Pulls to the left, steering wheel crooked, vibration
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Pulls to the left, steering wheel crooked, vibration
Alright, I've fixed all of the little nagging issues on my truck now that it's going to be my daily driver. I'm hoping you guys can help me figure out one relatively large remaining issue with my truck.
Since I got it, my truck will drift to the left, the steering wheel is about 5 degrees off counter-clockwise (meaning it is turned to the left about 5 degrees from the 12 o'clock position when the truck is traveling straight), and I get vibration at high speed on the highway (above 50mph) that I can feel on the steering wheel and in the cab.
I'm thinking it just needs an alignment, maybe the tires need to be rotated, or something. But before I go spend $100 at a tire store, I wanted to double check with you guys. Thanks for your help.
Since I got it, my truck will drift to the left, the steering wheel is about 5 degrees off counter-clockwise (meaning it is turned to the left about 5 degrees from the 12 o'clock position when the truck is traveling straight), and I get vibration at high speed on the highway (above 50mph) that I can feel on the steering wheel and in the cab.
I'm thinking it just needs an alignment, maybe the tires need to be rotated, or something. But before I go spend $100 at a tire store, I wanted to double check with you guys. Thanks for your help.
#4
Noob question: How do you check the tie rods for wear?
I'm having the same problem as the OP. Not sure if it's related, but I also get some rapid side to side feedback in the steering when I apply the brakes above 40mph.
I'm having the same problem as the OP. Not sure if it's related, but I also get some rapid side to side feedback in the steering when I apply the brakes above 40mph.
#6
Fairly new tires came with the truck when I bought it a little while back, so hard to say. Looks to be pretty even wear though. I don't notice any steering wobble except under breaking at medium to high speeds.
Re-read the OP, and my problem is actually slightly different. My steering wheel always returns to center, but I have a consistent rightward drift that I have to correct by turning the wheel about 5deg to the left.
Re-read the OP, and my problem is actually slightly different. My steering wheel always returns to center, but I have a consistent rightward drift that I have to correct by turning the wheel about 5deg to the left.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the drift--an alignment or tire pull
the shake--tire condition, tire balance, worn steering linkage, bent wheel, loose parts.
shaking on braking--machine or replace warped rotors but I've seen a bad outer tie rod do it.
Have you ever rotated your tires. If you haven't and they are in good shape do that then drive it and compare your results with the original set up. If the shake is in a tire/wheel that was up front you won't feel it as much in the rear. Same with a tire pull.
the shake--tire condition, tire balance, worn steering linkage, bent wheel, loose parts.
shaking on braking--machine or replace warped rotors but I've seen a bad outer tie rod do it.
Have you ever rotated your tires. If you haven't and they are in good shape do that then drive it and compare your results with the original set up. If the shake is in a tire/wheel that was up front you won't feel it as much in the rear. Same with a tire pull.
Trending Topics
#8
x2. best idea is to take it to a reputable tire and alignment center. if they do their job, they will tell you if your tires are wearing improperly, cupping, feathering etc. have the tires balanced and rotated if you think its time. the alignment mechanic should 'shake' the front end before the alignment and tell you whether or not you need parts. if you have bad front end parts, he can't do the alignment. throw some new pads and buy new or turn your rotors. they are warped.
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
i am having the same issue, and its driving me crazy, truck pulls to the left, i have to turn to the right to straighten it out, pulls even harder left when braking, i can feel a side to side wobble at low speed and overall it just doesnt feel right when i hit a bump while turning
...tires have been rotated, i checked my calipers, not sticking, rotors seem to be true(checked with flat edge on level)..cleaned and repacked wheel bearings..I can't tell if any steering components are worn, don't know what else to do, and dont have the $$ to throw parts at it..any more suggestions?
...tires have been rotated, i checked my calipers, not sticking, rotors seem to be true(checked with flat edge on level)..cleaned and repacked wheel bearings..I can't tell if any steering components are worn, don't know what else to do, and dont have the $$ to throw parts at it..any more suggestions?
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Toronto, Ont, CA
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To check if the tie rods are garbage slide underneath your rig and pull on them up and down if you hear a clunking noise and the tie rod moves up and down your tie rods are junk. To check ball joints jack up the truck until the wheels are off the ground and then place one hand on the top of the tire and one on the bottom then pullback and forth, there shouldnt be any movement and if you again hear a clunking noise than your BJ's are junk. Not too sure if there is any play allowed for BJ's anyone know?
#14
Contributing Member
You need to make sure all of your steering and suspension components are in good shape first. That means EVERYTHING, from control arm bushings, idler arm, pitman arm, ball joints, wheel bearings, and of course the inner and outer tie rods. You can throw tons of money at it with new tires and an alignment, but if those parts are warn, their going to mess everything up
Check the ball joins and wheel bearings by jacking the tire/s off the ground and removing the tire. Grab the brake disk at 12 and 6 o-clock positions, and try to shake it. If it wobbles up and down, and makes some obvious noise, take note of what is wobbling. If the brake disk is wobbling, but the spindle appears to be staying solid in place, then the wheel bearings are shot. If the entire spindle appears to be wobbling in sync with the brake disk, but you can see it move around against the control arms, then you have a shot ball joint, or multiple ball joints. This test should also give you an indication of the health of you control arm bushings too. While trying to shake things around, the control arms should stay in place. If they wobble around in the mounts they connected to the frame with, then the rubber bushings are shot. If you try the "wobble test" and everything feels pretty solid, them move to the steering linkage.
The steering linkage (tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm) is even easier to check. You can check them when the truck sitting on the ground, but it is better if you've already go the truck in the air so there's no tension on the parts that can throw the test off. Just start at one side and work your way across, grabbing tie rod joint end and giving it some firm tugs back and forth. The should swivel, as that's their normal nature as a ball-socket joint, but they should be rather firm, and shouldn't wobble around. Check all 4 tie rods, the pitman arm that's connected to the steering box and the center link on the driver's side, and the idler arm that's connected to the frame and the center link on the passenger side. If the boots are torn on any of them, they need to be replaced as well, because once the boot tares, the grease will leak out, sand and moisture will get in, the joint will rust and get all messed up.
Once you're positive everything is in good working condition, THEN bring it in and have the tires balances, and get an alignment
Personally, I would never do one without doing the other. If you get the tires balanced, but don't get an an alignment, the out of aligned tires are going to ware the tires unevenly and cause them to go out of balance again. If you get an alignment and don't get the tires balanced, chances are that things might get a little better, BUT, if they DO get better, that just means the tires were out of alignment; you'll probably still have a high speed vibration, from running the tires out of alignment and causing odd ware on them, thus they need to be balanced.
Check the ball joins and wheel bearings by jacking the tire/s off the ground and removing the tire. Grab the brake disk at 12 and 6 o-clock positions, and try to shake it. If it wobbles up and down, and makes some obvious noise, take note of what is wobbling. If the brake disk is wobbling, but the spindle appears to be staying solid in place, then the wheel bearings are shot. If the entire spindle appears to be wobbling in sync with the brake disk, but you can see it move around against the control arms, then you have a shot ball joint, or multiple ball joints. This test should also give you an indication of the health of you control arm bushings too. While trying to shake things around, the control arms should stay in place. If they wobble around in the mounts they connected to the frame with, then the rubber bushings are shot. If you try the "wobble test" and everything feels pretty solid, them move to the steering linkage.
The steering linkage (tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm) is even easier to check. You can check them when the truck sitting on the ground, but it is better if you've already go the truck in the air so there's no tension on the parts that can throw the test off. Just start at one side and work your way across, grabbing tie rod joint end and giving it some firm tugs back and forth. The should swivel, as that's their normal nature as a ball-socket joint, but they should be rather firm, and shouldn't wobble around. Check all 4 tie rods, the pitman arm that's connected to the steering box and the center link on the driver's side, and the idler arm that's connected to the frame and the center link on the passenger side. If the boots are torn on any of them, they need to be replaced as well, because once the boot tares, the grease will leak out, sand and moisture will get in, the joint will rust and get all messed up.
Once you're positive everything is in good working condition, THEN bring it in and have the tires balances, and get an alignment
Personally, I would never do one without doing the other. If you get the tires balanced, but don't get an an alignment, the out of aligned tires are going to ware the tires unevenly and cause them to go out of balance again. If you get an alignment and don't get the tires balanced, chances are that things might get a little better, BUT, if they DO get better, that just means the tires were out of alignment; you'll probably still have a high speed vibration, from running the tires out of alignment and causing odd ware on them, thus they need to be balanced.
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 10-21-2010 at 06:10 AM.
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
thanks for the tips, gonna give a try this weekend..i'm pretty sure its not my alignment or tires, as i had new tires and alignment done in may..after the alignment and tires the truck was like new...but it slowly started to drift again now its pretty bad and it pulls hard to the left when braking, i can almost feel like a high spot when the tire rotates slowly when on the brake..if that makes any sense
so has anyone bought steering components from worldsuspension.com..they are on ebay too..not sure if there stuff is junk or pretty decent..anyone?
so has anyone bought steering components from worldsuspension.com..they are on ebay too..not sure if there stuff is junk or pretty decent..anyone?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
06-01-2021 01:51 PM
Poncho0206
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
07-10-2015 06:21 PM
skoti89
Off Road Trip Planning, Expeditions, Trips, & Events
0
07-06-2015 07:45 PM