Trouble Codes 11 & 14 Help
#1
Trouble Codes 11 & 14 Help
First off, I have looked across the forums for other threads that may help, no one seems to have a problem that mirrors mine in a way that I understand. If you know of a thread that covers my problem, please post a link. I really appreciate it.
So, I have a 1991 Pickup 4wd 22re, ~180k miles on it. I recently rebuilt the engine, rebored the cylinders to the next size up, and ever since putting it back together it keeps giving out engine codes 11 & 14. I have attempted to locate the problem and found nothing satisfactory. When I reset the ECU by pulling and replacing the EFI fuse or disconnecting the battery, the truck runs fantastically, it has good acceleration from stopped and while moving, it charges up steep Pittsburgh hills with good torque, and everything seems normal. At some point, the check engine light will come back on (I haven't correlated this with a certain number of miles of driving or MPH) and the truck will feel boggy- it accelerates poorly, hills are a challenge, and it seems to go through gas more rapidly and run hotter. Now, the last two are very subjective, I haven't driven a whole lot because of this problem, so it is really a "seems to" sort of thing... I feel as though the gas gauge needle drops more rapidly, and while it doesn't get anywhere near overheating, the temp gauge needle will go past the halfway mark, which seems like it's running hotter than it should. Occasionally I have had to pump the gas to get it to start, but that seems to correlate to being parked on a steep hill. Otherwise, no problems starting. Most likely unrelated, there may be a short on the right turn signal wiring, it blows the fuse intermittently when used.
I know that 11 is "loss of power to ECU".
Code 14 is no IGF signal to ECU for 6 or more ignition events. I kind of get that, and I've checked some things, but I feel like I'm at a dead end.
What I do know- spark plugs, cables, distributor cap and rotor are all brand new. Timing is within spec. When I test for plug spark, each sparks appropriately. The ignition coil tests within spec for ohms, but just barely. Each fuel injector was cleaned and rebuilt with new o rings and little filters, each injector makes appropriate clicking noises while running. The thermostat, coolant temp sender, ECU temp sender, oil pressure switch and TPS are all new. TPS is set within spec. All vacuum lines are new. The ECU, for all I can tell, is fine; I pulled it out, checked the connectors, no corrosion or oxidation, cleaned up some rust on the brackets that mount it to the body (I'm not sure if any of them are grounds, but they have good contact to the body). All the engine grounds and the two grounds next to the driver side fuse box under the kick plate all have good contact. Everything that might benefit from a little dielectric grease has it. All exhaust components are firmly bolted, most are torqued. All gaskets are new. Valves have been adjusted ad nauseam. All the sensors are plugged in. Compression is fine. Some time ago I pulled the spark plugs and they had slightly different coloration, some had light black soot and others had light white soot, but that was before I had gotten the timing well set, and the difference between plugs was subtle. I keep forgetting to pull the spark plugs and look at them again, I'll do that when I get a chance.
So, does anyone have any ideas or resources? I don't know where to go from here. Thank u=you in advance for assistance.
So, I have a 1991 Pickup 4wd 22re, ~180k miles on it. I recently rebuilt the engine, rebored the cylinders to the next size up, and ever since putting it back together it keeps giving out engine codes 11 & 14. I have attempted to locate the problem and found nothing satisfactory. When I reset the ECU by pulling and replacing the EFI fuse or disconnecting the battery, the truck runs fantastically, it has good acceleration from stopped and while moving, it charges up steep Pittsburgh hills with good torque, and everything seems normal. At some point, the check engine light will come back on (I haven't correlated this with a certain number of miles of driving or MPH) and the truck will feel boggy- it accelerates poorly, hills are a challenge, and it seems to go through gas more rapidly and run hotter. Now, the last two are very subjective, I haven't driven a whole lot because of this problem, so it is really a "seems to" sort of thing... I feel as though the gas gauge needle drops more rapidly, and while it doesn't get anywhere near overheating, the temp gauge needle will go past the halfway mark, which seems like it's running hotter than it should. Occasionally I have had to pump the gas to get it to start, but that seems to correlate to being parked on a steep hill. Otherwise, no problems starting. Most likely unrelated, there may be a short on the right turn signal wiring, it blows the fuse intermittently when used.
I know that 11 is "loss of power to ECU".
Code 14 is no IGF signal to ECU for 6 or more ignition events. I kind of get that, and I've checked some things, but I feel like I'm at a dead end.
What I do know- spark plugs, cables, distributor cap and rotor are all brand new. Timing is within spec. When I test for plug spark, each sparks appropriately. The ignition coil tests within spec for ohms, but just barely. Each fuel injector was cleaned and rebuilt with new o rings and little filters, each injector makes appropriate clicking noises while running. The thermostat, coolant temp sender, ECU temp sender, oil pressure switch and TPS are all new. TPS is set within spec. All vacuum lines are new. The ECU, for all I can tell, is fine; I pulled it out, checked the connectors, no corrosion or oxidation, cleaned up some rust on the brackets that mount it to the body (I'm not sure if any of them are grounds, but they have good contact to the body). All the engine grounds and the two grounds next to the driver side fuse box under the kick plate all have good contact. Everything that might benefit from a little dielectric grease has it. All exhaust components are firmly bolted, most are torqued. All gaskets are new. Valves have been adjusted ad nauseam. All the sensors are plugged in. Compression is fine. Some time ago I pulled the spark plugs and they had slightly different coloration, some had light black soot and others had light white soot, but that was before I had gotten the timing well set, and the difference between plugs was subtle. I keep forgetting to pull the spark plugs and look at them again, I'll do that when I get a chance.
So, does anyone have any ideas or resources? I don't know where to go from here. Thank u=you in advance for assistance.
Last edited by actiondaniel; 11-18-2021 at 12:18 AM.
#2
Registered User
The ignition coil tests within spec for ohms, but just barely.
Having said that, did you check the coil ohms cold (engine not running for a while, hood open), AND/OR HOT? Good way to check it "hot" is to use an electronics heat gun, not...NOT...a paint stripper type heat gun. Use it to get the coil nice and hot to the touch, and THEN test the ohms. I'll wager they're out of spec. If so, you have a bad coil.
Just thought that may help a little...
Pat☺
#3
The coil ohms can change dramatically when it heats up. As the engine runs, it heats up, both from the heat generally present in the engine compartment, especially on the exhaust side of the engine, AND the energy the coil is altering as it flows through it.
Having said that, did you check the coil ohms cold (engine not running for a while, hood open), AND/OR HOT? Good way to check it "hot" is to use an electronics heat gun, not...NOT...a paint stripper type heat gun. Use it to get the coil nice and hot to the touch, and THEN test the ohms. I'll wager they're out of spec. If so, you have a bad coil.
Just thought that may help a little...
Pat☺
Having said that, did you check the coil ohms cold (engine not running for a while, hood open), AND/OR HOT? Good way to check it "hot" is to use an electronics heat gun, not...NOT...a paint stripper type heat gun. Use it to get the coil nice and hot to the touch, and THEN test the ohms. I'll wager they're out of spec. If so, you have a bad coil.
Just thought that may help a little...
Pat☺
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