andykrow

easy to overtighten the tensioner and screw it up. common mistake without a torque wrench. if the guides are good, and the chain has no to very little slack in it after you shut down the engine (pull the valve cover quick) your tensioner should be fine.

noise could be a rod or wrist pin... mine does this too. i thought it was the chain until i pulled the stethoscope out. def in the mid-block area. oh well i just turn up the radio. its a similar tone but the chain noise is a little more erratic. my noise is a very consistent tick, and not in the valvetrain, unfortunately.

someone can correct me if i'm wrong but if you get the noise while holding the rpm at a certain point, i don't think its the tc. tc noises i've experienced are there when you startup, usually there at idle but gone as soon as you're off idle, and then a short burst when you let off the gas. that said noises seem to vary widely on these 22's.

Inferno451

The AFM i swapped in has around 250k miles in it and was factory sealed, so hasn't been tweaked. I put in a Bosch sensor, but unless i'm mistaken, the 02 signal is ignored under full throttle. The rattling noise i hear is only under certain throttle positions (about 1/8 or 1/4 throttle), seems to be unrelated to rpm, but i DEFINITELY hear it when i let off the throttle to shift. No rattle under load. Very weird. I did notice a thin bright spot on the underside of the valve cover directly over the timing chain, so it seems to be hitting the valve cover. Is this a common problem? That could definitely be the rattle if the guides and tensioner are good. I figure if i'm not on the throttle, then there's a bit of slack in both sides of the chain, and the centrifugal force from the chain is causing it to lift off the sprocket just enough to hit the cover. Sound plausible?

Inferno451

Still not able to figure out why my truck is so slow... Seems like i've checked everything at least 3 times. I know my engine must be tired with so many miles on it, but could that really make it this slow?

Inferno451

Anybody have any ideas? I've heard so many great things about the 22re, but if it's always going to be this slow, there's no way it's going to cut it. Common causes of 22re power loss?

Slednecks594

Mine does very similar things that yours does. mine runs best wide open and about 1/8th to 1/4 throttle. curious to know what it is. when i go to take off is sputters and hesitates and doesn't want to go anywhere. pretty annoying.

sinful

sounds like timing related.

where is your timing set on? if it seems correct at 5 degrees with the ECU diag box shorted, try advancing the timing anyway to maybe 5 or 10 degreeds more and go for a test drive.

come back with results.

Inferno451

Timing (both valve and ignition) is SPOT on. I set it at 5 degrees BTDC with the correct terminals jumped and the engine warm. When i removed the jumper wire the timing jumped up, just like it should. Any other ideas? This seems to be a common problem. The truck moves with the throttle at any position, but i can tell that when it hits that certain spot as i'm letting off the throttle it seems like it wants to go faster and isn't bogging any more, but wants more throttle. If i give it more throttle then it bogs again. Can't think of any component that would cause something like that. It still won't break 70 on the freeway.

sinful

weird when I remove the jumper wire my timing wont move at all. It stays the same with or without the jumper. I'm wondering if the tps is bad or not adjusted right.


what I do know for sure is if I adjust the timing at 5 degrees with or without jumper, the truck has no power.

andykrow

hmmm. I would definitely try to advance just a bit. I run my truck around 8 degrees with the terminals jumped. Still doesn't ping at all.

You are correct that at WOT the ecu goes into open loop mode. is it only at WOT that you have the bogging problem?

Do you have compression numbers? If this engine has never been rebuilt and its at 250k I think it may just be old and tired...

Also, I was thinking about this and of all the 22re's I've owned (6 or 7 trucks now...) I rarely put the pedal all the way down. I find that point where if you move any further you don't get throttle response. I keep it there if I'm accelerating or whatever and the trucks all seem to like this the most. Now I've never had one that actually bogged down and slowed down when I mash the pedal - that could be some weird ecu problem?? Maybe if part throttle is what the truck likes you just need to drive it that way? not that that's an answer for you or anything...

andykrow

first thing to check when this happens is your tps. the ecu doesn't think your truck is idling and hence no kick down when you jumper it. my guess is your timing is retarded wicked far and the ecu is advancing it as far as it can. i've seen glowing red exhaust pipes b/c of this so i'd fix it quick.

sinful

inferno.

you should really just advance your timing just to see what happens.

Andykrow,

What procedure did you use to check your tps?

andykrow

Read through this. it really helps to have two people, at least if your ohmmeter just has probes like mine does.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Inferno451

Sinful- You've definitely got a TPS problem. The only check that's really important is the change from idle to acceleration. The rest are only to verify correct operation.
Andy- I'll try advancing my timing a bit and see what happens. Other than that, i guess it's just really, REALLY tired. Bummer. Good think i've got another engine to build up this summer . Just hope my engine makes it that far.

Slednecks594

....my whole exhaust glows to around the cat.

Inferno451

K guys, here's an update. I ran a compression test and got around 145/150 all the was across, maybe a little lower on #4 (around 135). I know that's on the low end of things, but would it really make it THIS slow? It seriously takes over a minute to get to 60mph on flat ground, top speed is still around 70. That won't cut it around here. I can't think of anything else i haven't checked besides fuel pressure (rented a gauge, but haven't checked yet). It runs great, idles smoother than most new cars i've driven, just doesnt have any power!

sinful

i finally got around fixing the tps/timing issue. the truck runs better than ever. i do hear some detonation though and it could be too much timing. i currently have the timing set at 8 but im going to back if off to 5.

so this may relate the issue you may be having, inferno 451. because before adjusting the tps, i had the timing set around 12 degrees and the truck ran ok. then i set it back to 8 and the truck had no power at all. i couldnt go pass 70 mph. and blindly i set the timing to around 12-15 degrees and the truck run ok and drove like this until TODAY.

Today I decided to research the TPS adjusment article. followed all the steps and guess what? after having the timing adjusted to 12-15 degrees and driving for almost amonth like this (blindly), after today with the corrected adjusted TPS it gave me a different timing reading... a whopping 0 degrees !!! so i went ahead and adjusted the timing to a 8 degrees and woho what a difference. fixed all my issues.

now imagine how it was with the miss adjusted TPS and the timing at 8 degrees? it was probably running in negative degrees.

fyi the tps adjusment must be done correctly or any small error will throw everything off.

hope that helps

Inferno451

Thanks for the idea sinful! I wish it were something easily corrected like that. I have a brand new TPS adjusted several times to specification as per the FSM and 4crawler writeup. Timing is set to the factory 5* BTDC with diagnostic terminal jumped according to FSM. Any other ideas?

Inferno451

Could my compression being on the low side of spec be causing that much power loss?

Moonfish

No. They really are not power houses and really do fall kind of flat after a certain rpm. Mine didn't have a tach so I don't know the #. But, have you replaced the powr cable from the battery to the fuse block? There is a small bit of wire crimped in there as a failsafe that is now old and maybe corroded.

Inferno451

Sorry, this is a long post. You must not have noticed the part where i got rid of the sputtering. Dissasembling and rebuilding the AFM seemed to do the trick. It runs like a dream, the only problem is that it has NO power. Wont break 70MPH, and it takes about 3/4 minutes to get there. I totally understand that it's a 2400cc engine trying to push around a 5000lb truck, but from what i've understood on this forum, 80 mph shouldn't be a huge deal for it.