New guy looking for advice.
#1
New guy looking for advice.
Ok as of now i have a 92 extended cab 4x4 v6. It has absolutely no compression on the number 1 cylinder. Blown head gasket? Its going to cost me a ton just to fix this POS 3vze (head work =/ ). I recently found a 92 4x4 with a 4-banger in it. I know the 22re is a much better motor. I can probably get the truck for about 2200 and its in way better shape. Runs good but has a small exhaust leak...pretty sure from the manifold. It will also need a clutch, and has no AC.
So I am basically looking for advice here. Fix 3.slow? Or buy the 4 banger and fix it.
Also wanted to know if the AC stuff from the 3vze will bolt up the the 22re?
I appreciate all feedback, positive or negative. Thanks! =)
If anyone needs more info just ask.
So I am basically looking for advice here. Fix 3.slow? Or buy the 4 banger and fix it.
Also wanted to know if the AC stuff from the 3vze will bolt up the the 22re?
I appreciate all feedback, positive or negative. Thanks! =)
If anyone needs more info just ask.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Yorktown, VA
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would buy the 22re they are better engines. Do you have to have AC where you live? If so I'd just wait and try to find a 22re with AC.
If you want to fix the 3.0 I would get rid of it and do the 3.4 swap.
If you want to fix the 3.0 I would get rid of it and do the 3.4 swap.
#3
Registered User
i think the guy selling it is here on yt he was asking about it's value yesterday he had an early 90's that neededa clutch i dont remember the year. that aside, i would definitely buy the 22re but you shouldtry and find out the problem, might make more money selling the truck with a good runnning 3.
#4
Ive done a little research into the 3.4 swap. Would be cool. But way expensive.
#5
i think the guy selling it is here on yt he was asking about it's value yesterday he had an early 90's that neededa clutch i dont remember the year. that aside, i would definitely buy the 22re but you shouldtry and find out the problem, might make more money selling the truck with a good runnning 3.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Question-
buy running 22re for 2200
or
fix broken 3.0 for 2000??
Answer, buy 22re and sell 3.0 to finance installing AC on the 22re.
But everything between the evaporator (under the dash) to the condensor (behind the grill) should be the same. The only differences should be the compressor and the hoses from the compressor to the evaporator and from the condensor to the compressor.
buy running 22re for 2200
or
fix broken 3.0 for 2000??
Answer, buy 22re and sell 3.0 to finance installing AC on the 22re.
But everything between the evaporator (under the dash) to the condensor (behind the grill) should be the same. The only differences should be the compressor and the hoses from the compressor to the evaporator and from the condensor to the compressor.
#7
Question-
buy running 22re for 2200
or
fix broken 3.0 for 2000??
Answer, buy 22re and sell 3.0 to finance installing AC on the 22re.
But everything between the evaporator (under the dash) to the condensor (behind the grill) should be the same. The only differences should be the compressor and the hoses from the compressor to the evaporator and from the condensor to the compressor.
buy running 22re for 2200
or
fix broken 3.0 for 2000??
Answer, buy 22re and sell 3.0 to finance installing AC on the 22re.
But everything between the evaporator (under the dash) to the condensor (behind the grill) should be the same. The only differences should be the compressor and the hoses from the compressor to the evaporator and from the condensor to the compressor.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Clutch kit doesn't cost that much, IIRC. Have you considered doing the work yourself? The clutch, that is?
The 3.0 could be just a burned valve. Fairly common. Still means top end rebuild. But the bottom end may be clean enough for a while. Top end rebuilds are not that hard....really. And, 2k for head work? Hmmm...mine was less than that.
The 3.0 could be just a burned valve. Fairly common. Still means top end rebuild. But the bottom end may be clean enough for a while. Top end rebuilds are not that hard....really. And, 2k for head work? Hmmm...mine was less than that.
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
just my 2 cents...
bought my truck and the clutch gave up the ghost about 5 miles from the guys house... called toyota and they quoted me 850$ in parts and labor... instead paid 300 for a clutch kit, and had it installed at a buddy's shop for 150$... then about 2 months later, the truck wouldnt pass smog... ended up being the #3 exhaust valve was stuck open... with a complete top end rebuild i spent close to 1600$... so i guess your looking anywhere from 2000 - 2500 dollars... sorry bro, but theres no clean way out...
bought my truck and the clutch gave up the ghost about 5 miles from the guys house... called toyota and they quoted me 850$ in parts and labor... instead paid 300 for a clutch kit, and had it installed at a buddy's shop for 150$... then about 2 months later, the truck wouldnt pass smog... ended up being the #3 exhaust valve was stuck open... with a complete top end rebuild i spent close to 1600$... so i guess your looking anywhere from 2000 - 2500 dollars... sorry bro, but theres no clean way out...
#10
Clutch kit doesn't cost that much, IIRC. Have you considered doing the work yourself? The clutch, that is?
The 3.0 could be just a burned valve. Fairly common. Still means top end rebuild. But the bottom end may be clean enough for a while. Top end rebuilds are not that hard....really. And, 2k for head work? Hmmm...mine was less than that.
The 3.0 could be just a burned valve. Fairly common. Still means top end rebuild. But the bottom end may be clean enough for a while. Top end rebuilds are not that hard....really. And, 2k for head work? Hmmm...mine was less than that.
#11
Contributing Member
I'd cut my losses with the 3.0, sell it or part it out, but don't rebuild it. But that's just me. Glad to be rid of mine, will never buy another one.
#12
But I know the 22re's better. Just gotta read up on how to do the clutch. Trying to sell my bug at the moment to fund the purchase =)
#13
Have a quick question about the clutch situation on the 22re. When I drove the truck it seemed to shift just fine. 4wd work fine. No grinding or noises. It just seems to engage way late. Pedal is almost all the way back and it slips a little. Does this mean clutch replacement? Or could it be something simpler?
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Have a quick question about the clutch situation on the 22re. When I drove the truck it seemed to shift just fine. 4wd work fine. No grinding or noises. It just seems to engage way late. Pedal is almost all the way back and it slips a little. Does this mean clutch replacement? Or could it be something simpler?
does that mean you have your foot off the pedal and it has just a slight slippage?
it's possible that the clutch master cylinder and pedal aren't adjusted properly and are holding the clutch slightly released. maybe an adjustment would remedy the situation.
even if it doesn't, the clutch wear is just really starting to make itself known and this is the best time to catch it because the disc hasn't started to wear on the flywheel.
#16
"pedal is all the way back?"
does that mean you have your foot off the pedal and it has just a slight slippage?
it's possible that the clutch master cylinder and pedal aren't adjusted properly and are holding the clutch slightly released. maybe an adjustment would remedy the situation.
even if it doesn't, the clutch wear is just really starting to make itself known and this is the best time to catch it because the disc hasn't started to wear on the flywheel.
does that mean you have your foot off the pedal and it has just a slight slippage?
it's possible that the clutch master cylinder and pedal aren't adjusted properly and are holding the clutch slightly released. maybe an adjustment would remedy the situation.
even if it doesn't, the clutch wear is just really starting to make itself known and this is the best time to catch it because the disc hasn't started to wear on the flywheel.
#18
Sorry if what Im saying is very helpful. Im just now really getting into this whole motor thing.
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Clutch isn't too hard to do.. Just time consuming. I would recommend air tools to save some time, you're going to have to get a tranny jack or have a friend to stablize the tranny on a floor jack for removal.. That was about the hardest part of the whole job..
#20
If its going to the floor, but still engageing and disengaging properly it may just need ti be bleed.
I paid 150 something for my clutch from TG. I'll eventually get round to installing it. I think the slave cylinder is $80 from parts america.
I paid 150 something for my clutch from TG. I'll eventually get round to installing it. I think the slave cylinder is $80 from parts america.