ring and pinion gears

toyotateen88 · 05-11-2006, 07:28 AM

what gears would be good for my rig with 33 inch tires. it has 31 inch tires now and its 5 speed v6.

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JackKnife · 05-11-2006, 08:18 AM

Depends on what you mean by good. 4.56s keep the RPMs down. But, if you want enough power to climb hills, I would go with 4.88s.

Bobakazi · 05-11-2006, 08:27 AM

4.88 gears would put you back close to a stock ratio.

toyotateen88 · 05-11-2006, 08:32 AM

i would like to be adle to run on interstate ever now and then

Bobakazi · 05-11-2006, 08:50 AM

Here is a good chart where you will be able to see roughly what your rpm's will be at 65 miles per hour with any given size of tires and gears. Notice it says these are accurate for a 1:1 ratio, meaning 4th gear in your manual. When you are in 5th, your rpm's will be lower, more like the green area. You will be able to drive just fine at interstate speeds. Some might say these charts are not all that accurate because of many variables, but they are a great place to start. Hope this helps.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm

tc · 05-11-2006, 04:19 PM

I just went through this on my 4Runner. I'm assuming you have 4.56 now, and it will be OK with 33's. Some ways, better than stock really, as I found first was about worthless with the 31's - by the time you got moving, you were tached out. You will lose some "pep" on the highway though. My speedometer was within 1MPH of the GPS with this setup.

I went to 4.88, and it is better than the 4.56/31 or 4.56/33 combo - kinda the best of both worlds - a usable first gear and pep on the highway.

If you're only going to be on the interstate every now and then, you could look at 5.29's even, which would be really great off road!

4x4Lamm · 05-11-2006, 05:07 PM

I agree with 4.88s. I will be looking for 5.29s myself, but I have an auto.

Having driven a 3.0, 5spd, 4.56, 33" tired 4Runner for 3 years, having 4.88s would have kicked butt.

Lamm

toyotateen88 · 05-12-2006, 05:33 AM

so will 4.88 keep me able to take the interstate ever now and then. what size lift will i need

tc · 05-12-2006, 12:09 PM

Depends on width.
33x10.50, no lift
33x12.50 ~4" lift (most people here do balljoint spacers + body lift)

Search for more info

crackerjack · 05-12-2006, 05:07 PM

what a wealth of information got 4:88 in passenger floor board waiting for mech to install... what abot the truetrac for a medium wheeler? 200$ 2 put in

tc · 05-12-2006, 05:30 PM

TruTrac is MUCH better than open, but still worthless if a tire comes off the ground. Much less stress on your steering/CV's than a full locker when in the front though.

crackerjack · 05-12-2006, 10:54 PM

you got a mud hole with a bottom somewhere down in the muke. Does a trutrac apply some amount of traction to both wheels as you sink and clinch. Or does it wait til you're stuck then do some magic mechanical thing so both wheels turn after the fact I called Detroit in Cleveland and they said it acted like a limited slip ie some to both sorry to be so anal I just want to get it right first time... I could save the trutrc for front and order a detroit for rear? PS I got this mud hole that every time I do something to improve I go deeper in then I got a mile walk to get my Dads tracter haha

tc · 05-13-2006, 08:47 AM

The TruTrac applies a multiple (1.5x to 3x depending on mfg/model) of the torque the tire with the LEAST traction can handle. SO, if one tire is in the air, and can handle 0 torque, neither wheel gets you moving because 3x0=0. There is a way around this by using the brakes to make sure the one wheel has at least some torque on it.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml

In some instances, the TruTrac is better because it can apply more torque to the wheel with traction than a true locker. The downside is they are a little unpredictable.

kyle_22r · 05-13-2006, 11:28 AM

i think "keeping the revs down" is kind of a joke on a toyota. these engines are designed to run all day at 3-4k.

Bobakazi · 05-14-2006, 12:16 PM

I love my TrueTrac in the rear. I have had a rear tire up in the air several times, and been in deep mud. I can tell you it operates like an open diff until you need it, then it engages almost like a locker. When I have a tire up in the air, it stops getting power and the one on the ground gets it all. I can go more places in 2wd with the TrueTrac in the rear than my last truck with open diffs in 4wd. Not sure what "unpredictable" means, I never even notice it is there. They transfer power to the tire with the most resistance, not to the tire with the least (like open). If I give it a lot of gas, almost immediately both tires will peel out. On pavement, I leave two stripes.

05-11-2006, 08:18 AM	#2 (permalink)
JackKnife Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 148	Depends on what you mean by good. 4.56s keep the RPMs down. But, if you want enough power to climb hills, I would go with 4.88s. __________________ 1989 4Runner - 3.0 V6 5-speed, CS144 190 amp alternator, 285/75-16 cheap Dakota tires, Marlin Crawler dual transfercase w/4.7 gears in rear, rear ARB locker, ball joint spacers, hybrid stock/1 ton rear springs, 2" body/drivetrain lift, Budbuilt crossmember and skidplate, Surco roof rack

05-11-2006, 08:27 AM	#3 (permalink)
Bobakazi Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 379	4.88 gears would put you back close to a stock ratio. __________________ '90 Extra cab V6 4x4 PU 5.29 gears. Detroit locker front, Detroit Truetrac rear. 35" BFG mudders. Trailmaster 4" susp, 3" body lifts. Add-a-leaf. K+N intake, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and a cat I got off an Evo VIII.

05-11-2006, 08:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
Bobakazi Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 379	Here is a good chart where you will be able to see roughly what your rpm's will be at 65 miles per hour with any given size of tires and gears. Notice it says these are accurate for a 1:1 ratio, meaning 4th gear in your manual. When you are in 5th, your rpm's will be lower, more like the green area. You will be able to drive just fine at interstate speeds. Some might say these charts are not all that accurate because of many variables, but they are a great place to start. Hope this helps. http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm __________________ '90 Extra cab V6 4x4 PU 5.29 gears. Detroit locker front, Detroit Truetrac rear. 35" BFG mudders. Trailmaster 4" susp, 3" body lifts. Add-a-leaf. K+N intake, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and a cat I got off an Evo VIII.

05-11-2006, 04:19 PM	#6 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,368	I just went through this on my 4Runner. I'm assuming you have 4.56 now, and it will be OK with 33's. Some ways, better than stock really, as I found first was about worthless with the 31's - by the time you got moving, you were tached out. You will lose some "pep" on the highway though. My speedometer was within 1MPH of the GPS with this setup. I went to 4.88, and it is better than the 4.56/31 or 4.56/33 combo - kinda the best of both worlds - a usable first gear and pep on the highway. If you're only going to be on the interstate every now and then, you could look at 5.29's even, which would be really great off road! __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

05-11-2006, 05:07 PM	#7 (permalink)
4x4Lamm Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Canton, Ohio Posts: 2,573	I agree with 4.88s. I will be looking for 5.29s myself, but I have an auto. Having driven a 3.0, 5spd, 4.56, 33" tired 4Runner for 3 years, having 4.88s would have kicked butt. Lamm __________________ -1992 4Runner SR5, Destroyed by fire. Lots of mods. I will miss it. -1995 4Runner SR5 Limited, Also known as the money pit. Becoming a trail rig now. -2004 Tacoma SR5 TRD, My new daily driver. I love this truck!

05-11-2006, 08:32 AM	#4 (permalink)
toyotateen88 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: tennesse Posts: 6	i would like to be adle to run on interstate ever now and then

05-12-2006, 05:33 AM	#8 (permalink)
toyotateen88 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: tennesse Posts: 6	so will 4.88 keep me able to take the interstate ever now and then. what size lift will i need

05-12-2006, 12:09 PM	#9 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,368	Depends on width. 33x10.50, no lift 33x12.50 ~4" lift (most people here do balljoint spacers + body lift) Search for more info __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

05-12-2006, 05:07 PM	#10 (permalink)
crackerjack Contributing Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: cookeville tn. Posts: 616	what a wealth of information got 4:88 in passenger floor board waiting for mech to install... what abot the truetrac for a medium wheeler? 200$ 2 put in

05-12-2006, 05:30 PM	#11 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,368	TruTrac is MUCH better than open, but still worthless if a tire comes off the ground. Much less stress on your steering/CV's than a full locker when in the front though. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

05-12-2006, 10:54 PM	#12 (permalink)
crackerjack Contributing Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: cookeville tn. Posts: 616	you got a mud hole with a bottom somewhere down in the muke. Does a trutrac apply some amount of traction to both wheels as you sink and clinch. Or does it wait til you're stuck then do some magic mechanical thing so both wheels turn after the fact I called Detroit in Cleveland and they said it acted like a limited slip ie some to both sorry to be so anal I just want to get it right first time... I could save the trutrc for front and order a detroit for rear? PS I got this mud hole that every time I do something to improve I go deeper in then I got a mile walk to get my Dads tracter haha

05-13-2006, 08:47 AM	#13 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,368	The TruTrac applies a multiple (1.5x to 3x depending on mfg/model) of the torque the tire with the LEAST traction can handle. SO, if one tire is in the air, and can handle 0 torque, neither wheel gets you moving because 3x0=0. There is a way around this by using the brakes to make sure the one wheel has at least some torque on it. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml In some instances, the TruTrac is better because it can apply more torque to the wheel with traction than a true locker. The downside is they are a little unpredictable. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

05-13-2006, 11:28 AM	#14 (permalink)
kyle_22r Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Lacey, WA Posts: 3,992	i think "keeping the revs down" is kind of a joke on a toyota. these engines are designed to run all day at 3-4k. __________________ 1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts past toys: 1984 4x2 1979 4x4 1991 4x4

05-14-2006, 12:16 PM	#15 (permalink)
Bobakazi Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 379	I love my TrueTrac in the rear. I have had a rear tire up in the air several times, and been in deep mud. I can tell you it operates like an open diff until you need it, then it engages almost like a locker. When I have a tire up in the air, it stops getting power and the one on the ground gets it all. I can go more places in 2wd with the TrueTrac in the rear than my last truck with open diffs in 4wd. Not sure what "unpredictable" means, I never even notice it is there. They transfer power to the tire with the most resistance, not to the tire with the least (like open). If I give it a lot of gas, almost immediately both tires will peel out. On pavement, I leave two stripes. __________________ '90 Extra cab V6 4x4 PU 5.29 gears. Detroit locker front, Detroit Truetrac rear. 35" BFG mudders. Trailmaster 4" susp, 3" body lifts. Add-a-leaf. K+N intake, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and a cat I got off an Evo VIII.

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