Trying to get a straight answer about fitting 35"s
#46
Registered User
#48
Contributing Member
Good lord.
Lots of speculation here.
I am running 35's.
I go wheeling.
I have no lift:
It does not rub in the front. Only in the rear because I didn't trim enough out. See my build thread on how to make them fit. Essentially, you cut out the back of the fender and weld it back up I also modified my upper a-arms because I am dead set on running stock rims. If you are willing to go for aftermarket, then you would not need to modify the arms.
Lots of speculation here.
I am running 35's.
I go wheeling.
I have no lift:
It does not rub in the front. Only in the rear because I didn't trim enough out. See my build thread on how to make them fit. Essentially, you cut out the back of the fender and weld it back up I also modified my upper a-arms because I am dead set on running stock rims. If you are willing to go for aftermarket, then you would not need to modify the arms.
Last edited by AxleIke; 08-03-2010 at 08:26 AM.
#50
Contributing Member
Good lord.
ATTENTION PEOPLE: stop reading stupid magazines and silly internet stuff.
If you want a capable rig that is REASONABLY stable, you need big tires and little to NO lift. Get out the sawzall, grinder and welder.
Going with HUGE lifts just makes you a pain when everyone has to constantly winch you back onto your tires after you roll at every obstacle on the trail.
ATTENTION PEOPLE: stop reading stupid magazines and silly internet stuff.
If you want a capable rig that is REASONABLY stable, you need big tires and little to NO lift. Get out the sawzall, grinder and welder.
Going with HUGE lifts just makes you a pain when everyone has to constantly winch you back onto your tires after you roll at every obstacle on the trail.
#53
Registered User
if you can afford a lift, you should do it that way, there is no reason to go the cheap and easy way out of you can do it the best and right way. Your truck looks too nice to be cuttin up. BTW great job with he paint.
#54
Contributing Member
It's both the best way and right way, as it keeps your COG low, and keeps you from rolling your junk every 10 minutes. Been on a few trails with sky high rigs, and they like to end up on their lids.
If he wants to keep things intact, then he has the right idea, run a smaller tire, and enjoy it.
For others searching this thread, its good to have the proper information out there. Lifts are generally not the way to go for more difficult wheeling. Small lifts are fine for most stuff. 3" body + 4" suspension = stupid except on a street only truck.
Last edited by AxleIke; 08-03-2010 at 10:00 AM.
#55
Registered User
Cutting is neither cheap nor easy.
It's both the best way and right way, as it keeps your COG low, and keeps you from rolling your junk every 10 minutes. Been on a few trails with sky high rigs, and they like to end up on their lids.
If he wants to keep things intact, then he has the right idea, run a smaller tire, and enjoy it.
For others searching this thread, its good to have the proper information out there. Lifts are generally not the way to go for more difficult wheeling. Small lifts are fine for most stuff. 3" body + 4" suspension = stupid except on a street only truck.
It's both the best way and right way, as it keeps your COG low, and keeps you from rolling your junk every 10 minutes. Been on a few trails with sky high rigs, and they like to end up on their lids.
If he wants to keep things intact, then he has the right idea, run a smaller tire, and enjoy it.
For others searching this thread, its good to have the proper information out there. Lifts are generally not the way to go for more difficult wheeling. Small lifts are fine for most stuff. 3" body + 4" suspension = stupid except on a street only truck.
i agree, he should use the smaller tires
#56
Cutting is neither cheap nor easy.
It's both the best way and right way, as it keeps your COG low, and keeps you from rolling your junk every 10 minutes. Been on a few trails with sky high rigs, and they like to end up on their lids.
If he wants to keep things intact, then he has the right idea, run a smaller tire, and enjoy it.
For others searching this thread, its good to have the proper information out there. Lifts are generally not the way to go for more difficult wheeling. Small lifts are fine for most stuff. 3" body + 4" suspension = stupid except on a street only truck.
It's both the best way and right way, as it keeps your COG low, and keeps you from rolling your junk every 10 minutes. Been on a few trails with sky high rigs, and they like to end up on their lids.
If he wants to keep things intact, then he has the right idea, run a smaller tire, and enjoy it.
For others searching this thread, its good to have the proper information out there. Lifts are generally not the way to go for more difficult wheeling. Small lifts are fine for most stuff. 3" body + 4" suspension = stupid except on a street only truck.
Yeah, i'm gonna run 33x12.50's and call it a day.
#58
Registered User
Good lord.
ATTENTION PEOPLE: stop reading stupid magazines and silly internet stuff.
If you want a capable rig that is REASONABLY stable, you need big tires and little to NO lift. Get out the sawzall, grinder and welder.
Going with HUGE lifts just makes you a pain when everyone has to constantly winch you back onto your tires after you roll at every obstacle on the trail.
ATTENTION PEOPLE: stop reading stupid magazines and silly internet stuff.
If you want a capable rig that is REASONABLY stable, you need big tires and little to NO lift. Get out the sawzall, grinder and welder.
Going with HUGE lifts just makes you a pain when everyone has to constantly winch you back onto your tires after you roll at every obstacle on the trail.
I'm running about 5" of lift & 39.5's. I cut 5" of sheetmetal out of the rear 4Runner quarterpanel and tubbed the firewall all the way back to the body mount to gain enough clearance in the front.
After wheeling it this weekend and seeing how much better the rigs do that are 2-5" lower then I am, my winter plans will include lowering the 4Runner. I hope to get it at least 2" lower and will shoot for more. That includes bumpstoping the compression travel for sure in the rear (& most likely in the front).