irab88

iTrader: (4)

update?

and thanks for the seat. showed up either yesterday or today.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hey Ian,

I'm about the head out to the garage right now to install the new (correct) input shaft seal on the transmission, and also the throwout bearing on the shaft.

I sent back my TrailGear T case mount that stripped earlier this week and am awaiting them to ship me out a new one. I also ordered new OEM bolts for mounting it to the crossmember, just to be extra sure it's correct.

In the FSM, I'm pretty sure the torque specs for those 4 bolts from teh crossmember to the mount was 32 ft/lbs....anyone have different info?

Glad you go the seat! Got one more for anyone who wants one

Marlin Customer Service: 1
Trail-Gear customer service: 0




Phil

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

DAMN IT!!

I am pretty frustrated right now.

Remember the input shaft seal that I got and was too large? I got the replacement one from my local parts store (and it cost twice as much as the previous), and it's still too large. The inner diameter is correct it appears but the outer diameter is still too large by about 1/4". And, the store just closed for the day 5 minutes ago (I live 10 minutes away). I wanted to take in the bearing retainer with the old seal still in to show them what was wrong.

I'm pissed - had a few hours tonight slated to take care of all this and pretty much pre the transmission for installation, and now I have to wait and find more time later

I was able to get the throwout bearing onto the carrier at least - just tapped it in nice and slow with my trusty rubber mallet.



ARRRRRRRG!!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Well since I can't do anything else tonight...here are some photos for you guys to enjoy....

Here is the FIRST seal I got from the store that was way too large:



And here is the newer one that has what seems to be the correct inner diameter, yet is still too large overall:







The bearing retainer, if anyone's curious what it looks like:


And here is the throwout bearing newly pressed onto the carrier. I just took my rubber mallet and, with the bearing side down on a block, slowly tapped evenly around the bearing carrier until it was seated.






Here's what I'm wondering on the carrier/bearing.....how flush should the bearing be with the carrier? In the photos you can kind of see a small gap. I didn't want to tap it too much so that the bearing was contacting the carrier. What do you guys think? Leave as is or does it need to tap in until there is no more "Daylight"?

Phil

aquaprice

The part # for the right seal is 1981 or N1981.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks aquaprice, that's what I picked up today!

Blackulua

I did a couple of those seal jobs it's for sure to stop any oil leaks

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Got the seal replaced last night with little issue. Did it at halftime during the 49ers game

Maybe tonight or tomorrow I'll get it buttoned up with the throwour bearing installed, etc.

Need to call trail gear and find out what the heck is going on with my "no questions asked" warranty return from last week on that transfer case mount....

irab88

iTrader: (4)

just an fyi- you will feel more vibration with that mount. thank goodness i didn't do the engine mounts as well.

for re-mounting the trans, i found it relatively easy to do with the crossmember in, t-case mount bolted to the x-member, and mount not attached to the t-case. at least, once you get the shaft in the clutch. then there are the 2 17mm bolts on the side that you can use to further line it up and pull it together. the one on the driver's side goes through the exhaust bracket first.

or if you have another method that works, i'm just posting what worked for me

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Ian - I have the LCE header so I didn't need to deal with the OEM exhaust bits like the FSM referred to - whew!

I'm not sure what you mean however, about the installation? I was going to mount the crossmember to the new TG mount, and then that mount to the transfter case, and raise it up as one complete unit on a jack (with a buddy) and guide it in, and then bolt up the crossmember to the frame (not torqued down), and THEN deal with the bellhousing bolts. And after that, torque everything to spec.

I don't quite follow your suggested method though - can you please try and re word it?

Also, got my OEM bolts for mounting the crossmember to the transfer case mount....the FSM says 32 lb/lbs if I am reading it correctly. The dealer did not have any info older than 1995 so I'm hoping someone else out there does?

Thanks

irab88

iTrader: (4)

this is what i did:
-tranny on jack
-line up tranny with engine
-insert input shaft to clutch/pilot bearing
-bolt t-case mount to x-member
-bolt x-member to frame
(at this point, the t-case mounting holes should be out of line with the mount's holes, but the t-case will rest in the mount)
-work the tranny until you can get the 2 17mm bolts in (the ones on the sides)
-once everything is lined up, tighten those bolts to pull the tranny to the engine
-get all the other bolts

that's how i did it, and it worked just fine for me. i never tried the way you're going to do it, but it should work about the same (as in good results). when you mount the t-case mount, leave all the bolts loose so you can slide it around a little bit if you need to.

and something i had to keep reminding myself of: the trans will only raise so far before it hits the tunnel. you probably are already aware of this, though

let me know if you need anything else

irab88

iTrader: (4)

70 ft-lbs for the x-member

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/manualtrans/7remov.pdf

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Ian - that PDF won't let me open it.

Those specs seem high - I think you and I have different bolts/crossmembers/transmissions - my bolts are 8mmx1.25 - I can't imagine putting that much torque on them. I think 32 lb/ft is what I need for the W56, but would love to hear from someone with my hardware.

Thanks for outlining the technique as well - I don't think that would work for me since the brunt of the weight liees where the crossmember attaches to the transmission (so the jack would be in the way of the mounting bolts if I tried your method).

I think I'll hook it up ahead of time, place on the jack, and then work it in, similar to what you did.

Great work BTW - you work quickly!

Will keep you guys posted as I get time (and parts) to do more....

Phil

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hey, that PDF worked now!

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/manualtrans/7remov.pdf

It looks like it's 9 ft/lbs for the crossmember to the carrier, and 70 ft/lbs for the crossmember to the frame, in that photo?

9 seems low, considering it's essentially holding the transmission the crossmember???

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i also didn't replace the trans input seal. and you had to wait on getting the right/fixed/warrantied parts.

i forgot about the year difference... duh ...

you might have to jack the truck up to get it all under the frame. depends on how much lift you have. i've got 1.5" bj spacers and had to jack it up ~3-4". still easier than strapping it on under the truck.

also, watch the wires. i pinched one (that goes to the o2 sensors) when i mounted it. no issues or worries, but it's stuck for now.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

yeah, that's what i got. i just torqued to what i felt would hold (more than 9ft-lb, but able to be removed with a 1/4" ratchet)

that does seem small for a considerable piece of load-bearing structure.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I have a 4" bracket lift so I think I'll clear it

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Seen your issues with the wrong parts, that is frustrating or getting one that is correct and fails when installed.

Sounds like things are starting to move along.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Just got off the phone with TG....my crossmember mount, which i sent back to them (arrived Wed) has yet to be even looked at for the "no questions asked" warranty.....so annoying.

I'm leaving Sunday on a 2 week business trip (and another one right after that) - really wanted to wrap this up before then :/

abecedarian

I've been away a few days so I'm just going to say: "This is why I don't like working on transmissions." And I appreciate people correcting me: this is how information moves on.

I can tune an older two stroke Detroit by ear... but hate transmissions.