Need advice on IFS set up!
#21
I got rancho 5000. They were for A samurai. They are about an inch and a half longer than stock. Here is the part number RS5167. Had em for a couple months with my bj spacers. So far so good handled well in pismo, forest trails, everything I have gone through so far. Good ride for a 4x4. Takes ruts fairly smooth with the torsions relaxed.
#24
#26
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good info here, i'll be putting on ball joint spacers this weekend, granted i find the time, and relaxing my tbars. i as well will be buying myself some 33/10.50's for xmas!
Last edited by yotasavg; 12-03-2010 at 10:28 AM.
#27
But, it's not the ONLY reason I guess either. The other would be if you REALLY needed a larger/longer shock for the extra shock absorbtion and durability. Like say if you were going to build a desert race truck and/or prerun the Baja 1000 or something. Then you'll need a larger/longer shock to handle the stresses of the continuous high-speed jolts. A larger/longer shock, even used well within it's travel limitations, will have alot more ability to absorb the punishment and run cooler when that abuse is unrelenting.
I feel the need to mention this, before Blazen8 sees this thread busts my balls for not doing so. So why not show everybody what I mean by displaying some pics from Blazeland.us? Bear in mind these are best used with a LT(Long Travel)suspension intended for high-speed desert racing and the like. Not your every day trail/rock crawler rig.
Here they are:
#28
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...trucks-124467/
By moving you LCA stops up more, isn’t it going to mess the suspension geometry up somehow? How are you going to make your shock hoops, because the hole of the UCA where the shock goes thought its pretty small. (MudHippy, I’m not putting shock hoops on my truck, I understand that I don’t need them. I’m just wondering how he is going to do it.)
When it comes to shocks I guess I cant really decide until I measure the compressed and extended length I’m going to get with the bj spacers and the low profile bump stops. But I think I have narrow it down to this options: ome n98, doetsch 3000 or 8000, rancho 9k or 5k. I guess bilstein does not make the right lengths for you r trucks with bj spacers.
#29
Contributing Member
Ah, not really. I have no body lift. I am running the ball joint spacers, but they are modified along with the a-arms.
For the old stuff, the link in my sig.
For this winter's project, see here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...ph-2-a-225174/
And no, moving the LCA stops won't change my suspension geometry at all. It will just increase travel.
For the old stuff, the link in my sig.
For this winter's project, see here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...ph-2-a-225174/
And no, moving the LCA stops won't change my suspension geometry at all. It will just increase travel.
Last edited by AxleIke; 12-03-2010 at 11:26 AM.
#30
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.................................................. .................................................T hanks for the links. I appreciate it. I haven’t planned anything for the rear yet bc money is tight, but I was looking at the second set up and its pretty interesting. How much lift and travel do you get from it? I didn’t get that part. And is this mod for when your leafs are done?............................................. ....................
Last edited by ZUK; 12-04-2010 at 09:20 PM.
#31
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My rig is an everyday trail rig. It will be getting shock hoops that can accomodate the shocks I choose to put on and the travel I can get. Simple as that. There is no end-all solution in building a truck. It is completely up to the builder.
#32
I won't argue that. Do whatcha like!
I do wonder how much your opinion on an "end-all solution" for IFS might change once you get your LT coil-over conversion rigged up and running though.
I do wonder how much your opinion on an "end-all solution" for IFS might change once you get your LT coil-over conversion rigged up and running though.
Last edited by MudHippy; 12-05-2010 at 05:33 PM.
#33
#34
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^lol that really added to the helpfulness of this thread. I was looking at the pictures above from blazeland however, and i noticed that the one that has the red coilover on the shock also has a torsion bar... why is that? or has it yet to be removed? i can't see any reason for needing both...
#36
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Well, that actually isn't a bad way to go. You can essentially use the torsin and coilover together to get an incredibly adjustable spring system, and progressive spring rates. Essentially you can run a softer spring set on the CO, and use the torsion as a heavier spring. You set the torsion way back, so that it would be very soft when going over road bumps, letting the CO do the work on small travel suspension cycles. Then, when offroad, either flexing or jumping, you begin to get into the torsion bar, letting it stiffen the compression stroke as the arms near the bumpstops.
Or, at least that's how I'd do it.
Or, at least that's how I'd do it.
#37
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Well, that actually isn't a bad way to go. You can essentially use the torsin and coilover together to get an incredibly adjustable spring system, and progressive spring rates. Essentially you can run a softer spring set on the CO, and use the torsion as a heavier spring. You set the torsion way back, so that it would be very soft when going over road bumps, letting the CO do the work on small travel suspension cycles. Then, when offroad, either flexing or jumping, you begin to get into the torsion bar, letting it stiffen the compression stroke as the arms near the bumpstops.
Or, at least that's how I'd do it.
Or, at least that's how I'd do it.
#39
You mean the LT kit? I'm pretty sure he does.
http://blazeland.us/Page_3.html
http://blazeland.us/Page_3.html
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