Cyberman

Listen and let me know what you think this is. I heard this on another guys truck when he put it back together, but never found out what it was. This is a 3.0 at idle.

Audio Clip

Crawdad

That is either rod knock or some really terrible valve noise.

Cyberman

I should give a little more background. I got this engine from a guy that said it was a dealer pull at 30k mi (cooling issue). Before installing it, I pulled the heads and tried to drop the pan, but it was stuck on tight. That being said, I didn't pull any rod caps. I did check the valve clearance, and there might have been one bucket that was slightly out of spec. I also checked compression before by rigging up the starter without fuel or spark, and it was a little low on one cylinder. Since the engine wasn't warm, I figured I'd iron that out later. I may pull the plug wire on that cylinder and see what happens (enginebldr suggests that to determine knock etc).

So, if I've researched properly, rod knock is caused by a spun bearing correct? If so, can the bearings be replaced without pulling the heads? I know they're on the crank, and aren't related to the heads, just don't want to have to pull it entirely apart.

InternetRoadkill

If the rod bearing 'spun', the crank needs to come out and have the journals resurfaced.

CJM

Sounds to me like ticking valves or rod knock, then again really bad rod knock sounds like someone banging the block with a hammer.

Cyberman

Here's another clip, if it helps any more. I'm pretty sure the idle is slower on the second clip.

Audio Clip 2

pauliep13

Kinda sounds like two knocks at the same time. Possibly rod knock, or maybe a bent/loose wrist pin. The higher pitch part sounds like really bad valve noise. Is he sure the oil pump was checked and installed properly?

pauliep13

Actually, with noise like that, it's time to tear it down again... nothing good/easy can come of noise like that. Just my .02

Cyberman

This combined with fuel leaking in a few places has me a bit miffed (the fumes are getting to me). After several days of work, it looks like I'm going to take a break for a while. I can only take a beating for so long.

qdude79

Man, after reading your resto thread, I can see why you'd be "miffed." I think you've got the right idea by walking away from it for a bit. Get an expendable wrench, find a brick wall, and put some dents in it! Return to your garage, put your palms together and bow your head. You must re-focus glasshoppa!!!

91Toyota

How much did you pay for that engine? Did it come with a warranty or anything like that?

That really sucks...I don't think anything can be good from that noise. Unless you forgot to hook up the exhaust line from the manifold to the intake...it can be quite noisy (I've done it before and I thought I had REALLY loud valve's)

Anyway, try just cranking it over with out spark...if it is a knock you should be able to hear it. I had (my family) an old Mazda pickup and it had a pretty bad knock...when we turned it over we could easily hear it.

Good luck!

Crawdad

Yeah, if you spun a bearing you're going to pretty much have to take the engine apart and have the bearing journals on the crank resurfaced (if it's still machinable). I've never seen a spun bearing not do crank damage.

That's a bad sound, you might as well start pulling the oil pan to see what you can see.

Cyberman

I got the engine off Craig's List for $150. Considering the shape the rest of the motor was in, it was a steal. So ya, no warranty.

when you say exhaust line from manifold to intake, do you mean the EGR valve? If so, that's in place.

Is this true? Reason I ask is that I originally checked the compression without fuel or spark, and didn't notice the knock. Also, in audio clip #2, you can clearly hear that the knock stops on every misfire.

I found about half a dozen videos on YouTube with a spun bearing. They all appear to sound like mine does.

I also saw a quick fix (relatively speaking) of dropping the diff and the oil pan, and replacing the rod bearings on the vehicle. Of course, not sure I can do it on this truck, or that it's just the rod bearings.

just a 22re

ok you got the motor for 150??? what was wrong with the old one and remember full rebuilds are cheap if you do the work!!!!

well ok the 22res are alot cheaper then this thats for sure!!!
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

just a 22re

this might be a lil better for ya!!!!

http://www.autozone.com/N,15100857//...eResultSet.htm

i rebuilt my engine with a kit just like this with a few added parts

Luvmeye22re

If I was you I'd pull that thing out and consider it a core. The same thing just happened to me. A member of TTORA sold me a 22re saying it just needed a timing cover/chain but when it arrived I realized it needed rings, HG, and so much more. I just got myself a rebuilt engine because I was tired of dicking with it. www.toyotacarpart.com They also have rebuild kits and use the same parts as engnbldr.com Damn and I just realized I didn't celebrate my 420th post

Team420

HAHA...thanks...after reading that...so did I. lol

Cyberman

I don't think I'll need that much of a kit.

I did consider that, for a minute. However, I'm not done punishing myself yet. I think it will be fine with new bearings at the very least, maybe some other stuff. I guess you gotta be here.

So, your core was worth $300. My 3VZE core is worth $350. I paid $150 for the long block I have now. So, the way I see it, I've got roughly another $200 to get it runnable, otherwise I'll lose money on a core deposit. I had no rebuildable core before I got this, so I would have spent this money either way.

Targetnut

The noise sounds terminal.

I'm guessing that the cylinder that has low compression is #6 (driverside rear)

Cylinder #6 is the place the 3VZ-Es blow head gaskets, and if they suck in enough coolant they will hydrolock and bend or break the connecting rod.

Anyhow, there's no since playing around you'll either need to tear it down and go through it properly, or replace it.

Sad Story....

Sorry to here it.

Cyberman

The low compression was not #6, it was #4. The engine did not have a blown HG. The noise does sound terminal, and would be if I actually tried to drive it that way. I'll figure it out. It's not a sad story, it's my own fault for not checking out the bottom end first. It'll be okay, it's not my DD. It was given to me with 2 blown cylinders with a hole inside the block. It hasn't run up until now, so this is an improvement.