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When I get the new head on. I want to do a new oil filter and run some cheap oil to get all the crap out. I'm going to change the oil and filter at 50 miles or so. I will probably do that 2x before I put the Mobil 1 in.
My question is: It has not had an oil change in a long time. It was just being topped off. So there is some sludge in there. ( I know shame on me) What kind of oil ( weight ) should I run for the first changes? Is thinner better? And what about the sludge? Some people are saying to use a 1/2 qt of ATF in place of 1/2 qt of oil.
Is this what I should do? Or should I do something else?
I'm having second thoughts on This head gasket. I's so far in to this I don't want to screw up now. Should I go to the dealer on Friday (Payday) and just buy the OEM Toyota head gasket?
I came across different reviews on head gaskets that look like this. but no bad ones on the evergreen brand.
Some of the bad ones are gaskets that look like this and have filed over fire rings. but mine does not, so i just don't know.
Are you sure there is sludge in the bottom? I have used half oil and half diesel fuel to flush out dirty motors and then do an oil change, run with a new oil and filter for about 30 minutes and then do another oil change. I just let it idle for about 20 minute with the diesel in it. It will rattle but never had a problem with one. Diesel is oily.
I have the exact same head gasket kit that you have posted in the picture above. A friend of mine had me to buy a complete head with the same kit for my truck after the cam went bad.
He does mechanic work and I have seen him use that kit several times and have never seen one come back. I am going to use my kit this winter when I finish putting my motor back together.
Everyone is going to have their opinions. The only gasket I have seen with bad head gaskets is Rock and I am not even sure if they are still available. Do not get Rock gaskets confuse with Rock Auto.
I have used Toyota, Engblder, and Gasket Pro and never had one to fail. One of the biggest things I see when doing a blown head gasket is the head bolts come loose. I have seen them come out with just my fingers. Anytime I pull a valve cover off, I always sit my torque wrench to about 5 pounds less then the specified torque. I cant tell you how many times I have found loose head bolts. I am starting to think that may be the biggest cause of head gasket failure.
When you pulled the head, did some bolts seem quite a bit looser then the others? I am just curious. Make sure your bolt holes are good and clean and no fluid is at the bottom or the bolt could possibly not be seated as far down as need be. Later on when you get it running and get a few hundred miles on it retorque the head bolts to the proper specification (68 I think, I have it wrote on my shop wall but cant recall right off) there after, anytime I have the valve cover off, I just do a quick check.
Everyone is going to have their opinions. The only gasket I have seen with bad head gaskets is Rock and I am not even sure if they are still available. Do not get Rock gaskets confuse with Rock Auto.
When you pulled the head, did some bolts seem quite a bit looser then the others? I am just curious. Make sure your bolt holes are good and clean and no fluid is at the bottom or the bolt could possibly not be seated as far down as need be. Later on when you get it running and get a few hundred miles on it retorque the head bolts to the proper specification (68 I think, I have it wrote on my shop wall but cant recall right off) there after, anytime I have the valve cover off, I just do a quick check.
Great idea! Adjust the valves and check your headbolts. I've never checked them but I was lucky.
Thanks nordicwargod... Going 5 or so pounds below is not going to cause any issues but is tight enough to let you know if any have backed out. I bet if 5 people checked their head bolts, we would have one or two to say they had some loose.
I am not sure. I don't see any but I have/had a slow oil leak ( I think it was the front seal) but I just keep adding oil every few months.
I have used half oil and half diesel fuel to flush out dirty motors and then do an oil change, run with a new oil and filter for about 30 minutes and then do another oil change. I just let it idle for about 20 minute with the diesel in it. It will rattle but never had a problem with one. Diesel is oily.
Ok I got some cheap oil and a filter at Walmart for use to clean the system. I will do the 50/50 oil/diesel. after it is cleaned I plan on using Mobile 1 and a wix filter.
I have the exact same head gasket kit that you have posted in the picture above. A friend of mine had me to buy a complete head with the same kit for my truck after the cam went bad.
He does mechanic work and I have seen him use that kit several times and have never seen one come back. I am going to use my kit this winter when I finish putting my motor back together.
Ok then I will go ahead and use it.
Everyone is going to have their opinions. The only gasket I have seen with bad head gaskets is Rock and I am not even sure if they are still available. Do not get Rock gaskets confuse with Rock Auto.
Well I have not seen a bad reviews of this particular gasket set.
I have used Toyota, Engblder, and Gasket Pro and never had one to fail. One of the biggest things I see when doing a blown head gasket is the head bolts come loose.
I was kind of thinking this as well do to the torque specs being revised to solve problems.
I have seen them come out with just my fingers. Anytime I pull a valve cover off, I always sit my torque wrench to about 5 pounds less then the specified torque. I cant tell you how many times I have found loose head bolts. I am starting to think that may be the biggest cause of head gasket failure.
I will do that from now on.
When you pulled the head, did some bolts seem quite a bit looser then the others? I am just curious.
Yes on the number 3 cylinder, where the breach was I think I could of puled out the intake side one with a 1/4 ratchet. A few of them were significantly looser than others. I felt I could of solved or put off the head gasket chance if i re torqued them all down. But went a head and pulled the head. ( It turned out it was cracked any way. But I don't think it was leaking there yet. But some of the bolts seamed stretched
Make sure your bolt holes are good and clean and no fluid is at the bottom or the bolt could possibly not be seated as far down as need be. Later on when you get it running and get a few hundred miles on it retorque the head bolts to the proper specification (68 I think, I have it wrote on my shop wall but cant recall right off) there after, anytime I have the valve cover off, I just do a quick check.
Yea i traced them with a tread chaser and blew then out with break cleaner then used a air compressor. to blow it all out.
Oh and a quick note: Do i put the spray copper gasket on both side of the head gasket? I seem to remember something about not spraying the top part that touches the cylinder head. Something about slip or slip pates.
Oh and a quick note: Do i put the spray copper gasket on both side of the head gasket? I seem to remember something about not spraying the top part that touches the cylinder head. Something about slip or slip pates.
Clean and dry is the way I've done it. Many others may have an opinion on this too. Its a controversial subject just as correct/best headgasket to use.
Important thing is that both the head and deck are flat and almost as important is that the bolts are torqued equally which means clean threads so they don't give you a false reading.
I have never used any sealant on the head gasket, clean and dry is how I have always done it. I don't think I have seen on here anybody using spray on sealant. You do need to put some sealant on the corners of the timing cover and head.
i use engine oil on the head bolts, but brake clean and chase the holes on the block. it makes sure you get consistent clamping pressure when you torque the bolts. there is a huge difference between dry and oiled.
I want to clean out any gasket scrapings that got in the oil pan. I know the best option is to pull the oil pan.
But I want to put it off for a next month or so. Can I just pour something down the front of the timing cover like
diesel and open the drain plug to let it flow out with any crap or scrapings from the old gasket. I don't want any small oil passages being plugged.
Have you seen a lot of stuff either fall in or peek in with a flashlight and see stuff sitting there?
The oil pick-up has a screen for the larger stuff and hopefully the oil filter will get the smaller stuff. If you don't pull it I would change the filter after 50 miles just for piece of mind.
If there is a whole bunch in there just pull it now, the pick-up screen can get clogged.
Have you seen a lot of stuff either fall in or peek in with a flashlight and see stuff sitting there?
The oil pick-up has a screen for the larger stuff and hopefully the oil filter will get the smaller stuff. If you don't pull it I would change the filter after 50 miles just for piece of mind.
If there is a whole bunch in there just pull it now, the pick-up screen can get clogged.
This is before I used the shop vac with a small adapter to suck up what I could see.
my plan was to use some Walmart oil and a filter to run it for 50-100 miles and them change it again. Depending on how the filter and oil look. Do it one more time or refill it with mobile 1 and a good filter.
Edited to add: If the oil pick up got clogged, It would change the oil pressure right?
Any Waring signs of a oil starved engine before it destroys it's self?
Oil light would come on, on and off. Flicker possibly. Had it happen on my Ford once but that was the sender. Make sure the light works!
Would be nice to have a gauge.
I know when my dad ( original owner) had the truck built, the dealer went over every option they had and he took them all.
I don't know what good a tac is on an automatic.
There was only 5 SR5 in californium in 1995. But it is the 1996 model. I remember him coming home bitching that they put in the moon roof and he did not want that.
He has a lot of custom things on it like extra leaf springs so it could carry more weight. Its got a rear bumper for a different year. He wanted it so they welded up brackets for it.
There are two types of SR5 gauges and they both interchange just fine. The one you are showing, is the one I suggest not pulling the speedometer needle off to correct the mileage. Leave the needle on that one. It has a splined shaft on it and the needle will break on you. I think I post on the SR5 gauge swap thread of a video that I found that is a better way of changing the mileage.
I have bought bumpers and brackets off of ebay that just bolt right up if you ever want to change bumpers.
Yea my back is feeling better so back to work...
So how tight are Oil filters supposed to be? I was going to go hand tight plus a 1/4 turn.
EDIT:
Manual says seal on mating surface then 3/4 turn.
I don't know if i asked or not but should i use blue loctite for 22re camshaft bolt? I didn't, I just torqued it to 58ft. but its a easy fix right now.
10-12-2015, 04:31 PM
