05+ Taco locker mod!!!

crawler#976 · 03-17-2006, 06:59 AM

yeah buddy!

27 Mar 06 - updated info from ComAttack:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...&postcount=102

complete PDF file located @ http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...f?d=1142535319

partial excerpt, no pictures:

Quote:

2005+ Tacoma Locker Mod

By Kevin Knight (ComAttack)

This Mod will allow you to activate the Rear Differential Lock on TRD Off-Road Tacomas (2005+) in 2HI & 4HI in addition to 4LO. (Similar to the 2004 “Grey Wire Mod”) It also utilizes the ECU to disable ABS & VSC with the locker engaged (standard feature), just as it normally would. This is a pretty straightforward modification that requires no special skills except a minimal understanding of electrical circuits and wiring schematics. You can perform this mod simply be identifying the correct wires and wiring them as instructed. Your typical “DIYer” should be able to handle this without a problem. Some write-ups show you how to use a second switch. This one will show you how to wire up your OEM Locker switch to keep things factory looking…

*DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibly for any damage, malfunction, or misfortune that occurs as a result of this modification. These instructions are provided simply as a GUIDE to assist you. You assume all responsibility and risk to yourself and your vehicle in performing this mod. If you are not qualified to work on your vehicle, please have it done by a professional.*

Ok, now that that’s out of the way. Let’s get started…

Here is what you will need:

(1) 10A DPDT Relay (double pole, double throw) (20A would be better, but 10A will probably work fine)
emale Spade Crimp connectors (a dozen will be plenty, and leaves room for some error)
(2) Wire Tap connectors, typical hand tools (wire cutters, crimper, screwdriver, etc) Optional supplies, Depending on where/how you want to install the relay:
Extra wire Heat shrink, solder, Electrical tape

First, an Explanation about the DPDT Relay.

A DPDT relay is a switch that has two inputs (poles) and two outputs (throw) for each input. Basically 2 in & 4 out (or 4 in & 2 out, depending on how you look at it). A relay requires electrical current to pass through a magnetic coil to flip the switch. The type of relay we need will have an “off” position when no current is applied and an “on” position when current is applied. DO NOT get a “Latching” DPDT relay. A latching relay is one that requires current to flip the switch, and then requires the current to be REVERSED to switch it back. This type will not work with the OEM Tacoma switch. There are also many types of
configurations for the same type of switch. This simply means that the contacts may be in a different position than the diagrams used here. You can figure out what each contact is by looking at the diagram on the switch or an illustration that came with it.

Here is a sample of some different configurations:

If you choose a switch with a slightly different configuration, for sake of illustration, I’ve labeled the Relay contacts in the diagram above. The “poles” are A & B. The “throws” are A1, A2, B1, & B2 and correspond to the accompanying pole. For reference, in the default “off” position, A & A1 have continuity, and B & B1 have continuity (A2 & B2 have none). The coil contacts are generally turned a different direction for ease of identification. If you check the
resistance with an Ohm meter, it should read a couple hundred ohms. The other contacts will have very little if any resistance.

How you mount the relay is up to you. You can let it hang (not recommended...wires may come loose). Or you can just tape it to the ECU or wiring harness. Whatever works.

Now get out the tools and let’s get started!!!

You will find the 4WD ECU on the passenger side behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and 10mm bolt on the latch. Then remove the black plastic cover held in by latch bolt. Once you have access to it, identify the connections you will modify in the picture below. You will need to cut 5 wires from the harness. One you will leave intact, but you need to tap it for power. I have labeled each of them in the picture for easy recognition. Make sure the ignition is in the OFF position and the locker is DISENGAGED before starting.

• Begin by carefully cutting back (or unwrapping) the electrical tape around the wire. You will need to give yourself several inches to make the work easier. The more the better. You can always re-tape the wires if needed. (Removing the ECU is optional).

• CUT the ‘Lt. Blue’ & ‘Lt Green’ wires and put a spade connector on the ends. These are the leads to the actuator motor. ‘Lt. Blue’ goes to “Pole A” and ‘Lt Green’ goes to “Pole B.”

• CUT the ‘Pink’ & ‘Lt GN/Black’ wires. These go to the limit switch, and will activate/deactivate the motor to engage or disengage the locker. Attach spade connectors. ‘Pink’ goes to A2 & ‘Lt GN/Black’ goes to B1.

• TAP the ‘Violet’ wire. DO NOT CUT IT!! This supplies power to the ECU and also the actuator motor. It is adequately fused, so we will continue to use it for our new circuit. You will need to attach TWO wires to this power lead. I suggest making/soldering a small Y-cable. Insulate it with heat shrink tubing. Using the tap connector, tap the ‘Violet’ wire with one lead from your Y-cable. Or you can use 2 wire taps and tap the ‘Violet’ wire twice. Attach a spade connector to the other two ends and connect them to A1 & B2.

• Cut the ‘Red/Black’ wire. This is for your OEM switch. (The wire is hidden behind the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire in the picture.) Attach a spade connector, and connect it to one end of the coil contacts. It doesn’t matter which.

• To the other coil contact, attach a wire with a spade connector and run the wire to any ground point. You can simply tap into the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire on the ECU if you like.

• Verify ALL connections are in the proper location. Double check everything! Tape the relay to the ECU or wire harness to make sure it won’t bounce around. If you want to relocate the relay somewhere else, you can lengthen each wire you cut by splicing in another wire to each, and mount it elsewhere.

YOUR DONE!!

Put everything back together. Lock up that differential and go have some fun!

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Good Times · 03-17-2006, 07:53 AM

sweet deal!!! this thread will be a sticky for sure

Mikeperlof · 03-24-2006, 10:35 AM

Brilliant.

crawler#976 · 03-27-2006, 11:39 AM

see first post - updated link an info today on TTORA from ComAttack....

***Corey*** · 03-27-2006, 11:50 AM

Cool, that is the same info WATRD found for me last week.

I posted that info over on ih8mud's new FJ Cruiser forum.

Mikeperlof · 03-27-2006, 03:56 PM

Anyone done it yet????

Cruzn2wd · 09-25-2006, 07:56 PM

I just did it tonight on '06 Taco 4wd TRD. It took about 2 hours counting the time it took to go down to Radio Shack and get the parts. Super easy. Directions were on the money. Works Killer. Nothing like spinning donuts in 2wd with both wheels spinning. Thanks to all those who put in all the effort so the rest of us can reep the rewards.

William · 07-01-2007, 01:38 PM

I did it, works great.

There are a 3 things that you need to be sure of when you do this.

First, there's 2 connectors going to the 4WD ECM. Make sure you tap into the wires going to the correct connector. There is a drawing in one of the links above showing the pin side of the connector, which also shows the shape of the connector. The other connector is shaped different, so it shouldn't be hard to tell.

Both connectors have some wires that are colored the same, so this could lead to a mistake. Make sure you have the right connector.

Second, in the wiring diagram supplied in one of the links above, most of the wires you need to look for are numbered. The drawing of the connector has all of the pins numbered, so if there is any question about what color the wires are (light blue looked like medium blue to me, pink and red looked similer), you can refer to the pin numbers to find the associated wire.

Third, there are wires that you have to cut. You will splice into the wire on the harness side, and will need to insulate the wire on the connector side with tape or heat shrink so that it doesn't short out against anything.

ohioyotaguy · 12-13-2008, 08:39 AM

I just finished the locker mod and my diff is locked full time and won't unlock and all my 4wd lights are on. WTF?! Did I hook a wire up wrong? It's definitely locked but won't unlock. Also, ABS lights are on too! Please help ASAP!!!! I cut the little blue wire first, which was the wrong one, but I hooked it back up. Do I need to unhook my battery and let my computer reset? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

AppleJack · 12-13-2008, 10:19 AM

Can't hurt to reset the computer, try that and see what happens. I'm just guessing but, you probably need to look at the schematic again, you probably have a wire hooked up incorrectly. It looks kind of confusing to me, which is why I haven't gotten the nerve to do it yet. Too bad it's not as easy as the gray wire mod.

ohioyotaguy · 12-13-2008, 11:05 AM

from what I can tell, everything is hooked up right. Although it appears there are 2 pink wires, unless one is red, but they look the exact same color. Maybe I've got the wrong one. I'm afraid to start switching wires in fear of doing damage, if I haven't already. I'm blowing the 4wd fuse in the dash and the 10A IGN fuse everytime I try to engage the locker. So now my windows won't roll down and my heater fan doesn't work. Is there a better schematic anywhere that shows the wires a little better?

ohioyotaguy · 12-13-2008, 11:30 AM

ok, I triple checked all my hook-ups. 100% right. Is it possible that my relay is bad?? I bought the double pole, double throw 10A relay. Do I need to step up to a 20A? I'm baffled. Everytime I try to engage the locker I blow fuses. I've got wires 1, 2, 13, 16, and 21 hooked up to the proper poles, throws, and coil contacts. I tapped the white/black wire for my ground like it said I could. I don't know what else to do. Anyone who has done this mod, please let me know if you had any issues. You can PM me if you like. Thanks.

William · 12-13-2008, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohioyotaguy

ok, I triple checked all my hook-ups. 100% right. Is it possible that my relay is bad?? I bought the double pole, double throw 10A relay. Do I need to step up to a 20A?

A 20 amp relay will do the same thing as a 10 amp relay. The amp rating has to do with how much current the relay contacts can withstand, and won't help the locker work any different.

You might can swap the relay with another one to see if the relay is bad. I bought an extra one when I did mine, just in case mine goes bad. However, both the fact that it is a new relay, and my experience as a industrial electrician tell me that a relay isn't likely to be bad in a way that would cause fuses to blow (assuming it IS the right relay for the job).

However, you should check that the relay coil is rated for 12 VDC (volts direct current). If the coil is rated otherwise, it could cause a fuse or fuses in the power circuit that feeds power to the relay coil to blow when the coil is energized. Using a relay with the wrong voltage rating could also possibly cause the coil to go bad when energized, which could also blow the fuse.

Let us know what you find.

ohioyotaguy · 12-14-2008, 05:54 AM

found the problem. my computer wouldn't bring up the file for the locker mod the other day so I had my buddy look it up and he "said" he wrote it down word for word. I hooked it up the way he had it wrote down... he didn't write down to hook the wires on the harness side, he told me it said to hook up the connector side. So what could have possibly been damaged?? Also, the relay I have is rated for 110V AC or 24V DC. Does this mean that I need 24 v dc to run it or that its rated for UPTO 24v?

William · 12-14-2008, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohioyotaguy

Also, the relay I have is rated for 110V AC or 24V DC. Does this mean that I need 24 v dc to run it or that its rated for UPTO 24v?

You need a relay where the COIL is rated for 12 VDC. It sounds like the ratings you listed above are the voltage limits for the CONTACTS.

The contact voltage limits you listed are fine for a 12 VDC application, because the voltage used is less than the 24 VDC maximum.

But the COIL has to be rated for the voltage (12 volts) and type of current used (direct current, or DC). The coil voltage rating will usually be only one voltage, not a range of voltages or dual voltages and types like the contacts usually are.

You should buy the proper relay and wire it up properly, and properly re-splice any wires that were mistakenly cut. Only after you have wired up everything correctly and installed the proper relay, then you can figure out if there is any damage.

Hopefully, the fuses protected any other components from damage.

ohioyotaguy · 12-15-2008, 04:42 AM

Ok, I got the right relay. Hooked it up and replaced the two fuses that I knew were blown... all the lights are off and my 4wd works again. I think I still have a fuse blown because my locker won't engage. I need to investigate and hopefully I didn't fry my locker motor. Thanks for all the help.

William · 12-15-2008, 08:41 AM

No problem. Glad I could help.

If I understand correctly, the locker motor energizes only long enough to change state, which means it is only energized during the time it takes to lock or unlock the locker. Once locked or unlocked, the motor stays de-energized until given the command to change state again.

Unless it somehow was wired to stay energized constantly and was sitting there locked or unlocked (overheating while trying to turn and couldn't), the motor should be fine. Otherwise, there is no way that I can picture it going bad.

So yea, another fuse could very well be blown, or maybe a wire that you had previously had cut wasn't properly spliced back together. Whatever the case, my experience has shown that if another fuse isn't blown, the problem is most likely something you worked on, and the problem would be found where you were working at.

Just consider this a learning experience. If you never dive in and try to get the job done yourself, you won't make mistakes and learn from them. Now you know more than some people do about automotive electrical systems, and the next time you work on something it will be easier. Just don't let this intimidate you.

Oh yea, one more thing: You may need to drive down a road (preferably dirt) and try locking the locker. If the locking mechanism isn't lined up inside the differential, it won't lock or indicate locked until it is. So you may just need to drive and make a turn in one direction or the other until the locking mechanism engages. Likewise, the mechanism may not disengage until you drive a little bit because it may be bound up. Making a turn in one direction or the other will relieve the binding long enough to allow it to disengage.

ohioyotaguy · 12-15-2008, 12:52 PM

I can't find any blown fuses and my locker still won't lock or even show that's it's locked. Any ideas what I may have done? Everything with my 4wd works great but not my locker. Thanks. Could I have burnt up the motor?? If so, how much is a new one?

William · 12-16-2008, 09:42 AM

What you will have to do is get a multimeter (measures volts/ohms/amps), and a wiring diagram for the locker motor itself.

Find out which wires energize the motor itself. Find the harness connector closest to the motor. You may have to leave the connector connected in order to make a voltage check on the wires going to the motor, so that it will at least attempt to engage when the button is pushed, because there are probably switches in the locker mechanism that tell the computer that it's okay to energize the motor. If so, take a knife and CAREFULLY skim back the insulation on the wires and measure the voltage while someone pushes the button.

Assuming you are on the right wires, if there is about 12.5-13.0 +/- volts there when the button is pushed and the motor isn't trying to engage, the motor is bad. If there is no voltage, the problem is elsewhere.

Once it's checked, carefully tape the wires up, making sure they are well insulated.

Like I said, unless the motor was energized when it wasn't supposed to be, which would cause it to keep trying to lock when it is already locked or keep trying to unlock when it was already unlocked, the motor isn't likely to be bad.

I have no idea how much a motor costs. I don't think they go bad often, so it may be hard to find someone on here that has had to replace it. I would call a Toyota dealer. Some auto parts places may carry remanufactured units, so price them too. Sometimes NAPA carries things like this that other places don't carry, things that typically are dealer only items.

But make sure the motor is actually bad before you replace it. The ECU may have gone bad.

EDIT: Page 3 of the first link shown above has a good diagram. It looks like the factory diagram, but it does show which wires go to the motor itself (LT Blue and LT Green from the switch, LT Green/red and LT Green at the motor). You can also check for voltage leaving the relay on the wires going to the motor.

ohioyotaguy · 01-08-2009, 08:57 AM

ok, found the problem. I somehow burnt something out in my locker switch. My locker DOES engage and disengage and is working fine, but the light in the dash isn't coming on. I don't know what's causing this, and I'm not really concerned as long as my locker keeps working fine. Eventually I'll buy a new switch, but I'm content for the time being. My locker light DOES come on at start up but never again after that. I don't know if there's a sensor in the switch that tells you your locker is locked and that's what I fried, I'm just not sure. Next I'm tackling the foglight mod. HAHA. I'll be sure to read the directions 3 times before I do that though. Thanks for all your help William, I owe you greatly. Also, thanks everyone else. I can stop having a panic attack about my locker motor now. Until next time.....

William · 01-08-2009, 06:45 PM

No problem at all. I'm glad to have been able to help.

I once had a guy here that basically told me that anything I had to say was of no use and that I had no mechanical ability whatsoever (I think his name was merace19). I'm glad that, not only was I able to help you, but that I could also prove him wrong.

03-17-2006, 07:53 AM	#2 (permalink)
Good Times Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 4,693	sweet deal!!! this thread will be a sticky for sure __________________ 2003 4runner SR5 4x4 Chaos Edition Chaos Edition! Operation Rebuild Chaos Edition Need to reach me or ask questions? You can find me here!

03-24-2006, 10:35 AM	#3 (permalink)
Mikeperlof Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 3	Brilliant. Last edited by Mikeperlof; 03-24-2006 at 10:40 AM.

03-27-2006, 11:39 AM	#4 (permalink)
crawler#976 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Chino Valley, Az. Posts: 938	see first post - updated link an info today on TTORA from ComAttack.... __________________ ...down to the two Taco's, no more SloYota!

03-27-2006, 11:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
*Corey* Co-Founder/Administrator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: Auburn, Washington Posts: 26,074	Cool, that is the same info WATRD found for me last week. I posted that info over on ih8mud's new FJ Cruiser forum. __________________ Corey 2007 FJ Cruiser Built for 4wheelin', expedition, camping, and overlanding use PNW FJ Cruisers ☺ Detailing 101 ☺ Join Topsites ☺ Muffler Comparisons ☺ Maggiolinas In The Wild FJ Cruiser Buildup ☺ New Roof Top Tent ☺ Video Of My Penthouse Part II ☺ Rehinge Your ARB/Engel Fridge Blog About Roof Top Tents ☺ FJC Magazines Online Review Of My Tent ☺ 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Pro

07-01-2007, 01:38 PM	#8 (permalink)
William Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bradley Junction, Florida Posts: 276	I did it, works great. There are a 3 things that you need to be sure of when you do this. First, there's 2 connectors going to the 4WD ECM. Make sure you tap into the wires going to the correct connector. There is a drawing in one of the links above showing the pin side of the connector, which also shows the shape of the connector. The other connector is shaped different, so it shouldn't be hard to tell. Both connectors have some wires that are colored the same, so this could lead to a mistake. Make sure you have the right connector. Second, in the wiring diagram supplied in one of the links above, most of the wires you need to look for are numbered. The drawing of the connector has all of the pins numbered, so if there is any question about what color the wires are (light blue looked like medium blue to me, pink and red looked similer), you can refer to the pin numbers to find the associated wire. Third, there are wires that you have to cut. You will splice into the wire on the harness side, and will need to insulate the wire on the connector side with tape or heat shrink so that it doesn't short out against anything. __________________ '06 Tacoma TRD 4wd 4 door short bed. Rear locker mod (can use in high range and 2wd now). Skyjacker 3" lift struts with new rear springs and shocks. Home made spacers in front for another 3/4" lift. Roadmaster overload springs in the rear for another 7/8" lift, and better carrying/towing ability. 285/75-16 BFG All Terrains. More to come. '08 Yamaha FJR1300 with ABS and power adjustable windshield. '06 Yamaha Wolverine 450 sport/4wd ATV Last edited by William; 07-03-2007 at 02:31 PM.

03-27-2006, 03:56 PM	#6 (permalink)
Mikeperlof Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 3	Anyone done it yet????

09-25-2006, 07:56 PM	#7 (permalink)
Cruzn2wd Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Lake Elsinore, Ca Posts: 3	I just did it tonight on '06 Taco 4wd TRD. It took about 2 hours counting the time it took to go down to Radio Shack and get the parts. Super easy. Directions were on the money. Works Killer. Nothing like spinning donuts in 2wd with both wheels spinning. Thanks to all those who put in all the effort so the rest of us can reep the rewards.

12-13-2008, 08:39 AM	#9 (permalink)
ohioyotaguy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ashland, Ohio Posts: 144	Locker Mod Heeeeeelp!! I just finished the locker mod and my diff is locked full time and won't unlock and all my 4wd lights are on. WTF?! Did I hook a wire up wrong? It's definitely locked but won't unlock. Also, ABS lights are on too! Please help ASAP!!!! I cut the little blue wire first, which was the wrong one, but I hooked it back up. Do I need to unhook my battery and let my computer reset? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks. __________________ Black 2006 Tacoma double cab short bed TRD 4x4 4.0L 6 speed 3" tuff country lift and 265/75 maxxis mudders for now

12-13-2008, 10:19 AM	#10 (permalink)
AppleJack Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Medford, Oregon Posts: 556	Can't hurt to reset the computer, try that and see what happens. I'm just guessing but, you probably need to look at the schematic again, you probably have a wire hooked up incorrectly. It looks kind of confusing to me, which is why I haven't gotten the nerve to do it yet. Too bad it's not as easy as the gray wire mod. __________________ Fires, Friends, and Books Decree Wisdom, Strength, and Controversy. To believe with certainty, one must begin doubting.

12-13-2008, 11:05 AM	#11 (permalink)
ohioyotaguy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ashland, Ohio Posts: 144	from what I can tell, everything is hooked up right. Although it appears there are 2 pink wires, unless one is red, but they look the exact same color. Maybe I've got the wrong one. I'm afraid to start switching wires in fear of doing damage, if I haven't already. I'm blowing the 4wd fuse in the dash and the 10A IGN fuse everytime I try to engage the locker. So now my windows won't roll down and my heater fan doesn't work. Is there a better schematic anywhere that shows the wires a little better? __________________ Black 2006 Tacoma double cab short bed TRD 4x4 4.0L 6 speed 3" tuff country lift and 265/75 maxxis mudders for now

12-13-2008, 11:30 AM	#12 (permalink)
ohioyotaguy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ashland, Ohio Posts: 144	ok, I triple checked all my hook-ups. 100% right. Is it possible that my relay is bad?? I bought the double pole, double throw 10A relay. Do I need to step up to a 20A? I'm baffled. Everytime I try to engage the locker I blow fuses. I've got wires 1, 2, 13, 16, and 21 hooked up to the proper poles, throws, and coil contacts. I tapped the white/black wire for my ground like it said I could. I don't know what else to do. Anyone who has done this mod, please let me know if you had any issues. You can PM me if you like. Thanks. __________________ Black 2006 Tacoma double cab short bed TRD 4x4 4.0L 6 speed 3" tuff country lift and 265/75 maxxis mudders for now

12-14-2008, 05:54 AM	#14 (permalink)
ohioyotaguy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ashland, Ohio Posts: 144	found the problem. my computer wouldn't bring up the file for the locker mod the other day so I had my buddy look it up and he "said" he wrote it down word for word. I hooked it up the way he had it wrote down... he didn't write down to hook the wires on the harness side, he told me it said to hook up the connector side. So what could have possibly been damaged?? Also, the relay I have is rated for 110V AC or 24V DC. Does this mean that I need 24 v dc to run it or that its rated for UPTO 24v? __________________ Black 2006 Tacoma double cab short bed TRD 4x4 4.0L 6 speed 3" tuff country lift and 265/75 maxxis mudders for now Last edited by ohioyotaguy; 12-14-2008 at 09:48 AM.

12-15-2008, 04:42 AM	#16 (permalink)
ohioyotaguy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ashland, Ohio Posts: 144	Ok, I got the right relay. Hooked it up and replaced the two fuses that I knew were blown... all the lights are off and my 4wd works again. I think I still have a fuse blown because my locker won't engage. I need to investigate and hopefully I didn't fry my locker motor. Thanks for all the help. __________________ Black 2006 Tacoma double cab short bed TRD 4x4 4.0L 6 speed 3" tuff country lift and 265/75 maxxis mudders for now

12-15-2008, 08:41 AM	#17 (permalink)
William Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bradley Junction, Florida Posts: 276	No problem. Glad I could help. If I understand correctly, the locker motor energizes only long enough to change state, which means it is only energized during the time it takes to lock or unlock the locker. Once locked or unlocked, the motor stays de-energized until given the command to change state again. Unless it somehow was wired to stay energized constantly and was sitting there locked or unlocked (overheating while trying to turn and couldn't), the motor should be fine. Otherwise, there is no way that I can picture it going bad. So yea, another fuse could very well be blown, or maybe a wire that you had previously had cut wasn't properly spliced back together. Whatever the case, my experience has shown that if another fuse isn't blown, the problem is most likely something you worked on, and the problem would be found where you were working at. Just consider this a learning experience. If you never dive in and try to get the job done yourself, you won't make mistakes and learn from them. Now you know more than some people do about automotive electrical systems, and the next time you work on something it will be easier. Just don't let this intimidate you. Oh yea, one more thing: You may need to drive down a road (preferably dirt) and try locking the locker. If the locking mechanism isn't lined up inside the differential, it won't lock or indicate locked until it is. So you may just need to drive and make a turn in one direction or the other until the locking mechanism engages. Likewise, the mechanism may not disengage until you drive a little bit because it may be bound up. Making a turn in one direction or the other will relieve the binding long enough to allow it to disengage. __________________ '06 Tacoma TRD 4wd 4 door short bed. Rear locker mod (can use in high range and 2wd now). Skyjacker 3" lift struts with new rear springs and shocks. Home made spacers in front for another 3/4" lift. Roadmaster overload springs in the rear for another 7/8" lift, and better carrying/towing ability. 285/75-16 BFG All Terrains. More to come. '08 Yamaha FJR1300 with ABS and power adjustable windshield. '06 Yamaha Wolverine 450 sport/4wd ATV Last edited by William; 12-15-2008 at 08:45 AM.

12-15-2008, 12:52 PM	#18 (permalink)
ohioyotaguy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ashland, Ohio Posts: 144	I can't find any blown fuses and my locker still won't lock or even show that's it's locked. Any ideas what I may have done? Everything with my 4wd works great but not my locker. Thanks. Could I have burnt up the motor?? If so, how much is a new one? __________________ Black 2006 Tacoma double cab short bed TRD 4x4 4.0L 6 speed 3" tuff country lift and 265/75 maxxis mudders for now

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12-16-2008, 09:42 AM	#19 (permalink)
William Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bradley Junction, Florida Posts: 276	What you will have to do is get a multimeter (measures volts/ohms/amps), and a wiring diagram for the locker motor itself. Find out which wires energize the motor itself. Find the harness connector closest to the motor. You may have to leave the connector connected in order to make a voltage check on the wires going to the motor, so that it will at least attempt to engage when the button is pushed, because there are probably switches in the locker mechanism that tell the computer that it's okay to energize the motor. If so, take a knife and CAREFULLY skim back the insulation on the wires and measure the voltage while someone pushes the button. Assuming you are on the right wires, if there is about 12.5-13.0 +/- volts there when the button is pushed and the motor isn't trying to engage, the motor is bad. If there is no voltage, the problem is elsewhere. Once it's checked, carefully tape the wires up, making sure they are well insulated. Like I said, unless the motor was energized when it wasn't supposed to be, which would cause it to keep trying to lock when it is already locked or keep trying to unlock when it was already unlocked, the motor isn't likely to be bad. I have no idea how much a motor costs. I don't think they go bad often, so it may be hard to find someone on here that has had to replace it. I would call a Toyota dealer. Some auto parts places may carry remanufactured units, so price them too. Sometimes NAPA carries things like this that other places don't carry, things that typically are dealer only items. But make sure the motor is actually bad before you replace it. The ECU may have gone bad. EDIT: Page 3 of the first link shown above has a good diagram. It looks like the factory diagram, but it does show which wires go to the motor itself (LT Blue and LT Green from the switch, LT Green/red and LT Green at the motor). You can also check for voltage leaving the relay on the wires going to the motor. __________________ '06 Tacoma TRD 4wd 4 door short bed. Rear locker mod (can use in high range and 2wd now). Skyjacker 3" lift struts with new rear springs and shocks. Home made spacers in front for another 3/4" lift. Roadmaster overload springs in the rear for another 7/8" lift, and better carrying/towing ability. 285/75-16 BFG All Terrains. More to come. '08 Yamaha FJR1300 with ABS and power adjustable windshield. '06 Yamaha Wolverine 450 sport/4wd ATV Last edited by William; 12-16-2008 at 09:54 AM.

01-08-2009, 08:57 AM	#20 (permalink)
ohioyotaguy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ashland, Ohio Posts: 144	ok, found the problem. I somehow burnt something out in my locker switch. My locker DOES engage and disengage and is working fine, but the light in the dash isn't coming on. I don't know what's causing this, and I'm not really concerned as long as my locker keeps working fine. Eventually I'll buy a new switch, but I'm content for the time being. My locker light DOES come on at start up but never again after that. I don't know if there's a sensor in the switch that tells you your locker is locked and that's what I fried, I'm just not sure. Next I'm tackling the foglight mod. HAHA. I'll be sure to read the directions 3 times before I do that though. Thanks for all your help William, I owe you greatly. Also, thanks everyone else. I can stop having a panic attack about my locker motor now. Until next time..... __________________ Black 2006 Tacoma double cab short bed TRD 4x4 4.0L 6 speed 3" tuff country lift and 265/75 maxxis mudders for now

01-08-2009, 06:45 PM	#21 (permalink)
William Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bradley Junction, Florida Posts: 276	No problem at all. I'm glad to have been able to help. I once had a guy here that basically told me that anything I had to say was of no use and that I had no mechanical ability whatsoever (I think his name was merace19). I'm glad that, not only was I able to help you, but that I could also prove him wrong. __________________ '06 Tacoma TRD 4wd 4 door short bed. Rear locker mod (can use in high range and 2wd now). Skyjacker 3" lift struts with new rear springs and shocks. Home made spacers in front for another 3/4" lift. Roadmaster overload springs in the rear for another 7/8" lift, and better carrying/towing ability. 285/75-16 BFG All Terrains. More to come. '08 Yamaha FJR1300 with ABS and power adjustable windshield. '06 Yamaha Wolverine 450 sport/4wd ATV Last edited by William; 01-09-2009 at 12:51 AM.

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