major coolant leak
12-27-2007, 09:37 PM
#21
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take a look at this link.. http://www.theengineman.com/sitebuil...s/DSC00262.JPG see the three plugs in the top(front) of the block.. right above the top one is an outlet for a coolent line.. although its at the front of the block it runs out the back.. mine would just drip all night and then gush in the day when id drive it.. just below the second plug from the top(front) is the hole for the knock sensor..
12-28-2007, 01:30 PM
#23
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are you talking about the tube that comes up in the front right corner and its threaded into the block? if so thats not leaking, but i have only taken the intake mani off so like the fuel rails and everything are still on have i not gone deep enough? i looked today with a mirror and light and had little luck seems to be coming out of the back underneath where the temp sensor it but its not leaking there almost appears to be leaking from closer to the front of the eng like in the middle
12-30-2007, 12:02 PM
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no its a metal tube.. its got two bolts and a gasket.. in that link i showed you you can see its hole and the two holes for the bolts.. it runs out the back towards the windshield.. im looking for my papers for when i repaired it.. ill post them if i find um
12-30-2007, 12:09 PM
#26
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did you check the freeze plugs on the block? a couple of mine are leaking, but at this point im not worrying about them too much, i have like 8 gallons of antifreeze, so yeah. im not losing much at all.
12-30-2007, 03:17 PM
#28
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http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4r...ct.htm#By-Pass
If it's the by-pass hose at the back, with the right hose and a couple tools (long needle nose) you can change it in about 15-20 minutes. Be careful of the vacuum port switch next to it. It will probably be dried out and break easily.
If it's the by-pass hose at the back, with the right hose and a couple tools (long needle nose) you can change it in about 15-20 minutes. Be careful of the vacuum port switch next to it. It will probably be dried out and break easily.
Last edited by James Dean; 12-30-2007 at 03:32 PM.
12-30-2007, 04:02 PM
#30
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I feel your pain. I'm burning coolant pretty quick, but I have pressure in all six. I love trying to find mystery leaks...
Think there might be a crack some where on the motor?
Think there might be a crack some where on the motor?
12-31-2007, 09:19 AM
#31
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well leak number two is found! bad news is its a small crack in the metal line that connects to the heater hose, its completely unreachable!!! its shoved between the firewall, engine block and exhaust crossover. i would hate to pull the engine to fix a coolant leak! any suggestions? 
12-31-2007, 09:30 AM
#33
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The place you speak of, you know shoved way back under everything?
Yes it is a pita to get to. But you do not need to pull your entire motor. But you do have to pull your intake plenum and intake manifold to get to it so that you can replace the entire unit. It is the crossover pipe from engine water jacket to the heater lines and thermal switches. It runs underneath your intake manifold to a hookup at the top of the water jacket for the motor.
It really is not to terrible to get to, just be sure that you have marked all connections and hoses and have gotten very familiar with the routing before removing the plenum. Even if you haven't it is not to hard to reverse engineer it.
Good Luck.
PS once you are there please take care to replace all your coolant hoses connecting to that thing. Or else murphys law dictates that one of them will fail as soon as you get it back together.
Yes it is a pita to get to. But you do not need to pull your entire motor. But you do have to pull your intake plenum and intake manifold to get to it so that you can replace the entire unit. It is the crossover pipe from engine water jacket to the heater lines and thermal switches. It runs underneath your intake manifold to a hookup at the top of the water jacket for the motor.
It really is not to terrible to get to, just be sure that you have marked all connections and hoses and have gotten very familiar with the routing before removing the plenum. Even if you haven't it is not to hard to reverse engineer it.
Good Luck.
PS once you are there please take care to replace all your coolant hoses connecting to that thing. Or else murphys law dictates that one of them will fail as soon as you get it back together.
12-31-2007, 09:35 AM
#34
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well leak number two is found! bad news is its a small crack in the metal line that connects to the heater hose, its completely unreachable!!! its shoved between the firewall, engine block and exhaust crossover. i would hate to pull the engine to fix a coolant leak! any suggestions?
Never mind, I see you got some better advice from Mattches.
Last edited by mt_goat; 12-31-2007 at 09:40 AM.
12-31-2007, 09:55 AM
#35
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yea i figured it be easier to steal ur photo than to take my eng out to take my own.... here is yet another stolen photo that shows the correct location of the leak (the green dot) 
but sounds like you guys already knew that so i guess its time to start taking stuff apart...
but sounds like you guys already knew that so i guess its time to start taking stuff apart...
12-31-2007, 09:57 AM
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i have the air intake chamber off so now pull the manifold and ill be good? ordered the $200 worth of parts from the stealership and wont be here till thurs so looks like this is getting put on hold, how bad is it to leave the eng w/o coolant its suppose to hit the mid 20's this week at night...
Last edited by 95SASMudRunner; 12-31-2007 at 10:20 AM.
12-31-2007, 10:28 AM
#37
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i have the air intake chamber off so now pull the manifold and ill be good? ordered the $200 worth of parts from the stealership and wont be here till thurs so looks like this is getting put on hold, how bad is it to leave the eng w/o coolant its suppose to hit the mid 20's this week at night...
12-31-2007, 12:12 PM
#39
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thats the tube ive been talking about all along!!! score one for me!!
just pull all of the intake.. if you want have the tube welded or replaced.. new gaskets.. and your all set..
just pull all of the intake.. if you want have the tube welded or replaced.. new gaskets.. and your all set..
12-31-2007, 12:32 PM
#40
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Hmmm, that is a little scary. I'd a least open the block drains and pull the t-stat to get as much water out as possible. I'd also be concerned about the heater core if it has water in it because its hard to drain the heater core. You can flush it with some antifreeze mix.
