Rear Disc Brakes -opinions
#22
Contributing Member
I found some more sites that detailed the braking system and that extra line to the front is apparently a return line, not an extra pressure line. I guess it sends excess pressure from the LSPV to the front, all part of the 'design' apparently. I can understand how that works now since the master cylinder sends applys a set amount of pressure to each line regardless of where they end up at. the LSPV just regulates the the pressure on the rear... so the fluid isnt held back, its just limited and whats left is sent to where it can be used (or released)... Since the fluid doesnt compress it has to have somewhere to go.
Good info to know though. Sounds like you are on the right track now.
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yet more questions
So .... Im looking at 1990 Chevy K1500 pickups and I've hit another road block.. Ok so I have no way to tell the difference between the two rotors offered for this truck... Only price difference. They have a rotor for a single cab and an extended cab (WTF?) ...
single cab is cheaper.
any input?
So .... Im looking at 1990 Chevy K1500 pickups and I've hit another road block.. Ok so I have no way to tell the difference between the two rotors offered for this truck... Only price difference. They have a rotor for a single cab and an extended cab (WTF?) ...
single cab is cheaper.
any input?
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
eh answered my own question
Found this over at pirate:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281059
Front Single cab rotors. 89-90 chevy 1500
Found this over at pirate:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281059
Front Single cab rotors. 89-90 chevy 1500
#25
Contributing Member
You've probably got this figured out already, but you will also need to get the ID of the Chevy rotors turned to a slightly larger diameter. I have a note regarding this on my YT thread and Sky's site mentions a few things about it as well.
Measure your rear axle "cap" and then take the rotors to a machine shop, or buy pre-modded ones from Sky.
Measure your rear axle "cap" and then take the rotors to a machine shop, or buy pre-modded ones from Sky.
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
You've probably got this figured out already, but you will also need to get the ID of the Chevy rotors turned to a slightly larger diameter. I have a note regarding this on my YT thread and Sky's site mentions a few things about it as well.
Measure your rear axle "cap" and then take the rotors to a machine shop, or buy pre-modded ones from Sky.
Measure your rear axle "cap" and then take the rotors to a machine shop, or buy pre-modded ones from Sky.
not sure how much it would cost to have them ground out either, probably to much.
Last edited by drew303; 07-11-2007 at 08:54 PM.
#28
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How much of the hardware is SAE? Make sure you put metric AND English tools in your trail kit.
I would have gone with the All-pro kit even though it is expensive, after monkeying with a truck that had Metric and English bolts, I developed an OCD that makes me dislike grafting American components to a Japanese Vehicle.
At the end of the day, you will probably have the same performance, the choice ends up being pay a ton of cash for all Toyota parts, or pay a reasonable amount and carry a few extra wrenches.
I would have gone with the All-pro kit even though it is expensive, after monkeying with a truck that had Metric and English bolts, I developed an OCD that makes me dislike grafting American components to a Japanese Vehicle.
At the end of the day, you will probably have the same performance, the choice ends up being pay a ton of cash for all Toyota parts, or pay a reasonable amount and carry a few extra wrenches.
#29
Contributing Member
I don't like mixing either. Trying to think what parts are actually SAE when I was done.
I know the allen bolt that mounts the caliper to the bracket is SAE, and the SpeedBleeders are SAE, but pretty sure the rest is metric, at least the way mine turned out.
So, not too bad. One allen wrench, one brake bleed wrench.
It's a valid point though. All metric would definitely be preferred.
I know the allen bolt that mounts the caliper to the bracket is SAE, and the SpeedBleeders are SAE, but pretty sure the rest is metric, at least the way mine turned out.
So, not too bad. One allen wrench, one brake bleed wrench.
It's a valid point though. All metric would definitely be preferred.
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Tell me about it. I carry a socket set that is half metric half SAE for my toolbox. the BIG kit in the garage is all metric tho.. most of my friends have american trucks
Every car we've ever owned is foreign and metric. SAE.. im sorry to say is just retarded.
The only SAE on my rig actually has to do with the brakes, heh.
question. I got my speedbleeders today from summit and the many LSPV n stuff... Ok I guess I didnt understand what a speed bleeder is... or .. I already have these on all 4 sides of my truck. What makes these different? Did I read they have a check valve that doesnt allow air back in? Is that what makes them different from whats already on my brake pistons and calipers now (u stick a hose on stick it in fluid... unscrew... push pedal down...screw in the bleeder.. etc...).... am i close?
Every car we've ever owned is foreign and metric. SAE.. im sorry to say is just retarded.
The only SAE on my rig actually has to do with the brakes, heh.
question. I got my speedbleeders today from summit and the many LSPV n stuff... Ok I guess I didnt understand what a speed bleeder is... or .. I already have these on all 4 sides of my truck. What makes these different? Did I read they have a check valve that doesnt allow air back in? Is that what makes them different from whats already on my brake pistons and calipers now (u stick a hose on stick it in fluid... unscrew... push pedal down...screw in the bleeder.. etc...).... am i close?
Last edited by drew303; 07-12-2007 at 10:56 PM.
#31
Contributing Member
I know... when I got the SpeedBleeders in my hand I thought, "Now what's the big deal with these things???"
There is a check valve in them though. So, once you crack the line... you just leave it cracked. As you pump the brakes, fluid and air escapes, but never comes back in. You never re-tighten the SpeedBleeder until you are all done.
Might be hard to explain, but I think after you bleed the first caliper you will see how incredibly handy they are.
There is a check valve in them though. So, once you crack the line... you just leave it cracked. As you pump the brakes, fluid and air escapes, but never comes back in. You never re-tighten the SpeedBleeder until you are all done.
Might be hard to explain, but I think after you bleed the first caliper you will see how incredibly handy they are.
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