writeup: '89-'94 heater core replacement

shaeff · 09-07-2007, 08:40 PM

i don't know how much demand there is for this, but i decided to do it anyway. i took some pics along the way when i replaced my heater core. maybe they'll help some people. i had done the heater core on my supra, so this was actually easier.

keep in mind that my truck has no A/C.

click the pics for larger versions:

the full dash before i started. (a bit dirty, heh)

full dash view from passenger's side:

pull the glove box out:

pull out the small piece under the stereo:

pull out the section under the steering column. detach the hood popping cable, and pull out the vent that goes to the upper left vent.

pull the surround for the stereo/climate control. remember to pull the knobs off the climate control, otherwise when you pull it off, they'll fly everywhere!

pull out the stereo:

pull out the instrument cluster:

pull the four (14mm?) bolts holding the steering column up to the main dash support. (the huge metal bar) let the steering wheel drop down onto the driver's seat.

pop the dash out. (make sure you drop the steering column first!)

here's what the steering column looks like dropped out:

remove the bolts/nuts for the two supports for the stereo area, then remove the two fasteners from the passenger's side of the large support bar, and the two bolts/two nuts, and pull it out through the passenger side door.

another of the bar removed:

duct between the blower motor and heater core removed:

i didn't get pictures of having the actual core out, as my hands were quite greasy from helping my friend put rotors, calipers and pads on his '91. so here's the new core installed with new weather stripping from the local hardware store. i also got a new gasket for the extension pipe for the core, and a new clip just for good measure.

and here's the finished product, with everything back in and functioning properly.

install is the reverse of removal.

hope that helps someone!

-shaeff

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KevinInSac · 09-07-2007, 09:35 PM

That's looks pretty damn involved. I hate diving into the dash. I was going to buy another heater core and drill/tap for a sender for an afermarket temp gauge.

How long did it take you?

shaeff · 09-07-2007, 09:41 PM

it took me pretty much all day, but i was doing several other projects at the same time. if i were only doing this, it would only have taken about 3 hours or so, tops.

i had a coffee break in the morning, lunch break shortly after (i was up early that day), helped my friend with his brakes, rotors, calipers, helped another friend work on his jeep figuring out electrical gremlins, etc...

but it's really pretty straight forward. just take your time, and feel for each screw you have to remove.

-shaeff

KevinInSac · 09-07-2007, 10:12 PM

Yeah. I gotta dig into the dash to hook up some CB stuff anyway...

shaeff · 09-07-2007, 10:36 PM

you shouldn't have to go as deep as the heater core for CB stuff!

-shaeff

KevinInSac · 09-08-2007, 05:34 PM

heh yeah, but I'm already half way there... I like to do everything at once.

shaeff · 09-09-2007, 08:31 AM

true, better to pull it and get it over with than to do it half way, twice!

-shaeff

propheadj · 01-04-2008, 07:06 PM

Thanks that post really helped me out today. The Haynes manual is worthless sometimes.

91toybeater · 02-21-2008, 08:13 PM

I inherited this beast and somebody put a new heater core in it. I think they may have crossed a couple of cables. When I move the lever from cold to hot, the water valve opens alright but the recirculation door also opens . Hard to get any real hot air moving when cold air is coming in all the time when in heat mode. I would hope that the recirculation lever would do that but I've not been able to find a diagram of the cables in the fsm or clymers manual. could you verify which lever moves which door or valve.
thanks
paul

jason191918 · 02-21-2008, 08:18 PM

Nice writeup. Just thought that I would mention that if you tilt the wheel all the way down, it is possible to pop the dash w/o removing the column.

Matt16 · 02-21-2008, 08:54 PM

Why don't you put this in the tech writeup section. Its much appreciated when people take a couple pics of their repairs and write a little bit.

I think it would take a little liquid courage for me to rip apart the dash like that. I have something in my dash that blows around (pine needles?) while driving. Its obnoxious and its not in in the area below the slats in front of the windshield.

ozziesironmanoffroad · 02-21-2008, 08:58 PM

sounds like its in the heater core alright, matt16.

hgkittyhawk · 11-14-2009, 08:49 AM

i got it i had remove the white thing with the lever on it then it came out

shaeff · 11-14-2009, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jason191918

Nice writeup. Just thought that I would mention that if you tilt the wheel all the way down, it is possible to pop the dash w/o removing the column.

While this may be true, the steel support behind the dash needs to out anyway, so you might as well just do as I posted.

kittyhawk- you're welcome.

peckinpah · 11-14-2009, 10:27 AM

Dashboards! Schmashboards! Who needs 'em? I think I'd prefer to just drive around like this all the time and dispense with the stupid dashboard.

iamsuperbleeder · 11-14-2009, 04:02 PM

wow I'm glad this got revived, lol, I have to do mine soon; I have the new heater core and new hoses and everything already, just need the time to do it

props on the great write-up!

hgkittyhawk · 11-15-2009, 09:08 AM

Give your self plenty of time and be patients.It goes back together easy.If you air you have to discharge it first. Then its a bunch of screws and 10 millimeters bolts and four 12 millimeters bolts.

iamsuperbleeder · 11-15-2009, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hgkittyhawk

Give your self plenty of time and be patients.It goes back together easy.If you air you have to discharge it first. Then its a bunch of screws and 10 millimeters bolts and four 12 millimeters bolts.

what? why would you have to release the pressure from the AC system?

rangerruck · 11-15-2009, 10:30 AM

I'm new at all things auto/mechanical so I have a question; in the 2nd to the last pic, you show two devices, with the duct removed from between the two. Am I right in assuming the heater core is inside the left device, and not the right? the one on the right looks like a motor, with a filter of some type in front of it...

874runnersr5 · 11-15-2009, 10:44 AM

i do not look forward to replacing my heater core soon.

hgkittyhawk · 11-15-2009, 10:52 AM

the motor is to the right.The air is in the middle.the heater box is behind the radio.the heater box comes out where the glove box would be.

great1 · 11-15-2009, 02:58 PM

I just replaced the heater core on my 92 4Runner using shaeff's post. As I went along I took many pictures to help me put it back together. I have them uploaded to my Facebook page if you want to take a look or to use so you do not have to take pictures as you go along to remember where and how everything goes together. I took about 60 plus pictures, but it does not cover everything. The one piece of advice I have after the whole experience is to leave the 4 controls cables attached to the a/c control console (They control the temperature of the air, the ducts the air goes through, the fan speed, and the air intake.) I found out the best way to get this obstacle out of the way is to detach the cables at the end where it is attached to each device the control operates. The end to remove has a eye. I broke 2 of the ends attached to the console and it cost me an extra $30 to fix. Luckily I actually found the 2 parts pulled from a guy in Addison, instead of having to go to a junk yard.

see pictures here:
http://s978.photobucket.com/albums/a...Heater%20Core/

shaeff · 11-16-2009, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder

wow I'm glad this got revived, lol, I have to do mine soon; I have the new heater core and new hoses and everything already, just need the time to do it

props on the great write-up!

Thanks dude!

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder

what? why would you have to release the pressure from the AC system?

I don't have A/C, but you shouldn't have to. The HVAC system in the Pickup is similarly set up to that of my MKIII Supra which has A/C, and there's no need to have the system discharged. It just makes it a bit more challenging, but is easily done with patience.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rangerruck

I'm new at all things auto/mechanical so I have a question; in the 2nd to the last pic, you show two devices, with the duct removed from between the two. Am I right in assuming the heater core is inside the left device, and not the right? the one on the right looks like a motor, with a filter of some type in front of it...

I assume you mean the third to last pic? This one: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...uctremoved.jpg

The heater core is located in the center piece, right behind where the stereo would be. You can see the top of it in the picture, along with the pipes going through the firewall. The second to last picture is a close up of that black box there the heater core is located: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...dstripping.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by great1

I just replaced the heater core on my 92 4Runner using shaeff's post. As I went along I took many pictures to help me put it back together. I have them uploaded to my Facebook page if you want to take a look or to use so you do not have to take pictures as you go along to remember where and how everything goes together. I took about 60 plus pictures, but it does not cover everything. The one piece of advice I have after the whole experience is to leave the 4 controls cables attached to the a/c control console (They control the temperature of the air, the ducts the air goes through, the fan speed, and the air intake.) I found out the best way to get this obstacle out of the way is to detach the cables at the end where it is attached to each device the control operates. The end to remove has a eye. I broke 2 of the ends attached to the console and it cost me an extra $30 to fix. Luckily I actually found the 2 parts pulled from a guy in Addison, instead of having to go to a junk yard.

see pictures here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...82&id=54603191

Cool.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that the cables should be left on the HVAC unit, and disconnected from the heater box vents and the heater valve (on the firewall in the engine bay). By the way, your pics say "temporarily unavailable."

91Toyota · 11-16-2009, 04:01 PM

what reasons would you replace a heater core for? I replaced a heater core because it was leaking...but my truck takes a long time to heat up...i'm wondering if its partly due to the heater core being clogged. Not sure???

HAI-TEK7 · 11-16-2009, 04:43 PM

Its funny this got revived. I have to remove my dash this weekend and this thread came up on the search.

Great write up!

09-07-2007, 09:35 PM	#2 (permalink)
KevinInSac Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Sacramento, CA (Carmichael) Posts: 1,059	That's looks pretty damn involved. I hate diving into the dash. I was going to buy another heater core and drill/tap for a sender for an afermarket temp gauge. How long did it take you? __________________ 92 ExCab Pickup SR5 3.0 5spd 4X4 Pretty much stock. I've done some stuff though.

09-07-2007, 09:41 PM	#3 (permalink)
shaeff Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: near Kingston, NY Posts: 294	it took me pretty much all day, but i was doing several other projects at the same time. if i were only doing this, it would only have taken about 3 hours or so, tops. i had a coffee break in the morning, lunch break shortly after (i was up early that day), helped my friend with his brakes, rotors, calipers, helped another friend work on his jeep figuring out electrical gremlins, etc... but it's really pretty straight forward. just take your time, and feel for each screw you have to remove. -shaeff __________________ My heatercore replacement writeup with pics. -'94 Toyota 4X4, 22re, 31X10.5 BFG M/T's, 5 speed, MC rear bumper. (Winter DD/ off road fun) -'95 BMW M3, modded/suspension, sticky rubber, back road monster (Summer DD) -86.5 Toyota Supra, too much to list. (Never-ending project)

09-07-2007, 10:12 PM	#4 (permalink)
KevinInSac Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Sacramento, CA (Carmichael) Posts: 1,059	Yeah. I gotta dig into the dash to hook up some CB stuff anyway... __________________ 92 ExCab Pickup SR5 3.0 5spd 4X4 Pretty much stock. I've done some stuff though.

09-07-2007, 10:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
shaeff Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: near Kingston, NY Posts: 294	you shouldn't have to go as deep as the heater core for CB stuff! -shaeff __________________ My heatercore replacement writeup with pics. -'94 Toyota 4X4, 22re, 31X10.5 BFG M/T's, 5 speed, MC rear bumper. (Winter DD/ off road fun) -'95 BMW M3, modded/suspension, sticky rubber, back road monster (Summer DD) -86.5 Toyota Supra, too much to list. (Never-ending project)

09-08-2007, 05:34 PM	#6 (permalink)
KevinInSac Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Sacramento, CA (Carmichael) Posts: 1,059	heh yeah, but I'm already half way there... I like to do everything at once. __________________ 92 ExCab Pickup SR5 3.0 5spd 4X4 Pretty much stock. I've done some stuff though.

09-09-2007, 08:31 AM	#7 (permalink)
shaeff Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: near Kingston, NY Posts: 294	true, better to pull it and get it over with than to do it half way, twice! -shaeff __________________ My heatercore replacement writeup with pics. -'94 Toyota 4X4, 22re, 31X10.5 BFG M/T's, 5 speed, MC rear bumper. (Winter DD/ off road fun) -'95 BMW M3, modded/suspension, sticky rubber, back road monster (Summer DD) -86.5 Toyota Supra, too much to list. (Never-ending project)

01-04-2008, 07:06 PM	#8 (permalink)
propheadj Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1	That was awesome Thanks that post really helped me out today. The Haynes manual is worthless sometimes.

02-21-2008, 08:13 PM	#9 (permalink)
91toybeater Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 20	heater control cable routing I inherited this beast and somebody put a new heater core in it. I think they may have crossed a couple of cables. When I move the lever from cold to hot, the water valve opens alright but the recirculation door also opens . Hard to get any real hot air moving when cold air is coming in all the time when in heat mode. I would hope that the recirculation lever would do that but I've not been able to find a diagram of the cables in the fsm or clymers manual. could you verify which lever moves which door or valve. thanks paul

02-21-2008, 08:58 PM	#12 (permalink)
ozziesironmanoffroad Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Spring Valley, CA Posts: 5,676	sounds like its in the heater core alright, matt16. __________________ The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back. 1988 Toyota P/U 4x4 22re, 1200 miles on the rebuild engine builder .268 cam pioneer CD deck 31x10.50x15 BFG A/T BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper KC Daylighters 100W rancho rs5000 MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB! If not living life to the fullest, why live it? my trucks official buildup thread

11-14-2009, 08:49 AM	#13 (permalink)
hgkittyhawk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: va beach va Posts: 12	thanks i got it i had remove the white thing with the lever on it then it came out

11-14-2009, 10:27 AM	#15 (permalink)
peckinpah Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 38	Dashboards! Schmashboards! Who needs 'em? I think I'd prefer to just drive around like this all the time and dispense with the stupid dashboard.

11-14-2009, 04:02 PM	#16 (permalink)
iamsuperbleeder Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Casselberry, Fl Posts: 5,232	wow I'm glad this got revived, lol, I have to do mine soon; I have the new heater core and new hoses and everything already, just need the time to do it props on the great write-up! __________________ 91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system MySpace

11-15-2009, 09:08 AM	#17 (permalink)
hgkittyhawk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: va beach va Posts: 12	heater core Give your self plenty of time and be patients.It goes back together easy.If you air you have to discharge it first. Then its a bunch of screws and 10 millimeters bolts and four 12 millimeters bolts.

11-15-2009, 10:30 AM	#19 (permalink)
rangerruck Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 244	I'm new at all things auto/mechanical so I have a question; in the 2nd to the last pic, you show two devices, with the duct removed from between the two. Am I right in assuming the heater core is inside the left device, and not the right? the one on the right looks like a motor, with a filter of some type in front of it...

11-15-2009, 10:44 AM	#20 (permalink)
874runnersr5 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Calgary, AB Canaduh Posts: 2,783	i do not look forward to replacing my heater core soon. __________________ 87' 4runner Sr5 : 22re : 5spd : 32x11.5 BGF Km2 : Cragar 15x8 soft 8s : TG Rock Defense Front Bumper : Sirius radio : Optima Red Top : Pioneer system : Engnbldr tchain kit : Downey 3" leafs : Diff breather : Tube doors : Bikini Top Calgary Toyota Association I <3 my Toyota

11-15-2009, 10:52 AM	#21 (permalink)
hgkittyhawk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: va beach va Posts: 12	the motor is to the right.The air is in the middle.the heater box is behind the radio.the heater box comes out where the glove box would be.

11-15-2009, 02:58 PM	#22 (permalink)
great1 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: DFW Posts: 2	1992 Heater Core Replacement I just replaced the heater core on my 92 4Runner using shaeff's post. As I went along I took many pictures to help me put it back together. I have them uploaded to my Facebook page if you want to take a look or to use so you do not have to take pictures as you go along to remember where and how everything goes together. I took about 60 plus pictures, but it does not cover everything. The one piece of advice I have after the whole experience is to leave the 4 controls cables attached to the a/c control console (They control the temperature of the air, the ducts the air goes through, the fan speed, and the air intake.) I found out the best way to get this obstacle out of the way is to detach the cables at the end where it is attached to each device the control operates. The end to remove has a eye. I broke 2 of the ends attached to the console and it cost me an extra $30 to fix. Luckily I actually found the 2 parts pulled from a guy in Addison, instead of having to go to a junk yard. see pictures here: http://s978.photobucket.com/albums/a...Heater%20Core/ Last edited by great1; 11-17-2009 at 11:53 AM.

11-16-2009, 04:43 PM	#25 (permalink)
HAI-TEK7 Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Lancaster, PA Posts: 59	Its funny this got revived. I have to remove my dash this weekend and this thread came up on the search. Great write up! __________________ 90 22RE, 5SP, 4WD, Stock.

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