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New rebuilt 22-re (85-95) **BLOWN**

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Old 07-29-2010, 09:20 PM
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yeah.. I got the engine as payment for installing one in my dad's truck. I didn't have a Toyota. I had a 93 Toyota pickup a couple years ago, and been waiting to get back to one since.
Old 07-29-2010, 09:22 PM
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Ha so you've been rebuilding an engine that didn't have a home? Man props for staying motivated on this project! Seems like its gonna pay out for you since you found a vehicle to put it in
Old 07-29-2010, 09:23 PM
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How's yours coming?
Old 07-29-2010, 09:27 PM
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Ugh don't get me started, its a sore subject

The machinist has one more engine to build and then mine is up...hopefully hehe
Old 07-29-2010, 09:29 PM
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are you still set on chrome?
Old 07-29-2010, 09:32 PM
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oh yeah baby, NPR rings for life!

Never used them myself but I believe Ted when he says they are proven, and my machinist has nothing but good things to say about NPR rings from his personal experience
Old 07-29-2010, 09:39 PM
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I second NPR. I think I will be going moly.
Old 07-29-2010, 09:40 PM
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Sweet! All the cool kids are runnin' them
Old 07-30-2010, 06:30 AM
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Looks like a good clean slate to start working with.
Old 08-01-2010, 10:33 AM
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WOW:


found 3 nintendo DS games. a perfect gift for my step brothers.

My dog (Mr. Bear) found his spot already:



Anyways, back to the engine!

Lapped valve on the left, unlapped on right:




( the newly lapped area is the gray band second in from the outside)


And two comparison shots on the replacement valve:

Before:



After:




I lapped the valves because well it's cheap, and it puts my mind at ease.
I was worried about the carbon covered valves chewing up their seats. Every valve/seat came out looking good, and now I know they will seat well and almost instantly.
Old 08-02-2010, 06:25 AM
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Sweet deal. So how much $$$ would you say you have in to this engine right now? Im curious because I would like to find a used one and start from scratch.
Old 08-02-2010, 06:33 AM
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just for your reference I have about $1800 into mine, this includes a brand new stock complete head from engnbldr, brand new crank, brand new rods, engnbldr 268 cam, machine work to bore to 30 over and shaved block 20 thous, weber carb, new timing stuff including cover, new oil pump, new adjusters for rockers. Pretty much the only thing original on the motor is the rocker assembly and the block.
Old 08-02-2010, 06:35 AM
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looks like you did a good job lapping those valves, one piece of advise though when you put these back together into the head, you might want to double check it by "blue checking" the seating surfaces
Old 08-02-2010, 05:00 PM
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So far, in $298.31.

Said and done; probably looking at $500.

Thats if everything goes according to plan!
Old 08-02-2010, 05:42 PM
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This is a fun thread, thanks for sharing all the pics and the step-by-steps!
Old 08-02-2010, 10:45 PM
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What are your thoughts on main/rod bearings?

King sounds pretty interesting considering they tend to hold up pretty well in high performance applications, and are reasonably priced.
Old 08-03-2010, 09:33 AM
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BEARING MATERIALS
At the original equipment level, the use of aluminum main and rod bearings is growing for a variety of reasons. One is that aluminum bearings are less expensive to manufacturer than bimetal or trimetal copper/lead bearings. Switching to aluminum also gets rid of lead, which is an environmental concern for manufacturers. But there are many other reasons, too.
"Federal-Mogul provides both copper/lead and aluminum bearings. But perceptions are changing with respect to aluminum versus copper/lead," said Federal-Mogul's Ron Thompson. "Most of the original equipment manufacturers are going to aluminum bearings, as are a growing number of rebuilders in the aftermarket. Many people are switching to aluminum because it provides improved durability and better control over tolerances.
"Overplated bearings tend to trap and hold dirt that can score the crankshaft. But aluminum bearings tend to flush out debris rather than hold it. Aluminum bearing alloys also contain silicone which helps resist seizure and actually polishes the crank.
"I can see the day when traditional copper/lead bearings may only be used for racing," said Thompson.
Ed Pavelick at King Engine Bearings, Cedar Grove, NJ, says that 95 percent of his company's aftermarket bearings are now aluminum. "We made the decision to go to aluminum several years ago when we developed our exclusive Alecular bearing material. Itis an aluminum alloy that contains tin, copper and several other elements. We think it provides the kind of longevity that today's market demands."
Pavelick said that traditional trimetal rod and main bearings have a three-layer construction. The steel backing plate is covered with a layer of copper/lead overlayed with a thin (.0005 to .0008 in.) coating of babbitt. King�s aluminum alloy bearings, by comparison, use just two layers, a .012 to .015 inch thick layer of their Alecular alloy over the steel shell. Pavelick says this provides greater conformability as well as better embedability for microparticles larger than .0004 inch in diameter, which are most responsible for scoring cranks and tearing or weakening thin babbitt overlays.
Another plus with aluminum, says Pavelick, is that it has greater temperature resistance than copper/lead. The melting point of their aluminum alloy is over 1,100 degrees F, which is almost three times as high as babbitt. This provides added protection against localized overheating due to detonation, overloading, misalignment and similar conditions.
Bob Anderson, engine bearing team leader at AE Clevite Engine Parts, Ann Arbor, MI says that although many OEMs are using aluminum, trimetal copper/lead bearings are still the preferred bearing material for the aftermarket.
"We have stayed with a traditional trimetal copper/lead bearing because thatis what the aftermarket wants. We believe trimetal copper/lead offers the best combination of strength, surface action and embedability. Copper/lead can carry 12,000 pounds per square inch versus about 7,000 to 8,000 psi for aluminum, it can handle less than perfect conditions, and is a more forgiving material than aluminum in a typical aftermarket application.
Chris Worthington, a bearing engineer at ACL Automotive America Inc., Tucker, GA said that although the Japanese are using a lot of aluminum bearings, Ford and General Motors are still using copper/lead bearings in many of their engines because of the high strength of the material. As for the aftermarket, most of it remains copper/lead for domestic engines and a mix of copper/lead and aluminum bearings for import applications. He said the high performance market is almost all copper/lead bearings.
"Although most rebuilders still prefer copper/lead because it is a more forgiving material, others prefer to use the same bearing material as the original bearings. So we have both aluminum and copper/lead bearings" said Worthington.
Gene Hailey, vice president of technical services at Enginetech, Inc., Carrolton, TX, said his company is looking at aluminum bearings but for now is sticking with copper/lead because that is what everybody wants.
"Our main concerns with aluminum are its load carrying ability and embedability. Oil filters typically only screen out particles that are about seven microns and larger in size, so the bearing material must be able to handle the dirt that gets through."
As for the environmental issues associated with lead, it is mostly a concern for bearing manufacturers not end users. "The government is not concerned about the amount of lead in used engine oil because the amount is usually insignificant."
One change that Hailey said has been made in Enginetech bearings is to reduce the amount of eccentricity and crush relief. Although greater eccentricity increases oil flow to improve bearing cooling and longevity, it also causes a slight drop in oil pressure readings on engine test equipment used by many large rebuilders. So to produce more traditional test results, eccentricity was reduced.


BEARING SELECTION
Most rebuilders continue to prefer copper/lead replacement bearings. Jerry Miller of Crankshaft Supply, Minneapolis, MN, says he recommends trimetal copper/lead bearings because the material offers good conformability, embedability and longevity.
"About 90 percent of the crankshaft kits we sell are sold with AE Clevite "P" or Federal-Mogul "CP" bearings. We also sell kits with ACL and Enginetech bearings, too.
"The biggest problem we see with any type of bearing are people who replace a crankshaft but do not clean the engine. Debris gets into the bearings and wipes out the bearings and crank," said Miller.
Larry Erickson of Crankshaft Rebuilders in Sandford, FL, says is company sells about 100,000 crankshaft kits annually primarily to retailers. "We use Federal-Mogul, AE Clevite, ACL, King and Enginetech bearings. In most cases, we would rather go with a copper/lead bearing because it is more forgiving in a dirty environment. But we are also using a lot of aluminum bearing these days, too.
"Almost half of the warranty problems we see are worn flange bearings that have failed at short mileages of 300 to 500 miles. We have found that the underlying cause in almost every case is a ballooned torque converter. Nine out of ten of the vehicles have a trailer hitch. When pump pressure inside the automatic transmission exceeds the preset pressure, it diverts the bypass pressure through the oil cooler lines. If the lines are clogged, pressure can build up inside the torque converter causing it to balloon and push forward on the crankshaft," said Erickson.
John Kluemper, quality control manager of gasoline engines at Jasper Engines, Jasper, IN, says Jasper uses both types of bearing materials.
"We use mostly Federal-Mogul bearings, some of which are trimetal copper/lead and others are aluminum. Both kinds work fine, though we think trimetal copper/lead can handle more dirt and debris in a dirty operating environment."
Kluemper says Jasper live tests each engine after it has been rebuilt. He says too much eccentricity in the bearings can cause an engine to lose oil pressure. "Oil pressure can vary up to two pounds at hot idle depending on the amount of eccentricity in the bearings, so we prefer bearings that have less rather than more eccentricity. We also try to maintain minimum oil clearances of about .001 to .002 inches on most engines to minimize noise and maximize oil pressure."
One mistake he said rebuilders should be careful to avoid when installing bearings is failing to oil the threads on the main cap bolts. "If you do not oil the threads, the cap may not tighten all the way down leaving too much clearance in the bearings. We have seen caps installed with dry threads that had .0045 inch of clearance. When the caps were reinstalled with oiled threads, the clearance decreased to .002 inches," said Kluemper.
Source: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar797.htm

Last edited by gbwsaw28; 08-03-2010 at 09:37 AM.
Old 08-03-2010, 09:42 AM
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Rock bearings are repackaged King bearings
Old 08-08-2010, 09:21 AM
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I have been looking for a good machine shop for a while now, but finally after asking two mechanics, I think I found one. Had Piston/Bore clearance checked, and interestingly enough he found there wasn't enough clearance and took a little off and got a nice hone



Old 08-18-2010, 10:58 PM
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It's been a busy summer. Saving up for school. About ready to pull motor. probably this weekend. Anyways, got a few questions to pass by you guys.

I don't know which transmission I have. Its a 88 4runner 5 spd 4WD

Is something wrong here? What did this sensor connect to?



Also, I have one hanging plastic connector and one that is plugged in. This okay?



Thanks.


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