BlazeN8

Well I decided to create a thread about steering upgrades for 1986-1995 IFS 4x4s. I've seen a few examples of what not to do.





I've also observed there are a lot of folks out there who are not understanding what goes into building these on your own. I've been frustrated even by my own customers, especially the DIY guys, thinking they will build there own steering based on the TC formula.

Heim-Steering Upgrade



Maximize wheel travel and component strength while eliminating sloppy steering.
4130 zinc plated extended chromoly tie-rods.
3/4" 4130 chromoly heim joints replace factory inner and outer tie rod ends.
Laser cut weld-on double shear steering arm gussets are included.
Grade 8 hardware and tapered steering arm adapters supplied.
Designed to fit TC long travel systems ONLY.
Part # 95099
Price $513.65

4WD King Kong Steering System



Increase steering response and upgrade component durability with this race proven steering system.
TC gusseted factory centerlink bolts to the stock location.
TC gusseted 4130 chromoly pitman arm features a 3/4" ID stainless steel uniball. (core is required)
Grade 8 hardware is supplied.
Fully rebuild able system.
Vehicle must have "Caddy" Idler arm and heim tie-rods to install.
Part # 95695
Price $709.02
----------------------------------------------------------------
Caddy Idler Arm



Custom 100% bolt on idler arm eliminates sloppy steering and provides better steering response when larger tires are installed.
Designed to handle extreme elements & perform under race conditions.
Laser cut brackets bolt to the factory idler arm mounting location.
Fully rebuild able idler arm features double stacked sealed roller bearings.
3/4" Grade 8 hardware includes an inner sleeve to prevent over tightening during maintenance.
Idler arm comes pre assembled.
Part # 95130
Price $389.17

Yeah, this setup is awesome! Sticker shock on the $513.65 price, 4 sure! But this is not just a collection of off the shelf Heims, Threaded Bungs, High Misalignment Spacers, and Chromoly Tubing you can easily fabricate on your own. Even if it was just that, your still looking at nearly $300 in parts and materials alone.

Typically one would think you could build the sleeves out of 1.25" OD tubing and use threaded bung tube inserts.



It won't work as the 1.25 tube won't clear the centerlink / idler / pitman arm rod ends and the frame. The sleeves need to be machined from 1.00 OD tube with the threads tapped into the tube ends as TC does. This consist of 11/16" drill bit and RH/LH Taps, another $100. The set up and labor for the machinist to do the lath work another $100, if your lucky.

The other problem is you cannot drill out the steering arm to 5/8" and use a straight bolt to use a 3/4 to 5/8 High Misalignment Spacer.



This won't achieve a high enough angle to allow any more than 12" of travel. It needs a 3/4 to 1/2 High Misalignment Spacer; on the right. This will attain the desired 13" travel.



Then the 1/2" bolt is too small for the tapered hole. So TC includes a tapered insert adaptor; on the right. Or you could machine a Heim Extension Pin; on the left (more lathe work)



Either way you may want to address the strength of a 1/2" bolt in single shear.



TC includes "a Laser cut weld-on double shear steering arm gusset" to address this problem (not pictured) (mock up shown for reference)


Now I'm not saying you need to go full blown TC "Heim-Steering Upgrade" with "4WD King Kong Steering System" with "Caddy Idler Arm", but if you can swing it and you want nothing but the best go for it.

Or, you can get by with the standard 4130 Tie-Rod Extensions and Jam Nuts steering kit that comes with the standard LT kit, that is if you can find it A La Carte.

BlazeN8

Blazeland will sell A La Carte Tie-Rod Extensions and Jam Nuts, but like TC the length of the sleeves is specific to the LT Kit. This means TC and Blazeland TRAS (Tie Rod Adusting Sleeves) may not interchangeable. Blazeland TRAS's historically are machined out of 1" Hex bar as are the jam nuts.



These are good for 12" of travel and use the factory inner and outer Tie Rod Ends. The outer TRE is the limiting factor. This design is strong and simple. I sell it A La Carte so it can be used with the DIY weld up kit.




However, many of my DIY customers complain about the price and end up building something on their own. Or people building there own version (knock offs) of the Blazeland LA kit also end up building something on their own. And we are back to the beginning of this thread with people building hack jobs.

I'm not necessarily against DIY guys building something on there own as long as its safe and as long as they understand what goes into building the knock off heim steering upgrade.

For those of you who are adamant about DIY TRAS, here is a sample of what will work when using +3.5" Long Arms and limiting yourself to 12" of wheel travel.

Begin with the factory length TRAS measure it and cut in half.

PhotoD



Obtain the following parts.




In the dimension and lengths shown. The 5/8" rod should be cut to about 4" so that it slip fits through the tube and into the sleeve ends about 1/4"



Bevel the sleeve and tube ends. Drill / hog out the inner sleeve ends to accept the 5/8" rod. Clamp the parts together in a steel channel as shown. Leave gaps between the sleeve and tube so that the three surfaces can be tack welded together.





As you can see there is a nice gap with bevels to give a good bite on the welds.





Final weld the assembly. Pray it doesn't pull apart after a hard days wheeling. Check constantly, especially before hitting the public street. This is your project, and your responsibility.

BlazeN8

Building TRAS out of lengthened factory sleeves is not the best option and to me seems sketchy. As another option for the cheap skates out there, I had my machinist build me a batch of factory style knock offs that use the slotted sleeves with clamps. These are un-painted and do not include clamps. You will need to re-use the clamps from your existing TRAS. Hit me up off line if your interested. PM me for a YT bro deal.

BlazeN8

Tune your set up correctly. Tie Rods ends, adjusting sleeves, centerlink, and Idler / Pitman Arms are not designed as bump stops or limit straps. Here is an example of allowing too much travel.



When the angle of the outer Rod End goes beyond spec. something will give. In this case the limit strap (shown in background) may have prevented this failure; despite the poorly constructed TRAS. The factory Tie Rod End will also fail when pushed too far.



TRE are designed for tension and compression, not to resist bending forces. Try it for yourself, put a TRE in a vice, attach a metal bar and bend it. It will bend or break fairly easily. If it doesn't break try to bend it back, it will snap. This is due to the material not being malleable.

Being greedy for attaining travel numbers destroys Rod Ends, Ball Joints, and CVs. Set your bump stops, steering stops, and limit straps to do the dirty work; that is what they are there for.

BlazeN8

Options and more options. Starting from the bottom moving up.

A) Factory style slotted sleeves with clamps. 7/8" O.D. DOM tube tapped with 17mm x 1.5mm RH and LH threads. Uses factory inner and outer Tie Rod Ends. Designed for +3.5 over stock length control arms, limited to 12" wheel travel.

B) Heavy Wall 1" O.D. DOM sleeves with jam nuts. Tapped with 17mm x 1.5mm RH and LH threads. Uses factory inner and outer Tie Rod Ends. Designed for +3.5 over stock length control arms, limited to 12" wheel travel.

C) Heavy Wall 1" O.D. DOM sleeves with jam nuts. Tapped with 17mm x 1.5mm RH threads and 3/4-16 LH threads. Uses factory inner Tie Rod End (for center link clearance) and outer heim joint with high misalignment spacers for high angle. Designed for +3.5 over stock length control arms, limited to 13" wheel travel. Advantage of using a factory inner tie rod end is no drilling of center link and the built in offset for clearance of center link.

D) 1" hex bar ends with 3/4" O.D. center bar with jam nuts. Tapped with 3/4-16 RH & LH threads. Uses heim joint inner and outer with misalignment spacers for strength and high angle. Because the inner heim has no offset it needs to be spaced further away from the center link, which in turn creates the need for the 3/4" O.D. center bar reduction for frame clearance at droop. Designed for +3.5 over stock length control arms and up to 13" wheel travel.

*Option C & D will require additional attention at outer rod end to steering arm connection when using the factory steering arms. A high misalignment spacer reduction of 1/2" diameter is needed for high angle. This can be either a tapered adapter or a heim extension pin. It is suggested for 1/2" attachments, welding a gusset to the steering arm for double sheer.

**Options C & D will require additional attention at outer rod end to steering arm connection when using a 4" spindle spacer / steering arm. This will require drilling the spindle spacer / steering arm to 5/8" for straight bolt. If drilling is not an option a tapered heim extension pin with 5/8" shank can be used. In either case I've found the 5/8" diameter shank is not as likely to need a double sheer. The triangulated geometry and heavy duty construction of the 4" spindle spacer also strengthens the steering arm and creates a high steer location for the rod ends. This high steer location reduces the outer heim joint angle allowing the 5/8" high misalignment spacer.

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Excellent information Nate! Love your attention to detail.

donomite49

Options are good.

Affordable TC alternative, we're gonna have to talk when I have the funds to upgrade suspension.