Tigerstripe40

I know, I should have put in a 3.4

But I wanted the peace of mind that a new motor would provide.

anyhow, here are some pics:

Bill

oooohh all shiny and clean.

Seeing that you know it's a turd, did you put anything else into it, or is it bone stock?

Tigerstripe40

It's mostly stock, but with a few upgrades.
I put in NEW OEM toyota parts where I could.
The engione was bored .050 over.
The crank is ground .020 under.

I have some grade 10.9 head bolts, similar to what Engnbldr sells
I have oversized SS valves.
I did put a crank from a 3VZ-FE in (forged).
We also ground out the rod journals, and a bunch of other stuff to improve engine longevity.

I was going to do Weazy's S2S cams, but I ran out of money (needed a new crank, and a few other new parts I wasn't counting on).
I will be putting headers on it a little while down the road.

snap-on

so what does it take to make it a stroker with the ground crank?

let me know how the temp runs on yours. my jasper that is .030 over seems to run warm under heavy load... ive been told its due to less block material

Bumpin' Yota

the joy of those cams is that you can always do em at a laterdate! And they WILL give you more hp/tq than headers will at 1/2 the cost....

How did the 3vz-fe crank compare to the 3vz-e crank? Is that a drop in mod?

Tigerstripe40

It pretty much dropped in.
The crank came from a junk yard motor, so it had to be ground.
But the 3VZ-E crank was junk.

dcg9381

Typically it takes a set of custom pistons, or OEM pistons cut approximately 1/2 of the increased crank stroke, if you can retain their shape and still have reasonable compression.

Oh yea, and an ECU that is OK with the volumetric changes that a stroker creates. Might talk to Tim at DOA to find out if this is even a reasonable thing to think about.


.030 is a minor overbore on most motors, unless the 3.0L casting is really thin, I'd be surprised if that's the cause of the heating up...

Bumpin' Yota

newb question - what's grinding a crank?

Tigerstripe40

Grinding a crank is machinging it to get it within a certain spec.

Sometimes, a crank has scored rod journals and main journals, and is out of round.

Grinding a crank is the process of bringing the crank back to spec, and making the main and rod journals smooth and circular.

Bumpin' Yota

Ok cool! Do you know, how much of the internals on this engine are forged or cast?

Btw - the build up looks GOOD!!

rockota

consider putting an Amsoil (or equivalent) dual by-pass filter on that as long as you are going this far. Not only good for the engine but makes it easier to change filters.

nice job!

aviator

Looks pretty sweet, I'm interested in that crank idea for [a long way] down the road... what's the difference between them? does the fe crank change the specs of the engine? ... nice paint job, why desert camo beige though?

Tigerstripe40

The 3VZ, 3VZ-FE, and 5VZ-FE cranks are all the stroke.

The primary difference, mechanically, between the 3VZ-E and 3VZ-FE is the top end of the motor.

The 5VZ-FE and the 3VZ-FE is bore.
Stroke is the same on all the motors.
(yes, I looked into boring the 3VZ-E to 3.4 liter, not going to happen, I'm afraid).

As for the paint job...
Initially, IW as trying to find a cummins 6AT or 4BT to put in there.
But I couldn't find one for a reasonable amoutn of money (under $3000).

And I didn't want to paint the block 'black' (hard to spot oil leaks).

So I conceeded and painted the block and accessories Cummins Beige..

MonsterMaxx

Has anyone ever broken a 3VZE crank? I wouldn't figure it had enough HP to do that. Not talking about oiling issues and spun bearings either which the 3VZE IS known for. My 3VZE is hipo to the max and while it's true I've had oiling issues, spun bearings, blown headgaskets and now a piston with a hole from detonation, the crank has held up fine (except for the one with the spun bearing.) If you are going to turbo it, a forged crank and some better rods would probably be worth it, but the 2 valve design just won't support the power you'd need to damage the stock crank. Better to put your money into something else, like an oil cooler. True, if you had to get a new crank anyway and the price was the same, go for the forged, but don't expect it to do you any good.

Porting, Cams, bigger valves, headers, etc will give you better performance in the higher rpms, but the 3VZE will never be a strong performer no matter what you do. It's why they went to a 4 valve in the 3.4

Truth of the matter is that if you want performance you need to swap to something different.
Or I can sell you mine (next summer), it's going to have a fresh rebuild and it's got every do dad possible for the 3.slow. It's a bright and shiny well polished turd.

Are you serious about trusting that bonehead Tim Jenkins from DOA? You'd better bring the vasoline, because he's F'd more people than Madonna. That crook was run out of California and had to move clear accross country. Just check out the BBB in CA on DOA Racing, he's got a record a mile long. I wouldn't let him oil the chain on a tricycle. He'll talk a slick line, but will screw you in the end. BUYER BEWARE!

dcg9381

That's mostly right.
You probably know what boring a motor is.
As the motor ages, friction removes a certain amount of material from the cylinder walls. If too much is removed, it needs to be bored to the next size out and new pistons provided, to get the piston-to-wall clearance correct.
*Most* bore sizes are done in .020 of an inch increments. ~.5mm.

Same thing is true with a crank. Cranks get scored. They need to be cut down until they're perfectly smooth again. Doing so removes material from the crank. You compensate by using a larger bearing size. You don't really bring in into spec, so much as you cut into it until it's smooth (within limits).
I've seen a few motors that don't need to be cut at all, the cranks simply get polished.
There's an acceptable "range" of crank wear before you have to cut them.

snap-on

Depending on geometry of the block you can also grind a crank to increase the stroke of the motor. but in doing so (like was mentioned when i asked) you generally need to change pistions.

btw in "performance" motors when you over bore them they generally go to custom lightened pistions because of the addtional weight assocaited with being larger in diameater. But usually that only comes in toplay for high rpm applications as you increase the stress in the rods (and thus change rod designs cough I-beam cough) if you dont lighten the pistions on an overbore

In hindsite im sorry the Weazy cams didnt come out sonner as i would have put them in my rebuild.... and its so fresh (only been driveing it for a few months now) i cant bring myself to park the runner again to tare it down and put them in.

Bumpin' Yota

SnapOn how long before you need to do a timing belt or waterpump? You can do it then!

Tigerstripe40

Got a recommendation?

I am looking at the Amsoil BMK-14.