Steve777

So when I did the brakes last week, it became pretty obvious that I needed new axles (CV boots shot), and there was a bit of play in the axle bearings. So I've been collecting the parts I need, and finally have everything ready to go. I've searched the posts on these topics and have a fair idea of what I need to do here, but wanted to ask a couple of Q's before I start in.

1. Given I will be pulling the wheel hub and doing the axle (on both sides), any suggestions on how to proceed? Most of the threads are doing one or the other, not both. Just curious if that makes any diff on how to do things.

2. The grease seals on the wheel hubs have been difficult to source. Have some on order, but just curious if there is anything wrong with reusing the old ones if they seem OK (assuming they don't need to be pulled).

TIA

millball

The grease seals must be removed to access the inner bearing.
I have, on occasion, reused one. Depends on how new and pliable the seal lip was, and if there was no damage from driving it out.
Best plan is always to use a new seal though.
On front wheel ABS equipped IFS trucks there is another seal that protects the tone ring and sensor area. It is bolted to the spindle. These are pricy, but there is no need to change this seal unless it is severely damaged or crumbled. It just keeps mud and debris from choking the ABS tone ring.
Not sure whether non-ABS trucks also use this seal or not.
Just because your front bearings are loose does not necessarily mean that they need replacement.
Usually, they can be washed clean with solvent, inspected for any wear or damage and then reinstalled after repacking with grease.
The FSM details the procedure for adjusting the bearings so that there is correct minimal play.
My repair ledger says that the IFS grease seals are National #710092: a common, inexpensive seal.
The dust flange seals are National #710266

Steve777

Thanks millball.

I'm reviewing and printing out the manual pages on this. But before I yank the front hubs off, let me ask. Is there typically any play perpendicular to the axle when the proper preload is set? I was noticing maybe .004" or so (just by feel, did not mic it) on the hub which I assumed should not be there on properly working front bearings.

I'll check the preload before I pull too much, but thought I should ask does one normally feel a bit of play in the hub when the preload is right?

millball

Although there should be little to no bearing play felt when the spindle nut is torqued to FSM specs, (18 foot pounds as I recall, but don't take my word for it), the tapered roller bearings can successfully tolerate and operate for a very long time with a few thousandths clearance. Might just be an indication that the front bearings are ready for some simple cleaning and relubing. You need to inspect and repack them in any case.
If you have manual locking hubs, you might consider overhauling them at this time also. The gaskets and o-ring type seals for them are available.
Unless you do a lot of deep water fording, if you go thru your front axle thoroughly, you should'nt have to get in there again for a very long time.
Any play that you can feel might also be attributable to steering gear or ball joint play as well.
It is my experence that any wheel bearing play is very hard to judge with the brake calipers still installed.

Steve777

Well got some of the work done, and ran into another puzzle...

Took the wheel hubs off, and found the problem. The bearings and grease looked fairly new, however whoever installed them forgot to bend over the tab on the nut, so the bearing was working itself looser over time. Cleaned and regreased a bit and reset the freeplay/preload. Bearings seem smooth and no play.

Was about to do the axles, but I noticed something that I wanted to check on. When the locking hubs were off, I did a little testing on the axle spindle that comes thru the steering knuckle. That splined shaft end had what seemed like a lot of play in it. I could move it up/down and forward/back almost 1/8" There was also some in/out motion in the direction of the axle, but I wrote that off to a worn spider. I thought that spindle rode in bushings in the steering knuckle. Is it supposed to have that much play, or are the bushings that hold it worn down? And is it possible to replace those bushings without removing the knuckle? Figured I should know about this before putting the new axles in.



Thanks

rattlewagon

Your fine. The splined part rides in the lock out hub, the lock out hub is what centers it and holds it in place. As for in in out motion, you need some as because the axle will move a little as the suspension travels, and thats what the c clip and bolt on the end of the shaft are for.

Edit, Just so were clear, are you talking about the inner hub hear having play in it?

Steve777

No, not the inner hub in that diagram, that had a bit of play but generally seemed OK.

I was talking about the end of the axle shaft after the CV joint that goes through the center of the wheel bearings, and has the splines that the inner hub slide onto. That axle end is what has the +/- 1/8" play, and has me concerned...

JoshWorthing

I just came across this thread and I have the same question and the same issue as Steve777. Is this sort of thing ok??

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That needs to be able to move to keep the stress from building up from suspension travel

If it was tight things would break pretty quick.

ewong

Im gonna go off the cuff here as its been ages since I had the IFS apart.

The IFS axle shaft passes through a "bronze" bushing in the center of the spindle.
If stuff has been allowed to get loose (wheel bearings or non OEM hubs such as WARN), the axle rides on the bronze bushing and "eggs" it out a bit.

Its not to hard to R&R the bushing with the spindle apart for the wheel bearings. You'll need a long "soft" (brass, alum) drift bar to push it out and a soft hammer to tap a new bushing in...