill section and the surge brakes were working fine and holding the trailer back as normal.
BUT- every bump or bounce, the brakes would release, then the trailer free rolls and then engages the brakes much harder and jerks the hitch. I also found that it was difficult to coast downhill, as the brakes were almost constantly engaged. I had to constantly give it gas and "pull" it downhill. This was on my wife's AWD minivan, which did not have a brake controller.
BUT- every bump or bounce, the brakes would release, then the trailer free rolls and then engages the brakes much harder and jerks the hitch. I also found that it was difficult to coast downhill, as the brakes were almost constantly engaged. I had to constantly give it gas and "pull" it downhill. This was on my wife's AWD minivan, which did not have a brake controller.
12-23-2006, 06:07 PM
#17
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Towing
Hey,
I was reading through all the replies on this again. Thanks for all the advice.
Wow, I was thinking of towing my 4000 lb boat on my tandem trailer that has surge brakes from Atlanta to Panama City Beach, Florida. It is a 7 hour drive without a trailer.
Now I'm thinking I ought to just rent a boat in Panama City Beach because of the risks and pain in the Axx factor of hauling the boat that distance with all the jerking.
How much would it cost to upgrade to an Electronic brake controller and then pay someone to upgrade my surge brakes to Electric brakes on my current trailer?
What else would I need?
I was reading through all the replies on this again. Thanks for all the advice.
Wow, I was thinking of towing my 4000 lb boat on my tandem trailer that has surge brakes from Atlanta to Panama City Beach, Florida. It is a 7 hour drive without a trailer.
Now I'm thinking I ought to just rent a boat in Panama City Beach because of the risks and pain in the Axx factor of hauling the boat that distance with all the jerking.
How much would it cost to upgrade to an Electronic brake controller and then pay someone to upgrade my surge brakes to Electric brakes on my current trailer?
What else would I need?
12-23-2006, 08:10 PM
#18
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Location: Western PA
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Hey,
I was reading through all the replies on this again. Thanks for all the advice.
Wow, I was thinking of towing my 4000 lb boat on my tandem trailer that has surge brakes from Atlanta to Panama City Beach, Florida. It is a 7 hour drive without a trailer.
Now I'm thinking I ought to just rent a boat in Panama City Beach because of the risks and pain in the Axx factor of hauling the boat that distance with all the jerking.
How much would it cost to upgrade to an Electronic brake controller and then pay someone to upgrade my surge brakes to Electric brakes on my current trailer?
What else would I need?
I was reading through all the replies on this again. Thanks for all the advice.
Wow, I was thinking of towing my 4000 lb boat on my tandem trailer that has surge brakes from Atlanta to Panama City Beach, Florida. It is a 7 hour drive without a trailer.
Now I'm thinking I ought to just rent a boat in Panama City Beach because of the risks and pain in the Axx factor of hauling the boat that distance with all the jerking.
How much would it cost to upgrade to an Electronic brake controller and then pay someone to upgrade my surge brakes to Electric brakes on my current trailer?
What else would I need?
Also, if you are going to put the boat into saltwater, you don't want electric- saltwater conducts electricity very well and can quickly eat the brakes....
Depending how long you are planning to be there, sometimes rentals are a good deal.
12-23-2006, 08:21 PM
#19
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Hey,
I was reading through all the replies on this again. Thanks for all the advice.
Wow, I was thinking of towing my 4000 lb boat on my tandem trailer that has surge brakes from Atlanta to Panama City Beach, Florida. It is a 7 hour drive without a trailer.
Now I'm thinking I ought to just rent a boat in Panama City Beach because of the risks and pain in the Axx factor of hauling the boat that distance with all the jerking.
How much would it cost to upgrade to an Electronic brake controller and then pay someone to upgrade my surge brakes to Electric brakes on my current trailer?
What else would I need?
I was reading through all the replies on this again. Thanks for all the advice.
Wow, I was thinking of towing my 4000 lb boat on my tandem trailer that has surge brakes from Atlanta to Panama City Beach, Florida. It is a 7 hour drive without a trailer.
Now I'm thinking I ought to just rent a boat in Panama City Beach because of the risks and pain in the Axx factor of hauling the boat that distance with all the jerking.
How much would it cost to upgrade to an Electronic brake controller and then pay someone to upgrade my surge brakes to Electric brakes on my current trailer?
What else would I need?
Also, if you are going to put the boat into saltwater, you don't want electric- saltwater conducts electricity very well and can quickly eat the brakes....
Depending how long you are planning to be there, sometimes rentals are a good deal.
As far as hauling 4000lbs for 7 hrs with the V8 4runner, no problem with the right trailer and controller. Without, I wouldn't.
I think I listed that I replaced each hub on my trailer (2 axles x 2 hubs, they come in pairs), plus some wire, some time, then put 7 pin connector on cable harness and used with my Prodigy controller. Get the adapter cable, two screws and plug it in, no problem.
The good part is that the hubs come with new bearings, probably the biggest failure that results in roadside breakdowns (been there, done that!). I also bought new "bearing buddies" for the end of each axle.
These keep water out of the bearings by keeping grease pressure against the outside of the axle.
The breakaway kit is < $50 and pretty straightforward.
If you have basic wiring knowledge, some tools (need good drill bit to dril into trailer frame), and a little time, you can save some $$. You should know how to pull and replace wheel hubs, and run wiring, preferrably inside the trailer frame (my boat trailer is square tubing).
You'll probably only have to add brake wiring, plus a ground as far as wiring. Should be able to reuse wiring for lights.
Lots of info, does this help?
-DiskDoctr
12-29-2006, 08:01 AM
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DiskDoctr, all it the info helps a lot. I only plan to use the boat in salt water for a week. It pulls water from the gulf/ocean/lake for cooling. I will flush it after the week.
My main concern is to pull it safely to and from which is ~600 miles round trip with a lot of stoplights and jerking.
I have a tandem trailer with surge brakes which I just had serviced to put on new pads, lube, etc... It has the four wires. The surge brakes help a little I guess.
It looks my options are to tow as it is. How bad would that be?
or upgrade the trailer to electric brakes with a controller.
If I hire someone to upgrade my trailer, about how much would that be?
My main concern is to pull it safely to and from which is ~600 miles round trip with a lot of stoplights and jerking.
I have a tandem trailer with surge brakes which I just had serviced to put on new pads, lube, etc... It has the four wires. The surge brakes help a little I guess.
It looks my options are to tow as it is. How bad would that be?
or upgrade the trailer to electric brakes with a controller.
If I hire someone to upgrade my trailer, about how much would that be?
