Manual Hubs
#1
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Manual Hubs
What is the difficulty and cost factor to swap manual hubs for the factory auto hubs? One thing I dislike about my 4runner are the auto hubs...I just don't trust them. Especially anything that runs via vacuum (I understand the auto hubs are vacuum actuated). Some of the early square body Broncos had vacuum wipers and anytime you would get on the gas or go uphill into the mountains, the wipers wouldn't run very well.
Any thoughts??
Any thoughts??
#2
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are you positive you have auto and not ADD hubs?
I mean, I wouldn't want either and I'd swap to manuals too, lol
there's plenty of threads on the subject, try the search feature above
Welcome to YT btw!
I mean, I wouldn't want either and I'd swap to manuals too, lol
there's plenty of threads on the subject, try the search feature above
Welcome to YT btw!
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 11-05-2008 at 07:06 AM.
#4
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Swapping out ADD flanges (the "hubs" are just flanges to keep the wheels locked in) for Aisin manual hubs is pretty easy.
Remove the add flange and replace with manual hub.... No added peices needed, they are a direct fit. I have done this on two trucks takes no more then 45 mins
Remove the add flange and replace with manual hub.... No added peices needed, they are a direct fit. I have done this on two trucks takes no more then 45 mins
#6
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Yes you have ADD, the Autos were phased out 10 years before your truck was made.
You could either buy a set from a wrecker (i recently bought 1 hub for $35) and rebuild them yourself for peice of mind, Or buy a refurbished set from the WAB.
Not very hard to swap them if you have basic mechanical knowledge...
You could either buy a set from a wrecker (i recently bought 1 hub for $35) and rebuild them yourself for peice of mind, Or buy a refurbished set from the WAB.
Not very hard to swap them if you have basic mechanical knowledge...
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I'm not too worried about installation now. I'm a pretty good shadetree mechnanic...In my old Bronco I've done the motor once, seals on the front end, replaced the rear third member twice, and rewired the whole truck. I think I've been through everything in that truck at least once. The only thing I don't have is metric tools!
Here's a couple more questions: If you use the Aisin hubs, do they have to be Toyota, or can you use the ones made for Isuzu or Suzuki? What do you do with all the vacuum crap? Do you just take it off and plug the vacuum line?
Thanks again for everybody's comments.
Here's a couple more questions: If you use the Aisin hubs, do they have to be Toyota, or can you use the ones made for Isuzu or Suzuki? What do you do with all the vacuum crap? Do you just take it off and plug the vacuum line?
Thanks again for everybody's comments.
Last edited by TOOLMAN; 11-05-2008 at 08:39 AM.
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#8
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if i can rebuild scuba's hubs in the middle of pismo beach, you can do it in your drive way with a 10, 12mm socket and C-clip pliers.
I'm not sure about the other models, i dont know what their spline count is. as for the vacuum lines, i just put in golf Tees to plug them in my 94.
I'm not sure about the other models, i dont know what their spline count is. as for the vacuum lines, i just put in golf Tees to plug them in my 94.
Last edited by Tofer; 11-05-2008 at 08:40 AM.
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No, the aisin's made for 'Zuks and Isuzu's are different, not only with spline counts, but with differences in the faces dials, and internal workings.
#11
What is the difficulty and cost factor to swap manual hubs for the factory auto hubs? One thing I dislike about my 4runner are the auto hubs...I just don't trust them. Especially anything that runs via vacuum (I understand the auto hubs are vacuum actuated). Some of the early square body Broncos had vacuum wipers and anytime you would get on the gas or go uphill into the mountains, the wipers wouldn't run very well.
Any thoughts??
Any thoughts??
1. Swap the whole front diff with one that doesn't have ADD or
2. Swap the jack shaft from a truck that doesn't have ADD onto your diff.
The front diff casting is the same between ADD and Non-ADD, the only difference is in the jack shaft.
If you swap to a non-add diff, you will also have to install manual hubs. Very easy bolt on process with only a few minor tools and some basic know-how needed.
#12
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This may be a stupid question but maybe someone can 'splain me how the whole vacuum actuated thing works. I'm used to locking the hubs, putting it into gear and going. I guess I like to live by the K.I.S.S. principle and am not used to things "automatic."
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This link answers all your Aisin hub differences between Toyota, Isuzu, 'zuks...and how to rebuild them. http://www.off-road.com/offroad/arti....jsp?id=399668
This link briefly(sp?) explains how the A.D.D. system works, and how to permently eliminate it. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
This link briefly(sp?) explains how the A.D.D. system works, and how to permently eliminate it. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
#17
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really easy dude..what you do is take the tire off.. and take the dust cap off.. the cone washers under the 12 mm nuts i used a torch just heat them for 10 seconds each then tap with hammer and they pop off.. after that you need to take off the nut on the axle and some c rings.. the add plate then should come right off then you just bolt the hubs on in place... pretty easy and straight forward there is lots of threads with picture is you search!
#20
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Yeah, swapping in the manual hubs is a nice easy job.
Make sure you got a brass hammer and drift handy. I didn't use heat, I simply tapped on the side of the hub body with the brass hammer and drift. Cone washers popped out. Make sure you leave a nut threaded on the end or you will lose the cone washer (over 2 bucks a pop new).
You just need to remove the 6 bolts holding the ADD flange on (and washers and cone washers) and the single 10mm (I think) gold bolt in the middle holding the flange to the CV.
I swear there is a writeup for manual hub instalation in the tech forum...
P.s 100 bucks? A little pricey imo...
Make sure you got a brass hammer and drift handy. I didn't use heat, I simply tapped on the side of the hub body with the brass hammer and drift. Cone washers popped out. Make sure you leave a nut threaded on the end or you will lose the cone washer (over 2 bucks a pop new).
You just need to remove the 6 bolts holding the ADD flange on (and washers and cone washers) and the single 10mm (I think) gold bolt in the middle holding the flange to the CV.
I swear there is a writeup for manual hub instalation in the tech forum...
P.s 100 bucks? A little pricey imo...