Wheel "wobble"
#1
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Wheel "wobble"
Need some help on what to search for ...
When I was putting on the 'wheeling tires, I noticed the driver's side front wheel "rocks" when pushed at 12 and 6, but not at 9 and 3.
Balljoints? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?
When I was putting on the 'wheeling tires, I noticed the driver's side front wheel "rocks" when pushed at 12 and 6, but not at 9 and 3.
Balljoints? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?
#2
If you are getting a loose feeling (like your lugnuts are loose), your bearings just need to be repacked. A bad ball joint would require a lot more pressure to notice the play (you'd need to pry up from underneath your tire with a bar).
Tie rod play would be at 9 and 3.
Tie rod play would be at 9 and 3.
#7
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Thread Starter
I finally found the instructions in the online FSM ... is this really something I should do myself or would it be worth it to pay someone? Looks like there's not a whole lot too it, but seems kinda finicky about drag and torques and stuff...
The truck has about 190k miles and I wheel pretty frequently. Would it be a good idea to just replace the bearings while I'm in there?
The truck has about 190k miles and I wheel pretty frequently. Would it be a good idea to just replace the bearings while I'm in there?
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#8
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Originally Posted by Toyopnoy
Sorry to hijack, will Lithium based grease be good for this?
#9
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Originally Posted by tc
I finally found the instructions in the online FSM ... is this really something I should do myself or would it be worth it to pay someone? Looks like there's not a whole lot too it, but seems kinda finicky about drag and torques and stuff...
The truck has about 190k miles and I wheel pretty frequently. Would it be a good idea to just replace the bearings while I'm in there?
The truck has about 190k miles and I wheel pretty frequently. Would it be a good idea to just replace the bearings while I'm in there?
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/wheel_bearing.html
#12
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Location: Binghamton NY- Port Richey FL
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Originally Posted by ChickenLover
Been there, done that many times. Repack the bearings.
#14
Originally Posted by lVlr_87
36mm socket for the spindle nuts. Use Moly grease.
Originally Posted by Asha'man
2 1/4" works too. I got mine at Sears for about $22.
Brian
Brian
Last edited by ChickenLover; 06-03-2006 at 11:32 PM.
#17
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Thread Starter
OK, I FINALLY found a brass punch, (Sears, local big hardware store, Advance, Autozone, Tractor Supply didn't have one or even any brass stock I could use) so I think I have everything:
2-1/8" socket + 3/4"-> 1/2" drive adapter
1/2" drive torque wrench
3/4" brass punch
Inner oil seal
inner bearing
inner race
outer bearing
grease
I forgot to get the spindle lockwasher. I'm going to see if anywhere has it in stock after work - the FSM says it's a nonreusable part, any thoughts?
Doesn't look like there is an outer seal - is that correct?
2-1/8" socket + 3/4"-> 1/2" drive adapter
1/2" drive torque wrench
3/4" brass punch
Inner oil seal
inner bearing
inner race
outer bearing
grease
I forgot to get the spindle lockwasher. I'm going to see if anywhere has it in stock after work - the FSM says it's a nonreusable part, any thoughts?
Doesn't look like there is an outer seal - is that correct?
#18
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Originally Posted by tc
I forgot to get the spindle lockwasher. I'm going to see if anywhere has it in stock after work - the FSM says it's a nonreusable part, any thoughts?
Doesn't look like there is an outer seal - is that correct?
Doesn't look like there is an outer seal - is that correct?
And as far as I remember, no outer seal. That part is sealed off with the ADD flange or your manual hubs.
#19
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Thread Starter
Did it tonight, took 2.5 hrs, including having to go get the neighbor to help me bleed the brakes.
One little hint - clean ALL the grease out of the hub and you'll see little notches where you can get your brass punch in to knock the races out easier.
One little hint - clean ALL the grease out of the hub and you'll see little notches where you can get your brass punch in to knock the races out easier.
#20
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Originally Posted by tc
Did it tonight, took 2.5 hrs, including having to go get the neighbor to help me bleed the brakes.
One little hint - clean ALL the grease out of the hub and you'll see little notches where you can get your brass punch in to knock the races out easier.
One little hint - clean ALL the grease out of the hub and you'll see little notches where you can get your brass punch in to knock the races out easier.
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