muddbogg21

alright thanks man ill give it a shot haha if you ever anywhere near maine give me a shout

iamsuperbleeder

well I don't travel that far up north too much, but I'll keep that in mind, lol

good luck on the search!

YoYoMa

I would still bet my money on the IAV.

dark_fairytales

I'm looking to second that vote

iamsuperbleeder

well guys, I've got good news, I've got bad news, and I've got even worse news...

which would you like to here first?

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Just lay it out man, lay it out.

iamsuperbleeder

lol, alright

allow me to start with the good news and the bad news, then I'll get to the even worse news



the GOOD news is that I found out what's making my truck run the way it's running

the BAD news is that it wasn't the IAV



I got out today and started on getting the IAV off the TB





the screws were a PITA, but I managed to get it off there

I took a look at it, and noticed it looked fine, but I did the ol boil-test, and sure enough, the plunger pushed out a little like it should:





I cleaned it up and bolted is back to the TB, and bolted the TB back to the upper intake.

I already had plans to put my stock intake back on, so I went ahead and took care of that while I had it taken apart too. The main reason for this was an obvious leak at the AFM adapter:







So I reassymbled everything and crossed my fingers... but she still ran the SAME way



SO, I thought I noticed what sounded like a little random valve noise while the engine was running and I had my head under the hood. So I proceeded to pull the valve cover to investigate.

First thing I noticed is that under my valve cover is dirty too

But just doing the ol jiggle test, none of the rockers were loose to the point that they would cause tapping I mean I didn't test them for clearances or anything, but they seems to be right where they needed to be.



And just then, right as I was about to clean around the edge of the head to put the valve cover back on, something cought my eye... the even worse news...


















[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOU54oQBGQM[/YOUTUBE]






yep... I don't think any more explaining is needed...







soooooo, it look's like I'm doing a timing chain replacement... a good one with metal guides...





on a good note, I made my valve cover pretty again while I had it off

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Ah, shoot. Timing chain is a cake walk man! Just don't screw up the head gasket and you'll be a-ok!!!


Oh yeah, nice valve cover it kinda takes away from the firewall.

Junkers88

I'm glad you figured it out but I can't help but wonder why Toyota didn't use metal guides to begin with. I guess they figured 200,000 miles was about as long as they'd last............

Junkers88

Yeah. That's like putting a 200$ pair of earings on a 200lb prom date. The top end looks good but the back is just dirty.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

iamsuperbleeder

yeah, I'm thinking about doing a whole group or things all at once now; the timing chain, oil pump, and front main seal

the front main's got a slow leak and has put a light coating of oil all over everything in the front of my motor and if I'm going to tear in there, I might as well replace the oil pump too, just for assurance, cause I've no idea how old it is. Might put a high volume one in it... why not...

wouldn't hurt to replace the whole timing cover too; cause there's 2 broken off studs in it right noew, lol. Maybe I can work those loose though




and yeah, my entire engine bay is nasty, lol

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

That's what I did when I thought my timing guides broke. I went thru LCEnginnering and got the whole shebang. I did go with the double roller conversion kit though. I got all new everything for the front, just made it easier 'cause everything is new. Hi flow water pump and oil pump, metal guides and all new seals. It's pricy though... I would get everything replaced if it has never been, you're all ready in there. Dont forget to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly to prime it.

iamsuperbleeder

hey the LC's metal guided kit comes with front main, right? that is what I'm seeing there, right?

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...4-69F9E446E60D

the only other gasket I'd have to get is the water pump it looks like

and my water pump's got a lifetime waranty here localy, so I might just exchange it for a new one and get the gasket with it for free

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Yup, the black ring thing at the bottom left is the front seal.

Here's all the gaskets you'll need:


I don't know if LCE sells a non conversion, single chain replacement kit with everything. They might, just might have to call.

iamsuperbleeder

right on, that's what I thought

that link I gave IS the single row replacement kit I'd just have to get the oil pump separate, no big deal

I'm wandering if now would be a good time to upgrade the cam too

anyone have any experience with LC's cams? I'm eye-balling the EFI Pro/Street Performer Camshaft - Offset : http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...A-58B44B30DF84

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Now is the time for cam replacement if your gonna do it!

Yup, that link is right for the single timing chain only kit. I was more thinking of an ENTIRE kit that's like thier dual chain conversion kit that has a new timing cover, oil pump, water pump etc.

iamsuperbleeder

well I really don't feel the need for the dual row chain, for me anyway

maybe if I were to put in one of their stage 2 or 3 cams, and installed stiffer spring... but with stock springs, I don't see the point, IMO

I'll get the new water pump and the gasket for it for free under warantee, cause I'v got connections no really, they'll let me do it anyhow, cause it's a lifetime waranty part a standard flow water pump should do good; get something too much more and it'll probably push water through the radiator too quickly, so it wont have time to cool down good enough, and will probably cause over-heating; a lot of people don't realise that

but their hopped-up oil pump would be a good upgrade for a motor pushing 300k

see I had plans all along for a new motor and everything, but the more I think about it, it might be a waste of money

sure the motor's approaching 300k, but it's really not showing it. it's not burning oil, but it's got a few minor things that need tending to, like this timing chain now, the leaking front seal, I think the rear main may be seeping, but it also needs a clutch soon too so I could do the rear main then as well

so for less than $600-$650, I think this 22re will push 400k, maybe more!


lmao, oh and read the new revised sig

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Floppy timing chain?? Sounds like a personal problem!!!

No, you're right, I would go with the single chain kit and go from there and double check the timing cover to make sure it's in good shape. I think your motor will make it to 400k!!! I had my motor completly rebuilt and overhauled(had no choice really, you know, spun rod bearing and all) and went with that LCE kit. I did notice a difference with the new oil pump and water pump. Never had an overheating problem unless I forgot to turn my fan on!!

iamsuperbleeder

lawl

yeah I have no lower-end noise at all (that I'm aware of). no knocking, and I'v never ran it low on oil (who's to say the PO didn't, but what can ya do about that, ya know), so I'm not worried about any scaring of the main bearings and such.


when I do the timing set though, I'll drop the pan and get a good hold of the connecting rods so that I can make sure there's really no major play in them. do you think main and rod bearings could "carefully" be replaced with the engine still in the truck? I would think the most PITA part about that would be keeping the pistons from sliding out the bottom, lol. but I don't think I've ever heard of that being done before