soft top options
04-11-2006, 12:06 PM
#42
Registered User
I just got the bikini top kit from Downey and I love it.
it was like, $180 something including shipping....
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...t=IMG_0958.jpg
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...t=IMG_0956.jpg
it was like, $180 something including shipping....
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...t=IMG_0958.jpg
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...t=IMG_0956.jpg
04-11-2006, 12:19 PM
#43
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:bounce2: 
This Soft Top needs Alterations !!! 
I REALLY WANT A FULL TIME SOFT TOP. But the Picture you have , That is WAY UGLY.
THE NEW SOFT TOP IN the PICTURE, LOOKS Ok EXCEPT FOR THE Hurse looking Solid Rear sides. And the top should not be a cloth, but a solid (rubber type) surface instead. The cloth Is hard to wash off dirt or mud.
Also it Does not look rugged or tough, it looks Girly ! .
It could be a Killer soft top to fit every body's needs.
If they Would JUST:
1- Include Window on Back Corners ! We need to see back there. Put the Soft top seam where the Roll BAR is ,AT A very slight ANGLE Slant \ ,
With the Rear side Window BEing Slightly Tinted (NOT Solid) Driver needs Sight through there!
2- MAke the whole entire Sides UnZip/button OFF, so you can roll them up and store in a Dust free Bag, SO THEY Dont GET SCRATCHED , HELLO )
3- Make an OPTION of SOFT REAR Window, OR None .
Optional rear soft window ( add on by Zipper or Buttons)
The Bottom of the Rear soft window Should have a Solid steel Rod at bottom so you only have to button one on each end and not 8 buttons along the tailgate. too many drill holes)
OR NO rear For the People that Like to keep using the Clear glass stock window.
4- Use the latest Stronger thicker material that are being used on convertibles today .
I think it would be Very Cool looking if it looked like the new FJ Lancruiser or the H3's ! hummer's windows
IF they are not going to take cutomers requests or recommendations Then that just tells me to go find my OWN shop to make me one !!
I would pay $600-$700 for This
Keep us informed
Good luck I would really like to see this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
toy4crawlin@yahoo.com
=
My TPI4x4 family top for Landcrusiers $75.
This Soft Top needs Alterations !!! I REALLY WANT A FULL TIME SOFT TOP. But the Picture you have , That is WAY UGLY.
THE NEW SOFT TOP IN the PICTURE, LOOKS Ok EXCEPT FOR THE Hurse looking Solid Rear sides. And the top should not be a cloth, but a solid (rubber type) surface instead. The cloth Is hard to wash off dirt or mud.
Also it Does not look rugged or tough, it looks Girly ! .
It could be a Killer soft top to fit every body's needs.
If they Would JUST:
1- Include Window on Back Corners ! We need to see back there. Put the Soft top seam where the Roll BAR is ,AT A very slight ANGLE Slant \ ,
With the Rear side Window BEing Slightly Tinted (NOT Solid) Driver needs Sight through there!
2- MAke the whole entire Sides UnZip/button OFF, so you can roll them up and store in a Dust free Bag, SO THEY Dont GET SCRATCHED , HELLO )
3- Make an OPTION of SOFT REAR Window, OR None .
Optional rear soft window ( add on by Zipper or Buttons)
The Bottom of the Rear soft window Should have a Solid steel Rod at bottom so you only have to button one on each end and not 8 buttons along the tailgate. too many drill holes)
OR NO rear For the People that Like to keep using the Clear glass stock window.
4- Use the latest Stronger thicker material that are being used on convertibles today .
I think it would be Very Cool looking if it looked like the new FJ Lancruiser or the H3's ! hummer's windows
IF they are not going to take cutomers requests or recommendations Then that just tells me to go find my OWN shop to make me one !!
I would pay $600-$700 for This
Keep us informed
Good luck I would really like to see this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
toy4crawlin@yahoo.com
=
My TPI4x4 family top for Landcrusiers $75.
Last edited by toy4crawlin; 04-11-2006 at 12:25 PM.
04-11-2006, 01:13 PM
#44
Contributing Member
I just saw this thread and wanted to give my input -- I had a Kay-Line top on an '86 Bronco for nearly 10 years, and I live in the hot, steamy south. When I sold the Bronco the top was still in fine shape. I've got to say, it was a fine product for me.
04-11-2006, 02:52 PM
#46
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you could do it, but it would slope from the roll bar back. It would be the hardest to pattern since you are using the roll bar as the only support, but if done right it would look SWEET
04-11-2006, 02:56 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by RustBucket
i also agree with Skitrev, $400 is a good mark.
Does anyone know of frameless full-cover tops? Is it possible?
Does anyone know of frameless full-cover tops? Is it possible?
04-11-2006, 03:13 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by tulsa_97SR5
I've wondered if it'd be possible to have inflatable ribs sewn into a soft top to provide structure, while keeping down the complexity. I'm looking forward to having mine ready for a soft top, hopefully one of you will have something nice for sale by then!
You would have to put innertubes in it since stiching holes would leak air. For main supports you need somthing rigid. If you wanted some rain protection you can sew pockets in and use fiberglass flat bar.
04-11-2006, 03:51 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by 4x4nala
you could do it, but it would slope from the roll bar back. It would be the hardest to pattern since you are using the roll bar as the only support, but if done right it would look SWEET
I've been tryin to think of ways to do that. I really like that bikini top that lofreqjeff posted, and I'm trying to think of some way to incorporate that into a temporary type of soft top. I live in the Philly area and spend alot of time at the beach and in the hills during the summer, and we often have afternoon thundershowers, which would make me hesitant to just roll with a bikini top for any far distance. I'm thinking about getting one of the bikini tops, and then getting three fabric panels and fashioning them into sides and a back. Since this top would just be used to cover the back in a less ghetto way than a tarp, it probably would'nt be too complicated to make. Instead of snaps, I'd probably use a long velcro strip on both sides of the bed, and on the underside of the bikini top. They sell them in long thin strips that would be perfect for this, and the velcro is plenty strong, and has a strong adhesive backing on it. The only weak spot might be the underside of the bikini top, but you could just sew it on there and then seam seal it. I dont think the back would be hard to make at all, its just the sides... I dont know if this makes any sense to anyone, but I think I might try it.
04-11-2006, 04:34 PM
#50
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I had to get in the conversation. I have a Specialty top (kayline). $500 isn't great, but not bad. I only use it in the summer. Since it is vinyl, when it is colder than 60, it will NOT stretch. I do take care of it with 302 vinyl protectant and it is in great shape. Living in a cold weather climate (Colorado), it is worth the time to screw in the brackets in the summer and unscrew them for the winter for the hard top. For my purposes, (only summer use) it works great. If you use it in the winter, don't plan on being able to snap the top for the season if you unsnap.
04-11-2006, 04:59 PM
#51
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The way to do it would be to have a piece of C channel that screws to the body where you removed the hard top from. Then like you said you can do 4 pieces. One is the bikini top. You then have zippers on the three sides. Velco wouldnt hold tight enough, and wears out quick. You two mirroerd pieces, though I would pattern them seperatly. They zip to the top and snap to the front and bottom. In the crease of the corner around the back is where the next piece starts, with a zipper connection as well.
The way you get the top tight enough is to have the back be a 8" deep zipered pocket. You then start on the sides and zip to the center. There is an eyebrow strip of fabric on the back where the back piece zips to.
The problem with all of this is you need a bunch of fasteners to make it fwy safe, so you end up doing lots of drilling in your rig.
The way you get the top tight enough is to have the back be a 8" deep zipered pocket. You then start on the sides and zip to the center. There is an eyebrow strip of fabric on the back where the back piece zips to.
The problem with all of this is you need a bunch of fasteners to make it fwy safe, so you end up doing lots of drilling in your rig.
04-11-2006, 05:55 PM
#52
Yes, the frameless top with the slope down the from the rollbar is exactly what I was imagining.
Perhaps a set of brackets that use the stock holes for the hardtop would be the best way to go. They would have the snaps on them and be able to fold or something so that they would not take up much space.
Maybe what we need is minimal framing, rather than none. If we take a metal tube with a bolt thread side out welded to the end, it could screw into one of the original hardtop holes and connect to the upper corner of the rollbar. Two of these would keep the bikini-top section taut. I was also thinking that these frame bars could have threaded holes drilled in them. The part of the canvas that lays over these would have tough metal grommets and two thick, squishy, waterproof washers. Bolts would be inserted through the grommets and threaded into the two frame bars, thereby putting outward tension on the top bikini-top section. The rest would be just as easy as snaps all along the outside and the tailgate via that custom brackets.
I really like the idea of no drilling, minimal frame, waterproof, and something that be totally removed as easily as taking off the hardtop.
Once I get out of school for the summer I'll have to draw this up... don't anyone go and make a patent on this yet...
Perhaps a set of brackets that use the stock holes for the hardtop would be the best way to go. They would have the snaps on them and be able to fold or something so that they would not take up much space.
Maybe what we need is minimal framing, rather than none. If we take a metal tube with a bolt thread side out welded to the end, it could screw into one of the original hardtop holes and connect to the upper corner of the rollbar. Two of these would keep the bikini-top section taut. I was also thinking that these frame bars could have threaded holes drilled in them. The part of the canvas that lays over these would have tough metal grommets and two thick, squishy, waterproof washers. Bolts would be inserted through the grommets and threaded into the two frame bars, thereby putting outward tension on the top bikini-top section. The rest would be just as easy as snaps all along the outside and the tailgate via that custom brackets.
I really like the idea of no drilling, minimal frame, waterproof, and something that be totally removed as easily as taking off the hardtop.
Once I get out of school for the summer I'll have to draw this up... don't anyone go and make a patent on this yet...
03-01-2007, 09:20 AM
#53
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hey guys,
check my "custom" top for a 1st gen... not sure what i've got into it... maybe $300 tops.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...v&x=0&y=gf30x0
thats sunbrella, bought from a boat canvas shop, they did all the sewing for me really reasonably.
no holes drilled, installed two rails in the stock bolt holes to mount all hardware. some "L" angle aluminum from home depot to mount the frame against the cab. support frame is electrical conduit. really cheap and sturdy enough. the next version i'll use a pipe bender instead of an eyeball and a vise. not perfectly symmetrical.
side windows are boat canvas shop custom made. i did all the snap work. i found the side windows werent rigid enough initially and flapped and flew off first time i went over 50mph. so i used some metal door threshold material, 1" x maybe 1/16" thick and ran it around the windows to stiffen it up. worked great. no flutter and stays put. when it rains i snap on the side windows. otherwise leave it open. i've got a rear window but dont really need it because of the bikini exending back over the tonneau. stiffened up the tonneau with some hardwood slats installed same as a normal tonneau crosswise across the bed. sheds water pretty well.
the seal where the stock rollbar goes down through the tonneau is the only big problem. water leaked right through. ended up using roof flashing to make little skirts tight around the bar, supported the sunbrella, and shed water OK. still some leaks, but this design could definitely be a good starting point for a DIY project. can post better pics of my custom hardware..
cheers.
-taurin
check my "custom" top for a 1st gen... not sure what i've got into it... maybe $300 tops.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...v&x=0&y=gf30x0
thats sunbrella, bought from a boat canvas shop, they did all the sewing for me really reasonably.
no holes drilled, installed two rails in the stock bolt holes to mount all hardware. some "L" angle aluminum from home depot to mount the frame against the cab. support frame is electrical conduit. really cheap and sturdy enough. the next version i'll use a pipe bender instead of an eyeball and a vise. not perfectly symmetrical.
side windows are boat canvas shop custom made. i did all the snap work. i found the side windows werent rigid enough initially and flapped and flew off first time i went over 50mph. so i used some metal door threshold material, 1" x maybe 1/16" thick and ran it around the windows to stiffen it up. worked great. no flutter and stays put. when it rains i snap on the side windows. otherwise leave it open. i've got a rear window but dont really need it because of the bikini exending back over the tonneau. stiffened up the tonneau with some hardwood slats installed same as a normal tonneau crosswise across the bed. sheds water pretty well.
the seal where the stock rollbar goes down through the tonneau is the only big problem. water leaked right through. ended up using roof flashing to make little skirts tight around the bar, supported the sunbrella, and shed water OK. still some leaks, but this design could definitely be a good starting point for a DIY project. can post better pics of my custom hardware..
cheers.
-taurin
03-01-2007, 09:22 AM
#54
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<$300 Custom Soft Top
hey guys,
check my "custom" top for a 1st gen... not sure what i've got into it... maybe $300 tops.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...v&x=0&y=gf30x0
thats sunbrella, bought from a boat canvas shop, they did all the sewing for me really reasonably.
no holes drilled, installed two rails in the stock bolt holes to mount all hardware. some "L" angle aluminum from home depot to mount the frame against the cab. support frame is electrical conduit. really cheap and sturdy enough. the next version i'll use a pipe bender instead of an eyeball and a vise. not perfectly symmetrical.
side windows are boat canvas shop custom made. i did all the snap work. i found the side windows werent rigid enough initially and flapped and flew off first time i went over 50mph. so i used some metal door threshold material, 1" x maybe 1/16" thick and ran it around the windows to stiffen it up. worked great. no flutter and stays put. when it rains i snap on the side windows. otherwise leave it open. i've got a rear window but dont really need it because of the bikini exending back over the tonneau. stiffened up the tonneau with some hardwood slats installed same as a normal tonneau crosswise across the bed. sheds water pretty well.
the seal where the stock rollbar goes down through the tonneau is the only big problem. water leaked right through. ended up using roof flashing to make little skirts tight around the bar, supported the sunbrella, and shed water OK. still some leaks, but this design could definitely be a good starting point for a DIY project. can post better pics of my custom hardware..
cheers.
-taurin
check my "custom" top for a 1st gen... not sure what i've got into it... maybe $300 tops.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...v&x=0&y=gf30x0
thats sunbrella, bought from a boat canvas shop, they did all the sewing for me really reasonably.
no holes drilled, installed two rails in the stock bolt holes to mount all hardware. some "L" angle aluminum from home depot to mount the frame against the cab. support frame is electrical conduit. really cheap and sturdy enough. the next version i'll use a pipe bender instead of an eyeball and a vise. not perfectly symmetrical.
side windows are boat canvas shop custom made. i did all the snap work. i found the side windows werent rigid enough initially and flapped and flew off first time i went over 50mph. so i used some metal door threshold material, 1" x maybe 1/16" thick and ran it around the windows to stiffen it up. worked great. no flutter and stays put. when it rains i snap on the side windows. otherwise leave it open. i've got a rear window but dont really need it because of the bikini exending back over the tonneau. stiffened up the tonneau with some hardwood slats installed same as a normal tonneau crosswise across the bed. sheds water pretty well.
the seal where the stock rollbar goes down through the tonneau is the only big problem. water leaked right through. ended up using roof flashing to make little skirts tight around the bar, supported the sunbrella, and shed water OK. still some leaks, but this design could definitely be a good starting point for a DIY project. can post better pics of my custom hardware..
cheers.
-taurin
04-28-2008, 10:38 AM
#58
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I gave up waiting for Ken to build the SunTop and ordered a top from Shawn @ KillerToyTops. I think it has the best of both the CanBack and the SunTop. I'll see how it holds up...
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