taikowaza

I am so happy with the marlin hd clutch, that I trust marlin w/a lot. my brakes need doing and I checked out their site again. they have good support for 2nd gens I like that.
my question is whether I am choosing the right parts for the job- and whether I am missing anything.
for now I am going to stick with my stock calipers and rotors, this is just a refresh not a whole rebuild.
any advice or warnings most appreciated
PS. is there any way to refresh the rear drum brakes? what do I need for that.
FJ-80 Brake Master Cylinder
Hilux Braided brake lines
semi-metallic brake pads.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/brakes.htm

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'92 4runner,Thorley Ceramic Headers,Stan's Custom Exhaust,OME Suspension,Downey HD Coils,Marlin HD Clutch,PIAA520s,24/30"Magnaflow Muff/Cat,Warn Prem Hubs,BudBuilt IFS Skid+Xmbr,Sonoran Truss,Odyssey bat,33x10.5 BFG A/T,ISR Mod,Boyle's HO Alternator,Powerlock,Rustbuster,Dual 4.88 Truetracs,LCE bored TB,Weasy Cams,NWMP Xtnd Range Tank

norcalsvx

for the rears check the shoes/wheel cyl. and drums

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1994 toy 22re-
http://www.yotatech.com/f86/nocalsvx-s-94-toy-104593/

2006 Subaru Forester XT -some mods/awd 5spd
1994 Subaru SVX- hwy runner
84 RX7- drag car build

taikowaza

should I just get new stock OEM shoes to start with? I don't remember seeing any shoes at Marlin or LCE, could be wrong.

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'92 4runner,Thorley Ceramic Headers,Stan's Custom Exhaust,OME Suspension,Downey HD Coils,Marlin HD Clutch,PIAA520s,24/30"Magnaflow Muff/Cat,Warn Prem Hubs,BudBuilt IFS Skid+Xmbr,Sonoran Truss,Odyssey bat,33x10.5 BFG A/T,ISR Mod,Boyle's HO Alternator,Powerlock,Rustbuster,Dual 4.88 Truetracs,LCE bored TB,Weasy Cams,NWMP Xtnd Range Tank

norcalsvx

yea OEM is fine, i re did my brakes but just went with new rotors/pads (my calipers /master cyl were fine) from napa

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1994 toy 22re-
http://www.yotatech.com/f86/nocalsvx-s-94-toy-104593/

2006 Subaru Forester XT -some mods/awd 5spd
1994 Subaru SVX- hwy runner
84 RX7- drag car build

Elvota

Why the need for a new LC master cylinder?

Maybe upgrading to disc brakes for the rear??

http://www.yotatech.com/f116/rear-disc-swap-107749/

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1990 4Runner | V6 3.4 | 5spd | 240 someoddthousand miles | SR5 | SAS | RLS | 35's | ARB | TJM | 217 to 1 | W8000

- four wheels | three sticks | two hands | one trail -

PCE91V64x4

Check your drums for a "lip" which results when the drum wears (on the inside of course) from contact with the brake shoes. If you have a lip take your drums to be machined or buy new drums.

Unless the MC is broken it is probably not worth changing.

DudeBud

tim.... any reason why you want new brakes. your rears looked fine, since those shoes weren't all that old.. if anything i would do the front pads and maybe have the rotors turned.

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Dan
84 4runner sr5 Ford 302
T-18 4spd yota t-case
yota front and rear both open
37X13.00 boggers
88 4runner 22re 5spd

dirtoyboy

The OEM pads are as good as you can get for the rears without going to discs

__________________
Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler.

I'm the yota junk man......PM me for ALL your parts needs NEW or USED


Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall!

It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand

corax

Rear drums generally last forever, so unless the shoes are worn don't worry about them. If you really want, take some 400 grit sandpaper and lightly scuff the glaze off the shoes. If you ever go through water, it would be a good idea to take the rear apart and put a light coat of white lithium grease or antiseize on all the contact points (auto adjuster threads, where the auto adjuster contacts the shoes, e-brake arm pivot, shoe anchor, shoe contact pads on the backing plate, etc)

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'88 4runner SR5 - 3.0 7MGE eng swap - Marlin HD W56 - 4.56 V6 Thirds - '82 Toyota Celica Supra LSD up front - 32"x11.5" BFG AT KO's - NWMP Aux Gas Tank - home fab front and rear bumpers - Hannemann fenders

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond

taikowaza

Thanks guys! Thanks Dudebud the reason I'm concerned about the brakes is that on the way to seatac I had to stop quickly, and I had some (what I think is called) fade in the brakes, it wasn't responsive and I felt like I had to pump them to get the stop I needed, luckily I was not following to closely b/c that extra time would have been BAD. So I felt that a refresh would be in order...
Dudebud thanks for telling me about the rear shoe condition! That was when you repaired those backing plates for me! (wow thanks again for that you totally saved me from the fiasco when the guys lifted my truck by the backing plates).

I ordered the front pads from marlin yesterday and I'm sure they will ROCK just like his clutch does.
I didn't order the braided brake lines as I am not yet sure if I need them...
good call on replacing the front pads and having the rotors turned! this is what I'll start with. Master Cylinder still looks good, so thanks Elvota for the heads up on FJ80 m/c=disc conversion.

so far only spent $40 on the pads from marlin (both axles). just to have a nice even refresh I might get rear shoes also and combined with turning the rotors this will most prob. take care of the issues!

Wabbit's advice was spot on: his advice was: "You probably just need new pads (front) and shoes (rear) and the rear adjusted. Brakes are pretty simple realistically. Also it never hurts to flush the system as the brake fluid you have in there is probably as old as your truck.

thanks everybody I just saved a lot of money. final question, those marlin brake lines, worth it?
they're waiting on shipping the pads until I decide. if it's not a good investment I'll just cancel that part of the order and get the pads on their way.

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'92 4runner,Thorley Ceramic Headers,Stan's Custom Exhaust,OME Suspension,Downey HD Coils,Marlin HD Clutch,PIAA520s,24/30"Magnaflow Muff/Cat,Warn Prem Hubs,BudBuilt IFS Skid+Xmbr,Sonoran Truss,Odyssey bat,33x10.5 BFG A/T,ISR Mod,Boyle's HO Alternator,Powerlock,Rustbuster,Dual 4.88 Truetracs,LCE bored TB,Weasy Cams,NWMP Xtnd Range Tank

norcalsvx

dont bother on the SS lines spend your money elsewhere on the truck

__________________
1994 toy 22re-
http://www.yotatech.com/f86/nocalsvx-s-94-toy-104593/

2006 Subaru Forester XT -some mods/awd 5spd
1994 Subaru SVX- hwy runner
84 RX7- drag car build

dirtoyboy

aye, yea...u dont really need them unless you need to extend your lines from lifting the rig

__________________
Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler.

I'm the yota junk man......PM me for ALL your parts needs NEW or USED


Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall!

It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand

PCE91V64x4

If you want to improve pedal feel the first step is flushing the brake lines. If the fluid is old (or never changed) you will notice the improvement. Brake fluid maintenance is probably the most important maintenance item that most people never do.

2nd step is to adjust the rear drums.

ewong

If you park the truck at the trail head - critters (marmots etc) like to chew on the rubber lines becuase here onthe East Coast they are coated in road salt.... thus leving the rubber lines with holes.. (or so I have heard)...

SS lines tend to feel "firmer". - and look bling.

FredTJ

Ahhh balony..... If you're worreid about Marmots, just leave a few radishes around. Marmots hate radishes.



Also, the SS lines don't feel any firmer than rubber lines, assuming that the rubber lines are in ok condition. Modern day rubber lines don't expand a bit under the pressures that they see in any application that you're likely to run them in.

There are quite a few reports of the SS lines failing BTW. Search around some on the web.

We also use rubber, and if we need longer ones, because of lifting, we simply get longer rubber lines made up.




Fred