demolishionc4

ok i have a 89 toyota pickup 4wd with a 22re and one day i decided to go fill it up and on the way to the gas station the truck was acting weird and the rpm gauge was jumping all over the place but it eventually smothened out. well i got the the station, filled it up and then it was really hard to get the engine to start and i got out the parken lot and the dam thing died and when i try to start it up it will start for a milisecound then die and ive tryed alot of diffent things, i have replaced the magnetic pickup in the distributer, a new cap and button, fuel pump checks out fine, i even bypassed the afm by linking b+ with fp and still nothing. im lost on what it possibly could be. but the main thing that confuses me is the rpm gauge jumping, if anyone can help me then i would greatly apriciate it

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

check the plugs! Check the fuel filter! check the cheap stuff! battery connections, alternator, battery, plug wires, And timing!

demolishionc4

well the plugs are only 4 months old and the batery connectors are fine, havent checked the filter yet and the battery is rather new, same thing with the alternator, and the timing is fine

sb5walker

The rpm signal comes from the igniter, so check the igniter connections, clean up the igniter ground (mounting bolts), check resistance on both circuits of the coil per fsm spec. Check for power on pos terminal of the coil when ignition is on. If all that checks out, verify ecu terminal E1's continuity with chassis ground, and terms E01/E02 ground to engine block.

It's possible the igniter has gone south, but I would exhaust the other possibilities first.

With all that I would expect a code or two. Have you checked?

crawlerjunkie

Check plug gap, injector connections, MAF connection. maybe fuel pump?

demolishionc4

yea but there no new codes that i alredy dont know, tps and the knock sensor, thats cause i lost the knock sensor when i put the new engine in and the tps just wont tell the engine when its idleing but the rest of the resistance seams to be working fine. i gues this is what i get for paying 200 bucks for a truck

baliff

On the fuel pump when you jump the Fp to +B in the diagnois box should the sound from the fuel pump be easily heard? And what if you dont hear it. I am having the same problem with my 91 22re.

demolishionc4

well when i do the jump its a high pich noise and i believe its workin.. it sounds normal but i have no REAL way of testing the pressure or the flow

limon32

I'd sure replace that fuel filter, likely needs to be done (unless you've done it recently), even if its not the problem, sounds probable though.

I've had a similar problem when I had water in the gas too. Replaced filter and drained tank, which solved the problem.

nintythree4runner

if you have aftermarket intake check that.i know my yota did the same thing and that was cas there was a huge crack in the intake.

leitnin

I had an issue somewhat similar. not a 4runner, but car was fine, went to get it smogged at the cali referee. On the way home, it was bucking and would die. Might start up, might not. Pulled over and found that they had somehow f-ed up my battery cable and it was being crushed by the trans and shorting out everytime the weight shifted from accel and decel.

Everything looked normal until i saw sparks from behind the trans.

jpsstewart3

vacuum hoses??? i know if you dont put them back together right they can cause a problem like this. you can check by taking a stethascope to them and listen for a hissing. if theyre real bad you can kind of feel it (more noticable than other ones) when you lightly touch it.

demolishionc4

well i know the vacuum hoses are fine cause i followed a diagram i got on the forum so i really think its somethin electrical. im gonna see if i can check the resistance in my ignitor tomorrow and see what i get

sb5walker

Not the igniter but the coil. See the IGNITION - ON VEHICLE INSPECTION section of the factory service manual for specs.

I forgot to mention in my earlier post you should also check the resistance of the signal coil in the distributor & check clearance on all four lobes of the signal rotor - specs in fsm section referenced above.

Also check and clean up all the igniter's connections, especially its ground through the mounting bolts.

demolishionc4

ok the primary winding on the coil is fine and i have no idea how to check the secondary coil. but i did fine this to be weird, when the ignition is in the on position, there is + volatage on both the negative and positive of the coil.

sb5walker

The primary coil is checked by testing for resistance between the pos and neg terminals, and it's normal to have volts on both when ignition is on, in fact it would be a problem if there wasn't.

Secondary coil reading is taken between the pos terminal and the high-voltage terminal where the wire to the distributor connects.

demolishionc4

well i tried that and i didnt get anything so i think thats bad

sb5walker

Yup. Sounds like a bad coil.

demolishionc4

i hope its just that and not anything else, im gonna get one tomorrow probably and let yall know how it works out

sb5walker

Low resistance on the primary coil circuit can damage the igniter, but a problem on the secondary circuit usually will not.

Good luck, and let us know how you make out.