James Cuevas

New to forums I have an 86 4Runner 22RE. No idea how old this motor is but my headgasket is gone. Have tons of crap in the coolant and oil pan is milky. There was little to no smoke coming out of the exhaust but can only assume this or timing chain cover among other things. I found a 22RE motor still hooked up to the truck so I can start it to see how it runs for $400 so I decided to swap motors first and then dig into the current one I have to see if its salvageable.
I'm a full-time college student and NEED THIS done this weekend so I can go to my hospital clinical *nursing student*

So I searched the forums and online found a few things and sure I'll have questions throughout the day.

1) I have most of the wiring unhooked from the engine bay, leaving the harness connected to the motor and unplugged from ECU and pulled it through the firewall.
2) Radiator drained and removed, it is missing a lot of its fins but the engine I'm getting comes with EVERYTHING i need so no worries
3) Going to drain oil next
4) will support tranny and unhook tranny bolts (believe I counted around 14).
5) Going to rent and engine hoist tomorrow so I can loosen motor mounts and hopefully pull?
6) Drop in goes in reverse LOL

My question right now though is how to remove/unhook the a/c lines. I was unhooking wires from the engine bay to the motor, I came across the a/c lines and scratched my head. They are still pressurized but it does not blow cold air at all, luke warm at best. The heater works decent so I would like to keep that. I loosened it a bit and heard a hissing so figured it still has stuff in it. I unfortunately cannot find a manual in my area right now so I'm trying to wing this for preparations for tomorrow when I get the motor.

Any other suggestions would be great. The guy is selling me the whole motor with everything attached and needed for the swap. I'll be using my own distributor, wires, plugs since they are new-ish. Was also considering on doing the waterpump beforehand since it looks like its only a few bolts and a quick swap (still need to google). Replace any crappy hoses and hope for the best.

Thanks guys I'll be checking VERY frequently for responses.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

don't disconnect the a/c lines. instead, remove the compressor from the block, and set it against the inner fender with the lines still attached. you'll have to loosen the belt at the idler pulley, too.

it can be completed in a day, but it's a long day. especially if you've never pulled a motor before. having an extra pair of hands is usefull.

unless you really plan to reswap motors again soon, i'd give strong consideration to putting in a new clutch and flywheel.

James Cuevas

Good call on that! I'll have to poke around a bit more to find the bolts for it because the truck is NASTY! The truck seems to grab pretty well when driving and haven't had much issue with it. While the truck seemed underpowered when it ran the RPM and MPH were moving together and the RPM was not ramping up without increase in MPH. Ideally, I would like to dump this new motor in and then try to salvage my old motor for a fresh rebuild (for learning and hopefully use purposes) and reswap in the future. Whats the best way to tell if the a new clutch and flywheel is in need?

Also I was peaking under the truck and looks like removing the 3 bolts from the exhaust manifold would be the easiest way so I don't have to remove the manifold itself (PB Blaster and some time to soak the bolts?)
It also seems that there are a few plugs that run under the motor (one being a ground wire). Other than that, it seems like the motor is almost ready to be pulled out!

Here is the updated picture I just took. As far as I can tell minus the A/C lines, a few plugs under the truck, its disconnected from the engine bay. I believe all I have left are the tranny and exhaust bolts and a lift?

James Cuevas

Lastly, the larger, what look like A/C lines, on the driver side, are those for the heater? Can those be undone and removed or is there a nice trick on that as well?

Taking a short break and going to the gym and homework, may even be done for the night. Don't want to burn on trying to get this done and screw myself on my stuff for school. Two weeks in and already exams *sigh*. At least its semi-warm enough to ride a motorcycle for now lol

ewong

[QUOTE=James Cuevas;52333614 Don't want to burn on trying to get this done and screw myself on my stuff for school. l[/QUOTE]

Good Advice!

I've learned (the hard way) not to keep pushing on with a large car repair project...

James Cuevas

Okay so a couple of questions here.

There is a hose on passenger side coming from the block (as best as I can tell) and goes down and under the truck....(brake line?). Where do I disconnect this guy? Here are a few pictures of it below.



Also, any tips for unbolting the tranny from the engine? Once thats all done I assume I hook up the hoist and give a gentle lift to support and undo motor mounts?

osv

there is a fuel filter underneath the intake, look in above the front tire, see if that's it.

i would assume that you'll need to support the trans/bell housing before pulling the engine, be careful about using a hydraulic jack because they can bleed out over time, when under pressure.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

most engine hoists utilize a hydraulic jack.....

gsp4life

Yup. Had my tranny supported by a jack only for a whole week till it occurred to use a jack stand instead. It was fine.

Bell housing bolt tip: the top two are a huge PIA cause it's about impossible to get a ratchet back there. You can either remove the engine mounts and just lower the engine way down or put a box end wrench on the bolts and whack with a BFH, which is what I did and works great.

Also, is there a bracket and exhaust clamp on the bellhousing? There should be, so make or find one if it's gone. Toyota still stocks them.

Good luck, just got my first rebuild up and running. It feels pretty good. Btw, I threw on a new aisin clutch and it's night and day to the old one, which I considered reusing at only 40,000mi old. Glad I didn't!

gsp4life

Don't be surprised if they don't wanna separate. Shaking and wrestling the crap out of your engine is all part of the fun! I thought I was gonna snap the input shaft or something...

osv

i don't see the point of that sentence... what i do is use one of these to support the weight of the trans: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

osv

nope... i put a 20 ton hydraulic bottle jack under a bell housing one time and the jack dropped all the way down overnight.

why do cars have mechanical parking brakes, instead of using hydraulic line locks?

gsp4life

My old neglected harbor freight floor jack held it outside for a week, thunderstorms 100 degrees and all. I probably got lucky, but I think floor jacks are a little more reliable than bottle jacks. Not saying you SHOULD do it, just that I did and it was fine. I replaced it with a stand cause I realized I was taking an unnecessary risk, so yeah, I agree with you.

osv

floor jacks seem to take a lot of abuse, i've never had one fail... that bottle jack that bled out on me, tho, was hardly used, it had been sitting for maybe three years.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

no need for a jack at all to support the BH & transmission. use a ratchet strap to the frame rails. no drooping.

osv

a strap should definitely work here, and it's cheap, that's a good idea... one reason i wanted the bar is to hold up the rear of the engine, without droop(fixed angle), so that i could pull the dual case trans assembly later on... i strapped the heavy pig trans combo to a trans jack, skidplate and all, with the angle on the jack plate locked, because when neither angle changes, the trans will slide right in... i didn't figure out the matched angles aspect of it right away, lol, it took a few hours of flailing around before i decided to think about what i was doing.

if the angles don't match for some reason, you can easily adjust the angle on the bar end.

i also used the bar on a couple of unibody cars that don't have frames, it's been very handy.