Genesis98

Anybody know if fuse boxes and wiring harness color codes stayed the same during the 90 - 95 time period?

Noltz

Your question is incomplete; Harness / colors for 90-95 what? Pickup, Runners, SR5, DX, Plain?

Cuz I'm bored, I called one dealership for ya;

1) Can I get a price and part number for a '90 4Runner fuse box?
$159.70 PN:82670-89108 (left kick panel box)

2) Can I get a price and fuse panel for a '95 4Runner fuse box?

If the numbers stay the same, it's fairly safe to say the harnesses are interchangeable.

SLOWBOOST

no, they are not the same colors. auto and manual are also different colors too thru the years.

Genesis98

well I answered my own question when I opened the new fuse box up to see if it was similar it was! only things left to figure out now is why my alternator is not charging and why my headlights aren't working. *btw some splicing of connectors had to take place because old connections were badly corroded* Colors all figured out.

abecedarian

fusible links maybe?
I believe there are two on the alternator, and I think one of them also feeds the accessory/dash/lighting wiring

Genesis98

Well here is where things get Sticky. When I bought the truck it had electrical issues due to corroded connections in the fuse box. At the time everything worked *well at times everything worked*. Aswell the heater controls did not work this was remedied by a direct wiring from the accessory to the HVAC to provide voltage (So yeah my heater is always on but that's okay). I also put 2 brand new headlights in and they worked fine.


So I order the new/used fuse box and replace some of the connectors by splicing them in. I try to start the truck but no worky battery is dead. I recharge the battery and BAM truck works but headlights don't work and indicators don't work and whole hockey sock full of lights on the dash. I discover a few weeks later battery is dead ... OH NOES... Did I wire incorrectly ? Fuse box? Has it been sitting so long that alternator has seized?

So today I finally got around to shagging around with the truck for a while I take a look at my splicing job and wiring colors everything looks fine. Connections look fine then I look at both fuse boxes and I notices a big difference, mainly the large relay on the back of the newly installed fuse box but as luck would have it, easily removable. So I take it off and the wire that it was previously connected to fits into the connector on the back of the fuse box like it was on the old fuse box. This resolved the issue of a bunch of lights being on. Now the only lights on are Battery, Brake and Rear Diff and the indicators work.

Still no headlights and still no idea if alternator is charging. Friend that was with me suggested checking alternator by seing if a screw driver would stick to it while it was running due to magnitisim. Another suggestion was removing negative terminal of battery while running *which sounded like a stupid thing to do but he did it while I wasn't looking and the truck shut off.*

abecedarian

best way to check the alt is charging is measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine off, then with the engine running
With engine off, volts should be 11.5-13.0 volts and running should be 13.5-15 (but 14.3 is more realistic).