kpaxfaq

yeah people think way too much into these things....if it aint broke don't fix it

T4R 4ME

Hmmmm, now I'm thinking about this too much. After getting all my seals and gaskets replaced a couple of years ago and got the 4R to quit puking oil, a good mechanic friend of mine recommended going to a 20w-50. His reasoning was that as an engine ages and develops more leaks as is common, the thicker oil will not leak as much.
He has a 4R and I trust his advise, but now its got me thinking. I started reading that post above and got through 103, but thats too much reading (and thinking) for one sitting. But after what I've read so far, I think I might go back to 10w30 with my next oil change.
BTW thanks for posting that info. Definitely a lot of reading and repetitive as well, but good info.

Guardian_Saint

I might be wrong but when something happen then we will talk.

rdharper

While Fred did not make his statement in the most eloquent fashion... he is correct.

The problem is... it can take years for the problems to show up. Sort of like drug-use... you don't know the cost until you are well down the road... so-to-speak.

Not being patronizing here. The article referenced a few posts back is worth your consideration.

Firebb15

I've been running 10w-30 all summer, and i've been using 1 qt/1,700 miles on my 3.0 with 200K. My last oil change i switched it up to 10w-40 and now im at 2,000 miles and i've only used 1/2 a qt. But i'll go back to 5 or 10w-30 for the winter here in michigan. So the only difference i saw was oil consumption

FredTJ

Which, obviously to most, doesn't count for the difference that you couldn't see....

Trying to "fix" a problem with higher weight oil is not the way to do things, unless you simple don't care about the engine/vehicle




Fred

thook

I've been using (20w-50 originally) 15w-50 M1 in my 22re for several years. Now, the rings are leaking....blow by. Related to the weight factor...I don't know. I starting running that weight because the tech at the Toy dealer said that was what's was recommended at the time of production for these motors. And now that all my pretty sythentic fluids are contaminated, I'm going to use the genuine article....O'Reilly brand motor oil and change it more often. In THIS case, however, ...and until I can redo the rings, etc....what weight would be recommended. Bear in mind, it is going on winter here. Also, how often would it be recommended to change it? I was thinking 2500 miles.

MudHippy

I've been running 10W-40 castrol synthetic with no trouble in my 88 3VZE for several years know. 218,000 miles and burns exactly a 1/2 quart every 4,000 miles, even with frequent bursts of WOT. I wasn't even aware of what the owners manual recommends, since it wasn't with the vehicle by the time I got it.

Notice that it don't say ANYTHING about what WEIGHT engine oil on the list below. Mentions specific weights for everything else, how odd.<sarcasm>

camo31_10.50

im running 10w30 in my 1st gen 4x4 p/u....it leaks like a some beach...always lots of spray when i park it...and it leaks throughout the night...(usually just about 20 or so drops)...i heard of a guy using 20w50 in his 1st gen....and it eliminated the leak.....no more spray or drops...ever...so i was wondering if i should try stepping up to 20w50..

thook

I do believe that was the recommended weight anyway. But, if it's a simple fix, why not just fix the leak?

camo31_10.50

well its both front and rear mains...not exactly easy...lol...and thanks for the info on the recomended weight...(no manual for the truck)

thook

Ooooo....nope...not an easy one. Good luck. Don't blow a seal. It's a mess. I've done it.

Prophet_MX

I've been running the same in my Yota. I like it and for the price it kicks ass!

Firebb15

I agree with you. But i wouldn't say i'm fixing a problem by switching from 10-30 to 10-40 for 3,000 miles simply because i got a good deal on a case of 10-40. Now if i ran pure motor honey in my engine, (which i personally saw someone do to an old 4.0 jeep) that would be a different story. He really didn't care about his truck. I love my truck and take very good care of it so it will last me a while yet. I don't consider using 1-2 qts between changes a problem. It's a 13 year old, 200K mile truck that runs over 3,000 rpm on the highway. It doesn't leak/smoke/knock either. I didn't try to "fix" anything. I was simply giving my opinion to Nix4x4 that I didn't notice any benefits by switching from 30-40 weight, besides slightly less oil consumption. If this truck had lower miles on it when i bought it, i would have run Ams Oil.

T4R 4ME

So I finally got a chance to read the whole post from ferrarichat that Ganoid posted towards the top of this post. Good information there, although very repetitive. Most of that seems like common sense, some of it goes against conventional wisdom. But if that was always correct, we'd all be running 0-20 or 5w-30 for best performance.
I'm not going to attempt to prove it right or wrong on here because I honestly don't know. But, does anyone on here know of other sources to attempt to verify some of that info? Theres good info as well at bobistheoilguy, but their forums are all over the place with different info and thoughts.

Thanks!