jerry507

COR isn't in between the diag connector and the battery. Diag connector B+ is fed from the contact of the EFI main relay. So verify your EFI main relay is working, and then make sure it's getting power and finally that it's getting switched on.

scope103

yes, as jerry507 says. If you're really not getting 12v on the EFI circuit (as opposed to just a wire break right at the diagnostic connector) it will take out everything.

thedrewski86

I pulled the bed off yesterday so I could test the fuel pump once and for all. What I thought was the wiring for the pump was the wiring for the fuel level gauge (feeling around blindly on top of the tank isn't fool proof I guess). It's amazing, I got the bed off and I could tell in 30 seconds my pump wasn't working. Pulled the wiring harness, threw my voltmeter on and turned the key to start: right around 12v. Plugged it back in, turned the key to start and the pump stays quiet. I'll be ordering a new Denso pump and Toyota bracket today.

At least this will turn into a fun project after I replace the pump and get it running. I'm grinding all the old paint and rust off my frame, covering everything in POR-15, doing a ZUK mod, new shocks, free up my e-brake, monstaline my bed, replace my rear diff fluid... I'm sure there's more. I'm just going to make time for it. The past few weeks have been too busy to look at this thing but now that I'm rolling I'm gonna kick it's ass.

PS, thanks for the help guys, I guess this ended well!

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear that you got to the bottom of it, and now I'm sure you have a lot of that schematic memorized now.

bone collector

Glad you finally figured out what was wrong. Take before and after pics of the bedliner and frame work. GOOD LUCK!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Way to persevere, Drewski! ...... SON OF A RUBBER BISCUIT........... the old 'Switcharoo', eh? Best wishes, and GIVE US A VIDEO of it running, K? I'd love to hear it after this episode of 'WTH???' hahaha.

Congratz!

thedrewski86

Uhhhh, well, I got my pump and bracket today. Hooked it all up and I have the same problem. I'm getting plenty of fuel (cold start injector shower confirmed that) so at least my pump is pumping. As stated before I have spark, I have air too, I can hear the door in my air box slap shut after I quit cranking.

I tried testing the voltage at my pump again w/ a better voltmeter. I borrowed a nice Snap-on diagnostic thing from someone awhile back w/ long leads and a multimeter. I hooked it up and set it in the cab (only way I can check by myself) and I'm getting 10.69v while I crank. My battery's charged too. My fuel pump's working though so is this even a problem??

oldblue

are you SURE you have spark? for me, this is always the first thing i check because its the quickest and easiest test. much easier than installing a fuel pump. in this case, it does sound like the shop made a mistake along the way. but don't always jump to that conclusion and blame the shop before you know all the information. i run into this problem quite often. cars break down whenever they want.

thedrewski86

Funny you ask that, I was going to check that again. A buddy came over awhile ago while we were doing some troubleshooting. He pulled a plug wire while I cranked. I assume he got an arch, he said the spark seemed good but of course I didn't see it since I was in the cab. Maybe it was weak or I'm not getting spark at all 4 cylinders.

That will give me something to check later.

oldblue

have someone man up and hold a wire while another cranks. this doesn't accuratly check for the condition or strength of spark, but if it bites you know you have spark eliminating a spark control issue. the best redneck test of them all.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

This is why I keep an old plug laying around.

Teuf

Subscribed for sure. Good luck. I am learning lots.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

3 things I KNOW I've mentioned... Just hoping for a recap from ya, Drew, pertaining to how they all check out..........

1. Dizzy being 180* Off WILL cause a no start.

2. Harness to Ignitor Wire compromised or not connected(NO signal to INJECTORS, not CSI, the other 4, if the Ignitor is faulty or the wiring therein is compromised. Determines Injector pulse rate/if at all)

3. I wanted to ask the more "GURU" status dudes.... Is it possible that the Fuel Cut System is stuck? This would not stop the pump nor the pressure needed... BUT, it WOULD cut ALL voltage to No.10 and No.20 Pins, wouldn't it? (again, IF that unit can even cause this).... I seem to even remember reading of a guy who had his trailer brake all stuffed with snow which caused a BAD short.... Which in turn shut off his injectors(maybe it wasn't on this year/or even the way I'm remembering it... But heck, anything free to check is worth checking, right?)

Have you tested the No.10 and No.20 Pins at the ECU, voltage and resistance, Drew? (or done any of the other several steps in "Testing from ECU for Voltage/Resistance/Troubleshooting"?) I learned a lot from doing that, just in regards to how everything works/where it's wired to/from/what it does.... Of course, I can't remember half of it now, hahaha... But after a brushing up on it, it would come back to me, hehe.

Best wishes, man...sorry you're having such a PITA TIME WITH THIS!

thedrewski86

I have not tested any pins on the ECU. I was unaware of that thread but I'll look it up. I did swap ECUs with my buddy's truck and had the same problem.

I'll pull a plug and test for spark again after work today. I really doubt that's it but I hope it is something simple like that! All my fuses and relays seem good. I tested the ign fuse last night w/ my multimeter and all my relays were checked on another truck and they worked fine. If I don't have spark I'll be happy, at least I would be on the right path.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

I would make sure your spark is strong enough and then check to make sure your distributor isn't 180* off like Chef said. Have you double-checked wiring and everything? Your fuses are good. You can unplug the electrical connection on the #1 fuel injector right there in front. Unplug it and have someone crank the engine while you check the voltage and see what you get.

thedrewski86

Good idea checking the voltage to my injectors.

Dumb question here, but how could my distributor get off by 180 degrees? I had it off and reset my timing some months back, how could this suddenly change?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

It can't, ... Unless your chain snapped like a zip tie, lol. And in that case, it wouldn't matter, cuz the crank would be turning and the cam wouldn't... "KERPLUNK GO THE VALVES", ...

Nope, I was just saying if you installed the dizzy and it's not run since... Buddy of mine could get an occasional 'pup-pupupu'..... but mostly nothing, wouldn't fire over. That's because, after assembling the motor; While we were gone, his buddy had come in the shop and pulled the dizzy to rotate by hand and see spark on each hole, etc...... He dropped it back in 180* off. If you had it running and haven't pulled it since it was... that's not your problem. Just good to dot all the i's and cross all the t's, right?

thedrewski86

Absofruitly! I just put the tc on 1000 miles ago so I'm pretty sure that's ok! We'll see, I just need to get around to it. It's about 100 degrees out and I have quite a few house projects to do too. I could tile my bathroom in the AC or work on my winter driver in 100 degrees... hmm, maybe wait for Sunday when the weather is supposed to break.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I thought you'd run a noid light on this stuff already, no?

Anyway, you can also check voltage to each pair of injectors at the ECU..... ie; No.10 and No.20 Pins. I believe you leave the ECU plugged in on this test... Then put your MMeter pins in E2 and No.10 or No.20(could be E1, can't remember, it's in the FSM)... and turn over and check for voltage to the Injectors. They fire by 'simultaneous injection'.... BUT, I believe it's #1 and #3 are one pair and #2 and #4 are another pair... I say pair, because within the harness, you can see each one of those pairs of injectors has a SINGLE wire that is split into 2(I've heard people on here call them "the Y connectors"). The Injector Resistor on older model 22RE's, like mine, has a part in it... By reducing voltage to 5V or something like that..... I can't remember if the 94, even maybe 90 and up 22RE's have different impedance injectors that don't use an injector resistor...(Sorry, no time to go back and look, but you know what I'm talking about! hahahaha)...

EITHER WAY, I believe you should be able to check to see if voltage is even being SENT to the Injectors, right at the ECU.

thedrewski86

That would be a good way also to see if there is anything wrong w/ the ecu. I'll check that portion of the FSM