Where do I go from here? Need expert advice on gearing, locker, armor.
02-06-2009, 11:29 PM
#21
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Buy a set of diffs from a 92-95 4runner or pickup with:
3vze
auto
31" tire package from the factory
These 4.88 diffs usually go from 200-350 a set. They will drop right into your truck. Rear can be done in the driveway, I did both of mine that way. IF you can bleed your brakes, you can do it!
3vze
auto
31" tire package from the factory
These 4.88 diffs usually go from 200-350 a set. They will drop right into your truck. Rear can be done in the driveway, I did both of mine that way. IF you can bleed your brakes, you can do it!
I completely disagree with this order. Thats just my opinion... I wheel every weekend and although I'm not in a Toyota at the moment I know a thing or two about wheeling. THINGS HAPPEN. You don't think your gonna slid but you do, or you get high centered and the only place to jack is the side to get you unstuck. In my personal opinion (for what its worth) I would not own a 4x4 without some sort of side protection. Sliders are the first thing you should buy no matter what terrain you wheel. Thats my opinion. My next choice would be a locker but I also recommend really wheeling what you have hard with open diffs first. I don't know how much or often you wheel but learning to pick the right lines, your width, ground clearance all from the drivers seat will teach you right off the bat how to wheel. Then a locker should come. It will take you places you never thought possible. If you decide open diffs for a while then my next mod after sliders would be a better t-case skid. I have never heard a bad thing from bud built. The thing I love love love about yota's over heeps is Gears! between extra t-cases and much lower gears available you can stop riding that clutch and really have some fun. Thats my take on the matter.
When I buy another toy this is the list of things I will buy in the order I think necessary.
1. Sliders
2. Rear Aussie
3. Dual case kit
4. T-case skid
5. SAS kit
I personally need a Solid axle for the terrain I wheel the most. Your list may be different but hopefully I can give you a little help deciding.
When I buy another toy this is the list of things I will buy in the order I think necessary.
1. Sliders
2. Rear Aussie
3. Dual case kit
4. T-case skid
5. SAS kit
I personally need a Solid axle for the terrain I wheel the most. Your list may be different but hopefully I can give you a little help deciding.
02-07-2009, 06:39 AM
#22
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No not really. I would rock the 33's on 4.11's for a while. sliders and locker will give you alot of performance you are looking for.
02-07-2009, 06:43 AM
#23
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Depends where your goals are.
DO you mind body damage? if you do then i would get some armor. I left my stock rear bumper on there for a while. It folded like an aluminum can, but better than destroying the body.
Lockers and gearing is one of the best mods for offroad IMO. It makes its soo much funner to be able to actually crawler over stuff slower from the lower gearing. ANd the locker is night and day, compared to open differentials.
I already did all of the above, now i need the armour, well and longfields.
. And a whole bunch of other things, oh it never ends....
DO you mind body damage? if you do then i would get some armor. I left my stock rear bumper on there for a while. It folded like an aluminum can, but better than destroying the body.
Lockers and gearing is one of the best mods for offroad IMO. It makes its soo much funner to be able to actually crawler over stuff slower from the lower gearing. ANd the locker is night and day, compared to open differentials.
I already did all of the above, now i need the armour, well and longfields.
. And a whole bunch of other things, oh it never ends....
02-08-2009, 11:15 AM
#24
dude... the rear dif swap is easy as pie... if you need help, im right here in sacramento and i just did it to mine...
and shoot ZUK an email... gearinstalls@gmail.com
he will list out everything you need... and if you need a rear third member, i have a housing that the guts are shot in that came out of my truck...
then you just gotta buy the gears and bearings and ship em out to ZUK for build...
and shoot ZUK an email... gearinstalls@gmail.com
he will list out everything you need... and if you need a rear third member, i have a housing that the guts are shot in that came out of my truck...
then you just gotta buy the gears and bearings and ship em out to ZUK for build...
02-08-2009, 01:25 PM
#25
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02-08-2009, 02:04 PM
#26
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ice swapped a rear diff 6 times is the front any harder i wanna lock it up.. think im going to keep my 4runner that i was gonna sell.. something about this blue second gens that get me in the heart 
11-11-2009, 12:32 AM
#27
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Ok, so now that Aussie makes a locker for the V6, I think I'm going with that route. But I'd like to get 4.88's done at the same time. Any suggestions on where to purchace the gears, and where to have them installed for a reasonable price. Also, should I get the Aussie installed with the gears, or do it myself? Thanks.
11-11-2009, 07:28 AM
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I haven't been following your thread, but I will now that I've read it. We're in the same place with our trucks. I'm running 33s with 4.10s, open diffs, it's my DD, but it won't be forever and I want to get to work on it. I'm looking at the same list of mods in the same order. Maybe a locker will be a better first mod for off road use, but these 4.10s are just barely tolerable. They have to go, now. I'll be going 4.88. I figure it would be a shame not to do the gears and locker at the same time, so I'm shopping. I'm overseas, and I drive the truck daily, so I'm gonna have to buy new thirds, set them up, and swap them on a Saturday. If I find anything usefull for you I'll pass it on.
The advice I'll bring to the table is not to waste your time checking the door code to get your current gear ration unless you know the complete history of your truck. My code shows 3.15s, but I have 4.10s (maybe 4.30s, I only did a few rotations when I figured it up, it's not really important to me to know which). The original owner must have regeared it when he went to the 31s that were on it when the second owner bought it. Then #2 put 33s on it without regearnig again. #2 doesn't know much about trucks, so he couldn't tell me much of anything when I bought it except that it had 31s when he bought it and he blew a HG racing his boss in the mountains.
The advice I'll bring to the table is not to waste your time checking the door code to get your current gear ration unless you know the complete history of your truck. My code shows 3.15s, but I have 4.10s (maybe 4.30s, I only did a few rotations when I figured it up, it's not really important to me to know which). The original owner must have regeared it when he went to the 31s that were on it when the second owner bought it. Then #2 put 33s on it without regearnig again. #2 doesn't know much about trucks, so he couldn't tell me much of anything when I bought it except that it had 31s when he bought it and he blew a HG racing his boss in the mountains.
11-11-2009, 08:45 PM
#29
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I haven't been following your thread, but I will now that I've read it. We're in the same place with our trucks. I'm running 33s with 4.10s, open diffs, it's my DD, but it won't be forever and I want to get to work on it. I'm looking at the same list of mods in the same order. Maybe a locker will be a better first mod for off road use, but these 4.10s are just barely tolerable. They have to go, now. I'll be going 4.88. I figure it would be a shame not to do the gears and locker at the same time, so I'm shopping. I'm overseas, and I drive the truck daily, so I'm gonna have to buy new thirds, set them up, and swap them on a Saturday. If I find anything usefull for you I'll pass it on.
The advice I'll bring to the table is not to waste your time checking the door code to get your current gear ration unless you know the complete history of your truck. My code shows 3.15s, but I have 4.10s (maybe 4.30s, I only did a few rotations when I figured it up, it's not really important to me to know which). The original owner must have regeared it when he went to the 31s that were on it when the second owner bought it. Then #2 put 33s on it without regearnig again. #2 doesn't know much about trucks, so he couldn't tell me much of anything when I bought it except that it had 31s when he bought it and he blew a HG racing his boss in the mountains.
The advice I'll bring to the table is not to waste your time checking the door code to get your current gear ration unless you know the complete history of your truck. My code shows 3.15s, but I have 4.10s (maybe 4.30s, I only did a few rotations when I figured it up, it's not really important to me to know which). The original owner must have regeared it when he went to the 31s that were on it when the second owner bought it. Then #2 put 33s on it without regearnig again. #2 doesn't know much about trucks, so he couldn't tell me much of anything when I bought it except that it had 31s when he bought it and he blew a HG racing his boss in the mountains.
11-11-2009, 08:48 PM
#30
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Any thoughts on where to buy gears, and where to get them installed? Also, does getting the gears, and the locker installed at the same time sound like a good idea? What brand of gears is good? Cost is a factor, and I'd like to keep the budget within reason, as in under $800 if it's possible.
11-12-2009, 08:24 PM
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Honestly, i know alot of people love aussies and lockrights and similar lockers.
That being said i ran a v6 locker out back for about 2 years and it was fine. But when it finally broke it took a tooth on my ring gear.
Im welded out back now and prefer that much more. The only downside is the tire wear, which is much more noticeable, but its much more predictable than the lockright i had was.
My $0.02... im happy with my setup now.. Welded rear/lockright front, i just think the bigger tires stress the locker too much for a DD'er..
That being said i ran a v6 locker out back for about 2 years and it was fine. But when it finally broke it took a tooth on my ring gear.
Im welded out back now and prefer that much more. The only downside is the tire wear, which is much more noticeable, but its much more predictable than the lockright i had was.
My $0.02... im happy with my setup now.. Welded rear/lockright front, i just think the bigger tires stress the locker too much for a DD'er..
11-12-2009, 08:26 PM
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BTW..
That was a yukon gear set, and was setup by zuk.. I talked to him and we came to the conclusion that when the locker broke, the shock must have broken that tooth..
Called marlin and they said they would waranty since i only had that gear set for less than 1year.. Still need to send it in.
This all happened pulling into my buddy's driveway..
That was a yukon gear set, and was setup by zuk.. I talked to him and we came to the conclusion that when the locker broke, the shock must have broken that tooth..
Called marlin and they said they would waranty since i only had that gear set for less than 1year.. Still need to send it in.
This all happened pulling into my buddy's driveway..
11-18-2009, 10:46 PM
#35
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Ouch, that looks rough 904.
I'm hoping to take this out of the planning phases in February, because I think I'll maybe have some extra money by then, hopefully. lol
I'm hoping to take this out of the planning phases in February, because I think I'll maybe have some extra money by then, hopefully. lol
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